[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

I did this again yesterday. I started off in M3 at 3000 RPMs, mashed the pedal, got to 6000 RPMs and the car shifted into 4th on it's own. At 7000 RPMs I backed off then the car shifted back into 3rd. I did this 3 times hoping I could shift to 4th but the car did it.

Here are the logs: https://datazap.me/u/gregrobin/gregs...&data=3-22

Once you get xhp you won't have the problem of the car auto shifting even in manual. You will truly stay in the gear you want without the car overriding.
Looks like once you are at full boost your low pressure fuel pump is struggling to keep up. Dips into the 40s a few times.

[Gregrobin]

Thanks, does this mean the low pressure fuel pump needs to be replaced?

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Thanks, does this mean the low pressure fuel pump needs to be replaced?

Probably yes. You may want to upgrade to a stage 2 fuel pump.

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Probably yes. You may want to upgrade to a stage 2 fuel pump.

Thanks, the LPFP looks like a challenging install from watching videos. Before I start spending money on parts/labor, is this the first place you would start? Is there a way to validate it's not working correctly first?

I'd hate to invest labor/parts in a new one only to find out the problem still exists.

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Thanks, the LPFP looks like a challenging install from watching videos. Before I start spending money on parts/labor, is this the first place you would start? Is there a way to validate it's not working correctly first?

I'd hate to invest labor/parts in a new one only to find out the problem still exists.

It's pretty much a sure thing that your LPFP is getting tired. It just can't handle the flow required for the additional HP you're making. You don't necessarily have to change it yet, though. It's not bringing your HPFP down, but it's getting close to the threshold where it could cause problems.

It's not really difficult to replace. The trickiest part is getting the lock ring off the tank if you don't have the tool. I guess one of the in-tank lines is a bit of a pain to disconnect, but nothing major. As long as you make sure you're at less than 1/4 tank, things should go smoothly.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Thanks, the LPFP looks like a challenging install from watching videos. Before I start spending money on parts/labor, is this the first place you would start? Is there a way to validate it's not working correctly first?

I'd hate to invest labor/parts in a new one only to find out the problem still exists.

The log is the best way to tell. You might be ok for a bit but it can put more stress on the hpfp (trying to pick up the slack).
It will slowly get worse. Eventually it may cause misfires or thrown into limp mode with a cel.

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

The log is the best way to tell. You might be ok for a bit but it can put more stress on the hpfp (trying to pick up the slack).
It will slowly get worse. Eventually it may cause misfires or thrown into limp mode with a cel.

Thanks everyone. Will it be ok under normal driving conditions for a while? I don't race the car. I may "get into it" every so often for a few seconds for fun, but that's it. Mashing the pedal is something I don't normally do, did it for the logs only.

Also, recommendations (make/model) for a Stage 2 LPHP?

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Thanks everyone. Will it be ok under normal driving conditions for a while? I don't race the car. I may "get into it" every so often for a few seconds for fun, but that's it. Mashing the pedal is something I don't normally do, did it for the logs only.

Also, recommendations (make/model) for a Stage 2 LPHP?

I think you're totally fine for normal driving, though you really need to make mashing the pedal a regular thing

I, as well as many others, went the DIY route with a Walbro 450 and the factory bucket. It's proven, cheap and relatively easy.

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by stewbets

I think you're totally fine for normal driving, though you really need to make mashing the pedal a regular thing

Oh don't get me wrong I do mash it from time to time but only for a few seconds. The medical bills from the whiplash are adding up plus my girlfriend is no longer impressed. She did let out a loud scream yesterday while she was driving it though. The car that is...

[fgpalmer71]

I also think your fine and also don't believe the replacement to be a big deal at all. I haven't done mine just yet in the 335i but I've done many fuel pump replacements in the past. You're fuel pump is going to go eventually, and that was probably going to happen wether you tuned it or not. They fail on bone stock cars from what I've seen. I was thinking about going with a bucketless LPFP when it's my turn. That and the motiv fuel analyzer are probably my last mods.....running some E85 will be my figurative cherry on the top of my E93 sundae!

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

I also think your fine and also don't believe the replacement to be a big deal at all. I haven't done mine just yet in the 335i but I've done many fuel pump replacements in the past. You're fuel pump is going to go eventually, and that was probably going to happen wether you tuned it or not. They fail on bone stock cars from what I've seen. I was thinking about going with a bucketless LPFP when it's my turn. That and the motiv fuel analyzer are probably my last mods.....running some E85 will be my figurative cherry on the top of my E93 sundae!

Last mod? Uh huh...;-)

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Last mod? Uh huh...;-)

Lol....yeah, you're right!

[Gregrobin]

I pulled the trigger and purchased the VRSF downpipes, clamps and gasket. I'm going to let a highly recommended BMW performance shop do the install and check out my low pressure fuel pump as well. I'm too impatient to wait for my girlfriend's father to get his lift installed.

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

I pulled the trigger and purchased the VRSF downpipes, clamps and gasket. I'm going to let a highly recommended BMW performance shop do the install and check out my low pressure fuel pump as well. I'm too impatient to wait for my girlfriend's father to get his lift installed.

Your gonna love stage 2+.

Mine wet the bed yesterday and is on jack stands until my new crankshaft position sensor gets here. Triple digits on the highway and it felt like my transmission grenaded!!! Scary AF. Thinking of replacing every single sensor right now.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Hi forum, this is my first post. I recently purchased my 2nd BMW 335i. My first BMW was a 2001 330ci, my last one was a 2011 335i coupe with all of the packages, including M Sport. I loved the couple but I wanted a convertible. I now own a 2008 335i convertible automatic, one owner, excellent condition, 92k miles.

This is a 2nd car, not my primary, driven on weekends for fun only. I am mechanical but these European engines are new to me. I grew up in the 70s and 80s working on small and big block chevy engines. We turned wrenches back then, no computers :-)

I want to add some HP and want smoother/quicker acceleration. I am not going to race the car. I just want to keep that big grin on my face every time I step on the gas pedal :-)

I've read a lot of forum posts on different ways to tune. From my readings I did some research on the Cobb Accessport. I contacted a local tuning shop to talk about this.

They recommended the following instead:

- Custom dyno tune calibration using MHD software - 93 octane
- cp-e cold-air intakes

They'd like to tune the engine to perform better on 93 octane fuel.

Their quote is $1029. The Cobb Accessport is $650 and looks straight forward to install.

When I asked the shop about Cobb versus MHD and them doing the tune versus me doing the tune they said:

"- Cobb and MHD both offer off the shelf (OTS) map packs
- OTS maps are very generic maps that are not optimized for your specific vehicle, how it responds to those tuning changes, and are not guaranteed for functionality

The comparison I made last for you was between a purchasing a Cobb device, flashing the OTS map yourself, and us getting an MHD custom dyno tune done using the bare minimum. Getting you all the pros of custom tuning (knowing its safe, knowing a pro is looking at the car and optimizing it for our barometric pressure zone, getting a dyno video, getting power results on paper, etc.). I did this to showcase for the same cost of you purchasing a Cobb device and going through the hassle of learning how to flash it yourself, as well as a bunch of features you’d likely never need, you could have the car custom dyno tuned using MHD. Having been the Cobb direction on my own car, listening to how you plan on using the car, and the financial investment range you’re interested in… MHD custom tune would be your best back for buck in a lot of ways.

Can you just purchase a super license and flash on an MHD map? Yes, but again you’d be purchasing a bunch of features and solutions you’d never use. You’d also have to buy an MHD Wifi adapter, and KDCan cable which would be overkill for your use.

My recommendation? Go MHD basic license for custom tuning (~$100 depending on currency exchange at the time) and let Vlad handle the custom dyno tune procedure for you. It costs the same as an OTS map, is better than an OTS map, you don’t waste features, and it takes the hassle out of your hands. And should you want more power, bolt-ons and a retune fee is all you need for a return visit. License fee taken care of, and you still don’t have to buy a cable, or software device."

I followed up asking them how much the retune charge is if I want to bring the car back in. They said $300 depending on the tune.

Should I go MHD custom, or go with Cobb and do it myself? Or another solution?


Thanks,


Greg

I would first research a laundry list of "must do's" BEFORE you tune.

After you complete the list, I'd do the following:

1) Buy a 5" stepped FMIC from ARM Motorsports

2) Buy AFE or BMS cone filters

2) Buy MHD and install stage 1+.

If the car isn't fast enough, then get 1.75" inlets & 3" SS Catless downpipes- then install MHD stage 2+

Use map 7.1 or 9.0..

[Gregrobin]

For xHP Flash, do I need to purchase the xHP Flash License and xHP Map Package separately?

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

For xHP Flash, do I need to purchase the xHP Flash License and xHP Map Package separately?

Yes you do unfortunately!

I think my total was around $280 all in after having to purchase both the license and the map pack.

As a side note for you.....once I flashed and waited the requisite 50 miles everything was good except my sport mode. At certain points it would hang onto 2nd gear longer then I felt like it should. I figured it was still "learning" in sport mode. Now I believe that the issue was the beginning signs of my crankshaft position sensor leaving this earth. So if your car seems to shift a bit odd AFTER your 50 mile break in period occasionally keep that sensor in the back of your mind. When it decided to stop working intermittently and totally wet the bed I thought my tranny had blown up! In all my pre-purchase research I hadn't run across this sensor being a big issue....now it seems like I missed that totally somehow as it seems to be a relatively regular occurrence.

[Gregrobin]

Can I do the flash with my MHD Wireless OBDII Wifi Flash Adapter?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-burger-m...SABEgIslvD_BwE

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

Yes you do unfortunately!

I think my total was around $280 all in after having to purchase both the license and the map pack.

As a side note for you.....once I flashed and waited the requisite 50 miles everything was good except my sport mode. At certain points it would hang onto 2nd gear longer then I felt like it should. I figured it was still "learning" in sport mode. Now I believe that the issue was the beginning signs of my crankshaft position sensor leaving this earth. So if your car seems to shift a bit odd AFTER your 50 mile break in period occasionally keep that sensor in the back of your mind. When it decided to stop working intermittently and totally wet the bed I thought my tranny had blown up! In all my pre-purchase research I hadn't run across this sensor being a big issue....now it seems like I missed that totally somehow as it seems to be a relatively regular occurrence.

This is just how sport mode is with xhp. I find it holds most gears too long if you are normal driving. Sport mode is really only best when hammering on it and you don't want to shift.
That being said, you can adjust all shift points in the custom settings if you wish to alter it. I doubt it's your sensor.

I just use D until my car is warm then I switch to M. I never been a fan of the s mode. Been on xhp for 3 years.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Can I do the flash with my MHD Wireless OBDII Wifi Flash Adapter?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-burger-m...SABEgIslvD_BwE

Yes that's what I use. It's much faster than my older Bimmer geeks cable.
A battery charger is also a must for the first flash. Read the flashing instructions carefully and follow.
Once your xhp is broken in, it's honestly the best. Go for stage 3

[Gregrobin]

Purchased, downloaded app, plugged in MHD Wireless OBDII Wifi Flash Adapter - Orange, received a Cannot connect error - ugh!

I assume the AT is 7 speed on my 08 E93? Would that matter? I selected 6 tried, error, then 7, tried, error.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Purchased, downloaded app, plugged in MHD Wireless OBDII Wifi Flash Adapter - Orange, received a Cannot connect error - ugh!

I assume the AT is 7 speed on my 08 E93? Would that matter? I selected 6 tried, error, then 7, tried, error.

6 speed
Battery charger on? App fully updated ? Seat belt connected. First aux position for the starter. All accessories off.