[mzafar]

Hi,

I have a 2008 335i AT (zf) with 100k miles. I had the transmission fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Recently had the radiator and the turbos replaced. For a while now I've been having an issue with my transmission.
While the transmission is cold, it works fine. When the car warms up, transmission works fine except shifting up from 4th to 5th gear.

If i have my foot on the gas (even slightly) and i shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips instantly (car revs up) and goes into Transmission Failure (limp mode).
If i don't have my foot on the gas and shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips slightly but shifts up.

Otherwise, my butt dyno tells me the transmission is slipping slightly (maybe 10%) more than it should.

Took it to a mechanic and he says the transmission is beyond repair based on his experience. He says its better to get a used transmission than trying to
I was hoping someone here could help me out with the following

1. Should i take it to another mechanic and see if he might be able to fix it?
2. Should i get a used tranny with 50k miles and swap?
3. Sell it as is?

Additionally, is a 2011 GA6HP19Z transmission compatible with the 2008? realoem states the newer one is "nonexchangeable retrospectively"?

Thank you in advance for any input. It's my only car and I feel trapped.

[mojobmw_e90]

Have you tried flashing any softwares like Alpina or xHP? Both will improve transmission speed and help the trans not slip as much (firmer shifts)

[feuer]

Probably need new mechatronic sqaure adapter seal. Read here https://sayyarti.wordpress.com/2015/...ission-issues/

[Koolsilver]

How many miles on the trans and how much power are you putting out and for how long.

[JuniorB]

You've got issues if your gears are popping out, or slipping. The slipping is doing tremendous damage to the clutches. On a side note, I have a really nice 08 6at xi trans with 60k on it if interested.

[feuer]

XDrive AT onto RWD? I don't think so. At 100k I would look at the square seal. Power out put isn't only factor to consider. How is driven. Tires treadwear index. Maintenance.... Since service was recent is possible that is low on oil too.

[Asreegan]

Originally Posted by mzafar

Hi,

I have a 2008 335i AT (zf) with 100k miles. I had the transmission fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Recently had the radiator and the turbos replaced. For a while now I've been having an issue with my transmission.
While the transmission is cold, it works fine. When the car warms up, transmission works fine except shifting up from 4th to 5th gear.

If i have my foot on the gas (even slightly) and i shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips instantly (car revs up) and goes into Transmission Failure (limp mode).
If i don't have my foot on the gas and shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips slightly but shifts up.

Otherwise, my butt dyno tells me the transmission is slipping slightly (maybe 10%) more than it should.

Took it to a mechanic and he says the transmission is beyond repair based on his experience. He says its better to get a used transmission than trying to
I was hoping someone here could help me out with the following

1. Should i take it to another mechanic and see if he might be able to fix it?
2. Should i get a used tranny with 50k miles and swap?
3. Sell it as is?

Additionally, is a 2011 GA6HP19Z transmission compatible with the 2008? realoem states the newer one is "nonexchangeable retrospectively"?

Thank you in advance for any input. It's my only car and I feel trapped.

Originally Posted by mzafar

Hi,

I have a 2008 335i AT (zf) with 100k miles. I had the transmission fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Recently had the radiator and the turbos replaced. For a while now I've been having an issue with my transmission.
While the transmission is cold, it works fine. When the car warms up, transmission works fine except shifting up from 4th to 5th gear.

If i have my foot on the gas (even slightly) and i shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips instantly (car revs up) and goes into Transmission Failure (limp mode).
If i don't have my foot on the gas and shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips slightly but shifts up.

Otherwise, my butt dyno tells me the transmission is slipping slightly (maybe 10%) more than it should.

Took it to a mechanic and he says the transmission is beyond repair based on his experience. He says its better to get a used transmission than trying to
I was hoping someone here could help me out with the following

1. Should i take it to another mechanic and see if he might be able to fix it?
2. Should i get a used tranny with 50k miles and swap?
3. Sell it as is?

Additionally, is a 2011 GA6HP19Z transmission compatible with the 2008? realoem states the newer one is "nonexchangeable retrospectively"?

Thank you in advance for any input. It's my only car and I feel trapped.

Bro you issue fixed? If yes want was the problem? Facing the same issue with mine

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Asreegan

Bro you issue fixed? If yes want was the problem? Facing the same issue with mine

Do you have XHP transmission flash installed?

If so try and activate Line pressure bump, increased pressure to prevent clutch slip.

Servicing the transmission properly, seals, sleeves and Solenoids with Pan/Filter and fluid are a good idea as well.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by mzafar

Hi,

I have a 2008 335i AT (zf) with 100k miles. I had the transmission fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Recently had the radiator and the turbos replaced. For a while now I've been having an issue with my transmission.
While the transmission is cold, it works fine. When the car warms up, transmission works fine except shifting up from 4th to 5th gear.

If i have my foot on the gas (even slightly) and i shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips instantly (car revs up) and goes into Transmission Failure (limp mode).
If i don't have my foot on the gas and shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips slightly but shifts up.

Otherwise, my butt dyno tells me the transmission is slipping slightly (maybe 10%) more than it should.

Took it to a mechanic and he says the transmission is beyond repair based on his experience. He says its better to get a used transmission than trying to
I was hoping someone here could help me out with the following

1. Should i take it to another mechanic and see if he might be able to fix it?
2. Should i get a used tranny with 50k miles and swap?
3. Sell it as is?

Additionally, is a 2011 GA6HP19Z transmission compatible with the 2008? realoem states the newer one is "nonexchangeable retrospectively"?

Thank you in advance for any input. It's my only car and I feel trapped.

Normally, I'd say at 100,000 miles you shouldn't have to change out the the mechatronic solenoids, sleeves & square bumper. However, slipping from 4 to 5 is a tell tale sign that's what you need to do.

I'd also flush all of the old transmission fluid from the torque converter through the hot line of the transmission cooler.

[Asreegan]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Do you have XHP transmission flash installed?

If so try and activate Line pressure bump, increased pressure to prevent clutch slip.

Servicing the transmission properly, seals, sleeves and Solenoids with Pan/Filter and fluid are a good idea as well.

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Do you have XHP transmission flash installed?

If so try and activate Line pressure bump, increased pressure to prevent clutch slip.

Servicing the transmission properly, seals, sleeves and Solenoids with Pan/Filter and fluid are a good idea as well.

Just download the xHP, will Re flash tomorrow..fingers crossed..thanx anyways

[Asreegan]

Originally Posted by Asreegan

Just download the xHP, will Re flash tomorrow..fingers crossed..thanx anyways

Originally Posted by Asreegan

Just download the xHP, will Re flash tomorrow..fingers crossed..thanx anyways

The attached are the values..should I still go ahead with xHP?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Asreegan

The attached are the values..should I still go ahead with xHP?

They are adaptation values, would recommend you flash stage 3 map with the latest version

Then drive like a granny for 50 miles for adaptations to set.

After 50 miles do a couple of runs to see if it still slips.

[iqraceworks]

New fluid, new filter pan, new seals, and NEW shift solenoids. The solenoids control the pressure to the clutch packs....when they start to fail, that's when the clutch packs start to slip.

I had slipping issues in 5th gear....even with a mild 93 tune. New solenoids fixed the slipping...even with a FBO E50 tune.

Worth a try before dumping the cash on a new transmission.


Oh...and DONT RESET THE ADAPTION VALUES.!! Unless you are doing a full rebuild, it's not healthy for your transmission (per ZF techs and XHP). Just drive it easy for a few hundred miles and the transmission will adjust the adaptations on its own.

Or...you could disregard what the people who designed the transmission say, and listen to the internet and experts....

[Steve Sas]

Hi Asreegan,
I have same issue with my transmission But could only get it to slip when oil temp very hot and a short sift 4th to 5th under heavy load.
Its most likely E clutch bushing wear.When transmission heats up, more fluid leaks past this bushing and doesn't engage fast enough.
Anyway you will first need to get ISTA-D running on a laptop and read your solenoid adaptation values. Your E clutch fill pressures should be above 300mbar(if it adapted)
You need to reset adaptations and you should see this number climb up over a week of driving. I am thinking it maybe something to do with the new fluid you used but this is just a guess.
Anyway i don't think these adaptation values keep adjusting over time as my numbers went from 50mbars to 518mbars over a week of driving and the transmission is shifting much better. This number stopped changing there after.
This will not fix the underlying issue but will help with the slipping issue if you havent already burnt the clutches.
I asked a ZF transmission build and he was saying this is the main issue he sees with 4th to 5th slipping. Could be clutches/solenoids as well.

Note there are 2 types of adaptations for transmission, one is driving style relating to shift points as with towing heavy loads. The other is with these solenoid fill time and pressures.

[In54ne.e90]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Normally, I'd say at 100,000 miles you shouldn't have to change out the the mechatronic solenoids, sleeves & square bumper. However, slipping from 4 to 5 is a tell tale sign that's what you need to do.

I'd also flush all of the old transmission fluid from the torque converter through the hot line of the transmission cooler.

I'm having the same exact issues can you please help ? What did you do to fix your slipping issues ?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by In54ne.e90

I'm having the same exact issues can you please help ? What did you do to fix your slipping issues ?

Get the transmission solenoids & sleeves at FCP Euro.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aut...fD_BwE#fitment

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/33...8;d=788&v=

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...9z-24152333907

Get 2 of the smallest sleeves - the very first link below.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/4-5...ve-24107536339

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/5-9...ve-24107536340

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/6-2...ve-24107536341

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/9-0...ve-24347588759

You will need 14 quarts of Synthetic Transmission Fluid - Redline or Amsoil would be my choice.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...yABEgLqlvD_BwE

https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-a...lume=us-volume

To flush the old transmission oil out of the torque converter, all you do is put the new trans filter on the car, & do an Initial fill of maybe 4 quarts, run the tranny through the gears a few times & then fill the pan again, until the trans fluid starts coming out of the pan. Cap it off.

Next -

You will need an old 1 gallon milk jug in which you have carefully measured out 3 quarts and put a line with a permeant marker at the 3qt mark, in advance.

You then disconnect the hot line to the Trans cooler with the special, red key and put it into the old milk jug.

Have a helper start the car & you watch the old transmission fluid pour into the old milk jug, until the 3 quart mark; you then tell the helper to shut off the car.

Put 3 quarts back in the pan.

Repeat this process 2 more times. On the 3rd cycle, the fluid coming out the hotline should be bright red.

99% of the transmission fluid in your system is now brand new! 😉

After you have done the 3rd cycle, run the trans through the gears again and let it warm up to 86 to 100F, then do a final fill. Let the fluid run out of the pan until it stops dripping. Put the fill bolt back in & tighten it down. Note: it doesn't need to be super, super tight. Just tighten it down good; there's no reason to go crazy on this bolt.

[In54ne.e90]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Get the transmission solenoids & sleeves at FCP Euro.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aut...fD_BwE#fitment

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/33...8;d=788&v=

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...9z-24152333907

Get 2 of the smallest sleeves - the very first link below.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/4-5...ve-24107536339

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/5-9...ve-24107536340

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/6-2...ve-24107536341

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/9-0...ve-24347588759

You will need 14 quarts of Synthetic Transmission Fluid - Redline or Amsoil would be my choice.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...yABEgLqlvD_BwE

https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-a...lume=us-volume

To flush the old transmission oil out of the torque converter, all you do is put the new trans filter on the car, & do an Initial fill of maybe 4 quarts, run the tranny through the gears a few times & then fill the pan again, until the trans fluid starts coming out of the pan. Cap it off.

Next -

You will need an old 1 gallon milk jug in which you have carefully measured out 3 quarts and put a line with a permeant marker at the 3qt mark, in advance.

You then disconnect the hot line to the Trans cooler with the special, red key and put it into the old milk jug.

Have a helper start the car & you watch the old transmission fluid pour into the old milk jug, until the 3 quart mark; you then tell the helper to shut off the car.

Put 3 quarts back in the pan.

Repeat this process 2 more times. On the 3rd cycle, the fluid coming out the hotline should be bright red.

99% of the transmission fluid in your system is now brand new! 😉

After you have done the 3rd cycle, run the trans through the gears again and let it warm up to 86 to 100F, then do a final fill. Let the fluid run out of the pan until it stops dripping. Put the fill bolt back in & tighten it down. Note: it doesn't need to be super, super tight. Just tighten it down good; there's no reason to go crazy on this bolt.

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Get the transmission solenoids & sleeves at FCP Euro.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aut...fD_BwE#fitment

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/33...8;d=788&v=

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...9z-24152333907

Get 2 of the smallest sleeves - the very first link below.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/4-5...ve-24107536339

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/5-9...ve-24107536340

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/6-2...ve-24107536341

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/9-0...ve-24347588759

You will need 14 quarts of Synthetic Transmission Fluid - Redline or Amsoil would be my choice.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...yABEgLqlvD_BwE

https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-a...lume=us-volume

To flush the old transmission oil out of the torque converter, all you do is put the new trans filter on the car, & do an Initial fill of maybe 4 quarts, run the tranny through the gears a few times & then fill the pan again, until the trans fluid starts coming out of the pan. Cap it off.

Next -

You will need an old 1 gallon milk jug in which you have carefully measured out 3 quarts and put a line with a permeant marker at the 3qt mark, in advance.

You then disconnect the hot line to the Trans cooler with the special, red key and put it into the old milk jug.

Have a helper start the car & you watch the old transmission fluid pour into the old milk jug, until the 3 quart mark; you then tell the helper to shut off the car.

Put 3 quarts back in the pan.

Repeat this process 2 more times. On the 3rd cycle, the fluid coming out the hotline should be bright red.

99% of the transmission fluid in your system is now brand new! 😉

After you have done the 3rd cycle, run the trans through the gears again and let it warm up to 86 to 100F, then do a final fill. Let the fluid run out of the pan until it stops dripping. Put the fill bolt back in & tighten it down. Note: it doesn't need to be super, super tight. Just tighten it down good; there's no reason to go crazy on this bolt.

Thanks brotha helps out a lot . Ima tell my mechanic to do this and see if that fixes my problem hopefully . Ima buy the kit today . Did you have the same issues or came across it before and had it fixed ?

[Godzilx]

I had this exact issue after I did a fluid service.

What I did to fix this issue was
1. Replace ZF solenoids!! And all the sleeves
2. Replace fluid again, slipping clutch is going to burn up the new fluid you just put in
3. Do a transmission adaptation reset and follow this drive procedure:
https://s3.amazonaws.com/fcp-creativ...Software+T.png

I would also recommend installing xHP, but I would correct the issue first. xHP allows you to see transmission values to gauge clutch condition along with a trans code reader.

[iqraceworks]

If it was me I would skip the transmission adaptation reset....but to each their own. There have been more than enough pros out there saying to never do it unless you are doing a full rebuild.....

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by In54ne.e90

Thanks brotha helps out a lot . Ima tell my mechanic to do this and see if that fixes my problem hopefully . Ima buy the kit today . Did you have the same issues or came across it before and had it fixed ?

I did not have this issue. I had about 175,000 miles on the tranny and didn't want to have this issue. So, I did this last summer, after watching Vehicular DIY do this video maybe 2 summers ago.

I also was on XHP stage 2. I was reading a lot about people who went to stage 3 and developed this issue because they did not do this procedure BEFORE going to stage 3.

I have also read on this forum a lot of people who had the slipping issue from 4 to 5, and when they did this procedure, problem solved.

The ZF transmissions on the e90's are very Stout. I'm confident that this is all you have to do.

Take your car to a shop that specializes is European automotive repairs. I don't think your mechanic knows what he's talking about to be honest. The clutches on the ZF transmissions are, for the most part, bullet proof. It's pretty rare that you read about someone having to do a transplant of the tranny, on their 335, prior to 200,000 miles to be honest. Keep in mind, most people who have a 335 have it tuned too! 😉

[pagnifeli]

What was the final solution to this problem?? Service and adaptation?

[N54problems]

Originally Posted by mzafar

Hi,

I have a 2008 335i AT (zf) with 100k miles. I had the transmission fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Recently had the radiator and the turbos replaced. For a while now I've been having an issue with my transmission.
While the transmission is cold, it works fine. When the car warms up, transmission works fine except shifting up from 4th to 5th gear.

If i have my foot on the gas (even slightly) and i shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips instantly (car revs up) and goes into Transmission Failure (limp mode).
If i don't have my foot on the gas and shift up 4th to 5th, the transmission slips slightly but shifts up.

Otherwise, my butt dyno tells me the transmission is slipping slightly (maybe 10%) more than it should.

Took it to a mechanic and he says the transmission is beyond repair based on his experience. He says its better to get a used transmission than trying to
I was hoping someone here could help me out with the following

1. Should i take it to another mechanic and see if he might be able to fix it?
2. Should i get a used tranny with 50k miles and swap?
3. Sell it as is?

Additionally, is a 2011 GA6HP19Z transmission compatible with the 2008? realoem states the newer one is "nonexchangeable retrospectively"?

Thank you in advance for any input. It's my only car and I feel trapped.

Hi this in a long shot because how long ago this post was but did you ever figure out an outcome/solution to this problem. I’m having this exact issue accept from 3rd to 4th any answers would be appreciated