[Renner335i]

So I'm having a issue and im stumped. Car is a e90 07 335i. Mods are jb4 with custom tune, doc race 6466, mmp port injection with jb4 controller bmp stage 3 pumps with second on a hob switch at 15 pounds and supporting mods

The issue im having is this. 2 weeks ago the car was running great. Sat for 2 days and when i went to start up the car it was extremely rough and the radiator fan came on. So I pulled codes and got a high current code in the ekp and 2aae. Cleared codes and Fan didn't turn off till i cleared the epk high current. Now fan is off but reading my low pressure I am running around 79 to 82 psi when cold.
Hpfp is stuck at 2 then jumps to 11-12 which use to be steady 5 for me. So went for a drive. High side dropped to 5 now cruising. Low pressure is at 78 psi cruising. On map 1 (15psi) the low pressure goes above 80 and the high pressure drops to bellow 5 and the car just breaks up.

Anyone ever seen a issue like this before? Car just cant go full throttle now.

[lookalikehuuh]

So I had the same codes from my EKP, turned out I have EKPM2 which is known to have issues with keeping up with the current needed by the Walbro 450 i installed in the car.

Eventually I figured out the real issue for me was that the EKPM was overheating so I bought some double sided thermal tape, small aluminum heatsinks, and a 40mm noctua fan from Amazon. Cut a hole on the top of the EKPM module and installed the heatsinks on top of the larger chips inside the EKPM.

Once the mods were done I also added thermal pad to the bottom of the EKPM board to the metal bottom, and added computer thermal paste to the actual bottom of the EKPM module to the metal stand off where it bolts on.

Its now been weeks since the installation and I have not seen a re-occurence of the code since the

Something similar to this, but I added addtional heatsinks to the 2 big black chips as well just for extra cooling.

View post on imgur.com

[_N54]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

So I had the same codes from my EKP, turned out I have EKPM2 which is known to have issues with keeping up with the current needed by the Walbro 450 i installed in the car.

Eventually I figured out the real issue for me was that the EKPM was overheating so I bought some double sided thermal tape, small aluminum heatsinks, and a 40mm noctua fan from Amazon. Cut a hole on the top of the EKPM module and installed the heatsinks on top of the larger chips inside the EKPM.

Once the mods were done I also added thermal pad to the bottom of the EKPM board to the metal bottom, and added computer thermal paste to the actual bottom of the EKPM module to the metal stand off where it bolts on.

Its now been weeks since the installation and I have not seen a re-occurence of the code since the

Something similar to this, but I added addtional heatsinks to the 2 big black chips as well just for extra cooling.

View post on imgur.com

Picture isn't working. Is this common with the Walbro 450 or does this happen with the Walbro 535 also?

[lookalikehuuh]

Yes it can happen with any fuel pump that pull more current than the factory pump.

According to the Walbro flow charts the 535 uses like 3 amps more than the 450 for similar PSI, so I would assume the EKPM would be even more affected with the Walbro 535.

I added pictures from that post I originally tried to post. Anyway all the chips I circled in red are the ones that I added heatsinks to.

[lookalikehuuh]

Oh I also forgot to mention, the guy from "Vehicular DIY" also has a video on how to upgrade you EKPM to an EKPM3 and then custom code it so that it won't give you the error... however its a bit expensive for a new EKPM3 and the coding is not for the faint of heart.

I found this other workaround and so far it has worked flawlessly.

If you have any more question let me know

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Oh I also forgot to mention, the guy from "Vehicular DIY" also has a video on how to upgrade you EKPM to an EKPM3 and then custom code it so that it won't give you the error... however its a bit expensive for a new EKPM3 and the coding is not for the faint of heart.

I found this other workaround and so far it has worked flawlessly.

If you have any more question let me know

I was gonna say, I thought the newer EKPM3 modules could handle the Walbro 450.. no? The older EKP modules have issues, and with a 535 pump even with the newer EKPM3 modules have been known to overheat from what I've read

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

I was gonna say, I thought the newer EKPM3 modules could handle the Walbro 450.. no? The older EKP modules have issues, and with a 535 pump even with the newer EKPM3 modules have been known to overheat from what I've read

The EKPM3 also gives errors about excessive current from the Walbro pumps, companies like Fuel It try to say your EKPM is "weak" but the reality is that you are legitimately pulling much more current than it was ever designed for so of course its going to overheat.

For the record I did source an EKPM3 in the hopes that it would not have the same issue with current pull... it still did however have codes (different codes) than EKPM2 but still around the same thing. So instead of drilling a huge hole on the top of my brand new EKPM3 I did it to my old EKPM2 module and it was worked flawlessly.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Oh I also forgot to mention, the guy from "Vehicular DIY" also has a video on how to upgrade you EKPM to an EKPM3 and then custom code it so that it won't give you the error... however its a bit expensive for a new EKPM3 and the coding is not for the faint of heart.

I found this other workaround and so far it has worked flawlessly.

If you have any more question let me know

Renner335i issue is at start up and EKPM isn’t overheating then and won’t trigger fan and rough idle. Something else is up. Additionally, as you pointed out, coding is available to eliminate fault codes due to excess current. I’m highly doubtful that “your” fix that you are suggesting here would do anything to fix this issue.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Renner335i

Car just cant go full throttle now.

Do you get cylinder cut off fault when you go wot? Let me know if you are able to get oil level reading.

[Renner335i]

Yes i do get the injector cutoff code

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Renner335i

Yes i do get the injector cutoff code

Last year, after an engine swap I was experiencing the same just without the fan coming on. Replaced everything fuel related. Process of elimination. Both sensors. Both pumps. All injectors. EKPM too. I have a lot of spare n54 parts. Problem didn’t go away. I had to drive like that so I did. If you wot it would back fire and go into limp mode with cylinder cut off code. Put 5-7k. Then I noticed I can’t read the oil level. That’s usually due to failing coolant pump. Replaced that and fueling issue went away too. Now I have ST, another car, that is doing the same, fan coming on too. Fuel gauge was fluctuating at 1/4 or bellow when you wot so I replaced the fuel regulator. Still getting cylinder cut off. Since I have parts I will start swapping. I know isn’t smart but I have been in the n54 game for a decade now and I don’t think there is a known cure for this particular problem. Judging from last year experience I thinking it might be debris in fuel or something electrical like a short that is affecting fuel supply. I will communicate with you as I go forward.

[Renner335i]

Im just trying to figure why my low pressure went from a normal 65 for me to 78 and sometimes higher at idle. Thats when i started really noticing issues

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Renner335i

Im just trying to figure why my low pressure went from a normal 65 for me to 78 and sometimes higher at idle. Thats when i started really noticing issues

That could be from lower ambient temperatures and lower ethanol content in winter fuel mix. I don’t think higher low fuel pressure than usual would cause this issue.

[NoGuru]

I would look at the Fuel pressure regulator or like feuer said, could be debris in the system someplace.

[Renner335i]

Understood. Car has 95000 on it so a new regulator cant hurt. I'll do the sensors as well.

[Renner335i]

So car sat for 2 days. Maybe this is some helping info. Got in car and started logging low pressure psi, current and voltage. Started car and battery was low as it did struggle to start a little. I have the cold start delete on but car started to stumble, fan kicked on and no check engine light Low pressure was around 92 at first, voltage showed 9.8 and bouncing around and current was 19.1a and bouncing. Then i got the high current code and 2aae. Weird thing is rail pressure was reading 78.1. Cleared codes. I actually had to a few times to get the car to,keep the codes away then I am at 86 psi and bouncing, 13.1a current. High pressure is between 650 and 750 now but now codes. Just so erratic but the high current would make sense pulling 19.1a when i have the issue

[Renner335i]

So i replaced the regulator. Now pressure is back to 64-65 at idle. So i did a little brake boost to see what would happen once boost kicked in. Low pressure rose to 68 and high pressure dropped hard to 300 psi and then 29dc injector cutoff. Sounds like high pressure pump is going out. What do you guys think?

[Renner335i]

Replaced the hpfp with one from a buddies car as its the last thing to try. Turned on and no stalling, no codes and full pressure rises on the high side when i rev. I noticed when I spun the used pump it was kinda spring loaded where mine spun freely. Is that a sign of a failed pump?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Renner335i

Replaced the hpfp with one from a buddies car as its the last thing to try. Turned on and no stalling, no codes and full pressure rises on the high side when i rev. I noticed when I spun the used pump it was kinda spring loaded where mine spun freely. Is that a sign of a failed pump?

Do you get 29dc injector cutoff with the other HPFP ?

[Renner335i]

Yes. It got to the point that the car would stall and 29dc. I replaced the pump and car is rock solid

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Renner335i

Yes. It got to the point that the car would stall and 29dc. I replaced the pump and car is rock solid

I’m glad. That’s what I was doing today. I removed new HPFP and installed old from another car for testing.