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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > New rotor, shocks, struts installation checklist



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      02-22-2017, 01:22 AM   #1
bcoffin23
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New rotor, shocks, struts installation checklist

I am installing the following this weekend:

Koni struts and shocks
Eibach springs
Stoptech rotors

My brake pads are fine so I am leaving those as is.

My question: Are there any components that I absolutely should be changing when I make these swaps? I.e changing gaskets when you install exhaust etc.
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      02-22-2017, 06:54 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcoffin23 View Post
I am installing the following this weekend:

Koni struts and shocks
Eibach springs
Stoptech rotors

My brake pads are fine so I am leaving those as is.

My question: Are there any components that I absolutely should be changing when I make these swaps? I.e changing gaskets when you install exhaust etc.
Change pads to Cool Carbon ST. You won't regret it.

Whenever you go with lowering springs, you want to change out the stock bump stops for shortened bump stops to maintain OEM suspension travel so the shock doesn't bottom out so easily like it does with stock bump stops. E36 M3 front bump stops and z4 M rear bump stops are a solid choice for that. You won't regret it. Or you can just cut the stock bump stops 1 inch from the top harder side for the "ghetto" way.

Change your coil spring perches, upper and lower strut mounts, strut gaskets to brand new to revise your whole shocks and struts components. You won't regret it.

I've said "You won't regret it" way too many times.
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      02-22-2017, 01:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SE7EN335 View Post
Change pads to Cool Carbon ST. You won't regret it.

Whenever you go with lowering springs, you want to change out the stock bump stops for shortened bump stops to maintain OEM suspension travel so the shock doesn't bottom out so easily like it does with stock bump stops. E36 M3 front bump stops and z4 M rear bump stops are a solid choice for that. You won't regret it. Or you can just cut the stock bump stops 1 inch from the top harder side for the "ghetto" way.

Change your coil spring perches, upper and lower strut mounts, strut gaskets to brand new to revise your whole shocks and struts components. You won't regret it.

I've said "You won't regret it" way too many times.
Perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
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      02-22-2017, 09:25 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by bcoffin23 View Post
Perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Which Konis are you installing? The Yellows I assume?
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      02-23-2017, 01:39 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by SE7EN335 View Post
Which Konis are you installing? The Yellows I assume?
Orange
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      02-23-2017, 09:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SE7EN335 View Post
Change pads to Cool Carbon ST. You won't regret it.

Whenever you go with lowering springs, you want to change out the stock bump stops for shortened bump stops to maintain OEM suspension travel so the shock doesn't bottom out so easily like it does with stock bump stops. E36 M3 front bump stops and z4 M rear bump stops are a solid choice for that. You won't regret it. Or you can just cut the stock bump stops 1 inch from the top harder side for the "ghetto" way.

Change your coil spring perches, upper and lower strut mounts, strut gaskets to brand new to revise your whole shocks and struts components. You won't regret it.

I've said "You won't regret it" way too many times.
I disagree on:
-cool carbon st
-shorter bump stops to prevent strut/shock bottoming out
-need to replace spring perches
I agree on:
-strut mounts
-shock mounts
-rear spring pads
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      02-23-2017, 10:27 PM   #7
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1299281
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      02-24-2017, 12:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
I disagree on:
-cool carbon st
-shorter bump stops to prevent strut/shock bottoming out
-need to replace spring perches
I agree on:
-strut mounts
-shock mounts
-rear spring pads
There's a reason why KW v1s and v2s go with shorter bump stops seeing as their shocks are based on the Koni Yellows. Same with the Bilstein B8s, B14s and B18s all having a shortened internal bump stop. Shorter travel than OEM just makes you hit the bump stops more often which would give a harsh ride. My case in point, I installed brand new Koni Yellows on Eibach Pro-kit with rebound dampening set at half way between full firm and full soft. I followed the Eibach instructions to only cut the rear bump stop 1 inch from the top harder side so I did so. First test drive I found that the front suspension feels way harsher than the rear over big bumps and imperfections and thought I just got a blown front shock so I took them out and saw that it was in great condition so I did some research, purchased e36 M3 fronts and z4 M rears and put them in and the ride quality at the front was now matched with the rear and just completely fantastic over bumps all round. A lot of other forum members have experienced the exact same as I did with the harsher ride at the front suspension when leaving in the stock bump stop.

When I replaced my suspension at 60k miles, the spring perches had a few tears on both sides. Looked best to replace them as it may affect the integrity of the suspension as a whole in the future.

I have Cool Carbon ST pads on DBA 4000 slotted rotors and they are 100x better than OEM/Textar brake pads and 200x better than Akebono Ceramics.
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      02-24-2017, 11:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SE7EN335 View Post
There's a reason why KW v1s and v2s go with shorter bump stops seeing as their shocks are based on the Koni Yellows. Same with the Bilstein B8s, B14s and B18s all having a shortened internal bump stop. Shorter travel than OEM just makes you hit the bump stops more often which would give a harsh ride. My case in point, I installed brand new Koni Yellows on Eibach Pro-kit with rebound dampening set at half way between full firm and full soft. I followed the Eibach instructions to only cut the rear bump stop 1 inch from the top harder side so I did so. First test drive I found that the front suspension feels way harsher than the rear over big bumps and imperfections and thought I just got a blown front shock so I took them out and saw that it was in great condition so I did some research, purchased e36 M3 fronts and z4 M rears and put them in and the ride quality at the front was now matched with the rear and just completely fantastic over bumps all round. A lot of other forum members have experienced the exact same as I did with the harsher ride at the front suspension when leaving in the stock bump stop.

When I replaced my suspension at 60k miles, the spring perches had a few tears on both sides. Looked best to replace them as it may affect the integrity of the suspension as a whole in the future.

I have Cool Carbon ST pads on DBA 4000 slotted rotors and they are 100x better than OEM/Textar brake pads and 200x better than Akebono Ceramics.
Hitting the bump stop more often vs hitting the valve on the shaft more often. Bottoming out the strut/shock vs "bottoming out" the bump stops. These are two very different events. Which will result in harsher ride? Bump stop is progressive, smooths the ride and softens the blow when the shaft valve hits the bottom. The bumps need to be properly matched with the shaft length and the suspension travel. When vehicle is lowered that doesn't necessarily mean that will exhibit less suspension travel to be needing shorter bump stops. I see you brought up your personal experience. I respect that. Most people on here are simply parroting what ever someone else had wrote and follow it like horse with blinders. Since experiences matter read AtlasM experience with longer bump stops. and also read my own. I've two cars with Koni Yellows. One with Eibach-Pro that in fact came with bump stop add-ons (surprise surprise) One with BMWPS Yellow. Lets concentrate on the bump stops only: about 1.5 years after I install the Koni Yellow with BMWPS Yellow I decided to install camber plates on the front and stiffer shock mounts in the rear. At this time the 335i had the factory Sport bump stops and it was riding horrible especially over road abrupt transitions. So I decided to just try it, to steer away form the shorter bump stop hype on the forum, and installed NON Sport bump stops. Car rides fantastic. Smoother and quieter. This is daily driver. I literally drive it every day. I also track it. No adverse effect on the track either. For reference, I track since 2010 every few weeks during track season.

About Cool Carbon, you like to use 100x to explain how much better they are. OK, read this:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1133968
now read this:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...828362&page=11
an lastly this:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1190020
Do you want to know how ECS and Cool Carbon solved the issue? They send me OEM pads and took the Cool Carbon back.
So 100x better? I certainly don't think so.
You have change how many set on this BWM? One? Two?
I go through at least two per year! Cool Carbon is not better than OEM.
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      02-24-2017, 11:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Hitting the bump stop more often vs hitting the valve on the shaft more often. Bottoming out the strut/shock vs "bottoming out" the bump stops. These are two very different events. Which will result in harsher ride? Bump stop is progressive, smooths the ride and softens the blow when the shaft valve hits the bottom. The bumps need to be properly matched with the shaft length and the suspension travel. When vehicle is lowered that doesn't necessarily mean that will exhibit less suspension travel to be needing shorter bump stops. I see you brought up your personal experience. I respect that. Most people on here are simply parroting what ever someone else had wrote and follow it like horse with blinders. Since experiences matter read AtlasM experience with longer bump stops. and also read my own. I've two cars with Koni Yellows. One with Eibach-Pro that in fact came with bump stop add-ons (surprise surprise) One with BMWPS Yellow. Lets concentrate on the bump stops only: about 1.5 years after I install the Koni Yellow with BMWPS Yellow I decided to install camber plates on the front and stiffer shock mounts in the rear. At this time the 335i had the factory Sport bump stops and it was riding horrible especially over road abrupt transitions. So I decided to just try it, to steer away form the shorter bump stop hype on the forum, and installed NON Sport bump stops. Car rides fantastic. Smoother and quieter. This is daily driver. I literally drive it every day. I also track it. No adverse effect on the track either. For reference, I track since 2010 every few weeks during track season.

About Cool Carbon, you like to use 100x to explain how much better they are. OK, read this:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1133968
now read this:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...828362&page=11
an lastly this:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1190020
Do you want to know how ECS and Cool Carbon solved the issue? They send me OEM pads and took the Cool Carbon back.
So 100x better? I certainly don't think so.
You have change how many set on this BWM? One? Two?
I go through at least two per year! Cool Carbon is not better than OEM.
You do realise that if a suspension has significantly more travel, it won't hit the valving of the shaft that has a shortened bump stop as hard as a suspension with limited travel on a taller bump stop. Since a suspension has more travel, it would maintain its dampening force over a bump or imperfection more greatly than a suspension with limited travel since the limited travel suspension would just hit the bump stops more often and harder, skyrocketing spring rates through the roof leading to a brutal ride. The more travel permitted by the shortened bump stops would give the suspension more room before it hits the shortened bump stops since it does have greater travel and so its dampening force is maintained through the compression movement.

Since you linked Atlas's post on his 335xi on Koni FSDs which are completely irrelevant to the OP's Koni Oranges which are shortened shocks like the Koni Yellows without adjustability, let me link you some thing that is more relevant yet also on a 335xi to retaliate to your link.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787808

As you can see, the 335xi has far less travel than the 335i and so its extremely counterproductive to put stock bump stops on lowering springs since you are basically restricting the already limited travel of the 335xi. You are just going to hit the bump stops harder and sooner basically at every slight bump or imperfection on the road. I have spoken to many forum members and sponsored vendors of this site (Jeff Top gear solutions and Mike from Extreme Powerhouse to name a few) who all advocate for shortened bump stops when lowering your car by anywhere at 1 inch or beyond. Heck, I have even spoken to a few suspension shops who specialise in European car suspensions here in Australia and who all advocates for shortened bump stops as well. I wasted far too much money thinking I had blown front shock and replaced the front whole control arms, tie rod assemblies, sway bar end links when in fact it was the darn brand new bump stops I ordered from FCPeuro which made my suspension have very limited travel before the bottom of the shaft hits the bump stop (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31336771352oe). It's not like you are going to be running your suspension with no bump stops which you would literally be bottoming out your shock. More travel basically means your suspension has more room in response to any bumps or imperfections to compress and maintain its dampening force before hitting the bump stop. And also it not like if you see a huge pothole on the road, you would tackle it at high speed. Any normal person would slow down so the suspension doesn't take a big hit.

Regarding your experience with Cool Carbon, I am very sorry to hear that. No one should have to go through that and I have had my fair share of arguments with ECS regarding a faulty injector that ECS remedied with saying they would give me a 20% discount on my next injector purchase. Never would purchase from them ever again. For my Cool Carbon STs, I have had them since October 2015 so a bit over a year and I almost daily drive mine. Went from OEMs to Akebonos back to Textar/OEM then went to Cool Carbon STs, and the braking performance on it is far better than OEM. Doesn't have that grabby feeling of the OEMs and gives very linear stopping power. The akebonos were just plain terrible, the first inch or so of brake pedal input gives NO braking performance whatsoever and after that, braking performance is decent but not as good as OEM or Cool Carbon. Looks like the ST brake pads scraping seems to be a very uncommon incident. Mine are still running strong to this day. May also be due to installation error, manufacturing isolated error. Who knows...
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