[Pr335bob]

Seems my oil pan gasket is leaking it's a very slow leak. But I want to prepare for it. How much did it cost for you to get it done at a shop ? What else to get done while I'm down there ?

[Bimmer Barney]

Going rate is $650 - $1000. It's a very labor intensive job (I should know, I just did it myself this weekend). If your motor mounts need replacing, do that now.

[Pr335bob]

Holy fuck! Lol sucks, thanks for the motor mounts suggestion. Good to know. I Was thinking about tackling it but I need a hole weekend and I never get 2 days off... Also school starts this week. This is going to be expensive.

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Pr335bob

Holy fuck! Lol sucks, thanks for the motor mounts suggestion. Good to know. I Was thinking about tackling it but I need a hole weekend and I never get 2 days off... Also school starts this week. This is going to be expensive.

What kind of tools do you have access to? It shouldn't be more than a 4-6hr job if it is you first time. If you have an engine hoist it is extremely easy. If you only have an engine support bar it would make lining things back up a little tougher. If you have an engine hoist standard tools and moderate ability you should be able to do it in a day no problem.

I think a shop should only charge 2.5-3hrs as it shouldn't take longer than that. I swapped a whole K frame and steering rack in that time.

[Pr335bob]

You guys have. A lot more car experience than me. I don't have any of those things. I have a mechanic friend that might be able to help me out with that stuff. I couldn't find a diy on this with pics. I do simple things injectors, valve cover, intake valve cleaning, ofh gasket etc. Things like that. As long as I see pics it makes me a little more brave to try it. But this seems like it's out of my league .

['___']

Originally Posted by Pr335bob

You guys have. A lot more car experience than me. I don't have any of those things. I have a mechanic friend that might be able to help me out with that stuff. I couldn't find a diy on this with pics. I do simple things injectors, valve cover, intake valve cleaning, ofh gasket etc. Things like that. As long as I see pics it makes me a little more brave to try it. But this seems like it's out of my league .

If you can do valve cover and intake cleaning, you can do an oil pan gasket. The oil pan gasket just requires different tools and a little more safety prep since you are lowering the subframe.

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Pr335bob

You guys have. A lot more car experience than me. I don't have any of those things. I have a mechanic friend that might be able to help me out with that stuff. I couldn't find a diy on this with pics. I do simple things injectors, valve cover, intake valve cleaning, ofh gasket etc. Things like that. As long as I see pics it makes me a little more brave to try it. But this seems like it's out of my league .

Originally Posted by '___'

If you can do valve cover and intake cleaning, you can do an oil pan gasket. The oil pan gasket just requires different tools and a little more safety prep since you are lowering the subframe.

+1 If you have done that then you should be able to do the oil pan. I've heard some guys pulled it off without removing the subframe. You would not be able to change the engine mounts with this method though. I think the engine hoist/support bar method is much easier myself. Same as if I still had a lift I would drop the motor every time I needed to do turbo work.

[Bimmer Barney]

To others who are posting and OP - I am a very experienced diy mechanic. This is not a hard job, and actually lining up the subframe during reinstall was maybe the easiest part. However, because of the tightness of the engine bay and components, it is very time consuming. I am speaking from experience from calling around for quotes ranging from my buddy who gives me killer deals doing side jobs at his shop, to the best indy in town (I feared asking the dealership!). I am also speaking from experience from actually doing the job.

I don't mean to scare the OP, but I don't want him to be mislead. Amongst the forums, there are very few people who have tackled this job. It is very involved; not hard, but takes awhile first time around. I of course could do it faster again, but I promise you I would gladly pay the $650 to my buddy to do this for me.

Lots of speculation on this repair from people who haven't done it on the N54.

*end rant*

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

To others who are posting and OP - I am a very experienced diy mechanic. This is not a hard job, and actually lining up the subframe during reinstall was maybe the easiest part. However, because of the tightness of the engine bay and components, it is very time consuming. I am speaking from experience from calling around for quotes ranging from my buddy who gives me killer deals doing side jobs at his shop, to the best indy in town (I feared asking the dealership!). I am also speaking from experience from actually doing the job.

I don't mean to scare the OP, but I don't want him to be mislead. Amongst the forums, there are very few people who have tackled this job. It is very involved; not hard, but takes awhile first time around. I of course could do it faster again, but I promise you I would gladly pay the $650 to my buddy to do this for me.

Lots of speculation on this repair from people who haven't done it on the N54.

*end rant*

I will admit I haven't dropped the pan. But I was right there and inspected the gasket and looked it over because my XI will be needing one soon if the other gaskets are an indicator. So once you get the subframe out of the way why are the ~30 oil pan bolts and level sensor any harder to remove then normal. The hardest part IMO would be finding torque specs.

[Bimmer Barney]

Remove PS Pulley, Remove Trans Fluid Cooler, move trans fluid lines to the side, remove oil pan bolts with an arrangement of extensions, pry off pan and finagle it out. Clean everything, reinstall a bunch of stuff and THEN start reinstalling the subframe. None if it is hard or overly technical, but that's a couple hours of work right there for the average Joe that is taking their time.

Oh yeah, torque spec is 8nm at 90deg and 8nm at 180 for the longer bolts. You have a torque angle wrench that can go down to 8nm, right?

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Remove PS Pulley, Remove Trans Fluid Cooler, move trans fluid lines to the side, remove oil pan bolts with an arrangement of extensions, pry off pan and finagle it out. Clean everything, reinstall a bunch of stuff and THEN start reinstalling the subframe. None if it is hard or overly technical, but that's a couple hours of work right there for the average Joe that is taking their time.

Oh yeah, torque spec is 8nm at 90deg and 8nm at 180 for the longer bolts. You have a torque angle wrench that can go down to 8nm, right?

Yeah I would just remove the 3 bolts on the pump as it's easier and only AT cars have the cooler not sure if the OP is AT or MT. As for the torque a 3/8 torque angle gauge and any 1/4" torque wrench set to ~71 in/lbs.

[Pr335bob]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

To others who are posting and OP - I am a very experienced diy mechanic. This is not a hard job, and actually lining up the subframe during reinstall was maybe the easiest part. However, because of the tightness of the engine bay and components, it is very time consuming. I am speaking from experience from calling around for quotes ranging from my buddy who gives me killer deals doing side jobs at his shop, to the best indy in town (I feared asking the dealership!). I am also speaking from experience from actually doing the job.

I don't mean to scare the OP, but I don't want him to be mislead. Amongst the forums, there are very few people who have tackled this job. It is very involved; not hard, but takes awhile first time around. I of course could do it faster again, but I promise you I would gladly pay the $650 to my buddy to do this for me.

Lots of speculation on this repair from people who haven't done it on the N54.

*end rant*

Thanks guys for your input. Really enjoy hearing from everyone's perspective and experience helping make a decision

[bigtigga01]

I've done this before and all I can say is good luck torquing those bolts. I was quoted $900 for the job and that's why I did it myself. I would gladly pay someone $600 for a shop to do it.

[gotturbo]

Originally Posted by bigtigga01

I've done this before and all I can say is good luck torquing those bolts. I was quoted $900 for the job and that's why I did it myself. I would gladly pay someone $600 for a shop to do it.

Amen...! There are so many bolts and if you are trying to go in a cross cross pattern working them down evenly you will be forever changing your ratchet setup as far as universals, and extension combinations.. now a throw a torque wrench into the mix... Not me. I know my tights because I’m a machinist and I do this type of thing everyday. That being said these aluminum bolts really do feel like you can turn them forever! Lol! it’s nothing like the straight out at one level bolts on the trans pan. You know, where you can easily throw a torque wrench into the mix... All this while laying down on your back in a pool of sweat for 11 hours. Well not really, but that’s what it took me from start to finish to do it in the heat here in Florida. Yes I stopped for breakfast and smokes and hydration. The subframe will pretty much be laying right over the top of you the whole time. There are plenty of little pain in the ass parts that take forever in this job, trust me. That nobody even talks about. Like just getting to the damn tensioner with a plastic tube in the way of it held on by two torx head bolts that you can hardly get to. Once you get them out you realize you still can’t reeeaally get to the damn tensioner anyway and then when you finally get it to move and your buddy says that’s I’ll i got and you go all out trying to get that belt back on the power steering pump pulley! Finally getting it but never wanting to have to again!! Just one example. Lol. Then you gotta put those two torx screws back in!! Anyway, it was fun for me cause I don’t like anybody touching my car if I don’t have to but it’s not for an amateur. Just too many ways to get in trouble if you dont have much experience. It would suck to have to do it again if it leaked or something.

[srey]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

To others who are posting and OP - I am a very experienced diy mechanic. This is not a hard job, and actually lining up the subframe during reinstall was maybe the easiest part. However, because of the tightness of the engine bay and components, it is very time consuming. I am speaking from experience from calling around for quotes ranging from my buddy who gives me killer deals doing side jobs at his shop, to the best indy in town (I feared asking the dealership!). I am also speaking from experience from actually doing the job.

I don't mean to scare the OP, but I don't want him to be mislead. Amongst the forums, there are very few people who have tackled this job. It is very involved; not hard, but takes awhile first time around. I of course could do it faster again, but I promise you I would gladly pay the $650 to my buddy to do this for me.

Lots of speculation on this repair from people who haven't done it on the N54.

*end rant*

This might be true, but I did do the OPG in my garage on jackstands with an engine support bar this last spring, and I would not spend $650 to have someone do it for me. It takes about 6-8 hrs the first time if you go slow, take your time, and think things through like I did. It's just nuts and bolts. Using extensions to get all the bolts is annoying, but not hard. You cam do it.

[musa]

It's not hard, just time consuming. I would set aside a whole day to do this job. Make sure you're well prepared.

[wrrush]

if it is an "i" its 6-7 hours easier than an "xi" just make sure you buy new bolts, left handed drill bits, or your fav bolt extractor.

Do your engine mounts and downpipes, and check on your wastegate while you are in there.

To add more room, take out your vacuum canisters while you are there unless you change altitude a lot

[james008]

OP find a shop to do it for around the $650. A lot of posting of guys who did it themselves, said it was "easy" and then say they would gladly pay $600 for someone else to do it?

If you have a shop do it and it leaks a week later guess who has to pull the subframe and do it again. Not you.

If YOU do it and a week later it leaks... you get to.

I just had a shop do my rear main seal and the oil pan, they put it all back together I took it home for the weekend and found oil on my garage floor. Took it back and the poor guys shoulders sunk to the floor. They re-did it at no charge I'm back on the road and not a single drop of oil to be found.

If you had a lift and engine support bar maybe, jack stands laying on your back? I vote no way.

[Riceball777]

I did it when I replaced my oem turbos with pure stage 2 turbos. Im a hardcore car guy that does everything him self. And to be realistic. This job is not for the normal car people. It’s quite time consuming and very labor intensive. There is a reason this is a $1000 labor job. If you are not down swapping you own turbos and doing clutch jobs yourself. This oil Pan gasket is probably out of your skill level. I know I sure wouldent do this for only $650.

[PA66400]

I've done it and it is not as quick or easy as advertised here. Not hard, but on your back with hand tools and no car hoist or shop location - it is really long and tedious. Used an engine support bar and dropped my subframe. Did it in bits over 2 full weekends. And, I have decades of diy car wrenching. If it is your first time dropping the subframe, don't believe what you are reading here - it will NOT be quick or easy. I would never do this as a mechanic for less than $1000.

[leeroyjenkins1]

Interesting.. I'm actually considering fixing my oil pan leak as well, but the price obviously hurts. Assuming that the oil leakage amount isn't that bad, would you still recommend a fix? I've heard mixed reviews, some even saying it isn't even worth fixing/necessary at all. Do you guys agree?

Also, I read somewhere that you might as well swap out the turbos while your getting your oil pan gasket leak fixed. Roughly, how much labor hours/$$ would you save if you went ahead and swaped out the turbos while your at it? Considering if I should just replace them (even though current old ones work) if the money saved is meaningful.

[srey]

Originally Posted by PA66400

I've done it and it is not as quick or easy as advertised here. Not hard, but on your back with hand tools and no car hoist or shop location - it is really long and tedious. Used an engine support bar and dropped my subframe. Did it in bits over 2 full weekends. And, I have decades of diy car wrenching. If it is your first time dropping the subframe, don't believe what you are reading here - it will NOT be quick or easy. I would never do this as a mechanic for less than $1000.

How is dropping the subframe not easy? I get that you'd be going slow and would be cautious your first time, but it's just 6 bolts. Maybe your time is just more valuable than mine, but I would never pay $600 for a shop to do it, much less $1000. I don't have decades of wrenching experience, and I found the job tedious, but not totally overwhelming. It could be that everyone posting about DIY'ing this job is in a uniques situation. I wasn't rushed or stressed because I had a third car bay in my garage where the car could sit on jackstands for a while while I drove around another car. I could see myself being more willing to shell out to a shop if I didn't have a nice garage (albeit without a lift) and a backup car to drive around in the meantime.