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Dashboard rattle
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10-02-2013, 09:19 AM | #23 |
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I had rattle from underneath the column of the steering wheel (the plastic which is upon driver's knees) only on speed bumps. to be fair it wasn't loud and you could only hear it with radio switched off (even a very low volume of music of talking could mask it) .
I tried many times to fix it but after some weeks rattle came back. last time I applied a non friction tape between the three screws that holds this piece on the dashboard (both sides, dash and this piece) and finally it seems that annoying rattle disappeared for ever. again, I mention that I had it only at speed bumps.
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10-07-2013, 09:23 AM | #24 |
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I had the very same symptoms with rattle in dash-passenger side happening only when going over bumps as something was loose. I've tried everything inside of the car, I've searched through this forum and tried all the problematic places and none of them fixed the problem. This forced me to search outside of the cabin and I found it and fixed it. It was the damn hood hinge stop/adjuster, little screw with metal head was banging against the hood. You can test it by grabing and shaking the hood nearby hinge when hood is locked/closed. If you hear hood banging/creaking it's that little metal head for sure. I have adjusted them (lowered them) and put little rubber heads over them on both sides. I've used bleeder dust covers from some brake callipers I had laying around the garage. No more sounds from the dash, car feels 100% solid now.
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10-07-2013, 09:35 AM | #25 |
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Interesting. Could you post another picture showing exactly what you mean? the hinges alone don't help much...
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03-28-2014, 10:09 PM | #27 |
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09-17-2015, 11:52 AM | #28 |
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rattle around A-columns
My e90 m3 has this rattle from area around a-columns join the dash. Mostly from the driver side, less often from the passenger side. Only happen if i go over 70mph. I tried to put my hand to hold down the a-columns trims, the dash, air vent etc, nothing seems to stop the ratting when it happens.
I inspected the front wing quarter panels, I noticed the quarter panels are not bolted complete tight against the bolts in the engine bay, nor the bolts behind the doors. I suspect this is where the rattle coming from. Is this "looseness" normal? Are those wing quarter panels supposed to be bolted completed tight, or they're left a little loose on purpose? (e.g. too allow some movement when the expend / contract with temperature changes or whatever?) |
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09-19-2015, 08:40 AM | #29 |
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Drives: E90 M3 LCI Jerez Black
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Add me to the rattle club
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11-13-2015, 01:51 PM | #30 |
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So glad I found this post. I started to hear rattle noises last week coming from under the center of the dashboard closer to the windshield. There is no sound when the car is in idle. It almost sounds like the dasboard is contracting/creaking, and also sounds like raindrop hitting the car. At times, it sounds like its coming from the speaker, but the noise is still there when radio/cd player is off so can't be the speaker. Took it to the dealership and SA said it could be strut bar center nut that coudl be loose, but they won't know until they strip things away including the dashboard, which will take 8 to 10 hours @ $150 an hour labor cost. I didn't want to pay that much for a non mechanical issue. The noise is very annoying. Not sure if there is much I can do on my own.... sucks.
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11-14-2015, 07:25 AM | #31 |
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Drives: E92 325i MSport Coupe
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Tightening the strut bar bolt is a 2-minute DIY fix. It sits behind a plastic cover next to the wiper arm (see pic in this guide):
http://billswebspace.com/335M3StrutB...stallation.htm
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E92 pre-LCI 325i - Ohlins R&T; H&R spacers; M3 strut brace; Swift thrust sheets; 3 x chassis braces; diff brace; N53 V-brace; 034 subframe inserts; BMS clutch stop; BMS CDV; RE g/box mounts; Delrin shift bushes; Saikoumichi OCC; Cyba scoops; BMW Perf Exhaust; HEL s/steel brake hoses; M3 rear spoiler; Recaro Sportster CSs; M3 white dash LEDs; LED Angels; LED side repeaters; BMW Perf black grille; CSL reps; SSDD carbon diffuser; Monster Wrap black roof/clear front
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11-20-2015, 08:13 AM | #32 | |
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Quote:
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11-20-2015, 08:16 AM | #33 |
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BTW, I have the new 328i for loaner, and this is like the 3rd time I've driven it. It drives like complete sh*t compared to my E90. What did they do to the car. The whole sport/comfort/eco option is the stupidest idea form BMW. The driving experience is just not there anymore. Handling and steering feel is horrific.
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11-20-2015, 08:56 AM | #34 |
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I've got an annoying one the comes from just beneath my centre vents, if I push on the thin bit of dashboard trim below my vents it will stop...for about 20m and then will start again
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11-23-2015, 08:01 PM | #35 |
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It doesn't sound like your's is a strut bar problem. They tightened the bar up and now its fine like before. It turned out they didn't charge me anything. Good luck.
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05-11-2016, 12:45 PM | #36 |
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Noise From Dash - Passenger
I've had this dash noise from the beginning and have never been able to figure out what it is. Here is a link to the sound. Its like a creaking, plastic sound. Drives me crazy. I've tried jamming cardboard between the dash and windshield, along the pillar with no results.
Has anyone every had this same sound and if so, how did you eliminate it?[u2b]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-gunJH5JkY&feature=youtu.be[/u2b] |
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05-16-2016, 05:06 PM | #37 |
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Same boat here.
There's a very common creak/rattle that comes from around the doors. BMW updated the door seals around 2010 or 2012. The old ones with the suede bits dry up (the actual seals do, not the suede) and Vaseline will quiet them down. The sound is actually generated by the shadowline outside. |
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05-23-2016, 06:51 PM | #38 |
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Dashboard rattle
Had this problem guys found that the engine cover was not secured properly when bring taken to service, so i removed it an clipped it from inside then pushed it in and made sure it was secure, ever since then no sign of rattle.
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06-07-2017, 12:57 PM | #39 |
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I've got the rattle issues as well. It comes from the interface between the AC faceplate and ash tray (non-idrive variant). Any thoughts/suggestions?
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09-03-2017, 10:23 AM | #40 |
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Dashboard rattle diagnosed to a loose bolt in the engine compartment
My 2008 328xi developed a very annoying rattle that seemed to come from the middle of the dash when going over bumpy roads. After 2 months of fruitless search inside the car I opened the hood and found that the engine cover was loose. The car was serviced 3 month ago, at a BMW dealer. Tightened the remaining bolts, and found that two bolts were missing. The rattle changed a bit, however continued. I checked under the hood and found that the passenger side stiffener bar had a loose bolt (a remnant from the service visit). Tightened by hand and the car is rattle less.
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08-26-2018, 09:44 AM | #41 |
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for me it was a loose bolt behind right rear vent passenger side needed tightening. required flat head screw driver to pull out wood piece slightly (may need to unplug ignition and button connections, i only had to do ignition)
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12-16-2019, 01:25 PM | #42 |
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Have an annoying dashboard rattle. Only happens at certain speeds and/or road conditions.
Sounds like it's coming from the top vent on the dash. From what it seems like, it may be the wiper blades (which need to be replaced). I used my hand to push down on any part of the dash once the noise becomes apparent but it doesn't seem to go away. Any tips/info I can use? Thanks guys. |
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01-14-2021, 07:56 AM | #43 |
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Hello, I can't found the source of my rattling dashboard. It comes from somewhere between engine bay and behind the dashboard, appears after little ride. Independence on engine rpms, mainly heared in 2000-2500 rpms. Under the hood there is no rattling, only in interior. Any tips, please? Look at this video and sound up!
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07-08-2024, 02:04 AM | #44 | |
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Firstly, once you have tried holding down the trim manually to establish it is the culprit of the noise, use a credit card and push it in the gap between the dashboard and the silver trim. It should be quite tight. Secondly, if the card stops the noise next get a small black cable tie (about card thickness) and cut off ends then using a wooden toothpick push the cable tie into the same gap where the card was. Make sure it is all the way in and you should find it is virtually invisible. Job done hopefully. |
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