[Vidicus]

Hey everyone! I'm new to the forums, so please bare with me while I attempt to explain my issues. Late-October of this year, I was making my biweekly trip from home back to college, which is about 3 hours of not fun. While on my way back, I hit a deer on the expressway head on. It set off both airbags in the front seats (I had a passenger), as well as crushed the hood, bumper, radiators, fan, a few connectors, the windshield, the headlights, and a couple other minor parts. I had it towed to my barn where I have all my tools, and then I began to collect parts.

Most of the parts I purchased off of an 06' 325i (radiators, fan, crash bar, radiator support, alternator, idler pulley, impact sensors, MRS module, BST, headlight brackets, nozzles, engine cover, and a couple other little things), and then bought the rest on the internet.

I had the front clip mostly reassembled, and on the interior the center console was out so I could access the module. The airbags, impact sensors, and rear seatbelt tensioners were not connected. I also replaced the BST.

Now here's the problem: I had the car on, but not started, to begin to pull codes with INPA. This process went fine, the car powered on, and non of the lights were dimming or anything like that. I came back a week later to begin one of the last procedures before starting it up again, which was to bleed the water pump. I noticed that the lights were starting to dim, and then there began the clicking. It was coming from the fuse box behind the glove box.

I figured it may be the battery dying because of the dimming and what not, so I hooked jumpers up. This worked fine, and I ran the procedure to bleed the system. However, it was taking much longer than 12 minutes, as I could still hear fluid being pushed through the system.

At this point, I called up a buddy whom told me to try to start it. So I did. It did nothing, but the clicking started again. The electronics slowly started to die, and the clicking became more clear. I took the battery out to inspect and read it at ~11.7 volts. That was fine, as I figured that it would take ~6-8 volts to get the starter to crank, which it was not doing. When I placed the junction box and negative back on the battery, the car would turn on for half a second, then all the electronics would turn off and the clicking started again.

I then measured the voltage drop when I had the battery connected and it dropped to ~6.7 volts! Then, upon taking the negative off of the battery, I measured it again and it was ~10 volts. Whatever is drawing power is draining the battery very fast without any of the electronics on.

I then traced back the clicking to relay Kl. 30g. Pulled it and clicking went away, but still the same voltage drops and everything. As I said, BST is connected (plugged just BST onto battery and measured voltage from the end of BST and negative post on the battery, measured the same voltage as it was when the terminal wasn't on), the IBS I went ahead and disconnected (no change), wiggled around some wires behind the fuse box (no change).

I'm going to now go check if the starter is getting power, as well as check the relay for continuity, and charge the battery all the way back up while it's out of the car. Also going to take a peek at the ground straps. I can now no longer pull codes as the electronics do not work, only the relay I pulled out. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has any questions, please let me know. I've been f***ing with this thing for a week now and I just want my damn car to start so I can get back to driving it

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Vidicus

...Now here's the problem: I had the car on, but not started, to begin to pull codes with INPA. This process went fine, the car powered on, and non of the lights were dimming or anything like that. [Info needed here related to time elapsed since deer incident, charging of battery, voltage measurements, etc.]

I came back a week later to begin one of the last procedures before starting it up again, which was to bleed the water pump. I noticed that the lights were starting to dim, and then there began the clicking. It was coming from the fuse box behind the glove box. I figured it may be the battery dying because of the dimming and what not, so I hooked jumpers up. [WHAT did you "hook jumpers" to -- a running vehicle, a different battery, a high-speed charger, etc.] This worked fine, and I ran the procedure to bleed the system. However, it was taking much longer than 12 minutes, as I could still hear fluid being pushed through the system. [Did the clicking continue when you first hooked up jumpers, or did it start again ONLY after start attempt as next-described]?

At this point, I called up a buddy whom told me to try to start it. So I did. It did nothing, but the clicking started again. The electronics slowly started to die, and the clicking became more clear. I took the battery out to inspect and read it at ~11.7 volts. That was fine, as I figured that it would take ~6-8 volts to get the starter to crank, which it was not doing. [11.7V will NOT engage the starter -- solenoid chatter -- ratchet-like sound is what I would expect at MOST, perhaps only a click]. When I placed the junction box and negative back on the battery, the car would turn on for half a second, then all the electronics would turn off and the clicking started again. I then measured the voltage drop when I had the battery connected and it dropped to ~6.7 volts! Then, upon taking the negative off of the battery, I measured it again and it was ~10 volts. Whatever is drawing power is draining the battery very fast without any of the electronics on.

I then traced back the clicking to relay Kl. 30g. Pulled it and clicking went away, but still the same voltage drops and everything...I can now no longer pull codes as the electronics do not work, only the relay I pulled out.

What is the Build Date (see door sticker) of your 328xi E90? Circuit Info I link is for build between 3/1/2007 & 8/31/2007. If earlier build, you need to consult different circuit diagram & fuse numbering system.

Actually, BEFORE wasting any time testing circuits, fully-charge your battery & then load test it. If you have a battery charger & multimeter you can do that yourself. Don't even bother disconnecting it from the vehicle. Attach battery charger to the Jumpstart terminals under the hood and charge for several hours at 6 Amp rate.

Measure battery voltage 10 to 15 minutes AFTER removing battery charger, and if NOT 12.5V or more. Charge several hours longer if less than 12.5V. Note Voltage, insert remote key, note radio/lights behavior, Foot on brake press START, and if NOTHING, measure battery voltage. If NOW in 10V range, you don't have a vehicle wiring problem, you have a battery with internal fault or "bad cell" and it has just flunked the load test. If it sat in barn in <32F temps with minimal charge, that probably finished the battery.

Here's the DME Power Supply TIS circuit diagram for later 2007 E90, but I strongly suspect your battery is failing when you press start, and can't even engage Kl. 30g and DME relays (hence the chattering contacts/ clicking.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/xGCYTPF

Please let us know what you find,
George

[nsjames]

relay chattering is a good sign that the voltage is simply dropping too low when a load is applied to the battery.

agree with the above.

[tcphoto]

How about a paragraph break to make the post readable? I’ll wait for the cliff notes.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by tcphoto

How about a paragraph break to make the post readable? I’ll wait for the cliff notes.

Post #2 WAS the Cliff Notes -- still cross-eyed though.

[Vidicus]

I had hit the deer almost two months ago now, and prior to everything, the battery was fine. Even afterwards up until two weeks ago nothing was freaking out as it is currently. I didn’t check the voltage of the battery because everything seemed to be working fine.

When I jumped it, I was using a high-speed 15 amp charger. The clicking started with the jumpers off when I first tried to turn it over, then with the jumpers on it began clicking when I pushed the button, but not when I didn’t.

Thanks for clarifying the voltage needed to start it, George. You’re spot on with the ratchet-like sounds. The build date was 12/06, so it was a previous build. I’ve got my battery on the charger right now, I’m going to leave it overnight. I’ll post the results for everyone following the load test.

I apologize for the lack of paragraph breaks. Beginners mistake, I just edited it to make it easier

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Vidicus

...When I jumped it, I was using a high-speed 15 amp charger. The clicking started with the jumpers off when I first tried to turn it over, then with the jumpers on it began clicking when I pushed the button, but not when I didn’t.

Thanks for clarifying the voltage needed to start it, George. You’re spot on with the ratchet-like sounds. The build date was 12/06, so it was a previous build. I’ve got my battery on the charger right now, I’m going to leave it overnight. I’ll post the results for everyone following the load test.

I don't know how "High-Speed Chargers" (> 6 Amp) get along with BMW Electronic Modules. I hope you at least connected to the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood as opposed to the battery itself? Many vehicle manufacturers suggest (or used to suggest) disconnecting the battery from the vehicle if you use a High-Speed Charger.

Time to start sourcing a replacement battery. If you were using a charger as opposed to a host battery, when you put starter load on the battery, the battery voltage immediately "caved" to ~ 10V from the load. Although it should recover to 12V+, or perhaps even a healthy-appearing 12.7V after charging overnight, don't be surprised if exactly the same thing happens when you press START. Do measure voltage afterwards just to confirm kaput.

Remember the chattering starter solenoid sound (ratchet-like clicking) and the relay chatter. Those are signs of low voltage where the battery is unable to hold the solenoid in to engage/crank the starter, and unable to even keep the relay contacts engaged by current flow through the relay electromagnet (relatively LOW draw).

Although it's NOT 100% certain, I would be surprised if it passes the home-made load test. If you replace the battery with the same TYPE of battery (Wet Lead Acid vs. AGM) and same Amp-hour battery rating (should appear on battery case), you do NOT need to use INPA or other Software to (1) "register" the new battery (that only enters the current mileage/km as a record for future reference by a tech), (2) reset the Ah rating, or even (3) Reset the Histogram, as that will be over-written in 5 start cycles anyway. All that assumes that the correct DME Power Module settings were made when the current battery was installed.

You must know what you are doing to be able to rebuild a 12-year old car that I'm sure the insurance company "totaled." My condolences to the the deer's family & consider yourself fortunate it didn't come through the windshield.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[Efthreeoh]

I gotta ask...

Why didn't you just let your insurance company handle the repair?

You know that your comprehensive coverage policy covers deer accidents, right?

[Vidicus]

I ended up pulling the entire battery out to put it on the charger. I didn’t want to risk frying anything and that seemed like the only viable option. I’ll be sure to measure the voltages and write them down tomorrow, hoping for the best, expecting the worst.

The current battery was a replacement battery that met the same spec as the stock battery, so if I do end up having to replace it, I’ll just grab the same battery. Also, not sure how accurate Autozone is with their battery testing, but I had taken it to Autozone earlier today just to see and they claim the battery is fine, but at 47% charge.

I’ve got some mechanic experience, I worked with my step dad repairing cars for a few years and had a couple auto classes in high school. I’m a freshman in college now, and because the rates are cheaper, I’m on my parent’s insurance. They said they didn’t want to do anything that would affect their rates, so I either had to total it out or fix it myself. I checked out the frame, there was 0 damage, so I found a junkyard in Illinois that had factory parts for cheap. They showed me the donor car ran and everything, the only problem was a misfire.

Would’ve loved to have had the insurance company cover it, but instead I got to spend $3k on parts and go through several hours of hell only to come up a bit short

Can’t blame the deer for stopping to look at the car, just wish it would’ve enjoyed from the median and not the middle of the road.

Also, thank you guys for the speedy response times and the input on what I should do, I would’ve spent another few days trying to figure out where to go next!

[Vidicus]

Here are some pics of the accident/repair stages I've gone through so far so everyone has a better reference of the damages.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Vidicus

I ended up pulling the entire battery out to put it on the charger. I didn’t want to risk frying anything and that seemed like the only viable option. I’ll be sure to measure the voltages and write them down tomorrow, hoping for the best, expecting the worst.

The current battery was a replacement battery that met the same spec as the stock battery, so if I do end up having to replace it, I’ll just grab the same battery. Also, not sure how accurate Autozone is with their battery testing, but I had taken it to Autozone earlier today just to see and they claim the battery is fine, but at 47% charge.

I’ve got some mechanic experience, I worked with my step dad repairing cars for a few years and had a couple auto classes in high school. I’m a freshman in college now, and because the rates are cheaper, I’m on my parent’s insurance. They said they didn’t want to do anything that would affect their rates, so I either had to total it out or fix it myself. I checked out the frame, there was 0 damage, so I found a junkyard in Illinois that had factory parts for cheap. They showed me the donor car ran and everything, the only problem was a misfire.

Would’ve loved to have had the insurance company cover it, but instead I got to spend $3k on parts and go through several hours of hell only to come up a bit short

Can’t blame the deer for stopping to look at the car, just wish it would’ve enjoyed from the median and not the middle of the road.

Also, thank you guys for the speedy response times and the input on what I should do, I would’ve spent another few days trying to figure out where to go next!

Okay, so for next time keep this as a reference... Deer accidents are covered under comprehensive AND DO NOT AFFECT insurance premimums. The accident would have totaled the car, so you could have either got paid out for it, or bought it back and paid the difference to have it repaired by a professional.

[GoDores]

Yeah, with an airbag deployment that's totaled. Part it out. You should be able to get enough value back to buy an equivalent replacement with no damage history.

[Vidicus]

Efthreeoh, I wish I would've known that sooner. Thanks for the info, I'll keep it in mind if something happens again.

I would part it out if I wasn't already so far into it. I've gone through a couple forums with airbag deployments on E90's that've been repaired, so I'm hoping to finish up this one. If it happens again, God forbid, I won't even bother fixing it. But for now, just looking to get it running and button it up.

[nsjames]

remove battery from car.

charge it completely overnight.

15a from your charger doesn't even begin to cover what the starter draws.

after you're sure you have a fully charged battery, start looking for voltage drops in the harness.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Okay, so for next time keep this as a reference... Deer accidents are covered under comprehensive AND DO NOT AFFECT insurance premimums. The accident would have totaled the car, so you could have either got paid out for it, or bought it back and paid the difference to have it repaired by a professional.

Originally Posted by Vidicus

Efthreeoh, I wish I would've known that sooner. Thanks for the info, I'll keep it in mind if something happens again.

Insurance coverage terms are mandated/regulated by State Law, so what applies to me in VA, "F30" in MD, or you in MI varies according to state law and any gratuitous policy provisions, LESS limited, or fewer EXCLUSIONS from coverage than limited by state law.

Comprehensive claims traditionally were related to damage occurring while the car was PARKED, and NOT being OPERATED, e.g. deer falls from sky onto car while parked.

"F30" is correct that we should ALWAYS look at the policy provisions (the text of the policy) to see WHAT is covered or excluded from coverage in each fact scenario, rather than assuming our recollection of such coverage from years ago is correct. If you have ANY concern that the insurer is NOT complying with the State-mandated provisions, check the State Code/Statutes online, under Insurance/ Liability or Automobile.

My Progressive policy DOES specifically add "damages from an animal hit" to the Comprehensive coverage (subject to whatever deductible your comprehensive coverage has).

Since you have no claim being filed against you by surviving heirs of decedent (deer ;-), and presumably none by the passenger or anyone else arising from the collision with said deer, your/your parents' insurance rates have NOT already increased. MOST comprehensive claims do NOT allow insurer to raise rates, but due to the unusual nature of the "damages from an animal hit" addition to the comprehensive coverage you should check the policy provisions (AND MI insurance law) carefully to "insure" that such a claim will NOT cause an increase.

Assuming (1) you had Comprehensive (optional) coverage on that vehicle at date of loss, (2) your Comprehensive coverage DOES include "damages from animal hit" or similar collision with animal provisions, and (3) Comprehensive Claim made on your facts will NOT increase future premiums, GO FOR IT.

You have a witness to occurence (passenger). You have photos of damage. You have receipts for replacement parts obtained. You have witnesses to your labor (any payment for labor is ???). Your delay in making the claim, or even in reporting the incident has NOT prejudiced the insurer in evaluating or mitigating/ minimizing the claim.

To the contrary, you should be prepared to argue that you have done the insurer a favor by doing everything yourself BEFORE any claim (for reimbursement) was made, making their traditional expenses of damage appraisal by field appraiser unnecessary.

Good luck,
George

[Vidicus]

I’m sorry for taking 12 years to respond, I was preparing for the holiday.

George, that’s a damn fine idea. I wouldn’t too terribly mind reimbursement for doing all of the legwork on the repair, so I’m definitely going to look into that! Thanks for the info!

Anyways, I went ahead and removed the battery from the car and charged it completely overnight. When I reconnected it, everything appeared to be fine. All the electrical components seemed to be working, so I attempted to start it. It started, but immediately died. Pushing on the gas pedal kept it alive for a few more seconds, but it didn’t too much like that, so it misfired and I shut it down. Because I had enough power now, I went ahead and pulled the following codes:

ERROR MEMORY
Date: 22.12.2018 19:21:34
Model: E89X
Scope: all control module
Job Status: OKAY
Quantity: 17

92 VIRTSG92 ERROR_ECU_SERVICE_NOT_SUPPORTED

00 JBBF OKAY No Error stored

01 MRS OKAY 5 Error stored
93D0 E0 – Airbags/Battery Dead(?)
93B4 E0 – Airbag (drivers side)
93B5 E0 – Seatbelt Tensioner (rear)
93B6 E0 – Seatbelt Tensioner (rear)
93A8 E0 – Airbag (drivers side)

12 DME/ DDE OKAY 4 Error stored
2A85 D1 – VANOS (output?)
2E84 54 – Water Pump
2E98 54 – Alternator
2E8B 51 – IBS Cable(?)

17 EKP OKAY No Error stored

18 EGS OKAY No Error stored

19 VGSG OKAY No Error stored

29 DSC OKAY 3 Error stored
5F12 E0 – Brake Pad Sensor (front)
9520 E0 – Steering Wheel Angle (recalibrate?)
5DCF E0 – Steering Wheel Angle (recalibrate?)

36 TEL/MULF OKAY No Error stored

40 CAS OKAY No Error stored

56 FZD OKAY No Error stored

60 KOMBI OKAY 1 Error stored
931D 62 – Over/Under Voltage

62 MOSTGW OKAY No Error stored

63 MASK/CCC OKAY No Error stored

6D FAS OKAY No Error stored

72 FRM OKAY 1 Error stored
9CC1 34 – Side Power Mirror (passenger)

78 KLIMA OKAY 1 Error stored
9C6C 61 – Cigarette Lighter (suspected removal of lighter piece)

The airbag codes are because the rear seatbelt tensioners and the steering wheel bag aren’t in the car as I’m still waiting for them to come in the mail. The power mirror I’m well aware is broken as it tends to have a mind of its own. The brake code is just the sensor in the front; currently just waiting on the new rotors before I go ahead and do them.

The tricky code is the VANOS. When I hit the deer, a couple of connectors broke. One being the radiator fan (I soldered each cable back together and wrapped them up), the other being the VANOS output connector. I ended up pulling one from a junk 328i and soldered that in pretty, but it looks like it’s still throwing a code.

It’s also worth mentioning that the actuator for the 4x4 is toast, and while it previously threw codes, I don’t appear to be getting any now?
Not too sure what the hell to do beyond testing the alternator, the water pump, and cranking the steering wheel back and forth to hopefully clear a couple codes. Any help from you guys would be very very much appreciated

[Vidicus]

Bump

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Vidicus

I’m sorry for taking 12 years to respond, I was preparing for the holiday...

Six DAYS with as much as you've had on your plate is NO reason to apologize. I just saw your post from yesterday & bump. I'll review it thoroughly and reply later today.

Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays,
George

[Vidicus]

Thanks for understanding, man take your time, it's the busiest time of the year. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you, as well!
-Joe

[Vidicus]

Also, I forgot to tell everyone, the VANOS was causing the no start. I traced the wire back as much as I could and found a complete break in it. Soldered it back together, measured the voltage, and the car started and kept running. Still having an issue with the DME codes, but rest assured, I'm one happy ass camper!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Vidicus

...
ERROR MEMORY
Date: 22.12.2018 19:21:34
Model: E89X
Scope: all control module
Job Status: OKAY
Quantity: 17
...
12 DME/ DDE OKAY 4 Error stored
2A85 D1 – VANOS (output?)
2E84 54 – Water Pump
2E98 54 – Alternator
2E8B 51 – IBS Cable(?)

Taking it a bite at a time, starting with DME:

I assume the code readout you inserted is from INPA, Functional Jobs? In case you are NOT aware, after reading codes in ALL (17 in your case) modules, you can then connect to each module which has faults (DME in this case) and get (a) Fault Code Definition, (b) P-code equivalent, (c) Fault Details or Freeze Frame Data (should record/save BEFORE you clear the code so you have a record in case it recurs).

A disconnected IBS connector above the battery is probably causing your Alternator, Coolant Pump & IBS communication faults. If NOT that (if it is currently plugged in) then next check would be proper connection at both water pump & alternator.

1) 2A85: I presume your Camshaft Sensor broken wire was Exhaust side, as that is what BMW FC 2A85 relates to, either circuit open, or circuit low (P0013 or P2090). If you cleared that code and it came back, please advise, otherwise I'll assume that's taken care of.

2) 2E84: Electric Coolant Pump, Communication; that means the BSD BUS has a fault, either due to being disconnected above the battery, or a loose/ damaged connector.

3) 2E98: I don't find that code in Bentley; connect to DME and get definition. My bet would be "communication error."

4) 2E8B: get Definition of code in DME memory (F4: Fault Memory/Fehlerspeicher) and also get corresponding P-code as there are four (4) P-codes for that ONE BMW FC. Probably P150B, but here are the four choices:
P150A |2E8B | Battery Sensor Extended Communication Circuit
P150B |2E8B | Battery Sensor Serial Data Interface
P150C |2E8B | Battery Sensor Firmware Implausible
P150D |2E8B | Battery Sensor Temperature Error

So check for bad connection at the BSD connectors, correct any disconnect, clear codes, see if recur. We'll then move to next item you want to address.

Merry Christmas,
George

[gbalthrop]

Hey Joe,

TIS Circuit Diagram for 12/06 build 2007 328xi E90, BSD Interface:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rfaces/oYPEvM2

Installation Location for IBS to BSD connector, X13895:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...sensor/SQE9rMY

Forget what I was saying about Blue & Brown wires. That is for BST connector & the IBS to BSD is only ONE wire.

George