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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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09-19-2012, 10:40 PM | #1696 |
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Just a quick question; I'm attempting to do some scratch / swirl repairs on my Alpine White E90 (2007) and while I've managed to get rid of most, if not all swirls, I'm struggling to get rid of some of the deeper scratches.
I'm currently using a Flex 3401 with Meg 105 on both LC Cyan and Surbuf pads. The previous owner would have used the bootlid as a shelf for his suitcase and while the scratches arent through to the metal, I can't seem to do much in way of repairs. I'm holding back really getting stuck in for fear of going 'too far'. On to my question: Is it safe to say that while I can still clearly see the factory orange peal in the paint - there's still plenty of clear left to continue on with repairs? Just how hard is the clear on an Alpine White (3) e90? Thanks! |
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09-21-2012, 12:49 PM | #1697 | |
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In this case it sounds like the scratches are too deep to be safely buffed out. Most likely some touch up work (ie paint, wet sand, polish, etc.) would be needed to really fix it. For the other areas if you still see lots of orange peel I would think that would mean enough clear coat is there to still polish safely as you mentioned. Again a gage is needed to be certain but it is a good visual indicator. Greg @ DI |
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09-21-2012, 03:29 PM | #1698 |
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hi, you may have answered this 20 times already but here it goes.
noob next door got outdoor latex paint drops on my hood and fender. will just washing it take it off? or am i in need of something else? its 2011 montego blue metallic. also he came over and looks like rubbed it with his finger and water, i hope it was not thinner! after i told him not to touch it till i find out whats best way thanks
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09-24-2012, 12:29 PM | #1699 | |
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I'd also take pictures of this just in case it caused any other damage to be on the safe side. Good luck! Greg @ DI |
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09-25-2012, 11:27 AM | #1700 |
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Thanks. I washed the car. It seemed to lighten up with just the water first. I then washed it with lots of soap. I didnt have to rub too hard, just normal wipe. And I don't think I can tell if it had it on before. Would I have to clay still you think?
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09-27-2012, 10:16 AM | #1701 | |
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09-29-2012, 10:57 AM | #1702 |
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2x DI accessories sheepskin mitt
5x DI microfiber no edge towel 1x. DI waffle weave towel 1x lake country blue grit sponge (for wheels) 1x grit guard 1x mini ez detail brush 1x 200g gentle fine clay 1x dodo juice born slippy clay lube 1x black fire wet diamond sealant 1x sonax wheel cleaner 1x poor boys wheel sealant 1x P21S degreaser 1x 303 fabric and vinyl cleaner 1x 303 fabric guard 1x 303 aerospace protectant 1x stoner invisible glass 1x glass science rain clear How's this list? I'm not looking to polish yet. What would be a good car shampoo? And what would I use to clean and seal the exhaust tip? This is all in a cart on detailedimage.com |
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09-29-2012, 02:40 PM | #1703 | |
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-303 is a great product - i would say aquapel in replacement of rain clear |
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09-29-2012, 07:16 PM | #1704 |
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09-30-2012, 01:09 PM | #1705 |
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09-30-2012, 02:01 PM | #1706 |
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10-12-2012, 09:15 AM | #1707 | ||
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I bolded the clay lube because you don't need it. Get some instant detailer, it will work the same and you can use it on your paint after a wash. Unfortunately DI doesn't sell Meguiar's detailer but that is the best, IMO in terms of on/off and clarity. Optimum doesn't do it for me. Get more towels - I'd get 12+ of the blue microfiber square ones, two waffle weave, and 4-6 "Great White" towels, my favorite: http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...30/16-x-24-S1/ Also get another sheepskin mitt, have at least two. A sponge won't cut it for wheels, IMO, get a detail brush: http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Brus.../Full-Size-S1/ For shampoo, I like Optimum. Slippery and foams up great. I buy the big bottles: http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...P284/32-oz-S1/ I like to apply glaze first then sealant, it will give the paint extra depth and hide minor imperfections: http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P192/16-oz-S1/ *Deep breath* - last but not least, I am a HUGE fan of Meguiar's M40: http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiar...-P402/16oz-S1/ Use that on all your rubber seals, plastics - it's fantastic. It will also restore any rubber that is starting to fade/oxidize. For example, the little rubber storage trays in my center console were oxidized when I got the car (brand new car ... go figure) - applied M40, been fine since. It also makes a great tire shine. You can (and should) still use leather protectant. Leatherette doesn't need as much care as leather but the key word is as much; it can get brittle. Leather protectant will keep it nice and flexible. I use the Optimum Leather Protectant Plus, it works nicely and smells good. --- Thanks Greg for all your contributions here ... this thread is an absolutely fantastic resource. I used it this morning to figure out which pads and such to use for polishing soon. I'm also going to pick up Cquartz. Heard nothing but good things. Last edited by CJ421; 10-12-2012 at 09:23 AM.. |
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10-12-2012, 10:50 AM | #1709 |
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Just make sure you get any excess off after applying, it will dry and get caked on there and is then very difficult to remove. My advice, take the wheels off the car to apply.
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10-12-2012, 11:34 AM | #1710 |
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Thanks. I can't take the wheels off as i have no suitable jack, even when running NRFTs! But i'll now make sure to completely remove all the product
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10-15-2012, 11:11 AM | #1711 | |
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If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask and if you need a quicker response e-mail us! Greg @ DI |
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10-15-2012, 11:15 AM | #1712 |
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The Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant has always worked great for me and been easy to work with. You have to apply it very thin for best results, a very little bit goes a long ways so it's a great value. Wait about 10 - 15 minutes before buffing off the excess product and avoid direct sun if possible. Following this process I've never had an issue.
If you want even more durable protection check out the 22ple VM1 Metal and Wheel Coating. It lasts about a year and works incredibly well! Greg @ DI |
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10-15-2012, 11:19 AM | #1713 |
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The Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil combo worked incredibly well on leatherette, coated leathers, leather and more! You'll love the results and you can see it in action here in Todd Cooperider's Leatherique How To blog post.
Greg @ DI |
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10-19-2012, 02:11 PM | #1714 |
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Just had a mtech bumper installed as my original stock e92 was bumped into and the person paid out of pocket.
I know not to wax/seal for 30 days, however I was wondering what is safe? I use optimum shampoo and ONR as a quick detailer, wondering if those are 'safe' to use for the first 30 days? |
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11-20-2012, 11:46 AM | #1715 | |
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12-17-2012, 10:56 PM | #1716 |
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Hey DI,
I just got into an 06 Monaco Blue 330i a few weeks ago and love the car. The car was taken care of by the previous owner and seems to have only light swirls and just a couple small scratches. I would like to build a detailing kit and wanted advice on which products to start with. After reading up I would like to include the PC 7424xp polisher and a foam gun. I would also need leather care products. the products i have now are standard auto parts shampoo and towels so i have to start from scratch. Thanks for your time. |
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