[rooks335]

Hi guys
Rain alot and cold here in Perth today and upon starting the car at work there was some shaking and thought nothing of it since it was cold. 200 meters down from work engine malfunction came up. Pulled over and read the dme codes using mhd and basically injectors 4 to 6 activation codes came up. Turned off car and cleared codes. Turned on continued driving home since im only 5km. As soon as i try to hit boost engine malfunction came up again,pulled over and read dme codes again. This time cylinder 5 activation. Cleared and continued my journey slowly, < 60 kmph.
Literally 1km from home dsc, tyre pressure monitor and abs lit up on the i drive. Perfect pulled over turned off the car and thought this looks very similar to the i drive messages during mhd flash, so i decided to flash on the the side of the road thinking that from stage 1 to stock flash would only be 2mins and i had recently charged the battery on sunday.
At about 33% into flashing back to v7 stock it errored "paket".
Now comes the crappy bit. The car no longer starts just cranks and i could no longer read my dme to resume my flash.
i tired the following without success :
Changed otg cables
Put my ctek charger on (using another car with power converter) and tried reading dme, no luck.
Disconnected the negative for 15mins

K+DCAN cable would be solid orange when connected then when mhd read dme code or Flash stock map it would blink green maybe twice then no lights and could not read dme check ignition and obd cable message appears.
Ignition was on and phone on airplane mode with all doors closed when trying to flash and read the code.
Have I bricked my dme? Is there light at the end of the tunnel using another flashing tool like tools32 or inpa? (i have a virtual machine with all the tools but super beginner level coding skills)

Any suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated.

So at the moment im out of ideas while sitting here waiting for the tow truck.

[Socket]

ahhhh shit mate that sucks... get it home and put it on the charger. Hopefully it connects and flashes back to stock on a full battery GL

[vtl]

Did water get into the dme box?

[DR-JEKL]

Could be battery related, wack her on charger o/nite and try again...'

How old is the battery?

[Socket]

Originally Posted by vtl

Did water get into the dme box?

Where exactly is the DME located Vince?

[Brule]

Unable to brick dme with mhd.

It doesnt matter what colour is on your cable flashing it matters if your app is "connected" to dme.

Sounds like you have injector issue and seperately you have failed to complete a flash draining the battery.

You just need to put a map on the car then diagnose the codes you are having.

Bank 2 injectors have failed due to something. Pre o2 sensor, connector loose...

[rooks335]

Update
Got the car home via flat bed towing last night and put the battery on the ctek charger via the engine bay. Downloaded an otg checker app too to test my normally reliable sony otg cable.
This morning I took it off the charger and the voltage read 12.4/5 with ignition on. Still no dme connection via mhd.
Went on to try the xHP transmission app and it connected nicely. Went on to read the fault codes and there are a bunch of ecu errors.
Cleared the errors successfully then tried mhd again, still no connection.
Attached are the before and after clearing the fault codes via xHP.

Thanks for the responses gents, I'll check the physical state of the dme after work today. Vince is the dme next to the brake fluid reservoir?

Would inpa or other bmw tools be the answer now?

[vtl]

DME box is on the opposite side of the car to the brake master cylinder etc. Remove cowl and there will be a white box.

Sometimes water can get in if you have opened the dme enclosure in the past (ie a JB4 install and didn't put the cover back on properly). Or running something silly like the BMS cowl filtersand removed the microfilter cowl which prevents proper water channelling.

[rooks335]

Originally Posted by vtl

DME box is on the opposite side of the car to the brake master cylinder etc. Remove cowl and there will be a white box.

Sometimes water can get in if you have opened the dme enclosure in the past (ie a JB4 install and didn't put the cover back on properly). Or running something silly like the BMS cowl filtersand removed the microfilter cowl which prevents proper water channelling.

Thanks vtl will have a look to see if cover is installed properly. Personally I've not opened it but who knows if the previous owner did.
Been also reading that the mosfet chips could also be toast. I'll see if inpa can talk to the ecu tonight.

Does anyone know any ecu experts in Perth?

[Ken Oath]

Have you had recent battery messages on iDrive? You mentioned having charged the battery on the weekend?

To check battery voltage, which is the least accurate way to determine battery condition, you need to measure the open circuit voltage. Open circuit voltage is the measurement with no load applied from any circuit so with the ignition on it will not provide an accurate value.

MOSFET is a known issue with MSD80 DME however that was rectified in MSD81 and as no fault codes are shown that is unlikely to be the culprit.

Use ISTA+ to interrogate the system, check battery SoC and run any test plans to isolate the problem. Also check the DME fuse and relay.

[rooks335]

I did receive charge low on the i drive hence why i hooked up the ctek on sunday. (two days before incident)
Ran ista+ and got reds on dde, cas and frm. Ista+ reads the vin and vehicle info nicely.
Found my original bin file from 2015 backed up using mhd. Should i attempt a flash of the dme using ista P or winkfp. Willing to pay for remote help with this issue.

[Ken Oath]

Without communication to the DME any attempt using ISTA/P and an ICOM will not be successful.

Without knowing more about the battery SoC you could try and disconnect the battery (-ve terminal) for 30 minutes to allow the vehicle to enter sleep. Then reconnect and attempt to flash back to stock with the MHD app.

[rooks335]

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

Without communication to the DME any attempt using ISTA/P and an ICOM will not be successful.

Without knowing more about the battery SoC you could try and disconnect the battery (-ve terminal) for 30 minutes to allow the vehicle to enter sleep. Then reconnect and attempt to flash back to stock with the MHD app.

I've taken the -ve off so it'll remain off while at work. thats a good 8-9 hours. will attempt another flash with MHD after work.

Ken is the attached steps correct when trying to find the state of charge of the battery using ISTA+ ?

[vtl]

Did you check the DME compartment yet?

[rooks335]

Originally Posted by vtl

Did you check the DME compartment yet?

Not yet, lousy wet weather in Perth at present. But will need to asap since looks like the DME product number is pretty important if a replacement unit is needed.

[Ken Oath]

The ISTA procedure is correct however, the IBS sends the information to the DME so without communication to the DME SoC can't be determined by ISTA. You can determine SoC with other diagnostic tools which an auto electrician will have or the RAC.

Also try and charge the battery for the longest period possible as even the best CTEK charger will only deliver 7A so it will take at least 24 hours to recover the battery not including system loss.

[rooks335]

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

The ISTA procedure is correct however, the IBS sends the information to the DME so without communication to the DME SoC can't be determined by ISTA. You can determine SoC with other diagnostic tools which an auto electrician will have or the RAC.

Also try and charge the battery for the longest period possible as even the best CTEK charger will only deliver 7A so it will take at least 24 hours to recover the battery not including system loss.

Does the IBS limit the amount of charge to the battery? Thinking if I should CTEK the battery directly by removing it from the car.
Even at 12 hours the CTEK would reach 11 out of 12. so yes perhaps 24hours is required.

[Ken Oath]

Originally Posted by rooks335

Does the IBS limit the amount of charge to the battery?.....

No.
Follow the method you have previously used by charging from the engine posts.

[rooks335]

Update
Opened the dme white plastic casing today and top white cover appears to be correctly seated and locked.
There was moisture at the bottom of the dme case. So the top end of the dme ecu and what appears to be a jb4 unit com port was coated in moisture. I have opened the dme metal plate and will attempt to spray some contact cleaner, hopefully not too late and the dme can be saved.
i am planning to remove the jb4 unit but leave the wiring in place.
not sure how moisture got in and sat at the bottom of the dme plastic housing /casing.
ive read that the top firewall hole goes to the fan blower (doubles as dme cooling?) while the bottom firewall goes to the glovebox.
I have had windscreen replacement 6 months ago but not sure how this effects things.

[Socket]

Must have been from the heavy rain you mentioned. Hopefully you recover mate

[Mayuri Krab]

Were you runing bms cowl filters?

[EB89]

How does water get in there. That’s scary.

I hope if you dry it out, the problems stop and there’s no perminant damage :/