[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by romniox789

... the JBE was the problem (kudos to independent dealer for getting it right first time and not charging me for things I didn't need) and replacement has sorted it...I hope this thread helps someone else out one day.

So did the Indy replace your original JBE? What Fault Codes were found and what tests were performed to identify the issue? As mentioned in a prior post in this thread: "ALL of the inoperative lock & window motors are controlled & powered via the JBE Module (A4010a), and ALL outputs are via the same Connector attached to the JBE Module, X14270."

Was there physical damage to the pins/sockets at Connector X14270, or was there electronic failure within the JBE? Had you ever had water in the footwell where the JB & JBE are located? A leak from the windshield or cowl can damage electronics in that area.

Thanks,
George

[romniox789]

Original JBE replaced and they did not mention physical damage; it appeared to be a failure within the JBE itself. If its the same component I think it is, then when I looked at it there appeared to be no water there and just delicately moving the cables attached to it didn't make anything respond so I'm not inclined to think it was physical. A bit of me wonders if the water ingress in the battery compartment created some interesting power fluctuations issues which might have damaged the JBE (but this is just speculation on my part based on the limited corrosion I could see from the connectors at the base of the battery). As well as the symptoms I had identified, apparently the car thought it had no fuel (although the fuel warning indicator in the dash wasn't indicating this). The one other snippet I remember in the discussion was that apparently they tried to upload the latest update code onto the JBE and although it would accept the upload of the code, it would not process it properly and update. I'll ask again when I pick it up and if I misunderstood will update this.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by romniox789

...If its the same component I think it is, then when I looked at it there appeared to be no water there and just delicately moving the cables attached to it didn't make anything respond so I'm not inclined to think it was physical. A bit of me wonders if the water ingress in the battery compartment created some interesting power fluctuations issues which might have damaged the JBE...I'll ask again when I pick it up and if I misunderstood will update this.

The JBE is plugged into the base of the JB (Junction Box or Fuse Panel). The JBE gets its power from the JB into which it is plugged. The JB gets its power via a "Third" battery cable that runs from the Power Distribution Panel on top of the battery, INSIDE the car to the JB.

So NEITHER the JB nor JBE should be DIRECTLY affected by water in the battery well which WILL affect the other two battery cables that go forward BENEATH the car from the "Transfer Points." However, it is possible that a short on the Large Transfer Point wire that goes to the alternator might cause voltage spikes from the alternator that could damage electronic modules, such as the JBE.

Did you ever observe the Battery Warning icon, or a "light show" with multiple unrelated warning icons on your instrument cluster (with motor running)? That is usually a symptom of "overvoltage" or Voltage output by the Alternator in excess of 15.0 Volts.

Thanks for taking the time to help us learn from your experience.

George

[romniox789]

Nope. No battery warning (at least not after the battery was replaced a year or so ago) and no light show. Will update tomorrow if I learn anything new. And thanks for the info; the BMW forum participation and enthusiasm is another reason to stay with the brand in the longer term.

[romniox789]

Quick update here. Turns out fuel indication was erroneous; it was low on fuel. This was not a symptom.

Since JBE replacement I noticed that a very high pitched noise that was historically audible via the speakers in the car whenever the electrical system was active (since I’ve owned it), has reduced in volume by 95%. It is still there if I listen incredibly hard but has almost disappeared. Helpful, as it was driving me nuts and I was quite convinced it had got notably louder in recent years. My wife couldn’t hear it (too high pitched for her).

Last thing - to open an E91 tailgate manually, you must remove the fabric insert on the inside of the tailgate just under the screen. It pulls off and there are some lever points at the base (hinges at top from memory). A manual release cord is on the right hand side hidden behind the sound deadening. There is a deliberate cut in the proofing material to help you find it (at least there is on mine).

[mweisdorfer]

The OP needs to get a BMW dedicated scanner.

OP -look into the Foxwell 510/520 or the schwaben version of it on ECS tuning website.

Or

Look at Bimmergeeks new App called Protool.

If all you had to do was get a new JBE module, you could have scanned for codes, purchased the correct module and maybe programmed it with protools, as an example.

Just my 2 cents

[quigger]

The thread above was useful to me when I had a similar issue.

My issue was:
"e91 boot hatch UN locking issues"

but with clock and trip mileage resets too.

So I link to my thread in case it's useful to anyone else:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...php?p=25644804
I included all threads I read.

[m.salvatore]

I'm joining this thread because I can't create a new one.
I lost the coding that when I open the trunk with the remote control button with the car closed the reverse light flashes now it doesn't do it anymore.
Which item to enable this function?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XCDCgoBWYEabEYhEA