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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > E90 M57 bmw 335d



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      10-18-2021, 03:45 PM   #1
hanxter7
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E90 M57 bmw 335d

so, i have gotten the stage 2.9 remap, after my abc delete. i am leaking coolant from a bleeder valve around the middle of the front of the engine. can any one shed some light and/or a solution for this problem? my car will not hold any coolant.
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      10-19-2021, 12:05 PM   #2
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Check the coolant lines that used to go to and from the EGR cooler.
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      10-19-2021, 05:11 PM   #3
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i have deleted the EGR, and all other emissions items, replaced the fuel pump, the thermostat, and the water pump, the harmonic balancer, and all the exhaust. could i have missed something?
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      10-20-2021, 11:58 AM   #4
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Carefully check all the components you worked on dealing with coolant. Is it all over the place or can you see it coming from somewhere specific?
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      10-20-2021, 01:25 PM   #5
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Years ago there was a manufacturing defect with the coolant block off from the TuneMyEuro near where the coolant would feed the bottom of the EGR at the engine block. Should be just to the driver's side of the coolant thermostat. Might need a new cap/block off piece. The updated one that TuneMyEuro made was 110% overbuilt out of aluminum.

https://www.tunemyeuro.com/billet-co...p-m57-n47-n57/

Last edited by SouthDiesel190; 10-20-2021 at 04:51 PM..
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      10-20-2021, 01:27 PM   #6
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Other idea is this coolant flange near the glow plug module underneath the intake

https://www.tunemyeuro.com/bmw-335d-...06196-aar2513/
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      10-20-2021, 02:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthDiesel190 View Post
Years ago there was a manufacturing defect with the coolant block off from the TuneMyEuro near where the coolant would feed the bottom of the EGR at the engine block. Should be just to the passenger side of the coolant thermostat. Might need a new cap/block off piece. The updated one that TuneMyEuro made was 110% overbuilt out of aluminum.

https://www.tunemyeuro.com/billet-co...p-m57-n47-n57/
It's not a manufacturer issue if it's just a nipple cap on the end of the plastic bit. Whitbread supplied caps never had this issue
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      10-20-2021, 04:51 PM   #8
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fair enough
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      10-21-2021, 01:25 PM   #9
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i think that billet cap for the water pump looks to be the exact problem umm having. That nipple is where the coolant is coming out consistently. i thought this was a necessary feature to release pressure, or excess moisture. is this not the case?
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      10-21-2021, 05:09 PM   #10
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Nope, used to feed the EGR to cool off the exhaust gases and just need to be blocked off if you don't have an EGR. You probably need a new cap. Whitbread and TuneMyEuro sells them. There's a seal inside that I guess could go bad but that's not a widely reported issue as far as I've personally seen.
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      10-21-2021, 09:00 PM   #11
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Thank you much. I'm pretty new to this, but off a little more than i can chew. I'm learning though.
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      10-25-2021, 02:53 PM   #12
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Get the billet cap, this will solve your issues.
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      10-25-2021, 06:54 PM   #13
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ok, wow, this is never ending. i fixed it with the billet cap, thank you everybody. then i realized i got the stage 2.9 tune, then forgot to get the delete add-on , which i have since bought and added and I'm no longer seeing the no start warning. now though, i recently had my battery tested. i have replaced the starter. and the fuel pump, belts and vacuum hoses, water pump and thermostat, ac compressor, and alternator. it will not start. it has a quarter tank of gas, coolant in the reservoir. i had jumper cables engaged and it sounded like it wanted to but never actually turned over, and then every time after not even a murmer. any ideas, i know there are a million, just wonder if the things i replaced may have messed something up, or of there is possibly a common mistake with newbies in this kind of endeavor.
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      10-25-2021, 07:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanxter7 View Post
ok, wow, this is never ending. i fixed it with the billet cap, thank you everybody. then i realized i got the stage 2.9 tune, then forgot to get the delete add-on , which i have since bought and added and I'm no longer seeing the no start warning. now though, i recently had my battery tested. i have replaced the starter. and the fuel pump, belts and vacuum hoses, water pump and thermostat, ac compressor, and alternator. it will not start. it has a quarter tank of gas, coolant in the reservoir. i had jumper cables engaged and it sounded like it wanted to but never actually turned over, and then every time after not even a murmer. any ideas, i know there are a million, just wonder if the things i replaced may have messed something up, or of there is possibly a common mistake with newbies in this kind of endeavor.
So u have a new starter? How new? And how old is the battery? When did u get it tested? Has your alternator been tested? Have u worked on your car recently and had the electronics turned on for lights or music? The battery honestly could have just dropped voltage and gone bad randomly. I would get it tested again, after making sure all cables are connected properly e.g. alternator to starter cable, starter to engine bay positive battery terminal cable, the other cables from this terminal (which is by the ecu box but on the engine bay side so the outside of the ecu box pretty much. If you need help finding this I can post a picture.) Check the TSB and recalls for the battery to glovebox fusebox cable. In certain years it's been known to fry and then ur battery has no connection to the front of the car which is where the grounds are as well as the alternator and starter. If that doesn't apply to you I would check the negative cable intelligent battery sensor (IBS), the battery safety terminal (BST) and the rest of the fuses in the power distribution box. If those are all good then check rest of the fuses, relays and ground cables. I think that's pretty much the most likely issues it could be.
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      10-25-2021, 08:31 PM   #15
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wow, ok, thank you. that gives me something to look at, I was about ready to just give up.
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      10-27-2021, 01:09 PM   #16
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Question

ok, new dilemma. I charged my battery, now it stays around 12.3 or 12.5. Which I think is good. It stays there even after I disconnect the jumper cables. When it was fully charged, I tried to start the car, it kept revving, but never turned over fully. So I feel like I can rule out the battery being the problem. Now I am left to wonder if it is the alternator or starter. Both of which I have replaced since the car first deadlined about 6 months ago. Now, it should be noted, the car has not been running, or even the ignition turned on since it stopped running. So, don't know if there could be something else going on. Also noted my previous post relating to all of the things I have replaced on here. Now I also accept there is a possibility that one the parts I replaced is in fact defective, though I hope not. I am wondering at this stage though, if it may be the alternator or the starter, which have both been replaced during this down time for the car. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?mad0259:
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      10-27-2021, 04:40 PM   #17
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So the engine never turns over when you attempt to start it?
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      10-27-2021, 06:44 PM   #18
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correct, i still need to test the alternator with my multimeter, just really hoping the problem is not on my starter, that's one of the more in depth problems to deal with.
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      10-27-2021, 11:26 PM   #19
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Has the car run since you changed the fuel pump? You mentioned changing fuel pump in your post #13. Fuel line has to be bled out of air to get car to start after disconnecting hpfp.
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      10-28-2021, 04:54 AM   #20
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oh, i know for sure that i never bled that, thank you for the heads up. i guess that's my next endeavor. could this cause everything that's wrong now?
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      10-28-2021, 07:03 AM   #21
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is there any kind of tutorial for a diy on the fuel system bleeding?
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      10-28-2021, 05:35 PM   #22
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You need the engine to turn over before you worry about bleeding the system. One thing at a time.
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