[simpleM3]

I recently installed these on Bilstein B8s and they seem to be noise free so far. Between everything that came in the box, I ended up only using the upper and lower rubber guide supports (to include the middle insert that goes in between). I did not use the metal plate/disk. I used the OEM supporting cup and OEM rubber grommet. I didn't see any value/benefit or even place for the metal washer.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

I recently installed these on Bilstein B8s and they seem to be noise free so far. Between everything that came in the box, I ended up only using the upper and lower rubber guide supports (to include the middle insert that goes in between). I did not use the metal plate/disk. I used the OEM supporting cup and OEM rubber grommet. I didn't see any value/benefit or even place for the metal washer.

I believe (though not entirely sure) that the metal washer is a replacement for the OEM supporting cup on aftermarket struts. The cup isn't supporting anything on the B8s since the bump stops are underneath the dust shield, so it acts like a washer. I'd assume the monroe washer would be most effective if the oem supporting cup was in rough shape (rusted through, sloppy hole etc)

[simpleM3]

You're right, but I actually used bumps stops from my E90 M3 and not the B8s, so that's why I used the cups.

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

I believe (though not entirely sure) that the metal washer is a replacement for the OEM supporting cup on aftermarket struts. The cup isn't supporting anything on the B8s since the bump stops are underneath the dust shield, so it acts like a washer. I'd assume the monroe washer would be most effective if the oem supporting cup was in rough shape (rusted through, sloppy hole etc)

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

You're right, but I actually used bumps stops from my E90 M3 and not the B8s, so that's why I used the cups.

Oh well there you go! No need for the washers in your case

[simpleM3]

Update, lol. I swapped out the E90 M3 BSs and installed the B8s last night. The height was bothering me and I attributing it to the taller bump stop. I thought it made hight in the rear look higher than I expected. The shit looks the same or maybe slightly lower but negligible at best.

I did not install the washer. I honestly don't see the purpose it serves. I guess time will tell if its needed.

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Oh well there you go! No need for the washers in your case

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

Update, lol. I swapped out the E90 M3 BSs and installed the B8s last night. The height was bothering me and I attributing it to the taller bump stop. I thought it made hight in the rear look higher than I expected. The shit looks the same or maybe slightly lower but negligible at best.

I did not install the washer. I honestly don't see the purpose it serves. I guess time will tell if its needed.

Well hopefully the new bump stop at least rides better, if you can tell at all. Maybe trim one or the other to get a bit lower? And I installed the black washer inside the cup more for peace of mind than anything. My thinking was it would add some reinforcement to my 14 year old cup that's seen better days, plus hopefully keep out more dirt, salt etc from entering the shock at the shaft.

If it does any of the above that's great, if not I don't see why adding it would hurt anyways. Maybe a few less mm of shock travel which you couldn't tell the difference either way

[simpleM3]

I may need to take another look at it. I currently have the rear B8s installed with the bilstein bump stops. the only deviation currently is that I don't have the Monroe washer nor the OE cups installed, but I noticed that the driver side is higher than then passenger in the rear. It's doesn't make sense as they identical on both sides. I also installed front Eibachs sways and I can't say that I feel any improvement. The ride actually feels shittier. I can feel everything from the road.

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Well hopefully the new bump stop at least rides better, if you can tell at all. Maybe trim one or the other to get a bit lower? And I installed the black washer inside the cup more for peace of mind than anything. My thinking was it would add some reinforcement to my 14 year old cup that's seen better days, plus hopefully keep out more dirt, salt etc from entering the shock at the shaft.

If it does any of the above that's great, if not I don't see why adding it would hurt anyways. Maybe a few less mm of shock travel which you couldn't tell the difference either way

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

I may need to take another look at it. I currently have the rear B8s installed with the bilstein bump stops. the only deviation currently is that I don't have the Monroe washer nor the OE cups installed, but I noticed that the driver side is higher than then passenger in the rear. It's doesn't make sense as they identical on both sides. I also installed front Eibachs sways and I can't say that I feel any improvement. The ride actually feels shittier. I can feel everything from the road.

Yep I'm not a fan of stiff suspension, it'll definitely take some getting used to compared to my comfy yet terrifying blown OE struts.

Also there's a reason for the drivers being higher than the passenger. Its for balance with the driver. If someone is sitting in the drivers side it supposed to even out. I have yet to see an E9X without this that isn't on coilovers or bags.

[simpleM3]

My e90 M is stiff so I'm familiar. I'm getting more of a sloppy, unstable type of feeling from it. I'm also getting quite a bit noise coming from the rear. No clucks or anything that egregious, but at slow speeds on bumpy roads, im getting this constant yearning, almost squeaky-type noise. I thought that maybe its the door trims or possibly even the rear seat trunk latches. It's definitely intolerable, so I have to investigate it further soon.

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Yep I'm not a fan of stiff suspension, it'll definitely take some getting used to compared to my comfy yet terrifying blown OE struts.

Also there's a reason for the drivers being higher than the passenger. Its for balance with the driver. If someone is sitting in the drivers side it supposed to even out. I have yet to see an E9X without this that isn't on coilovers or bags.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

My e90 M is stiff so I'm familiar. I'm getting more of a sloppy, unstable type of feeling from it. I'm also getting quite a bit noise coming from the rear. No clucks or anything that egregious, but at slow speeds on bumpy roads, im getting this constant yearning, almost squeaky-type noise. I thought that maybe its the door trims or possibly even the rear seat trunk latches. It's definitely intolerable, so I have to investigate it further soon.

Does this happen even during warm weather? I've noticed I get a lot of creaking when its cold out and I'm driving on bumpy roads.

[simpleM3]

Definitely not weather weather as its been pretty humid in my area. I hope its not these Monroe mounts l

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Does this happen even during warm weather? I've noticed I get a lot of creaking when its cold out and I'm driving on bumpy roads.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

Definitely not weather weather as its been pretty humid in my area. I hope its not these Monroe mounts l

I haven't had any additional noise in the back after installing these last weekend, only way it could be these is if somehow the metal sleeve for the upper lower was a few mm wider than the shaft, or if it was tightened down all the way. At least thats what I think

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

Update, lol. I swapped out the E90 M3 BSs and installed the B8s last night. The height was bothering me and I attributing it to the taller bump stop. I thought it made hight in the rear look higher than I expected. The shit looks the same or maybe slightly lower but negligible at best.

I did not install the washer. I honestly don't see the purpose it serves. I guess time will tell if its needed.

Bump stops don't affect ride height... the car should be at least 1/2" to 1" off the bump stop at static ride height.

Bump stops shouldn't have anything to do with the top mount either.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Bump stops don't affect ride height... the car should be at least 1/2" to 1" off the bump stop at static ride height.

Bump stops shouldn't have anything to do with the top mount either.

Is this true for the E90? E82s ride on their rear bump stops:

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...7&postcount=14

I've never verified our chassis for myself but it would explain why my rear bump stops were absolutely trashed at 100k km.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Is this true for the E90? E82s ride on their rear bump stops:

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...7&postcount=14

I've never verified our chassis for myself but it would explain why my rear bump stops were absolutely trashed at 100k km.

Yeah that pic shows the bump stop closer than I remember it being, but, it still isn't being compressed by any meaningful amount.

[juld0zer]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

I haven't had any additional noise in the back after installing these last weekend, only way it could be these is if somehow the metal sleeve for the upper lower was a few mm wider than the shaft, or if it was tightened down all the way. At least thats what I think

After a month of trying everything, I have come to the same conclusion. Do not tighten them all the way down as the bushes are meant to absorb some impact. By tightening fully down, they can no longer compress so effectively they become solid. I may have damaged the Monroe bushes by doing this as the top piece was mashed into the body.

I ended up slicing the Monroe bushes up to replicate the Dinan version but it still made noise. I don't have the tools required to make the upper disc though.

I ended up buying a set of Powerflex yellows and they also made noise too. Out of frustration I backed off the top nuts, then tightened them until there was no movement when i bounced on the trunk. The end result is the nyloc ring barely engages the first thread which I'm not too happy about. I might end up applying a little medium strength thread lock for long term peace of mind.

Certainly if you tighten the nut to spec, the top nut/disc will touch the sleeve. Just like the OE style mount. Unless my E87 has a different hole dimension in the body to an E82 or E90? I'm totally stumped but at least there is some conclusion.

[drawz]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

After a month of trying everything, I have come to the same conclusion. Do not tighten them all the way down as the bushes are meant to absorb some impact. By tightening fully down, they can no longer compress so effectively they become solid. I may have damaged the Monroe bushes by doing this as the top piece was mashed into the body.

I ended up slicing the Monroe bushes up to replicate the Dinan version but it still made noise. I don't have the tools required to make the upper disc though.

I ended up buying a set of Powerflex yellows and they also made noise too. Out of frustration I backed off the top nuts, then tightened them until there was no movement when i bounced on the trunk. The end result is the nyloc ring barely engages the first thread which I'm not too happy about. I might end up applying a little medium strength thread lock for long term peace of mind.

Certainly if you tighten the nut to spec, the top nut/disc will touch the sleeve. Just like the OE style mount. Unless my E87 has a different hole dimension in the body to an E82 or E90? I'm totally stumped but at least there is some conclusion.

Maybe you should try some new OEM mounts and see if the noise goes away. Something doesn't seem right here. The metal sleeve on the OE ones essentially prevents over-tightening because the nut bottoms out. I assume these and powerflex are the same.

[simpleM3]

Are you compressing the shock when tightening the top nut? If so don’t. I took the following steps when I reinstalled mine:

- Screw in, but keep loose, the 2 screws that secure the the bottom shock mount to the tray
- fully secure the bottom end of the shock to the bottom mount. Before you do this, the top portion should already be positioned into the body of the car
- using a floor jack, jack up the axel to the point right before the shock begins to compress. It is at this point that you want to tighten the top strut nut. When you remove the floor jack the strut should not move. If it does, it’s wrong.
- tighten the two screws for the bottom mount.
- done

Originally Posted by juld0zer

After a month of trying everything, I have come to the same conclusion. Do not tighten them all the way down as the bushes are meant to absorb some impact. By tightening fully down, they can no longer compress so effectively they become solid. I may have damaged the Monroe bushes by doing this as the top piece was mashed into the body.

I ended up slicing the Monroe bushes up to replicate the Dinan version but it still made noise. I don't have the tools required to make the upper disc though.

I ended up buying a set of Powerflex yellows and they also made noise too. Out of frustration I backed off the top nuts, then tightened them until there was no movement when i bounced on the trunk. The end result is the nyloc ring barely engages the first thread which I'm not too happy about. I might end up applying a little medium strength thread lock for long term peace of mind.

Certainly if you tighten the nut to spec, the top nut/disc will touch the sleeve. Just like the OE style mount. Unless my E87 has a different hole dimension in the body to an E82 or E90? I'm totally stumped but at least there is some conclusion.

[colorado.e9x]

Aren't you supposed to tighten them to finger tight while the car lifted up, then once you lower it back to the ground you torque it to OE spec? That's what I've done, and I have zero complaints. No noise and the rear feels planted

[simpleM3]

Yes, but most DIYers don’t have ramps which would be required to get to the bottom nut, so I assume they may have to tighten that one to specs and finger tighten the top until back on the ground.

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Aren't you supposed to tighten them to finger tight while the car lifted up, then once you lower it back to the ground you torque it to OE spec? That's what I've done, and I have zero complaints. No noise and the rear feels planted

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

Yes, but most DIYers don’t have ramps which would be required to get to the bottom nut, so I assume they may have to tighten that one to specs and finger tighten the top until back on the ground.

That's what wooden planks are for I don't use ramps for mine, they're too steep

[S65Hunter]

I didnt feel like doing all that....I just used my air impact and tightend it until I felt comfortable. Then once on the ground, I was able to tighten it up a lil more. I have no rugrats.