[K9Leader]

I spent the day doing the 3-stage intake upgrade - just about done, still need to put the airbox back in, and waiting to get the ECU back from Turner, so it won't be done until later in the week.

However, while doing the work I found that the rear two spark plug compartments and the one with wiring in between them were filled with water. I wet-vacced them out and they will dry but I need to keep this from happening again.

The engine cover has been off the car for several months - after taking it off a couple of times I decided to leave it off for a while. Does this cover help in protecting the engine from water? Is the problem due just to leaving the cover off or does this mean there is some other problem letting water in? These are the rear of the engine and are under the cowl so there may be some area of failure allowing in the water.



Anyway, anyone with experience with this or otherwise knowledgeable please chime in.

-K9Leader

Update: Well, this may be the problem - the lip of the cowl that the rubber strip fits on appears to have had a section cut out of it. The edges are jagged or uneven so it does not appear this cutout is supposed to be there. I did not do it so must have been a previous owner. Is there a reason someone might do this - to be able to reach something without having to remove the entire cowl? Looking at it again, I wonder if it was to get the valve cover off for gasket replacement - if I recall what I read about removing the valve cover, it is a really tight fit in the back and it looks as though this cut is exactly the size of the top part of the valve cover.

[nsjames]

it is cosmeitc/NVH.

everything is sealed connectors.

I've pressure washed my bare n52 with no ill effect.

[ctuna]

Are you sure its water an not coolant.
I could see how there might be condensation under
the hood but it looks like the hood lid insulation would
prevent that.

Yeah the seal being gone is no good.
It also allows air flow from the engine to go into
the cabin.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Are you sure its water an not coolant.
I could see how there might be condensation under
the hood but it looks like the hood lid insulation would
prevent that.

Yeah the seal being gone is no good.
It also allows air flow from the engine to go into
the cabin.

Yes, it was water. I'm going to have to fabricate a fix. Probably also need to put the engine cover back on for additional protection - it's just such a pain to have to take off every time I need to check something or work on something.

[_nwilton]

Water doesn't matter other than cosmetics. Everything should be sealed and if water gets somewhere it'll just find a problem that was going to come up someday anyway.

[rt7085]

I just did my valve cover gasket today. I can guarantee you the cowl was cut for the removal of the valve cover gasket. Not needed, as I got it out with some careful maneuvering. But I can see how some will get frustrated and resort these measures.

However, what I also noticed is that my old cover’s ignition ground stud in the rear was SEVERELY rusted. So bad that I was worried about breaking it trying to get it out. Fortunately no issue because I went about it carefully with some penetrating oil first. But I was wondering why this was so badly corroded. Your story seems to match. My cowl was not cut however and the engine cover was on all the time. It is also noteworthy that all the other fasteners were in decent condition. It was just that rear ground stud between sparks 4 and 5 that was really bad.

Perhaps some water testing to see what causes it?

[PhaseP]

I would put the engine cover back on. Long standing water will cause corrosion on metal parts that are in contact with the water.
One night I had my cabin air filter cover and the engine cover off the car with hood closed while it was raining. Next day I found water in those last two spark plug holes. And mine having magnesium valve cover ('06 build) had already started surface corrosion where water had been standing in those spark plug holes. Magnesium easily corrodes. Plastic valve cover won't corrode but the spark plug metal section may start to corrode if left sitting in standing water for long periods of time.

I had the cabin air filter cover off in addition to engine cover in that instance. The cabin air filter cover will direct away any splashing water drops from windshield to the side gutters. Not sure with the filter cover in place if water can find its way on top of the engine.

As per your cowl from your pictures, it was cut in that section as others in the thread already pointed out, for aiding in valve cover replacement. Which should not have been done, someone had "cut a corner" to save time.

If the rubber strip still holds and seals in that section you should be fine. If it is not, you may be getting some rain into the AC ducts there.
You can put things back together and then simulate rain with a garden hose to see if any water makes ends up where it shouldn't, and then take action base on that.

[robthewrench]

Fix that cowl and the water will not run into the spark plug holes. Whoever did that was a hack.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by nsjames

it is cosmeitc/NVH.

everything is sealed connectors.

I've pressure washed my bare n52 with no ill effect.

Not 100% true... the BMW procedures say the cover is there to add additional protection from water ingress. In this case if he had the cover IMO water wouldn't even be able to get into the plug socket.

It also says to have the cover on if performing engine cleaning.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Not 100% true... the BMW procedures say the cover is there to add additional protection from water ingress. In this case if he had the cover IMO water wouldn't even be able to get into the plug socket.

It also says to have the cover on if performing engine cleaning.

I had already planned to put the cover back on after doing the intake. I think I have done all the engine work I need to for a while (Valvetronic motor gasket, spark plugs/ignition coils, OFHG, cleaned Vanos), so it can go back on. I am still working on fabricating a fix for the cut out on the cowl as that is the exact spot to which water is channeled.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

I had already planned to put the cover back on after doing the intake. I think I have done all the engine work I need to for a while (Valvetronic motor gasket, spark plugs/ignition coils, OFHG, cleaned Vanos), so it can go back on. I am still working on fabricating a fix for the cut out on the cowl as that is the exact spot to which water is channeled.

I was about to write can't you just buy a new seal but wow seems like it's plastic and the person literally cut the plastic? Damn haha.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by robthewrench

Fix that cowl and the water will not run into the spark plug holes. Whoever did that was a hack.

this.
no reason to hack the car to pull the valve cover unless you suck.

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Not 100% true... the BMW procedures say the cover is there to add additional protection from water ingress. In this case if he had the cover IMO water wouldn't even be able to get into the plug socket.

It also says to have the cover on if performing engine cleaning.

I also assume the bmw procedure was written for the lowest common denominator.

although the bare studs fo rthe ignition grounds were something I hadn't thought of. a bit of corrosionx

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I was about to write can't you just buy a new seal but wow seems like it's plastic and the person literally cut the plastic? Damn haha.

Actually, there's two layers that they cut through - the surface, thinner layer that can be easily replaced (part is about $175) and a a much thicker layer that seems more structural. I'm just trying to work out a fix for the thin, surface layer to direct water away from that area. I've got a piece of aluminum flashing cut and shaped and need to decide how to affix it.

[K9Leader]

Here is the fix - not pretty but I think it will do the job. I used aluminum flashing leftover from our last roofing job. Cut it to about 1/2 longer on either end (so 1 inch total) than the cutout. Folded it over and bent it to the approximate curve. I though about silicone to affix it/provide waterproofing but decided to try hot glue, which will get sufficiently hard and is waterproof and was easy to shape with popsicle stick. Someone with a 3D printer could do a better job.

Again, not pretty but it will be covered by the rubber gasket strip (I ordered a new one from FCP as the old one is pretty beat up looking) and the cowl tray thingy that spans across. I will also put the engine cover on as an additional prophylactic.

Unfortunately, this type of corner-cutting hack job is more widespread - mine spent its life in Southeastern PA and (now) Delaware. From the CarFax and from some other service records I was able to dig up, most routine maintenance by the two previous owners was at dealerships in Lancaster and Reading. When faced with the cost of a dealership valve cover gasket job, the PO probably had it done by some guy his brother-in-law knows from softball league. Or he did it himself. Either way, someone is a hack and shouldn't be allowed to work on anything newer than a 1982 Ford Escort.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

Unfortunately, this type of corner-cutting hack job is more widespread

Yeap, I had seen posts/diys even in this forum doing that for valve cover replacement.
Some examples:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...32&postcount=2

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...71&postcount=2

There is also a valve cover bolt tightening sequence picture someone made for N54 that is being shared, which has the sequence completely opposite. For plates that are not circular, you start inside and middle first and then go in a spiral pattern ending at most far outside corners. This way as the plate compresses by tightening of the bolts, its stretch is spread from inside towards outside evenly.

[juld0zer]

Most of the time you just need to remove a section of the rubber seal to give more room to get the cover out/in. The rest is acrobatics and creativity and nobody should be butchering stuff like that.

Could it also be due to excessive washing of the engine bay? Either by hose or pressure cleaning. A lot of people do overlook the importance of that rubber seal and it often gets pinched when refitting the gutter

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Y which has the sequence completely opposite. For plates that are not circular, you start inside and middle first and then go in a spiral pattern ending at most far outside corners. This way as the plate compresses by tightening of the bolts, its stretch is spread from inside towards outside evenly.

This is why BMW TIS (via ISTAD or on https://www.newtis.info/ ) is fantastic. I always refer to actual BMW dealer servicing manuals along with DIY to make sure it's correct.

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Yeap, I had seen posts/diys even in this forum doing that for valve cover replacement.
Some examples:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...32&postcount=2

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...71&postcount=2

...

Would be easier to literally remove the bolts directly under where the cuts were made; the plastics could then be lifted to give the extra bit clearance needed to get the cover in & out.

[mecheng77]

I did a test a few months ago because I wanted to leave my cover off but if you put a garden hose below the hvac filter water leaked past the rubber seal so I put my engine cover back on