[rsyed07]

Some guy bought a DCT 335IS and converted it to a 6spd manual . To each their own but why go one step backwards? DCT is one of the unique aspects of 335IS in addition to having a N54 while keeping the LCI looks. Don't get me wrong I love banging through gears in a manual but in this case wouldn't it have been easier to just buy a manual N54 to begin with?

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by rsyed07

Some guy bought a DCT 335IS and converted it to a 6spd manual . To each their own but why go one step backwards? DCT is one of the unique aspects of 335IS in addition to having a N54 while keeping the LCI looks. Don't get me wrong I love banging through gears in a manual but in this case wouldn't it have been easier to just buy a manual N54 to begin with?

Going from DCT to a manual is a step forward in my book.

But yes I don't know why didn't buy 335is with manual first. I guess it's a DIY project.

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by rsyed07

Some guy bought a DCT 335IS and converted it to a 6spd manual . To each their own but why go one step backwards? DCT is one of the unique aspects of 335IS in addition to having a N54 while keeping the LCI looks. Don't get me wrong I love banging through gears in a manual but in this case wouldn't it have been easier to just buy a manual N54 to begin with?

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Going from DCT to a manual is a step forward in my book.

But yes I don't know why didn't buy 335is with manual first. I guess it's a DIY project.

I know him. I did the coding for him when he first went with a M3 DCT GWS and M3 GTS software swap. I just did the coding for his DCT to manual conversion. He got bored with the car. Was going to sell it, then decided to go manual and hang on to it. I'm guessing selling off the M3 pieces and DCT trans more than covered the manual pieces. He already had the M3 drivetrain so the gearing was already there. Not my cup of tea but as long as he's happy...

[rsyed07]

A few tips for those who are looking to upgrade their stock FMIC or 5" FMIC to 7" versions that you will not find on the internet or on any DIYs since the IS differs slightly with additional cooling lines, different front bumper and lining, and the higher wattage fan. Add these tips to whatever DIY guide/video you are using.

1) It's going to be a hell lot easier if you take of the bumper. I kept mine one because I was lazy but managed.

2) You will have to either take out the electric 850w fan or slide it up higher to attach the silicone coupler on the LCP side. In order to do so there are radiator hoses clipped onto the fan and the stock cold side lower charge pipe is attached to it. Use some force on the LCP to knock it off the tab if you are replacing the LCP which I recommend anyway. Be gentle when lifting the fan up. A 2nd helper will make it easier hen trying to fish the new LCP into place through a maze of coolant hoses on the cold side.

3) Make sure the t-clamp bolts don't rub into the DCT heat exchanger if you have a DCT. If it does dremel a bit off. Don't apply excess pressure to any coolant hose attachments as they may drip coolant or can snap from being brittle.

4) Use wrenches with a combination rotating ratchet as well as deep sockets, makes tightening the 10mm t-bolts clamps a lot easier in the hard to reach small areas.

5) Cut/dremel everything (fins, bottom plate) out until all you see is the brake ducts. Some trimming/shaving off on the brown stock IC mounting brackets to make it flush are required too depending on which 7" IC you get. I got the VRSF 7" HD so that came in the way. Don't trim off a pointy looking thing near the driver side brake duct , I believe that's your ambient air temp sensor.

6) Use some motor oil to lube up the couplers, makes the IC ends slide in easier. Do not use grease as grease stays and attracts debris. Unlike grease the motor oil dries up after 10 minutes. If you are alone, use a floor jack to help keep the IC in place when trying to adjust them into the couplers and if you are alone you will have to wrestle with the IC when angling it into place as the flexible flaps from the fender liner come in the way.

That is most of it, I may add/edit this if something comes up. Other than that make sure everything is nice and tight. Enjoy the lower IATs!

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by rsyed07

A few tips for those who are looking to upgrade their stock FMIC or 5" FMIC to 7" versions that you will not find on the internet or on any DIYs since the IS differs slightly with additional cooling lines and the higher wattage fan. Add these tips to whatever DIY guide/video you are using.

1) It's going to be a hell lot easier if you take of the bumper. I kept mine one because I was lazy but managed.

2) You will have to either take out the electric 850w fan or slide it up higher to attach the silicone coupler on the LCP side. In order to do so there are radiator hoses clipped onto the fan and the stock cold side lower charge pipe is attached to it. Use some force on the LCP to knock it off the tab if you are replacing the LCP which I recommend anyway. Be gentle when lifting the fan up. A 2nd helper will make it easier hen trying to fish the new LCP into place through a maze of coolant hoses on the cold side.

3) Make sure the t-clamp bolts don't rub into the DCT heat exchanger if you have a DCT. If it does dremel a bit off. Don't apply excess pressure to any coolant hose attachments as they may drip coolant or can snap from being brittle.

4) Use wrenches with a combination rotating ratchet as well as deep sockets, makes tightening the 10mm t-bolts clamps a lot easier in the hard to reach small areas.

5) Cut/dremel everything (fins, bottom plate) out until all you see is the brake ducts. Some trimming/shaving off on the brown stock IC mounting brackets to make it flush are required too depending on which 7" IC you get. I got the VRSF 7" HD so that came in the way. Don't trim off a pointy looking thing near the driver side brake duct , I believe that's your ambient air temp sensor.

6) Use some motor oil to lube up the couplers, makes the IC ends slide in easier. Do not use grease as grease stays and attracts debris. Unlike grease the motor oil dries up after 10 minutes. If you are alone, use a floor jack to help keep the IC in place when trying to adjust them into the couplers and if you are alone you will have to wrestle with the IC when angling it into place as the flexible flaps from the fender liner come in the way.

That is most of it, I may add/edit this if something comes up. Other than that make sure everything is nice and tight. Enjoy the lower IATs!

Thanks. I will most likely be getting one once winter is over.

I think for lube you can also use silicone spray lube. That's what I did for the chargepipe and works fantastically well.

[b92]

Originally Posted by rsyed07

A few tips for those who are looking to upgrade their stock FMIC or 5" FMIC to 7" versions that you will not find on the internet or on any DIYs since the IS differs slightly with additional cooling lines, different front bumper and lining, and the higher wattage fan. Add these tips to whatever DIY guide/video you are using.

1) It's going to be a hell lot easier if you take of the bumper. I kept mine one because I was lazy but managed.

2) You will have to either take out the electric 850w fan or slide it up higher to attach the silicone coupler on the LCP side. In order to do so there are radiator hoses clipped onto the fan and the stock cold side lower charge pipe is attached to it. Use some force on the LCP to knock it off the tab if you are replacing the LCP which I recommend anyway. Be gentle when lifting the fan up. A 2nd helper will make it easier hen trying to fish the new LCP into place through a maze of coolant hoses on the cold side.

3) Make sure the t-clamp bolts don't rub into the DCT heat exchanger if you have a DCT. If it does dremel a bit off. Don't apply excess pressure to any coolant hose attachments as they may drip coolant or can snap from being brittle.

4) Use wrenches with a combination rotating ratchet as well as deep sockets, makes tightening the 10mm t-bolts clamps a lot easier in the hard to reach small areas.

5) Cut/dremel everything (fins, bottom plate) out until all you see is the brake ducts. Some trimming/shaving off on the brown stock IC mounting brackets to make it flush are required too depending on which 7" IC you get. I got the VRSF 7" HD so that came in the way. Don't trim off a pointy looking thing near the driver side brake duct , I believe that's your ambient air temp sensor.

6) Use some motor oil to lube up the couplers, makes the IC ends slide in easier. Do not use grease as grease stays and attracts debris. Unlike grease the motor oil dries up after 10 minutes. If you are alone, use a floor jack to help keep the IC in place when trying to adjust them into the couplers and if you are alone you will have to wrestle with the IC when angling it into place as the flexible flaps from the fender liner come in the way.

That is most of it, I may add/edit this if something comes up. Other than that make sure everything is nice and tight. Enjoy the lower IATs!

I installed a 7" VRSF on both N54 pre-LCI and 335is, I didn't notice much difference between the two installs. Only difference was the trimming, I felt that I had to trim more off from the 335is but it might just because of the M-Sport bumper, which my pre-LCI didn't have.

From my experiences, removing the bumper makes things 10x easier. It sounds like more work but removing/installing the bumper is an easy task, especially if you don't have headlight washers!

I did not run into any issues with the fan that I can remember, maybe that's an issue related to only the DCT models? I also didn't use any motor oil for attaching the IC to the couplers, although I do see the benefit. Attaching the IC to the couplers isn't a simple 'just shove it in there' task, but rather applying force over a short period of time as the IC slowly slides farther and farther in.

[rsyed07]

Originally Posted by b92

I installed a 7" VRSF on both N54 pre-LCI and 335is, I didn't notice much difference between the two installs. Only difference was the trimming, I felt that I had to trim more off from the 335is but it might just because of the M-Sport bumper, which my pre-LCI didn't have.

From my experiences, removing the bumper makes things 10x easier. It sounds like more work but removing/installing the bumper is an easy task, especially if you don't have headlight washers!

I did not run into any issues with the fan that I can remember, maybe that's an issue related to only the DCT models? I also didn't use any motor oil for attaching the IC to the couplers, although I do see the benefit. Attaching the IC to the couplers isn't a simple 'just shove it in there' task, but rather applying force over a short period of time as the IC slowly slides farther and farther in.

Yes with the 6MT you've got a bit more room since there's no transmission heat exchanger. It's docked to the fan via a T20 torx (I think its that size lol) screw on the bottom driver side corner of the fan. My car has headlight washers and since most of the DIYs I read through did not require removal of the bumper I chose to go that route. But if I had to do it again bumper removal is crucial.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by b92

. Attaching the IC to the couplers isn't a simple 'just shove it in there' task, but rather applying force over a short period of time as the IC slowly slides farther and farther in.

+1 very true.

When I did OFHG job I drained my rad so took out inter cooler.

Putting it back in, the hot side was such a pain. Did 2 test drives after thinking it was fine and it kept popping back out.

I took out the greenish O ring, cleaned it a bit and after that it works pretty good. You definitely have to pull and push into it quite hard.

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by rsyed07

A few tips for those who are looking to upgrade their stock FMIC or 5" FMIC to 7" versions that you will not find on the internet or on any DIYs since the IS differs slightly with additional cooling lines, different front bumper and lining, and the higher wattage fan. Add these tips to whatever DIY guide/video you are using.

1) It's going to be a hell lot easier if you take of the bumper. I kept mine one because I was lazy but managed.

2) You will have to either take out the electric 850w fan or slide it up higher to attach the silicone coupler on the LCP side. In order to do so there are radiator hoses clipped onto the fan and the stock cold side lower charge pipe is attached to it. Use some force on the LCP to knock it off the tab if you are replacing the LCP which I recommend anyway. Be gentle when lifting the fan up. A 2nd helper will make it easier hen trying to fish the new LCP into place through a maze of coolant hoses on the cold side.

3) Make sure the t-clamp bolts don't rub into the DCT heat exchanger if you have a DCT. If it does dremel a bit off. Don't apply excess pressure to any coolant hose attachments as they may drip coolant or can snap from being brittle.

4) Use wrenches with a combination rotating ratchet as well as deep sockets, makes tightening the 10mm t-bolts clamps a lot easier in the hard to reach small areas.

5) Cut/dremel everything (fins, bottom plate) out until all you see is the brake ducts. Some trimming/shaving off on the brown stock IC mounting brackets to make it flush are required too depending on which 7" IC you get. I got the VRSF 7" HD so that came in the way. Don't trim off a pointy looking thing near the driver side brake duct , I believe that's your ambient air temp sensor.

6) Use some motor oil to lube up the couplers, makes the IC ends slide in easier. Do not use grease as grease stays and attracts debris. Unlike grease the motor oil dries up after 10 minutes. If you are alone, use a floor jack to help keep the IC in place when trying to adjust them into the couplers and if you are alone you will have to wrestle with the IC when angling it into place as the flexible flaps from the fender liner come in the way.

That is most of it, I may add/edit this if something comes up. Other than that make sure everything is nice and tight. Enjoy the lower IATs!

Removing the bumper is a no-brainer. The amount of time saved doing the install with it off is far greater than the five minutes it takes to remove (no HL washers).

I've never needed to move/remove the fan for a IC install. I don't remember that connection being particularly difficult to get to, but again, another instance of a good place for a positive time offset if so inclined. I do remember getting original LCP out being a huge PITA.

I use a spray bottle of soapy water for silicone connections. Zero mess and zero chance of attracting dirt.

[Searay55555]

Hi Fellow “is” Fanatics,

Have any of you heard of this happening? After driving for about 20 minutes, my car gives me a warning saying that the car had overheated and it needs to be shut down. Then it goes into limp mode even if doing 80 on the freeway. I look at the temp gauge and it’s at about 40-45%, so I know the engine isn’t too hot. When this happens, I shut the car off and turn it back on and it seems to reset - at least for another 20 minutes or so. Something else I find that’s odd: the fan clutch seems to engage about every 10-15 seconds, but only stays engaged for a couple seconds. So, it’s going on and off constantly from the minute I start the car - and it’s cool here now, like 33 degrees this morning. It’s throwing a code, and it reads: P2098 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2. Weird! To me, this sounds like an unrelated problem.

I have 71,000 miles on my ‘12 335is. Any ideas?

Thanks, Kevin

[b92]

Originally Posted by Searay55555

Hi Fellow “is” Fanatics,

Have any of you heard of this happening? After driving for about 20 minutes, my car gives me a warning saying that the car had overheated and it needs to be shut down. Then it goes into limp mode even if doing 80 on the freeway. I look at the temp gauge and it’s at about 40-45%, so I know the engine isn’t too hot. When this happens, I shut the car off and turn it back on and it seems to reset - at least for another 20 minutes or so. Something else I find that’s odd: the fan clutch seems to engage about every 10-15 seconds, but only stays engaged for a couple seconds. So, it’s going on and off constantly from the minute I start the car - and it’s cool here now, like 33 degrees this morning. It’s throwing a code, and it reads: P2098 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2. Weird! To me, this sounds like an unrelated problem.

I have 71,000 miles on my ‘12 335is. Any ideas?

Thanks, Kevin

Sounds like either your waterpump or coolant thermostat is on the fritz, these are both prone to failure around 50-80k miles. I would get both replaced ASAP before you're left stranded, you should consider yourself lucky they didn't just die on you! Many of us on the forum have been in that tow truck..

[rsyed07]

The temperature gauge your are seeing is the temperature of the oil not the engine. To access the engine coolant temperature you will need to do go into the hidden OBDII menu and do this

.


Or get a android tablet that supports OTG, a pre-tested K+DCAN cable, and download the MHD app. It offers free code reading that goes beyond the generic code readers at autozone/advance auto and a in-app purchase that allows you to monitor your coolant temperature and other readings.

I think your electric water pump is on its way out. The mileage you are at is within the range of when N54 water pumps go bad. I wouldn't risk driving it until you can pin point whats wrong.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

Removing the bumper is a no-brainer. The amount of time saved doing the install with it off is far greater than the five minutes it takes to remove (no HL washers).

I've never needed to move/remove the fan for a IC install. I don't remember that connection being particularly difficult to get to, but again, another instance of a good place for a positive time offset if so inclined. I do remember getting original LCP out being a huge PITA.

I use a spray bottle of soapy water for silicone connections. Zero mess and zero chance of attracting dirt.

What is so bad with HL washers. I thought it was like 1 min per trim piece to remove?

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

What is so bad with HL washers. I thought it was like 1 min per trim piece to remove?

I dont have the washers so had no idea what was involved. I was just speaking to my bumper. I guess its 7 minutes with the washers, lol.

[b92]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

I dont have the washers so had no idea what was involved. I was just speaking to my bumper. I guess its 7 minutes with the washers, lol.

Headlight washers aren't bad, they just make lining up/reinstalling the bumper a bit more difficult to do solo. Got to be careful to not stretch the headlight washer springs when installing.

[Searay55555]

Originally Posted by rsyed07

The temperature gauge your are seeing is the temperature of the oil not the engine. To access the engine coolant temperature you will need to do go into the hidden OBDII menu and do this

.


Or get a android tablet that supports OTG, a pre-tested K+DCAN cable, and download the MHD app. It offers free code reading that goes beyond the generic code readers at autozone/advance auto and a in-app purchase that allows you to monitor your coolant temperature and other readings.

I think your electric water pump is on its way out. The mileage you are at is within the range of when N54 water pumps go bad. I wouldn't risk driving it until you can pin point whats wrong.

Thanks a lot for the pointers! I was able to get into the hidden menu. I watched the coolant temp go from 40 degrees C to 93 degrees, and then the thermostat opened and it bounced around in the 84-92 degrees range. Then, like clockwork it started rising dramatically, and fast, to 120 degrees in about 20 seconds, and then the car shut down. I turned it off and right back on again, and the coolant reading was 84 degrees. WHAT?

I drove home another 5-10 minutes and it was fine - in the 84-90 degree range. I don't get it. Does it sound like the water pump is shutting down at around 25 minutes? And I still don't get why the fan clutch is engaging all the time, even from the start when the car is ice cold.

Lost here...

Kevin

[SC335is]

New pics after a cars and coffee meet.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Hey did you guys get the full black kidneys or kept the original half black half silver grills?

I'm debating on if I should buy a new set of black grills or not.

[rsyed07]

Neither, I have a carbon fiber design one to match the spoiler. But I've had the black one before too.

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Hey did you guys get the full black kidneys or kept the original half black half silver grills?

I'm debating on if I should buy a new set of black grills or not.

I went with a set of the gloss black BMW Performance grills just recently. The originals were getting a bit faded and I think these go well with LeMans Blue.

[b92]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Hey did you guys get the full black kidneys or kept the original half black half silver grills?

I'm debating on if I should buy a new set of black grills or not.

I went full black, I think it looks better with the black window trim & tint. The 'exclusive' 335is grille with the chrome slats isn't anything special, kind of a cheap differentiator IMO.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Haha alright guys I think I'll black them out. I am also rocking a blacked out look on my car. Wheels, emblems, trim and turn signal markers are all black right now.

Either buy an actual set of I'll try plasti dip the slats, although I think it might not look that good dipped.

Yeah kind of strange should have just made it all black instead of that odd half black and half silver combo.