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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: OEM LED (LCI) License Plate Light Retrofit



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      01-28-2012, 07:39 PM   #1
yakev724
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DIY: OEM LED (LCI) License Plate Light Retrofit

First off big thanks to BenAnd from 5 series forums and xxxjecxxx + DimSum (coding info). This DIY wouldn't have been possible without them.

Parts

(Prices are from Tischer BMW--getbmwparts.com)
2x 63267193293 - $13.15 ea
4x 61130005197 - $1.40 ea
4x 61130007452 - $1.74 ea
2x 61136925634 - $1.40 ea

Total (exc. shipping) - $41.66

Shrink Tubing - 3/32" & 3/16" is what I used, Home Depot for ~$2 a bag. I'm sure it'll shrink with a hot hair dryer, though I used a heat gun ($20 at Ace, good investment). I guess you can use electrical tape, though I don't recommend it.

*Soldering isn't required for this to work, especially if you're sealing the connections with shrink tubing. I recommend you do it. If you don't have supplies or don't know how to solder, give it to someone who does, it'll take them 5 mins max.

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Assembly


1 - Cut and Strip

Try and aim for equal lengths here. Specific length isn't important.

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2 - Solder

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3 - Cut + Position Shrink Tubing

You don't want to cover too much of the large male pins. The main reason they need to be covered is to insulate the largest diameter 'rings' as they'll short the connection if they aren't insulated. I covered ~2mm too much (you want to position it a bit further up from the pin than I did).

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4 - Apply Heat

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5 - Cut + Position Shrink Tubing

Here you want to pair the 2 shortest and 2 longest pieces. Also, line up the large male ends evenly, it's OK if the female ends are a bit uneven; their wires are more flexible and will be secured in the plastic connectors.

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6 - Apply Heat

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7 - Insert Pins into Connectors

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8 - Snap Connectors into Lights

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Installation


1 - Remove Old Lights

To remove, you need to insert a flathead into the small opening, and push the entire light towards the right (don't try to pry it off). It should move several mm, after which the side with the opening will free up and may be pulled away from the surface (down out of the trunk). Next you should be able to pull it left/right until it is completely out. Disconnect the electrical connector. *I'll try and add some arrows to the photos to make it a bit more clear. Need to get some iPhoto first

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2 - Install New Lights

Just push the large male pins into the car's connector until it's securely held in and pulling it back has no effect. In my case, the correct polarity was wire 1 of the harness (labeled on blue plastic connector) -> brown wire of car's connector, same for both lights. Not a big deal if you get it wrong, just pull them out and rearrange.

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Physical installation is reverse of removal. You should by now notice that there's a metal spring towards the right of the light assembly which you need to compress to get the left side flush with the trunk surface, after which it'll slide left by a few mm and lock in place.

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Error Removal

This procedure will trigger a bulb-out error on your dash. There are 2 ways (I know of) to get rid of it. The one I recommend is to have the bulb-check procedure (for the lic. plate lights only!) coded out. The 2 values (both in FRM/NFRM) which need to be coded are:

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_KZL

WARMUEBERWACHUNG_KZL

Set both to nicht_aktiv and you're set!


**The second method involves wiring a small halogen bulb (24V 2W) parallel to the LED light (as pictured below). Don't do this--just get it coded, you can learn to code in the coding section.

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Last edited by yakev724; 02-08-2012 at 11:59 PM..
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      01-28-2012, 08:59 PM   #2
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Damn good write up man. Congrats w the new lights
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      01-29-2012, 11:00 AM   #3
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Thx man. I've had these for a few months, just been too lazy to do the install.

Now to find an LCI trunk to match them...
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      01-30-2012, 10:58 PM   #4
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bravo. bravo.
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      01-31-2012, 12:22 AM   #5
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props especially the wiring in the Bulb idea lol
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      01-31-2012, 12:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iFab View Post
props especially the wiring in the Bulb idea lol
That was BenAnd's idea (and his 2 photos). Don't think coding was an option back then.
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      01-31-2012, 07:53 PM   #7
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Nice job!

Any particular reason why you went this route instead of purchasing housing replacements from a vendor?
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      02-02-2012, 12:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmertt View Post
Nice job!

Any particular reason why you went this route instead of purchasing housing replacements from a vendor?
I picked the lights up from a member a while ago for relatively cheap, and do a bunch of wiring so had the pins/wires on hand.

I also feel that some of the aftermarket pieces are too bright, though I'm sure there are good products out there (havent looked into it tbh).
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      02-06-2012, 06:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yakev724 View Post
I picked the lights up from a member a while ago for relatively cheap, and do a bunch of wiring so had the pins/wires on hand.

I also feel that some of the aftermarket pieces are too bright, though I'm sure there are good products out there (havent looked into it tbh).
Thanks. I think I will be doing this soon. I also noticed the aftermarket alternatives were too bright. Quality also seems hit or miss as I've seen posts regarding the housings melting.

In regard to the coding, do you know if there is a way to just disable the check on the license plate LEDs? I'd hate to disable the check for all lights.
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      02-07-2012, 04:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmertt View Post
Thanks. I think I will be doing this soon. I also noticed the aftermarket alternatives were too bright. Quality also seems hit or miss as I've seen posts regarding the housings melting.

In regard to the coding, do you know if there is a way to just disable the check on the license plate LEDs? I'd hate to disable the check for all lights.
The 2 lines that need to be coded are for the license plate lights only. Each light has a 'cold' and 'warm' bulb check, hence the 2 lines.

Set both to nicht_aktiv

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_KZL

WARMUEBERWACHUNG_KZL
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      02-15-2012, 11:05 PM   #11
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I understand how all of this works but the coding process, can I code it myself or do you need a special device and something that I would have to take my car into the dealer for?

Thanks
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      02-16-2012, 06:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oaks88 View Post
I understand how all of this works but the coding process, can I code it myself or do you need a special device and something that I would have to take my car into the dealer for?

Thanks
To code yourself, you'll need to purchase a $90 cable and spend a few hours learning the process (refer to Coding section, specifically 'Coding Success' thread).

There are forum members which offer this service free for locals, and there are also shops which have the capability. Program used is called NCS Expert.
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      04-25-2012, 08:52 PM   #13
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Forgot to update this thread...I did this last month and this DIY was perfect. Nothing is better than the OEM look IMO. Thanks again.
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      04-26-2012, 03:38 PM   #14
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Instead of a halogen bulb could you solder in a diode + capacitor of some sort?
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      04-26-2012, 04:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmertt View Post
Forgot to update this thread...I did this last month and this DIY was perfect. Nothing is better than the OEM look IMO. Thanks again.
Good to hear!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent11br View Post
Instead of a halogen bulb could you solder in a diode + capacitor of some sort?
I'm sure you could solder in resistors. Not sure of the current that runs through it but obviously you want one large enough so that it doesn't get hot.

Don't do this. Just have the bulb check coded out. I'm almost positive that there's someone local to you (wherever you are in the world) that'll do it in 5 mins max. Not worth having hot wires inside body panels.

Last edited by yakev724; 04-26-2012 at 04:28 PM..
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      02-21-2013, 08:25 AM   #16
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Best Write-up Ever!

This tutorial should be a model on which every guide/tutorial/ is written.
Great job!

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      03-05-2017, 02:40 PM   #17
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How are you guys doing this conversion nowadays ? Apparently you cannot purchase the little wires/pins separately anymore and must purchase a kit which costs much more than the prices listed here

Sounds like the best way would be to purchase from a wrecked vehicle
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      03-21-2018, 06:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christoepurrr View Post
How are you guys doing this conversion nowadays ? Apparently you cannot purchase the little wires/pins separately anymore and must purchase a kit which costs much more than the prices listed here

Sounds like the best way would be to purchase from a wrecked vehicle
Better late than never with the reply huh!

I'm desperately trying to source these ready-made little adapter cables but they are unbelievably hard to find...

Has anyone else come across these?
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      03-21-2018, 07:01 PM   #19
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Here is what I did, hope it helps out some of you who are looking for answers.

I bought the Carly app on my iPhone and purchased the adapter. I then coded out the license plate bulb checks.

Buy this kit: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...132360043~oeb/ (2 of them)

Cut the old connector off the existing wires and use a Molex crimper (https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1E2P1M...pg_640x640.jpg) to crimp the new smaller pins on, then insert into the newer small connector. Hope this helps!
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      07-11-2018, 07:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndOfAnEra View Post
Here is what I did, hope it helps out some of you who are looking for answers.

I bought the Carly app on my iPhone and purchased the adapter. I then coded out the license plate bulb checks.

Buy this kit: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...132360043~oeb/ (2 of them)

Cut the old connector off the existing wires and use a Molex crimper (https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1E2P1M...pg_640x640.jpg) to crimp the new smaller pins on, then insert into the newer small connector. Hope this helps!
Good idea.
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      11-29-2018, 10:17 AM   #21
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For anyone still interested in this:

I just bought a set of 10 connectors, with the metal molex crimp connectors, for pretty cheap. Shipping will take 12-20 days, but if anyone is still interested, assuming they are the correct connectors and I can confirm they fit the LED lights (OEM lights), I'll have 4 sets of 2 connectors and molex crimp pieces, for sale, for $5 each including shipping. All you will have to do is get some leads of wire, solder/crimp them to the molex, and then solder or connect them somehow to your car's existing wiring. My plan is to just cut my existing plugs off, and then solder new wire leads with the new connectors on them. I don't have any reason to ever need the old ones again, but I will keep them around just in case...if that event I'll just cut the new ones off and solder the old ones on.
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      11-29-2018, 01:46 PM   #22
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I cut off the connectors on my E70 X5M and soldered the wires directly that lead to the lights and the green connectors. Coded the error out with Carly. Thanks for posting this DIY.
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