[Chard]

Hi all,

I've read a few posts regarding the recall for the power cable to the fusebox, however, I think my issue might be different although the symptoms are the same.

Car: 2006 330i, 32k miles

Issue: car is completely dead. No electronics whatsoever, can't even take the key out of the slot.

Temp solution 1: connect an emergency jumper box to the + and - in the engine bay and jump the car.

Temp solution 2: wiggle the wires that lead to the battery power distribution box, take notice that trunk lights turn on and electronics work (connection is made) and car can start.

It seems the problem is intermittent, but becoming more frequent. The car never dies while running, just can't start it once it's turned off. The problem always starts when hitting the Start button. Electronics are on when unlocking the car and sticking the key in. When hitting Start, it seems like the electrical connection disconnects completely and everything is shut off (hence stuck key).

What I want to know is, how does the power distribution box work?
When it fails, does it work intermittently or once it's dead, it's dead?

Thanks in advance!

[bizzleb109]

I had this problem my mechanic took the fuse box out cut the power cable soldered power cable to fuse box and 're soldered where positive was cut have not had any issues for last year

[Chard]

Originally Posted by bizzleb109

I had this problem my mechanic took the fuse box out cut the power cable soldered power cable to fuse box and 're soldered where positive was cut have not had any issues for last year

Thanks for the reply. I read about this issue on 07-11 cars, however my car is an 06. I am also not sure if the cause is the same since the car seems to react to tapping the power distribution box in the trunk, not by fiddling with anything at the fuse box in the glove compartment.

This leads me to think something is wrong with the power distribution box. How do you know if the box is starting to fail/failing?

[ctuna]

The battery distribution block is just a bunch of fuses.
You should be able to check for battery voltage at the outputs.
The BST could be damaged that would cut voltage to the Engine
and starter.
Read the following pdf for a total explanation.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja

Also some people have had luck disconnecting the IBS .

Always make sure you have a good battery low battery problems can drive you crazy due to the IBS.
Maybe the salty air is rusting things.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Chard

Car: 2006 330i, 32k miles
Issue: car is completely dead. No electronics whatsoever, can't even take the key out of the slot.

Temp solution 1: connect an emergency jumper box to the + and - in the engine bay and jump the car.

Temp solution 2: wiggle the wires that lead to the battery power distribution box, take notice that trunk lights turn on and electronics work (connection is made) and car can start.

It seems the problem is intermittent, but becoming more frequent. The car never dies while running, just can't start it once it's turned off. The problem always starts when hitting the Start button. Electronics are on when unlocking the car and sticking the key in. When hitting Start, it seems like the electrical connection disconnects completely and everything is shut off (hence stuck key).

How old is your battery?

It sounds like either:

(1) the battery has an internal fault where it fails as soon as you apply starter load to it (when you press the start button) even though it was "fully charged" by the alternator on the previous run; or

(2) the (+) terminal post is loose or perhaps the cable clamp to that post is loose (which would explain why wiggling the wires attached to the power distribution panel sometimes helps (or perhaps the cable attachments to the power panel are loose or corroded?)

To do your own "load test" with nothing more than a multimeter/voltmeter:

a) with engine off, measure battery voltage directly at the battery posts (NOT the connector clamps); it should be >12.2V (a good & fully charged battery should be more in the range of 12.6 - 12.8V); record that number

b) try to start; if dash & interior lighting go out, and/or starter does NOT crank engine, measure battery voltage again (probes contacting the battery posts directly); record that number;

If the battery voltage has dropped to 10.x or low 11.x volts, your battery has just failed a load test (internal fault) which can be confirmed by your local auto parts place with their dedicated load tester.

If the battery still has >12.2 volts at the posts, but the lights went out, check for loose battery terminal clamps, or a damaged terminal post itself, where the post rotates or rocks.

As ctuna described, there are NO electronics in the Power Distribution Panel, just fusible links (high-amp fuses) that are "all-or-nothing" in that they burn out like a fuse and do NOT reset like a circuit breaker, so that doesn't explain your issues, unless there is a loose connection to the panel.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[Pr0metheus]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

How old is your battery?

It sounds like either:

(1) the battery has an internal fault where it fails as soon as you apply starter load to it (when you press the start button) even though it was "fully charged" by the alternator on the previous run; or

(2) the (+) terminal post is loose or perhaps the cable clamp to that post is loose (which would explain why wiggling the wires attached to the power distribution panel sometimes helps (or perhaps the cable attachments to the power panel are loose or corroded?)

To do your own "load test" with nothing more than a multimeter/voltmeter:

a) with engine off, measure battery voltage directly at the battery posts (NOT the connector clamps); it should be >12.2V (a good & fully charged battery should be more in the range of 12.6 - 12.8V); record that number

b) try to start; if dash & interior lighting go out, and/or starter does NOT crank engine, measure battery voltage again (probes contacting the battery posts directly); record that number;

If the battery voltage has dropped to 10.x or low 11.x volts, your battery has just failed a load test (internal fault) which can be confirmed by your local auto parts place with their dedicated load tester.

If the battery still has >12.2 volts at the posts, but the lights went out, check for loose battery terminal clamps, or a damaged terminal post itself, where the post rotates or rocks.

As ctuna described, there are NO electronics in the Power Distribution Panel, just fusible links (high-amp fuses) that are "all-or-nothing" in that they burn out like a fuse and do NOT reset like a circuit breaker, so that doesn't explain your issues, unless there is a loose connection to the panel.

Please let us know what you find,
George

Bump for finding a thread where the OP has my exact issue to the T.

I replaced my battery as it was ~4 years old, but sometimes experience the difficult starting issue. It seems to come back when moving/disturbing the power distribution box, but going to go perform that load test.


Performed battery test and results were:

Battery terminals w/vehicle off: 12.5V
Battery Terminals after starting: 13.8V

Car started no problem after I put everything back together. Vehicle was recently at a body shop and I discovered that they needed to disconnect or remove the battery for some reason; I was having rear bumper repainted due to collision while someone else was parking.

The foam pad and bracing for it were not installed properly and there were wires from the positive cables wrapped around the battery support bar, it was a mess but I hope all better now.

[ivibmw]

Originally Posted by Chard

Thanks for the reply. I read about this issue on 07-11 cars, however my car is an 06. I am also not sure if the cause is the same since the car seems to react to tapping the power distribution box in the trunk, not by fiddling with anything at the fuse box in the glove compartment.

This leads me to think something is wrong with the power distribution box. How do you know if the box is starting to fail/failing?

Did you ever figure this out?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by ivibmw

Did you ever figure this out?

The OP in this thread has NOT posted to this form since his 5/30/17 post above. If you have an issue you seek help in diagnosing & fixing, I would suggest beginning a new thread in which you give details of the performance issues or symptoms your vehicle is exhibiting. No one can help without that specific information.

Saying: "I'm having this exact same problem" doesn't count.

George

[Wh400]

Hi,

My 2011 has now, 3 times, had the same issue - can't get key out, all lights are off, and if the car is running the 4X4, DSC lights are on, the iDrive keeps restarting and when it does, car hesitates, but doesn't stall. But all lights go on and off.

If I disconnect my battery and reconnect, all is right with the world. My terminals are tight, battery is only 4 months old. I do notice though that the whole battery connection box is loose and can be wiggled around. It is possible that this causes the intermittent issue? I am going to try to get it so it can't move at all as it can still move a tiny bit with the brace on. A new part is $60 which isn't bad and might be worth the try, but why waste the money.

Thanks for your help.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Wh400

... I am going to try to get it so it can't move at all as it can still move a tiny bit with the brace on. A new part is $60 which isn't bad and might be worth the try, but why waste the money...

Why Indeed! Just send $60 to me.
Seriously, there are two 13mm nuts, each under "Flip-up" plastic cover, with [+] on top. See Photos I attached to thread YOU started. Both nuts should be tightened to 11 Ft.Lb/ 15 Nm per the label shown in photo 1.

That's NOT "three grunts" with 1/2" torque wrench. Just "wrist tight with 1/4" ratchet ~ 4" handle.
George