[AllenE92PrettyFast]

I've been running this setup for 300 miles so far and i like it can going stage 2+ on almost a stock car damage it?

Current car stats:
2012 335is 7 speed dct
48000 miles
MHD Stage 2+ 93 oct
Mods: dci,inlets,outlets
Stock downpipes/Fmic
Valve cleaning was done 3 days ago
Currently running 0w 40 valvoline syn power euro spec
Outside temp betweeb 29-41 i live in Michigan

[Ozzie335i]

Best to fire up a few logs, and let one of the whiz kids here have a look.

[AllenE92PrettyFast]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Best to fire up a few logs, and let one of the whiz kids here have a look.

Sadly i don't haven't bought the logging feature yet

[whyzee125]

Running a stage 2+ map on stock DPs/fmic without logging is not wise. Pony up for the appropriate bolt ons or at the very least the logging feature. While it probably won't end in catastrophic failure, DPs are a whole lot cheaper than replacement turbos. Why risk it?

[Twin_Snails]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

Running a stage 2+ map on stock DPs/fmic without logging is not wise. Pony up for the appropriate bolt ons or at the very least the logging feature. While it probably won't end in catastrophic failure, DPs are a whole lot cheaper than replacement turbos. Why risk it?

+1 on this

[AllenE92PrettyFast]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

Running a stage 2+ map on stock DPs/fmic without logging is not wise. Pony up for the appropriate bolt ons or at the very least the logging feature. While it probably won't end in catastrophic failure, DPs are a whole lot cheaper than replacement turbos. Why risk it?

I thought having the additional radiator ( which i have no idea what it does) maybe cools the oil going to the turbos? And also thought inlets and outlet's would make up for the absence of downpipes and winter weather for the absence of a fmic. Any how i would like to know what could possibly go wrong if this setup is run. And if it shortens the life of the turbos with unnecessary stress i won't be putting it back on unless i have the right bolt on. As of right now i reverted the car back to stock map operation to solve another issue sadly didn't work ( car won't get past 190f till driven hard, takes 20 mins for it to get up to 190f w regular driving) thanks in advance for help.

[gurusan]

Have you done any logging?
There has to be a bunch of timing corrections...

Our additional cooling does nothing for IATs. Yes oil and coolant temps will be easier to control but that really does nothing beneficial for the tune.
I'm bone stock running stage 1 on my 335is, don't plan on going any further until I have my FMIC, downpipes, charge pipe and DCI installed.

[gurusan]

just read the part about no logging. too early for me

[9krpmrx8]

I don't know how your CP is holding on but yeah you can damage some things.

[AllenE92PrettyFast]

Originally Posted by gurusan

Have you done any logging?
There has to be a bunch of timing corrections...

Our additional cooling does nothing for IATs. Yes oil and coolant temps will be easier to control but that really does nothing beneficial for the tune.
I'm bone stock running stage 1 on my 335is, don't plan on going any further until I have my FMIC, downpipes, charge pipe and DCI installed.

I forgot mention that i did have a vrsf chargepipe, and its venting to atmosphere don't know if that affects anything

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by AllenE92PrettyFast

I forgot mention that i did have a vrsf chargepipe, and its venting to atmosphere don't know if that affects anything

add BMS Oil catch can ASAP and upgrade FMIC, DPs will be a plus to relax turbos

[AllenE92PrettyFast]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

add BMS Oil catch can ASAP and upgrade FMIC, DPs will be a plus to relax turbos

I think at most I'll add arm downpipes and fmic due to budget

[SHEEDI]

catch can is must see below, $135 is not that expensive

http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_335_oil_catch_can.html

[AllenE92PrettyFast]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

catch can is must see below, $135 is not that expensive

http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_335_oil_catch_can.html

I might consider it, but all these upgrades are going to be diy so I'll wait till it gets warmer. Thanks for the help

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

catch can is must see below, $135 is not that expensive

http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_335_oil_catch_can.html

Going external with the PCV(RB) has proven to be much more effective. The BMS helps a tiny bit, but if you compare how much oil it captures, vs the external PCV and correct Mishimoto CC...

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

add BMS Oil catch can ASAP and upgrade FMIC, DPs will be a plus to relax turbos

I would say downpipes over FMIC if you had a choice.

And does a catch can actually prevent that much than just carbon cleaning every 100k KM or every 60k KM.

If it can make it that you can do 20 or 30k more KM before having to clean them might be worth but has that been proven yet?

[AllenE92PrettyFast]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I would say downpipes over FMIC if you had a choice.

And does a catch can actually prevent that much than just carbon cleaning every 100k KM or every 60k KM.

If it can make it that you can do 20 or 30k more KM before having to clean them might be worth but has that been proven yet?

Honestly I'm more into cleaning the carbon every 20k typa thing because i don't find it hard or time consuming. I've heard catch cans with filter help but filterless one's are useless.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by AllenE92PrettyFast

Honestly I'm more into cleaning the carbon every 20k typa thing because i don't find it hard or time consuming. I've heard catch cans with filter help but filterless one's are useless.

How do you clean yours? Walnut or by hand?

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Going external with the PCV(RB) has proven to be much more effective. The BMS helps a tiny bit, but if you compare how much oil it captures, vs the external PCV and correct Mishimoto CC...

I have RB PCV Valve installed and BMS OCC, how this is different than my current setup and what other parts I need to get this?

[AllenE92PrettyFast]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

How do you clean yours? Walnut or by hand?

I've done both, and they both work good (walnut blast less effort) by hand i just buy gumout all parts cleaner, which is the strongest cleaner i can fond alot better than brake clean
Usually need 2 for valve cleaning, then get a gun cleaning kit from walmart and have at it.
For walnut blast it takes me like 1 hr 30 mins to 2 hrs. By hand takes me usually 3 hrs

[AllenE92PrettyFast]

Originally Posted by AllenE92PrettyFast

I've done both, and they both work good (walnut blast less effort) by hand i just buy gumout all parts cleaner, which is the strongest cleaner i can fond alot better than brake clean
Usually need 2 for valve cleaning, then get a gun cleaning kit from walmart and have at it.
For walnut blast it takes me like 1 hr 30 mins to 2 hrs. By hand takes me usually 3 hrs

Also take the fuel pump fuse out so you don't flood the engine with fuel when trying to reposition the valves ( you might of watched some videos of hard starts and rough start after cleaning by hand)

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by AllenE92PrettyFast

Also take the fuel pump fuse out so you don't flood the engine with fuel when trying to reposition the valves ( you might of watched some videos of hard starts and rough start after cleaning by hand)

Ok thanks.

My cheapest quote I found is 550$ at a shop, pretty hefty. And I don't have a air compressor I guess I'll give by hand a try. By hand after it's done you vacuum out and wipe out the gunk?

For the fuel, if you turn the crank manually it doesn't put fuel in tho right?