[shyne]

Hello all,

I am tackling a job on my car. My expected outcome is to finally be able to go through the drive thru without having to open my door!
Super embarrassing!

A little background before I explain... When purchasing the car the previous owner warned me that the window was not working. I tried to use it and it worked fine. For the first couple weeks of ownership it worked and operated as intended with no hiccups. One random day, I was trying to park and was trying to use the tilt down feature on the passenger side mirror. No response from mirror. Thought nothing of it but windows and mirrors have not worked from drivers side switch since.

Here are some codes I am currently getting which I will assume to have something to do with this issue.

07' 335i 01/07 Build

Codes:
9CC1 (FRM: Communication with mirror, driver's side disrupted)
9CC2 (FRM: Communication with mirror, passenger's side, disturbed)
9CCF (FRM: Communication with LIN operator unit disturbed)
CCID for drivers side window trap, I don't remember exactly what it is.

I was just at BMW and two of the techs told me I should try replacing the FRM and that it's a common issue for them to go out. While I trust they are good at their jobs I'm not convinced the FRM is the issue. The fact I am able to use passenger side window with passenger switch, pull codes, locks work, and lights work give me some hope I am able to fix this through proper and thorough diagnostic.

The lights on the driver's side switch block all light up as they should. I know it's getting power.
The passenger side mirror does not tilt down when in reverse, can't adjust either.
I can't operate passenger window from driver's switch but works fine from passenger switch.

While doing some research on the forums, I've read on some people reporting issues when voltage is below 12v but am still skeptical this is the issue. I am using the BimmerLink app for the following data.

Before cold start:
Battery load: 27%
Battery voltage: 11.78v
Current battery voltage: 12.13v
Battery voltage measured by IBS: 12.14v

After start:
Battery load: 27%
Battery voltage: 13.31v
Current battery voltage: 14.17v
Battery voltage measured by IBS: 14.18v

Not sure if it is of any importance but I have codes from other modules and one more FRM code (9309) that I don't think are related. Feel free to ask if you feel something else may be related.
If anyone has any input or advice it would be greatly appreciated!

[The Nightman]

Shot in the dark but possibly water damage in a headlight?

https://bmwrepairguide.com/sib/610405.pdf

[shyne]

Originally Posted by Guy Fieri

Shot in the dark but possibly water damage in a headlight?

https://bmwrepairguide.com/sib/610405.pdf

I don't think this is not very far fetched at all. One of my codes at the moment is
9309: (FRM: Main-beam headlight, right, faulty, E92/E93: turning light, right, faulty)

Upon inspection of the passenger connector, I found this


Looks very dirty, looks like some corrosion on the plastic part of the connector but nothing crazy.
Appears to be damage to pin 11/X13421. Goes to ground distribution connector X10012. Gotta love how close it is to the plug.

I'd assume it'd be wise to disconnect the ground to the battery when working on the electrical components of these cars. I will do that before moving forward. Although it may be unrelated I do plan on fixing this and spraying down some electrical cleaner on the connector to see if it does anything. I will be updating with results soon.

[shyne]

Update:

I wanted to see if cleaning the connector helped any. So I went ahead and depinned pin 11 so I could get some heat shrink on it as a temporary fix until I make my way to the junkyard to pick up a spare connector. Took advantage of the battery being disconnected to disconnect both headlight connectors and drown them in QRD electronic cleaner.

Dried it all up and connected everything together. Still no luck on the window. Did some research and found this thread that appears to give me some sort of clue. Red car on lift + can't delete FRM codes. Makes me believe the FRM is using the short circuit counter to protect itself. I'll double check with fuses and leave taking the door panel off and checking every single wire for continuity if that doesn't work. I will keep this thread posted with my findings.

[shyne]

Took time this morning to try further diagnosing this issue. Prepped the night before looking through wiring diagrams in ISTA. Shows F21 and F27 are used for the driver’s switch cluster. Decided to start with those.

To my surprise F27 was missing since it had worked previously. I put the corresponding fuse in and tried the switch. No response.

Proceeded with unplugging and inspecting connector X257, the intermediary connection at the door. No corrosion, all clean.

Next was to pull door panel off to inspect the wires. In retrospect it may have been unnecessary as it seems like I could’ve pulled the switch cluster off without removing the panel off. Continuity was good on LIN, power, and ground connections.

Well since I have the switch cluster out might as well crack it open and inspect for corrosion or any signs of it frying. Opened up and it is as clean as can be.
Wow.

I wanted to note that my driver window does not go up/down when opening/closing door. Passenger side does it fine.

A local BMW guy recommended I take a look at the FRM next and inspect the connections and module for corrosion. This was my final option as I am worried about causing damage to the module. I am at my last resort, if nothing is out of the ordinary I may go for buying a replacement module. Although that is not my favorite avenue as I’d like to make sure whatever caused it is repaired.

If anyone is able to throw any other ideas my way it would be greatly appreciated!

[shyne]

Hahahahahaha I don’t even know where to start
I took it for a drive and it’s all working now!

For some reason my belt extenders haven’t worked since the driver switch cluster went out. Went out for a drive and the drivers side worked flawlessly. No clue what happened. Got a random thought to try and roll the passenger window down while driving and voila it went down. Surprised to see this happen I tried to roll the driver’s side down and it worked!

I will note that on BimmerLink I was getting codes for my belt extenders along with mirrors. I was finally able to delete the codes which I will say is what I will hypothesize enabled me to use the windows again.

Codes are below if interested.
9CD4
9CD5

I did have to initialize my window again and now it goes down/up when opening/closing.

I wish I had a solid conclusion as to what fixed it to leave behind for future diagnosers, but I’ll go ahead and assume that everything I tried contributed to fixing it. Could’ve been dirty headlight connectors, dirty switch, dirty door connector, missing F27, I don’t know. Just glad I can roll down my windows in this spring weather!