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      03-14-2017, 10:34 AM   #23
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It was pointed out to me that I had a bad p/n down for the Loctite 5970 cover sealant. I had a typo and it has now been fixed. Thanks, OmahaDZL.

I had 405 incorrectly, and it was supposed to be 404 in the 2nd to last portion of number sequence.
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      03-18-2017, 12:56 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rlemp View Post
Front M3 Spec. (2x required) - 33312284019
Rear M3 Spec. Carrier Bushing (In Subframe) - 33176770866


BB_Cuda, have you figured out if the rear M3 bushing fits?
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      03-20-2017, 12:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
BB_Cuda, have you figured out if the rear M3 bushing fits?
Rlemp was person who was buying these parts. So, I'll need them to answer your question.

I'm collecting up parts for an overall M3 suspension conversion. I'm unsure at this point what i will do with diff bushings. I'm needing to be careful here and take into account what i do with the subframe to chassis bushings. I did receive my VWetish "large" diff kit. It will just go into that pile of parts. This is the diff hold down kit i mentioned in one of the above posts.

I'm needing to do detailed homework to decide whether my 650i finned cover gets "windowed" to allow bracket from hold to slip through or cut the bracket on the kit. I'm a little leary on cutting the bracket though vwetish says it's okay. If i cut bracket, only 2 bolts would be connected on diff cover versus a 3rd one.
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      03-27-2017, 01:42 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
One last thing. I wanted to add a drain hole to either the cover or have a hole drilled and tapped into the bottom of diff itself. I feel the direct hole in diff method would more completely drain. Here is picture of a diff that has my style of finned cover and a rather large drain plug in bottom. I don't know what size that it is. I was wanting to pursue getting a 1/4" NPT put in but the thought came to me sort of late in the process.
Mentioning this so others can get this put into their diff work plan up front.
I think that most e60 diff have a drain: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
BB_Cuda, have you figured out if the rear M3 bushing fits?
Only front 2 bushings are interchangeable. Not the rear one.
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      03-28-2017, 12:37 PM   #27
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[QUOTE=feuer;21479602]I think that most e60 diff have a drain: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=10
Link seems to be broken. Please try again.
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      03-28-2017, 01:09 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
I think that most e60 diff have a drain: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=10
Link seems to be broken. Please try again.
post#7
https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...0/#post1467589
photo#3
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
photo#5
http://blog.bavauto.com/11846/bmw-ma...ge-how-to-diy/
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      03-28-2017, 05:06 PM   #29
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Thank you, feuer! I suppose the question is does the E60 diff come in a 215 size. I think that is a yes as my finned diff cover fits them. One or more guys are getting Wavetrac and my understanding that the drain hole will get tapped in there for them. I'll let them show it when theirs' get completed.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 10-11-2019 at 09:27 AM..
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      03-29-2017, 03:21 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
BB_Cuda, have you figured out if the rear M3 bushing fits?
I have not yet had time to start on the install of the Wavetrac - I just purchased a 3.0 Turbo Diesel Sprinter and have been working on getting it tuned/running how I want it - however -

I did jack the 335 up to have a detailed look at the M3 rear bushing I already purchased & it DOES NOT look like it will fit. It looks smaller than our OEM rubber(ish) mount.
I do know the front two M3 bushings will fit but the rear subframe mount is for sure smaller on the M3.
I have done some pretty extensive research on the bushings and think I might go a different route - upgrading to the Powerflex purple Poly bushings. They have the lowest NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness) for poly. and you don't really have to worry about them wearing out like the OEM 335 & M3 bushings.

If anyone wants the OEM M3 (brand new with stickers) front bushings, PM me - I still have them for now, if no-one wants them ill take them back to the dealer for exchange on other parts. I'm now having dreams about BB_Cuda's Alpina trans cover!


Last edited by Ohiodiesel; 03-29-2017 at 03:34 PM..
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      05-15-2017, 01:41 PM   #31
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Directly added into original DIY several suggestions for clarity from OmahaDZL. He ran into a difficulty with the stub axle seals and retainer clips that I didn't have to mess with. We learned that Autotech (as a default) doesn't reinstall new axle seals and retainer clips. I advise shipping new seals and clips with diff so there is no misunderstanding. There may be another method of accomplishing the same end result pending Wavetrac dealer getting Autotech to just increase there price by the cost of these parts. Omaha will add in his experience with installing seals and clips below. Thanks to Omaha for giving me feedback on my DIY. The updates are color coded to see where they were added.

EDIT: After adding the updates, it came to mind that the non exhaust dropped method might possibly backfire on you. Omaha stayed with the normal OEM diff cover. If you switch to the finned one, it protrudes a little more to drivers side. I sure wouldn't want you to realize this cover won't fit in between the pipes in the heat of the battle. So, i added a cautionary note about measuring to ensure you diff will fit through on the way back up, if you switch covers.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 05-15-2017 at 01:48 PM..
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      05-19-2017, 04:04 PM   #32
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Hello all,
Cuda did a great job of summarizing my experience in his original post. But Ill add on a little more detail.

First and foremost Id like to thank Cuda for helping me as he allowed me to ping him a lot with questions and advice and clarifications. Without him and this post, I may not have done this mod. Not to mention, I purchased his core from him.... (he got his core from the salvage yard for 600 and charged me the same)

Second, Whitbread was the dealer that hooked me up with Autotech (manufacturer of Wavetrac) in CA. He made me a WONDERFUL deal on it that I couldnt pass up. Id def point you to him to get this mod started.

Now, I would HIGHLY recommend the following path: 1. Talk to Whitbread. 2. Buy a core from someone (currently, mine is available) 3. Have them ship it to Autotech directly.

You would think this would be a week turn around...but its not... It takes much longer than you would hope...so your car will be down for a while if you ship them yours. We are talking aprox 6 weeks.

When I received mine, I didnt notice that my stub axles were not fixed in place. And after dumping an entire quart of gear oil into the diff, which then flowed onto my bench and then on my shop floor, I come to find out that neither the clips nor seals were in the diff. This was an oversight on the part of Whitbread, who was not aware that Autotech did not install them during assembly. Since then, this has been rectified as he sent Autotech 4 sets for his customers.... I dont expect this to be a problem anymore, however...go ahead and check just in case by trying to pull out the stub axles by hand....if they dont move, you are good...very little force needed...they may even fall out. But just in case...heres how I installed: put a little oil around the outside of the seal....and get the shoulder of the seal into the diff.... you wont be able to get it in straight by hand... I tried to use a piece of wood and hammer...didnt work.. Eventually I used the stub axle WITHOUT the clip installed....I put the axle in the diff over the seal and tapped on the axle until you hear the familiar sound that something is seated down... then remove the stub, put the clip on the axle and tap in gently.... no big deal... 5 min.

to be continued...

Last edited by OmahaDZL; 06-07-2017 at 10:40 AM..
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      05-19-2017, 04:59 PM   #33
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Now on to the actual job....

I have the OEM exhaust with a gutted SCR, so I really didnt want to pull it all down if i didnt have to. And given that I was going to go with the OEM back plate I didnt have to worry about the size getting it back in...once it was out.

To prep, you only need to slide the rear heat shield forward an inch or so..... so remove the "hump bracket" and a few of the screws holding that shield in place and slide it forward so you can get to the big 50mm nut. I ended up putting one of the bolts back in, in a different hole so as to keep the shield from falling back into its normal spot. Worked perfectly.

Instead of belts, I used heavy gauge electrical wire....which worked fine...however, looking back on it, the best thing to use probably would have been those sliding strap binder things with the friction clip on one end...easily tightened and loosened and easily removable, when done. They probably have sets of them at Harbor freight.

first thing I would do is to remove the rubber isolators that are part of the exhaust hanging system that is right below the front 2 ears of the diff. They tend to get in the way more often than not....and its just a pain to get around them....Cuda suggested WD40 and pliers...I havent done it, but that sounds like it would work fine.

When removing the rear bolt, though that 288 nut only looks like its about 1/2 inch of threads, there are actually about 3 times that many ....so fully expect to crank on it for a while. The wrench for back there is 1-1/16 or a 27mm. There is not a lot of space so be patient...it will come off in due time Side note: If you dont have the 1/2 inch drive ratchet with the extendable handle from Harbor freight ...you should get this....best tool in my chest.

As for the big nut on the front of the diff connecting to the drive shaft... To remove, put the 50mm crows foot on the nut, with the handle pointing to the drivers side of the car and rotate to the passenger side. If you choose to remove this nut and put on a new one (new one has a bonding compound on the threads, which could probably be replicated with loctite, but I bought a new one) the flange is lobed ...rotate it a few times and wiggle it.. ..it will come out.

As for installing.... patience.... the first thing i did was slide it onto the drive shaft....I used a little lithium grease...but Im sure whatever will be fine...its just a matter of getting it to slide in the splines....once I was connected there, I got a couple threads on the big nut by hand and things started to line up. I got one front bolt in.... partially lined up the 2nd one....and then sucked the first one up so the 2nd one lined up and started...by then i could move the jack around to the back and adjust that one to get that bolt lined up in the hole.

From there you are home free...tighten it all up.

The rest of this is in the e-diff thread, but you wont have many of the benefits if you dont get your ediff coded out. Holding down the DTC will not turn off ediff! You have to code it. its in the DSC module. Without turning this off, you will still have the car trying to intervene when a tire is spinning...you wont be able to feel much difference in the car until then.

Also....if you are afraid of safety without ediff...I tested it in the rain....traction and stability arent effected.....I broke tires loose, got a little out of line...and the car brought me right back.... No worries.

Be patient....BE SAFE....and good luck

Last edited by OmahaDZL; 06-07-2017 at 10:41 AM..
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      05-19-2017, 09:38 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmahaDZL View Post
Hello all,
Cuda did a great job of summarizing my experience in his original post. But Ill add on a little more detail.

First and foremost Id like to thank Cuda for helping me as he allowed me to ping him a lot with questions and advice and clarifications. Without him and this post, I may not have done this mod. Not to mention, I purchased his core from him.... (he got his core from the salvage yard for 600 and charged me the same)

Second, Whitbread was the dealer that hooked me up with Autotech (manufacturer of Wavetrac) in CA. He made me a WONDERFUL deal on it that I couldnt pass up. Id def point you to him to get this mod started.

Now, I would HIGHLY recommend the following path: 1. Talk to Whitbread. 2. Buy a core from someone (currently, mine is available) 3. Have them ship it to Autotech directly.

You would think this would be a week turn around...but its not... It takes much longer than you would hope...so your car will be down for a while if you ship them yours. We are talking aprox 6 weeks.

When I received mine, I didnt notice that my stub axles were not fixed in place. And after dumping an entire quart of gear oil into the diff, which then flowed onto my bench and then on my shop floor, I come to find out that neither the clips nor seals were in the diff. This was an oversight on the part of Whitbread, who was not aware that Autotech did not install them during assembly. Since then, this has been rectified as he sent Autotech 4 sets for his customers.... I dont expect this to be a problem anymore, however...go ahead and check just in case by trying to pull out the stub axles by hand....if they dont move, you are good...very little force needed...they may even fall out. But just in case...heres how I installed: put a little oil around the outside of the seal....and get the shoulder of the seal into the diff.... you wont be able to get it in straight by hand... I tried to use a piece of wood and hammer...didnt work.. Eventually I used the stub axle WITHOUT the clip installed....I put the axle in the diff over the seal and tapped on the axle until you hear the familiar sound that something is seated down... then remove the stub, put the clip on the axle and tap in gentle.... no big deal... 5 min.

to be continued...
+1 for Whitbread and Wavetrac.

Also - my core is available too
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      05-19-2017, 10:36 PM   #35
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Thanks Omaha for adding your particular aspects of this job. Glad I was there to help further explain to you. There wasn't much I could do for him when the fluid went all over the garage floor other than lend moral support.

Where/who is that 50 mm wrench going to next? Our friend in Vancouver perhaps.
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      05-20-2017, 02:00 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Thanks Omaha for adding your particular aspects of this job. Glad I was there to help further explain to you. There wasn't much I could do for him when the fluid went all over the garage floor other than lend moral support.

Where/who is that 50 mm wrench going to next? Our friend in Vancouver perhaps.
I had planned on sending it to whoever got my core....but frankly since it wasnt mine to begin with...Ill send it to whoever you deem it to go to Cuda...
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      05-20-2017, 05:54 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmahaDZL View Post
I had planned on sending it to whoever got my core....but frankly since it wasnt mine to begin with...Ill send it to whoever you deem it to go to Cuda...
Don't necessarily think it should be my choice. TDI loaned that tool to me and rather than me mailing it back, he decided that it was to be a community wrench. So, on to the next guy I sent it. It just happened to be you, the buyer of the diff. I think TDI's point was whomever needed it. I'm not sure where Yozh is in his conversion process. He is certainly going to be in need but its a matter of when. I guess it's up to your disgression as to where it goes.
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      05-22-2017, 08:19 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Don't necessarily think it should be my choice. TDI loaned that tool to me and rather than me mailing it back, he decided that it was to be a community wrench. So, on to the next guy I sent it. It just happened to be you, the buyer of the diff. I think TDI's point was whomever needed it. I'm not sure where Yozh is in his conversion process. He is certainly going to be in need but its a matter of when. I guess it's up to your disgression as to where it goes.
Gotcha, I misunderstood. Im ready to ship to whoever when they are ready to rock then!
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      05-30-2017, 05:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rlemp View Post
I have not yet had time to start on the install of the Wavetrac - I just purchased a 3.0 Turbo Diesel Sprinter and have been working on getting it tuned/running how I want it - however -

I did jack the 335 up to have a detailed look at the M3 rear bushing I already purchased & it DOES NOT look like it will fit. It looks smaller than our OEM rubber(ish) mount.
I do know the front two M3 bushings will fit but the rear subframe mount is for sure smaller on the M3.
I have done some pretty extensive research on the bushings and think I might go a different route - upgrading to the Powerflex purple Poly bushings. They have the lowest NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness) for poly. and you don't really have to worry about them wearing out like the OEM 335 & M3 bushings.

If anyone wants the OEM M3 (brand new with stickers) front bushings, PM me - I still have them for now, if no-one wants them ill take them back to the dealer for exchange on other parts. I'm now having dreams about BB_Cuda's Alpina trans cover!

So I finally committed to buying the Powerflex purple front and rear for the differential. I also purchased the Powerflex black for the 4 sub frame bushings.
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      05-30-2017, 06:53 PM   #40
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So I finally committed to buying the Powerflex purple front and rear for the differential. I also purchased the Powerflex black for the 4 sub frame bushings.
Lemme know about the NVH....I was thinking I should...

Also lemme know about how hard that job is after the fact...
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      06-06-2017, 07:01 PM   #41
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Got those parts in yesterday. Just need to work out the specifics for the shocks/struts and springs. I probably will need adjustable front links for the sway bar. I got the adjustable rear toe links with Aurora spherical bearings.
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      06-06-2017, 07:02 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmahaDZL View Post
This was an oversight on the part of Whitbread, who was not aware that Autotech did not install them during assembly. Since then, this has been rectified as he sent Autotech 4 sets for his customers.
Yes, as Omamha said, there was a slight misunderstanding on my end and I had to eat my hat on the matter. I didn't notice the the fine print that the install service does not include new seals and that the customer is responsible for them. Sitting down and thinking about it, the seals obviously have to come out to remove the bearings to change the differential. It just so happened the the previous couple E90 differentials I handled, the customers either sent new seals to autotech, or had the new seals at home ahead of time expecting to have put them in. It was rather unfortunate to find out the way Omaha and I did at 10pm on a tuesday night, but as he said, it's all fixed now and I have seals sitting at Autotech ready for the next job .
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      06-18-2017, 04:32 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by OmahaDZL View Post
I had planned on sending it to whoever got my core....but frankly since it wasnt mine to begin with...Ill send it to whoever you deem it to go to Cuda...
Do you still have the core available? I have been looking for one for months now in the US to do my Wavetrak install.
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      07-05-2017, 02:33 AM   #44
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Do you still have the core available? I have been looking for one for months now in the US to do my Wavetrak install.
If you are on the fb group omaha has one. I can put you in touch with him, even though I was going to get it after my europe trip
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