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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Whiteline Rear Camber Eccentric Bushings



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      07-11-2018, 08:57 PM   #1
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Whiteline Rear Camber Eccentric Bushings

Is there any value to switching to a poly bushing here? (circled in yellow)

https://www.whiteline.com.au/product...=W63401&sq=844
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      07-12-2018, 11:18 AM   #2
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That's not where those go.
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      07-12-2018, 12:34 PM   #3
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Oh my mistake. Where do they go? And is it worth putting poly in that location?
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      07-12-2018, 01:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
Oh my mistake. Where do they go? And is it worth putting poly in that location?
You circled lower rear inner. Part linked in front lower inner. Is it worth it? That depends on what are you trying to achieve. I think fro the circle part you need this: https://www.whiteline.com.au/product..._number=W63400 Also these aren't eccentric.
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      07-12-2018, 02:20 PM   #5
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I'm trying to minimize deflection in the rear suspension. I think the part you linked (W63400) are the 4 trailing arm bushings, which I've already done.

The part I linked appears, to me anyway, to be 2 x 2-piece bushings, for the same application as this powerflex part https://powerflexusa.com/bmwe81e82e8...-pfr5-415.aspx. You can see in their diagram that this would go at the inner "spring arm" attachment point circled in red.

The diff and subframe bushings are all polyurethane. I've also installed adjustable rear toe, guide and wishbone arms.

So at this point that bushing at the camber adjustment eccentric bolt is the only remaining OEM rubber bushing in the rear, and I'm wondering if it's detrimental to leave a singled mismatched bushing pair in there.
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      07-12-2018, 02:45 PM   #6
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I think it would absolutely be a benefit. I have those exact w/line bushings waiting for install...

Those and the inner trailing arm are the last OEM rubber left for me.
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      07-12-2018, 03:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
I'm trying to minimize deflection in the rear suspension. I think the part you linked (W63400) are the 4 trailing arm bushings, which I've already done
It will help with what you want to achieve.

Front inner #10
Rear inner #9
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1354

Says lower rear inner
https://www.whiteline.com.au/product..._number=W63400

Aslo, have you seen these: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48692
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      07-12-2018, 03:22 PM   #8
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Those are very interesting. I have the toe arm lockout kit, I'll consider adding these in the future.
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      07-12-2018, 03:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
Those are very interesting. I have the toe arm lockout kit, I'll consider adding these in the future.
I use the camber kit as I track and wanted to lock the camber. When you do alignments you set camber first. Toe is easier to adjust and even easier if camber is locked. Unless something is bent...
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      07-12-2018, 03:47 PM   #10
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I know you track your car, you passed me several times at Autobahn on Saturday!

If I may ask, what lockout spacer do you use (3MM, 4MM, etc) and what are your corresponding rear alignment angles?
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      07-12-2018, 03:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
I know you track your car, you passed me several times at Autobahn on Saturday!

If I may ask, what lockout spacer do you use (3MM, 4MM, etc) and what are your corresponding rear alignment angles?
Me? Definitely not. I'm slow. They were few 1-ers! Which one is yours? Angle is set at -2.5 but not sure on the MM for spacers. I only remember was different MM side to side.
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      07-12-2018, 04:35 PM   #12
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I was in the silver 135i. It was my first track day on r-Comps so I wasn't driving very aggressive.
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      07-12-2018, 05:07 PM   #13
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I was in the silver 135i. It was my first track day on r-Comps so I wasn't driving very aggressive.
I was on Hankook RS3 that I bought used recently. They were used on track in 2016. We had 3 sessions so I decided to just wear them out completely. Last year I was on Federal RSRR and this year on Nankang RS-2R, both are few seconds faster than the Hankook RS3's. The white 1-er was moving decently but still on the slow side considering all the work.Only car the impressed my with how fast it goes was the blue Camaro. My friend with the blue 335i ran slicks last year and was scaring me how was can go in turns
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      07-12-2018, 05:46 PM   #14
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I've met the owners of the blue camaro a few times there. The ZL1 is no joke and they were on lightly used pirelli slicks.
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      07-18-2018, 11:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Me? Definitely not. I'm slow. They were few 1-ers! Which one is yours? Angle is set at -2.5 but not sure on the MM for spacers. I only remember was different MM side to side.
I received the lockout shims today. They look solid. If you ever get a chance to look at the ones you have installed I'd be curious what mm shims you are using.

I will probably start with the 2 mm shims as i'm running -2.2 now and i think it maxes at -3
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      07-18-2018, 12:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
I received the lockout shims today. They look solid. If you ever get a chance to look at the ones you have installed I'd be curious what mm shims you are using.

I will probably start with the 2 mm shims as i'm running -2.2 now and i think it maxes at -3
I asked VT this Saturday and was told 0mm on left and 1mm on right. My camber goes from -2.5 to -2.2 depending if I run the 10mm rear spring pad or not.
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      07-19-2018, 10:48 AM   #17
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I think the shims are cool and they look like super high quality/solid pieces, but why not just swap out the upper arm to an adjustable unit instead? With the swap you'll also be getting fresh/stiffer bushings and a MUCH more user friendly method of camber adjustment.
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      07-19-2018, 04:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
I think the shims are cool and they look like super high quality/solid pieces, but why not just swap out the upper arm to an adjustable unit instead? With the swap you'll also be getting fresh/stiffer bushings and a MUCH more user friendly method of camber adjustment.
I already have adjustable upper guide and wishbone arms. They are a giant, giant pain in the ass to adjust and tighten. Probably user error.

I bought them mostly for the solid bearings to replace the OEM rubber bushings. In retrospect this was probably a waste, and I should have just replaced the bushings themselves.
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      07-19-2018, 04:48 PM   #19
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That's a shame...my Manzo toe arms are a breeze to adjust. Would assume their upper arms would be just as easy to adjust given equal design.
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      07-19-2018, 05:11 PM   #20
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The issue with the upper arms is getting a wrench up past the hub and the lack of room to tighten and loosen. SPL arms use a pinch bolt design thatís easier but the price reflects a higher quality of material and engineering.
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      07-21-2018, 09:02 PM   #21
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So I've decided to hold off on the camber bushings. A bigger issue are the soft OEM rear top shock mount bushings. They are ridiculously soft and compliant. I'll be replacing them with Powerflex Black bushings this week, hopefully this reduces some of the rear end bounciness.
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      Yesterday, 10:31 AM   #22
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Many of us on here use Monroe upper shock mounts. Probably just as good as Powerflex but cost lot less and be more comfortable.
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