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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Rear Main Seal leak!!!



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      11-30-2019, 04:28 PM   #23
Jordan335i
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Update.Finally got it fixed. It was in fact the rear main seal. It was pushed out pretty bad and pissing oil. Paid $700 to get it fixed including the $40 seal. Make sure you get the updated part # when replacing it. Good luck guys.
Thanks for the update! What is the updated part number? How did it get pushed out, that's strange.
Was this on an automatic trans?
More pictures confirming this issue. Just had oil pan and VCG replaced. Still leaking. Rear main seal is next. [IMG][/IMG]
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      12-01-2019, 02:13 PM   #24
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Please post a DIY, if you are up to it. Step by step would be nice...
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      12-01-2019, 07:09 PM   #25
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I'm interested in this also. I'm assuming the transmission has to come out in order to get to the rear main seal?
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      12-02-2019, 05:31 AM   #26
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I'm interested in this also. I'm assuming the transmission has to come out in order to get to the rear main seal?
Yep. Gotta drop part of the subframe a little I think. A transmission jack comes in handy as well as the ability to get the car off the ground at least 19-20". Long extensions are a must.
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      12-02-2019, 10:01 AM   #27
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I'm interested in this also. I'm assuming the transmission has to come out in order to get to the rear main seal?
Yep. Gotta drop part of the subframe a little I think. A transmission jack comes in handy as well as the ability to get the car off the ground at least 19-20". Long extensions are a must.
trans needs to be removed but subframe is untouched.
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      12-02-2019, 12:52 PM   #28
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I'm interested in this also. I'm assuming the transmission has to come out in order to get to the rear main seal?
Yep. Gotta drop part of the subframe a little I think. A transmission jack comes in handy as well as the ability to get the car off the ground at least 19-20". Long extensions are a must.
trans needs to be removed but subframe is untouched.
I've read that you need to drop the subframe down a few inches in order to remove the tranny. That might have been on an AWD version though.

You definitely need the RMS tool. I have seen posts where guys use a rubber mallet to press in the new seal. To me, that's just crazy given the importance of your transmission and the amount of work required to get to the RMS in case the rubber mallet method screwed something up like folding a part of the seal etc.
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      04-17-2022, 07:57 PM   #29
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Is anyone running a crankcase breather? The one that replaces the oil cap . My rms is popped out like some of you guys so wondering if the breather would help . Thanks
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      08-28-2022, 07:22 PM   #30
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Update.Finally got it fixed. It was in fact the rear main seal. It was pushed out pretty bad and pissing oil. Paid $700 to get it fixed including the $40 seal. Make sure you get the updated part # when replacing it. Good luck guys.
Hi msjt,
You mentioned an updated part number in this post. Do you have that updated part number? I'm asking because it seems that the replacement rear main seals on 02/2009 and newer N54s is of a different design. I pulled mine today and it's twice as high as the replacement. It also has seal grooves when the replacement doesn't have any.
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      09-02-2022, 12:35 PM   #31
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Hi msjt,
You mentioned an updated part number in this post. Do you have that updated part number? I'm asking because it seems that the replacement rear main seals on 02/2009 and newer N54s is of a different design. I pulled mine today and it's twice as high as the replacement. It also has seal grooves when the replacement doesn't have any.
Hey, sorry not sure. I bought the wrong seal and the shop had sourced the correct one from the dealer. Maybe check FCP Euro?
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      10-15-2022, 03:23 PM   #32
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the new updated part number is 11-11-7-587-168
the original seat was 12mm thick and the new one is 8mm
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