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      11-15-2019, 04:57 PM   #1
Soravia
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E91 Manual xDrive LCI Wagon Suspension Upgrade Thread

So I got this in front of the door! What's in it?
Turner Motorsports did say they have Bilstein B6 kits for as low as $600 if you call in and ask right now!

I also ordered a 22 mm strut nut tool because I know Bilstein nuts are larger than 21 mm OE nuts.
Not yet pictured, M3 suspension arms, bushing inserts, new OE bushings, replacement spindles with new OE bearings, sub frame bushing inserts, and more

What's getting done.
Front
Bilstein B6 HD Dampers, mounts and all hardware
Tension strut with polyurethane added bushings, wishbone replacement with all hardware
Spindle, Hub bearing, tie rod ends, all.hardware
Front axle shafts and seals, because road salt trapped behind wheel cap rusted out the 36 mm nut on drive shaft, and seals
Front differential input shaft seal. It has a good amount of leak showing after I cleaned up.
OE spec Uro brand engine mounts, filled with 60 duro meter polyurethane.
335i rebuilt calipers with brass slide pins, stainless steel brake hoses

Rear
M3 sub frame with bushings and new bolts
M3 control arms with specific hardware
Spindle, hub bearing, and rear axles with hardware
Rear flex disc with hardware
New hard brake line pipes to replace rusted out end nuts
Stainless steel brake hoses
Control Arm bushings
Drive shaft support bearing
Exhaust coupling clamps

Remove rust and repaint front sub freame edges, rear under body panel seams, clean and coat with rubber coating as much as possible
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Last edited by Soravia; 12-06-2019 at 08:50 AM..
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      11-16-2019, 08:23 PM   #2
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Wheel hubs, axle shaft but, hub carrier aka spindle all have to go due to salt.
The used hub carrier I bought for $100 on eBay has worn out bearings due to mileage so I pressed them out, clean up the corrosion, put in new bearings and dust cover, and press the hubs back in.

The ball joint T50 screws were locked in with thread locker. Impact tool doesn't work on them. Have to use leverage.
Because it's not mounted to anything, I created leverage 😃
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Last edited by Soravia; 11-23-2019 at 12:16 PM..
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      11-18-2019, 02:39 PM   #3
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$30 E90 M3 rear guide rod, camber control arms came in, but for ONE side. LoL
Online shows only these numbers for sale. I'll call and ask if they have the other side.
Centric is the brand but I'm sure someone is make them for the brand. Someone who makes them for OE BMW supply 😃
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Last edited by Soravia; 11-23-2019 at 12:17 PM..
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      11-18-2019, 04:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soravia View Post
$30 E90 M3 rear guide rod, camber control arms came in, but for ONE side. LoL
Online shows only these numbers for sale. I'll call and ask if they have the other side.
Centric is the brand but I'm sure someone is make them for the brand. Someone who makes them for OE BMW supply 😃
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1079383

"Changing the Guide Rod from OE to M3 removes one rubber bushing and replaces it with a ball joint, resulting in a softening of the suspension."
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      11-18-2019, 07:51 PM   #5
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I think it's designed that way to induce toe for cornering.
My NC series Miata multi link, RX-8, and the ND series all have it.
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      11-23-2019, 11:57 AM   #6
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I ordered replacement wheel spindle / kingpin from a 2008/11 LCI 335i RWD sedan to reuse hub part number 33416783671 and spindle and replace bearing part number 33416775842, same part on 335i RWD.
The kingpin / spindles are same parts between 328xi 328i xDrive and 335i RWD sedan.
Wheel carrier, rear left 33326783667
Wheel carrier, rear right 33326783668

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1231
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1231
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1230

Works perfectly for me because 328i (no xDrive) sedan has smaller and different bearing and hub?
Rear Bearing part number 33416762317
Rear hub part number 33416752381
Wheel carrier, rear left 33326783653
Wheel carrier, rear right 33326783654

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1231
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1230

328xi 328i xDrive really is using parts off 335i cars!
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      11-23-2019, 12:21 PM   #7
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Got the TRW M3 rear control arm wishbone (upper rear) for $60 from Rocky Mountain European. No bracket for ABS cable.

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...546-MFG80.aspx

But the guide rod (shorter upper forward) for that side was $111
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...548-MFG80.aspx
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      11-28-2019, 11:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soravia View Post
Got the TRW M3 rear control arm wishbone (upper rear) for $60 from Rocky Mountain European. No bracket for ABS cable.

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...546-MFG80.aspx

But the guide rod (shorter upper forward) for that side was $111
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...548-MFG80.aspx
Could you tell any difference between TRW and Centric arms? Really considering buying comlete kit from TRW but it's a bit pricey. In comparison, having one side from one manufacturer and the other side from another one makes me uncomfortable.
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      11-28-2019, 12:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebax View Post
Could you tell any difference between TRW and Centric arms? Really considering buying comlete kit from TRW but it's a bit pricey. In comparison, having one side from one manufacturer and the other side from another one makes me uncomfortable.
They are the same item in different box
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      11-30-2019, 09:40 AM   #10
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Haven't seen a mention of springs yet. Are you staying at stock ride height?

Now that I live where it snows, raising (!) my wagon has crossed my mind.
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      11-30-2019, 01:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runt View Post
Haven't seen a mention of springs yet. Are you staying at stock ride height?

Now that I live where it snows, raising (!) my wagon has crossed my mind.
I think it will rise up more due to monotube Bilstein HD dampers (instead of twin tube Bilstein B4, even if for just a bit.

One can also use RWD front strut mount and then add some spacers to the rear strut or spring perch to add lift to the car.

You will need Camber adjustment parts like rear camber arm or front arm / strut mount, etc.

Going with 235/45/18 was a game changer for height as well. But those are my summer sets. I wouldn't go that close with winter, the snow will rub off the body liners, etc.

235/45/17 or 245/45/17 is still good for raising a tiny bit.

I'll be cleaning up the M3 rear subframe and put in polyurethane into front arm bushings this weekend.
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      12-02-2019, 11:48 PM   #12
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M3 sub frame rear toe mount points are 23" apart, center to center of the holes.

CONFIRMED! Non M3 E9X rear sub frame has longer distance between mounting point to king pin / spindle for rear toe arms.
M3 sub frame has the mounting point visibly more outward position.

First one is Non-M3, the second one is M3 rear sub frame.

So it was a good thing I bought used M3 rear toe arms for $30 each

Let's hope I won't need M3 lower control arms, that would mean I will have to use M3 rear dampers as well!
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Last edited by Soravia; 12-06-2019 at 01:48 AM..
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      12-04-2019, 01:47 AM   #13
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Epic overhaul ! I'm gunna need to tackle the suspension on my xDrive E91 sometime soon too, might just follow suit !
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      12-04-2019, 11:26 PM   #14
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Road salt trapped inside wheel center cap will do this to your car.


Ended up ordering new front shafts, in case they won't come out.
Going to try drilling tomorrow. Rear shafts are more expensive and slower to ship from where available, so I'll hold off on them until drilling results come out.

I'll drill and use a hub puller to force it all out.
For rusted and stuck rotors, use the breaker bar between the rotor and the wheel spindle / king pin and apply prying via leverage. Works like magic.
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      12-05-2019, 11:05 PM   #15
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DO NOT bother trying to press out the front tension strut control arm bushings.
You'll have hard time trying to get adapter to fit the slim edges of bushing as well as housing.
Just pay $78 and get the whole new arm and bushings.

To remove it you have to disconnect the tension strut from the ball joint on the spindle / king pin. But you won't be able to knock it out. The Bushing on the sub frame side is binding due to Torque on the nut and bolt.
Loosen the 18 mm nut and 18 mm bolt, and you'll have the connection to the ball joint on spindle side simply fall out.
REMEMBER that binding torque issue when you re assemble. Don't come crying about how the car is sitting 2" higher because of "Springs not settling" BS.
Torque the 18 mm nut after the car is sitting at proper height.
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Last edited by Soravia; 12-06-2019 at 08:49 AM..
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      12-05-2019, 11:09 PM   #16
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Spindle ball joints to connect to front tension strut have glued thread T50 screws. Use breaker bar to get them loose before impact wrenches.
The join can be hammered out with spindle on vice. Not recommended to hammer while in car. Too many rubber bushings to absorb the impact.

Putting back in is simple with brake lube in the hole and hammer in the ears of ball joint to push a little in place before screwing down replacement screws with impact wrench.
Brake lube will prevent moisture penetration and rust as seen on old one. Easier to replace next time.
I'll add rubber coating spray later to whole spindle before brake install for even better protection.
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Last edited by Soravia; 12-06-2019 at 08:46 AM..
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      12-06-2019, 01:39 AM   #17
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Filled OE spec engine mounts with polyurethane.

They WILL flow out from bottom holes so be sure to seal them. I left my duct tape at the mechanic garage so I had to improvise. It takes about 120 mL to fill up each engine mount hollow cavity.

Not sure but I think the engine may sit slightly higher since OE liquid mount won't expand side ways under pressure anymore. It might pop down into the bottom hard plastic area?
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Last edited by Soravia; 12-06-2019 at 01:55 AM..
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      12-07-2019, 10:53 PM   #18
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Replaced passenger side engine mount. Original mount is still in great shape at 60k miles. Less heat from exhaust vs 335i probably makes it last long over the miles.
Cut about 3 mm off the stud to make it go in easier.That's the excess length sticking out over the nut.

Lifting the engine up is not for the faint of heart since the top of engine cover is pressed against the wire loom and other things over the engine.

Left the driver side engine mount alone. It will NOT come out unless front differential is removed or steering shaft disconnected from column.

Engine mounts have locating pin on bottom side, there's no way to mistake the direction they mount.
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Last edited by Soravia; 12-08-2019 at 12:56 AM..
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      12-08-2019, 12:42 AM   #19
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Front Bilstein B6 HD struts are in. Had to be careful to make sure the spring and new spring rubber isolation seat properly to prevent raised front end.
No bump stops in B6? Not sure. Couldn't feel it under the dust boot.
OE twin tube dampers were GONE at 60k miles. Probably went out by 40-50k miles.
Along with the strut damper, you need new top and bottom spring rubber isolation, strut mount, small washer to seal the bottom of the strut mount bearing so debris won't get into bearing, and the bigger washer with rubber to isolate the strut mount from the top spring retainer.
Also get the strut to the body thin isolation that prevent squeaks. It was not included in the refresh kit from Turner Motorsports.
I had to reuse mine. Better to buy new. If you can't afford new and old ones are gone, apply thin layer of gasket maker.

Bilstein strut mount nut is locking 22 mm nut instead of factory 20 mm nut.
I pulled the factory off with impact wrench since I didn't care for them. Is that why they have no more pressure?

The Bilstein strut rod is held down by 7 mm Allen wrench, be sure to get it you'll be stuck. Do NOT use impact wrench to install. Spinning rod with force can damage the internal seals.

It was a PITA to align the springs to the mounting so the car won't sit high but I had help.
OE rubber spring isolation were flatter than new OE types I got. So if the car sits high for a while, it's these. NOT the springs. Springs don't sag if made with decent quality.
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Last edited by Soravia; 12-08-2019 at 12:55 AM..
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      12-08-2019, 12:54 AM   #20
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Front axles came out easily with a large brass punch and 4 lb hammer on the flat angle edges. Replacements I'm getting from Turner Motorsports come with round parts where they go into the diff. But I don't see having to pull them out too soon in the future, until I have to replace the oil pan gasket or engine swap.
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      12-08-2019, 11:55 PM   #21
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Started work on the rear drive shaft. Guibo aka flex disc has cracks already at 60k miles. Bolts and nuts are single use so I bought replacement. Even after those are taken out, you have to pry out the guibo from differential input flange and the rear drive shaft flange because the metal bushing from guibo goes into the flange detents, and will be stuck from surface rust. Use a large pry bar and large flat head combined.
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Last edited by Soravia; 12-09-2019 at 12:54 AM..
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      12-09-2019, 12:57 AM   #22
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Rear drive shaft slides into middle drive shaft and retains connecting using a rubber boot. Push off the boot to disconnect.
Drive shaft hanger bearing is pressed into rear drive shaft and must be pressed out and in to replace.
At 60k miles, hanger bearing is looking worn.
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