[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

I am at 94,000 miles, car has been very well kept by the previous 5 owners, BMW has all the service records. I think at this point I am done with mods, I am happy where its at now. I would love to go single turbo, but I'll save that for another time.

Once I adjust the actuator rods my next priority is finding that tiny coolant leak somewhere on the driver side. I have a dye kit that glows under a black light, are those safe for bimmers?

Also going to need and replace the power steering reservoir and possibly some hoses. Ohh and the transmission pan

Power steering reservoir serves as a filter for the power steering fluid. You usually replace it when you flush the PS fluid (about every 50,000 miles). You can use Pentosin or completely flush the entire system 3-4x and use synthetic ATF (that's what I did). The lines.... there are 4 of them. 3 of them are reasonably priced and that is what 99% of people change out as a result. I just did mine, for the first time in 164,000 miles last month. The only tricky one is the line with a metal ring on it. You just have to make sure that you put new metal washers on each side of the metal ring when you put the bolt back in. The open ended hose that attaches to the pump itself is sort of a PITA to mount to the pump. I hate those pinch clamps. I rather much prefer a SS band clamp that has an 8mm screw on the end. That part makes it tedious trying to put a Phillips screwdriver in there tighten it down, but it's not too bad if you position the screw the right way.

You will need the special tool to get the hydraulic fittings off the power steering cooler. It's the same one you use for the transmission cooler. FCP has it for $13.00. Made by CTA. You push then pull if I remember correctly, in order to get the fitting off.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You are on OEM turbos. Adjust the rear screw 2.5 turns. Put white out on the screw so you know how many times you've turned it.

The front turbo requires you to take two no. 8 washers super glued together (make two sets) and cut them down so you have a U shape instead of a circle.

You have to loosen up the wastegate housing on the front turbo and fish the glued washers in between the wastegate housing & turbo and then tighten them back up. One bolt is top side & one bolt is fine from underneath the car. You use a telescopic magnet (pick up tool) to fish them in place.

Rear turbo -

Front turbo - page 4

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...=890145&page=4

I'm not a big fan of software adjustments. It's better to do it from a hardware standpoint

Adjusted both rods, 2.5 turns for the rear and two washers for the front. This was a lot easier than I anticipated. Rattle is absolutely gone, placed WG position back to default via JB4, can hear the turbos spin even under light acceleration, is it supposed to do that? Hit 17.5psi under WOT, seems too much on map1.

Other than that, car runs great and sounds beautiful.

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

The tiny coolant leak is probably the O ring in one of the fittings for the transmission cooler lines.

You will need a special tool to undo the hydraulic fittings.

Baum Tools B170030 BMW Transmission and Power Steering Oil Cooler Line Disconnect Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VAZQ8UU..._aupgDbCNSVEF1

As it turns out what I thought was coolant leak is actually power steering fluid, Ill have to replace the reservoir and some hoses.

[OTO335i]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Any leak before or after the turbo will trigger a 30ff code.

The fittings for the OEM inlets are really not on there all that tight. You could reach down behind the rear turbo and pull it off really easily. If you are running 16psi boost, that could easily blow off the fitting.

You'r first statement is half true, any leaks before the turbos will not trigger 30ff code since there is no maf sensor and there's no sensors from the airbox to the turbos.

[MadDog89]

Whelp my 30ff is back exhaust sounds louder than usual, definitely a boost leak somewhere.

Forgot to mention, I still hear the turbo spool.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by OTO335i

You'r first statement is half true, any leaks before the turbos will not trigger 30ff code since there is no maf sensor and there's no sensors from the airbox to the turbos.

So, there's not a MAP sensor in the charge pipe?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

Whelp my 30ff is back exhaust sounds louder than usual, definitely a boost leak somewhere.

Forgot to mention, I still hear the turbo spool.

Do a smoke test

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Do a smoke test

I'll do a pressure test tonight and see, hope it's not the wastegate just replaced all vacuum lines and both boost solenoids.

Is there something a smoke test can show that pressure test can't? I am just curious.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

I'll do a pressure test tonight and see, hope it's not the wastegate just replaced all vacuum lines and both boost solenoids.

Is there something a smoke test can show that pressure test can't? I am just curious.

I just like seeing where the leak is vs hearing where it is.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I just like seeing where the leak is vs hearing where it is.

Will a grape swisher work? Haha

[OTO335i]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

So, there's not a MAP sensor in the charge pipe?

Yes there is, that's why I said any leak before the turbos will not trigger a 30FF (from the airbox to the turbos) anything after the turbos can cause the code since the air is now compressed and the MAP sensor needs to read charged air.