[HomerSumpson]

Originally Posted by Monster900

I would go back to the shop which performed oil change and demand the resolution since they are the ones who made the mistake not installing o-ring back on.

I would but I have no proof. The oil pan was never dropped by the shop either

[arkie6]

Originally Posted by HomerSumpson

...The oil pan was never dropped by the shop either

Your oil pump suction strainer is likely clogged with pieces of the shredded belt which is causing the low oil pressure condition.

[HomerSumpson]

Originally Posted by arkie6

Your oil pump suction strainer is likely clogged with pieces of the shredded belt which is causing the low oil pressure condition.

Ok. Where do i buy a new one? I cant find anything about it online for the AWD 325

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by HomerSumpson

Ok. Where do i buy a new one? I cant find anything about it online for the AWD 325

You have evidence that your oil pressure is low: (1) Oil Pressure Warning Light, and (2) VANOS fault codes, BOTH cams too retarded.

I would:
1) Drain the oil from the sump and filter housing;
2) Remove the OZS (Oil Condition Sensor) at the rear of the pan;
3) Get a borescope or other means of inspecting the oil pickup screen at the rear of the sump, and inspect EVERYTHING you can get a view of with the scope, particularly the pickup screen.
4) Scrape/remove any belt shreds from the screen and from anywhere you can reach in the sump with forceps, chopsticks, suction device, whatever it takes.
5) Consult your friendly, local orthopaedist or other expert in arthroscopic surgery.

Time to get creative on ways to get belt debris OUT of the sump WITHOUT dropping the pan. Suction, such as with a vacuum pump used for evacuating A/C might be helpful used in conjunction with scope. With the correct technique and tools you could probably inspect & clean as well in an hour or two as you could with the pan dropped.

You're looking at HOURS to drop the pan on an X-drive, so it makes sense to get an "endoscope" inspection scope that you can use with your laptop, etc. Check Amazon for items such as this page:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=endoscope...ref=sr_nr_n_11

Anyone used one of these, and can give advice on how to insert & control to inspect different areas in crankcase?

George

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

You have evidence that your oil pressure is low: (1) Oil Pressure Warning Light, and (2) VANOS fault codes, BOTH cams too retarded.

I would:
1) Drain the oil from the sump and filter housing;
2) Remove the OZS (Oil Condition Sensor) at the rear of the pan;
3) Get a borescope or other means of inspecting the oil pickup screen at the rear of the sump, and inspect EVERYTHING you can get a view of with the scope, particularly the pickup screen.
4) Scrape/remove any belt shreds from the screen and from anywhere you can reach in the sump with forceps, chopsticks, suction device, whatever it takes.
5) Consult your friendly, local orthopaedist or other expert in arthroscopic surgery.

Time to get creative on ways to get belt debris OUT of the sump WITHOUT dropping the pan. Suction, such as with a vacuum pump used for evacuating A/C might be helpful used in conjunction with scope. With the correct technique and tools you could probably inspect & clean as well in an hour or two as you could with the pan dropped.

You're looking at HOURS to drop the pan on an X-drive, so it makes sense to get an "endoscope" inspection scope that you can use with your laptop, etc. Check Amazon for items such as this page:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=endoscope...ref=sr_nr_n_11

Anyone used one of these, and can give advice on how to insert & control to inspect different areas in crankcase?

George

George,

That’s a good suggestion. Maybe even one step father would be to use a hole saw and drill a 2” hole into the bottom of the pan near the pickup for access. Then after cleaning weld that 2” plug you removed back into place. The pan is just thin steel right?

[arkie6]

Originally Posted by HomerSumpson

Ok. Where do i buy a new one? I cant find anything about it online for the AWD 325

You don't buy one. You clean it. Which normally involves dropping the oil pan to get access to it. It is just a metal screen on the end of the tube that connects to the suction of your oil pump. Bits of the shredded belt block the holes in the screen which limits oil flow through the oil pump.

Here are some threads on the subject with pictures:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=768753

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=23

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1477111

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=28

[HomerSumpson]

Alright thanks for all the suggestions guys. Im gonna try the endoscope first then go from there. I appreciate all the help and ill post an update once I get it done.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

George,

That’s a good suggestion. Maybe even one step father would be to use a hole saw and drill a 2” hole into the bottom of the pan near the pickup for access. Then after cleaning weld that 2” plug you removed back into place. The pan is just thin steel right?

no.
the XI pan is aluminum and the driveshaft passes through it.

do not cut holes in it.

maybe you can get it through the condition sensor hole, but there's going to be places you can't see or access.

the pan needs to come off if you want any piece of mind about a random piece of belt just randomly killing your motor.

the shop that cleaned it out the first time should have known that. work a deal with them on the labor.
pray that you haven't wiped out the bearings.
which is something you check while you have the pan off.

[HomerSumpson]

I wanted to quickly update this in case anyone with a similar problem came upon this thread and to also update the people that helped out. After taking the oil pan off and cleaning the material out of the screen it seems the shop that helped retime it left it running on low oil pressure so I drained the oil and sure enough there was metal fragments. I dropped a new motor in and it works like new now. For people having the same issue as in belt got shredded please listen, DO NOT start the car till you have taken the pulley off and made sure all the belt fragments are out as they can easily get wrapped around that and are hard to see. If you replace the belt and still have problems don't go down the rabbit hole like I did. If the timing is off and it wont start or theres low oil pressure your best bet is to replace the engine which I know costs a lot but at the same time you'll spend the same or more trying to diagnose each of these issues and it still might be a lost cause. For how much of a headache this was I honestly hope this doesn't happen to anyone else.