[ward]

Originally Posted by mantisG35

that's more like what i was thinking
you know of a dealer i can contact? my car is already building, do you know if i have to still get it thru the same dealer?

your car is being built and you're still attempting to negotiate on price

[!Xoible]

Originally Posted by ward

your car is being built and you're still attempting to negotiate on price

Yes. I trusted the sales person (family friend -- mistake on my behalf) so I called him with the specs, he placed the order and told me to come later to discuss numbers.
I guess he thinks he can give me any price he wants and i'd take it since i already placed an order (bad business on his behalf).
I am willing to take my deposit back if I get a better deal. The deal was that I can take the deposit back if i want.

i admit i made a mistake, but i want to correct it even if i have to make another mistake to correct it! do you not agree?

[!Xoible]

Originally Posted by Coldintake

First, your MF is WAY Too high.. The buy rate for july is .002, and dealers can increase it a max of .0004. And you don't need to pay that.

I don't have time to type why your deal is so bad.. but at 50k and 0 down, your payments will hover around 770 or so.

whenever you have time if u wanna PM me with where i can get such a deal please do. thanks!

[!Xoible]

the best deal i have got so far is $3000 drive off including first month's payment, and $785 (including 7.75% tax) a month for 36 months with 15k miles a year.

I have got the same price from multiple sales persons
good/bad?

[drwtsn32]

Originally Posted by mantisG35

the best deal i have got so far is $3000 drive off including first month's payment, and $785 (including 7.75% tax) a month for 36 months with 15k miles a year.

I have got the same price from multiple sales persons
good/bad?

Depends... is the $3000 a cap cost reduction or is it multiple security deposits? To tell if you got a good deal, we need to know the money factor, residual value, purchase price (cap cost), and MSRP.

[!Xoible]

Originally Posted by drwtsn32

Depends... is the $3000 a cap cost reduction or is it multiple security deposits? To tell if you got a good deal, we need to know the money factor, residual value, purchase price (cap cost), and MSRP.

Selling price is $50,075.00 (at MSRP). Residual is 58%, MF is 0.0022.
cap reduction is 1,638

the $3000 is:
Capital Reduction $1,638.04
Cap Reduction Tax (7.75%) $130.44
License & Registration $395.75
Documentation Fee $45.00
First Payment $790.77
Security Deposit $0.00
total Drive Off $3,000.00


more info as i got:
Lender BMW Financial Services
Term 36 Months
Mileage 15,000/year
Money Factor 2.2
Residual Factor 58%
Selling Price $50,075.00
Bank Fee $825.00
Total Capitalized Cost $50,900.00
Residual Value $29,043.50
Total Depreciation $20,218.46
Capital Reduction $1,638.04
Monthly Depreciation $561.62
Monthly Rent $172.27
Monthly Payment $733.90
Tax (7.75%) $56.88
Monthly Payment + Tax $790.77

[Coldintake]

Ok.. first, the 15k is killing you. Next, tell the dealership you will pay BUY rate ONLY. It's painful enough they aren't going below MSRP, but charging more than the BUY rate is ridiculous.
Besides that, your MSRP is simply too high. Try to knock off some options if they aren't crucial. 800 a month for a 3 series is getting crazy.

Oh you said family friend? Tell him to fuck himself for raising the buy rate.

[!Xoible]

yah im starting to question the worthiness of the car. I might just hold off until A5/S5/G37/C class comes out so the 3 series market goes down.
i think i can get a nice-ass porsche for 800 a month.

dang it, why's everybody trying to get the car i want?!

thanks man

[BimmerFan61]

why are you paying msrp? You can get $1500 off that easy.

Premium, NAV, Sport package, ipod adapter

$675/ month with $800 down