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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Bilstein B8



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      09-20-2016, 02:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david in germany View Post
I think some people get different info from the US bilstien site vs Bilstien Europe. I contacted the in the original language and they told me B4 for non sport Oem replacement. B6 is the equivalent for replacement of Msport/sport suspension and B8 is for the replacement of the BMW Performance setup. I asked directly because I wanted the recommended dampers for my Oem BMW performance springs on my E87. Bottom line, B8 with the performance springs are an amazing combo.
Once again, read the application manual.
If you put a B8 on anything with a lower than stock suspension (this includes m-Sport) it is not the right shock.

The B8 will keep you M-Sport suspension at the correct ride height.
The B8 and the B6 are the same damper with one being shorter to match shorter springs. If you use a B6 you will preload the damper and will not get the full range.

People can do what they want, but I suggest everyone read the application guide.

There are two versions of the B4. (one for stock height cars and one for lower cars, M-Sport, etc.)

The B6 is a HD shock for standard rider height.
The B8 is a sport shock for lowered cars.

I have B8's on M-Sport springs and the combination is great.
I have only heard complaints about B6 with M-Sport springs because it will change the ride height.
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      09-20-2016, 05:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techwhiz View Post
Once again, read the application manual.
If you put a B8 on anything with a lower than stock suspension (this includes m-Sport) it is not the right shock.

The B8 will keep you M-Sport suspension at the correct ride height.
The B8 and the B6 are the same damper with one being shorter to match shorter springs. If you use a B6 you will preload the damper and will not get the full range.

People can do what they want, but I suggest everyone read the application guide.

There are two versions of the B4. (one for stock height cars and one for lower cars, M-Sport, etc.)

The B6 is a HD shock for standard rider height.
The B8 is a sport shock for lowered cars.

I have B8's on M-Sport springs and the combination is great.
I have only heard complaints about B6 with M-Sport springs because it will change the ride height.
Techwiz, I think you may be on to something here...
Per forum norms (at the time), I fitted my 2006 330i Sport with the HD shocks.
The suspension felt great, except for a minuscule (but aggravating) amount of vertical bounce, in the front suspension. Generally, body control was tight and firm. But that slight bit of bob in the front, over anything but the smoothest of surfaces was perplexing. I had new shocks, control arms, and strut mounts. I retained the OEM sport springs. I just couldn't fathom why Billstein wouldn't tune out that bit of extra motion.

Perhaps this would not have been an issue if I was using the shorter B8 shocks.
That being said, the Bilsteins had a bit of hop/bounce in the rear too on the HDs. This was more significant than the slight movement of the front though. Ultimately, the rear was tamed by adding a set of Dinan strut mounts to the rear. It was then rock solid. But the front was still left ever so slightly too inclined to small oscillations.

I traded that car for a 5 series, but I now wonder if the B8s would have been a better fit and negating the need for the Dinans at the rear while perfecting the front too. If I still had that car, I'd be swapping my HD for B8s right now.
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      09-21-2016, 04:48 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thakid22 View Post
Techwiz, I think you may be on to something here...
Per forum norms (at the time), I fitted my 2006 330i Sport with the HD shocks.
The suspension felt great, except for a minuscule (but aggravating) amount of vertical bounce, in the front suspension. Generally, body control was tight and firm. But that slight bit of bob in the front, over anything but the smoothest of surfaces was perplexing. I had new shocks, control arms, and strut mounts. I retained the OEM sport springs. I just couldn't fathom why Billstein wouldn't tune out that bit of extra motion.

Perhaps this would not have been an issue if I was using the shorter B8 shocks.
That being said, the Bilsteins had a bit of hop/bounce in the rear too on the HDs. This was more significant than the slight movement of the front though. Ultimately, the rear was tamed by adding a set of Dinan strut mounts to the rear. It was then rock solid. But the front was still left ever so slightly too inclined to small oscillations.

I traded that car for a 5 series, but I now wonder if the B8s would have been a better fit and negating the need for the Dinans at the rear while perfecting the front too. If I still had that car, I'd be swapping my HD for B8s right now.
My car has none of what you describe.
My car has no bouncy feel front or rear and is just plain planted.
The ride height hasn't changed and the alignment was as easy as stock.
People can do what they want but I have done the research and supplied the Bilstein data from their application manual.
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      10-30-2016, 06:25 PM   #26
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is anyone running B12 with 245/275 tires? Any rubbing?
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      10-31-2016, 10:31 PM   #27
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After reading this thread, talking to Bilstein and common scene from a few years experience I put a set of B8 sport shocks on my 335is.
I was confused by Turner and some other venders stating B6 heavy duty shocks to be correct for sport suspension but as stated above, check the application with the manufacture.

I was surprised to find with 52K on this car the front shocks were toast!
Also to find the stock Sachs gas shocks were shorter than the Bilstiens by a few inches although the worn Sachs shock rod could be pulled out of the tube with some pretty good force applied, it relaxed to overall shorter length.
And as stated before, the ride is just what was needed to bring this car to what it had lost and fix the quirks that bothered me in the way my car drove, handled and dealt with higher speed un-even road situations.

Bottom line, if you have sport suspension and do not want your car any lower, B8 Sports are just the ticket.

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      02-04-2017, 06:27 AM   #28
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Guys, for M sport suspension when installing Bilsteins B8 what else should I buy? I was thinking getting new top mounts, do I need bump stops as well?

I will keep the M sport springs.
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      02-04-2017, 08:04 PM   #29
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no bumpstops needed, the bilsteins have them. the fronts are internal, the rears are underneath the dustcovers. you should get new rubber spring pads, top hats and maybe endlinks for the fronts. for the rears get new upper shock bushings.
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      02-04-2017, 10:48 PM   #30
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Was wondering how does the Koni Yellows compare with the bilstein b8s.
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      02-05-2017, 05:47 AM   #31
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I have heard Konis are more comfortable, maybe someone can confirm.
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      02-10-2017, 10:44 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techwhiz View Post
I'm using B8 to replace the shock in my 335 with sport suspension.
I think it's the springs. No issues with the sport suspension springs.
This is correct. I ran b8s with prokit and it was garbage - slamming into bump stops all the time. Then I went back to stock springs and no more ride quality issues. There's a ton of rebound on the b8s-- so much so that I pick up a wheel and have the car tripod in corners--on stock springs, sways and only uhp tires.

B8s out perform many shocks in that price range. They cannot be over lowered. The ride height with prokit is in a good range but the spring rates aren't. Prokit is essentially the BMW sport spring rate but without the preload. The stock springs are preloaded a ton! So although the rates are the same, it takes more force to get them to compress at the initial part of the travel...ultimately mitigating slamming into the bump stops in most situations. Your typical lowering spring has negligeable preload
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Last edited by boro92; 02-10-2017 at 10:55 PM..
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      07-12-2017, 10:49 AM   #33
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Is it necessary to change also the subframe bushings to M3 bushings? I heard people saying that after installing the B8 shocks the rear feels unstable.
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      07-12-2017, 01:33 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vladmury View Post
Is it necessary to change also the subframe bushings to M3 bushings? I heard people saying that after installing the B8 shocks the rear feels unstable.
What? Where did you read (hear) that ?

Just do this:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1145344
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      07-13-2017, 08:50 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vladmury View Post
Is it necessary to change also the subframe bushings to M3 bushings? I heard people saying that after installing the B8 shocks the rear feels unstable.
Not true.

I have the B12 kit.

I think the M3 subframe bushings and the M3 differential bushings are a perfect compliment to the B12 kit.

If I were to make a hierarchy of what to next after installing a B12 kit, it would be :

* I am assuming you replaced all the surrounding hardware.

1) m3 control arms front & back
2) tie rods
3) rear lower toe arms
4) m3 subframe bushings
5) m3 differential bushings
6) replace every bushing that are in control arms which are in the hub or subframe
7) front & rear swaybar bushings
8) Hotchkiss adjustable swaybar links
9) Transmission bushings
10) engine mounts (335is)
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      07-13-2017, 10:47 PM   #36
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Your #2 is tie rods? Srsly? Might as well add floor mats to the list too.

Transmission mounts should also be way higher on the list given that they are cheap, can be swapped in ~15 minutes or less, and actually make an appreciable difference.

Also, the only m3 pieces that make a difference in the rear are the guide rods...the other arms in that kit are a waste of time/money.
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      07-15-2017, 06:06 PM   #37
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I have a 325d with 250 hp and its far away fron a sports car, I just want to eliminate the bounce, body roll and damping of the stock m sport suspension.

My list of priorities :
1. M3 subframe bushings
2. M3 control arms

I am in doubt if M3 subframe bushings are worth considering the high labour costs or save money and refresh whole front suspension instead.

Car has 80 k miles.
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      07-15-2017, 08:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vladmury View Post
I am in doubt if M3 subframe bushings are worth considering the high labour costs or save money and refresh whole front suspension instead.
Are you confident that you could add subframe inserts in the rear yourself? Might be a good compromise.
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      07-16-2017, 05:51 AM   #39
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Well I did not considered the inserts but I dont have the tools neither the place to make this job, so I will prefer the M3 bushings.
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      07-20-2017, 04:58 PM   #40
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I have Bilstien B8 Performance plus shocks, Dinan springs, and M3 control arms.

I've driven right around 1,000 miles in Sault Ste. Marie, MI on crappy roads and nothing was noticeably bad it definitely was firm and car felt more solid but nothing jarring. I have noticed with this shock and spring setup I have no more wheel chattering/hopping when I spin rear tires and no more track light coming on when rear end goes over cracks on freeway or onramp while accelerating with run flat tires on the car.

The 1000 mile trip back down to Birmingham AL for me was not bad either. There was a 10mile stretch of freeway around Grayling Mi were the concrete had such slight waves not visible to the naked eye that with the stiff springs and shocks it didn't really compress the suspension along that stretch of road and was more of a slight bouncing feeling I wanted to blow my brains out lol, but other then that the entire trip down to Birmingham was great and I have been in Birmingham driving for about 500mi now and found the car rides better then it did new on the same roads less bounce, wheel hop, and chatter under regular driving and acceleration. Ive also noticed going over freeway expansion joints the car has a more solid feel instead the impact/blown strut feel with shuddering like my 335i seemed to have new and my 550i currently has in all suspension settings.
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      07-26-2017, 01:02 PM   #41
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I read that Eibach Pro Kit are not preloaded and not recommended for pairing with B8s. I want to lower the car additional 15 mm, what other springs are recommended for 30/25 mm lowering?

Has anyone tried H&R?
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      07-26-2017, 01:38 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by vladmury View Post
I read that Eibach Pro Kit are not preloaded and not recommended for pairing with B8s.
Where did you read that? That makes absolutely no sense...if that were true, the B12 kit wouldn't exist.
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      07-26-2017, 02:06 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boro92 View Post
This is correct. I ran b8s with prokit and it was garbage - slamming into bump stops all the time. Then I went back to stock springs and no more ride quality issues. There's a ton of rebound on the b8s-- so much so that I pick up a wheel and have the car tripod in corners--on stock springs, sways and only uhp tires.

B8s out perform many shocks in that price range. They cannot be over lowered. The ride height with prokit is in a good range but the spring rates aren't. Prokit is essentially the BMW sport spring rate but without the preload. The stock springs are preloaded a ton! So although the rates are the same, it takes more force to get them to compress at the initial part of the travel...ultimately mitigating slamming into the bump stops in most situations. Your typical lowering spring has negligeable preload
Some people reported that including in this post
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      07-28-2017, 04:03 AM   #44
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I will install the bilstein b8 with sport springs, M3 control arms, new tie rods, M3 subframe bushings and powerflex top mounts for the rear shocks. At 80k miles I want to give the suspension a good referesh. I will comeback with impressions after install in the next weeks
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