[vxracer]

I was about to order the Bimmergeeks Pro K+DCAN. But, then I thought of something. I can order it with a type-C usb connector for my phone. Which would be great or most things. And I think I will go that route.

However, I also have a 17" laptop and prefer pc usage. And I have read that INPA is also a useful software. But, would require a standard USB cable. And the pc is not with me at all times.

Just asking what the other E90 drivers out there seems to be the best cable, connector, device choices. etc.

The main reason I am pursuing the purchases are a battery drain issue, a minor whirring noise from the serpentine belt area now, and I disabled the olding mirrors which seemed to have delayed sleep mode. I thought I had the dead battery issue resolved. The previous owner says it is new. But, the new whirring sound has me considering the alternator

*** As far as I know the car was never programmed for a new battery. Which we all know is an issue. I am supposed to get a reply soon where it was purchased, and maybe under warranty.

When I get my OBD2 cable, and all else fails. Autozone has a 900 amp AGM battery or 250 bucs, reprogram the car, and call it a day.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by vxracer

Just asking what the other E90 drivers out there seems to be the best cable, connector, device choices. etc.

Your laptop doesn't have a USB-C port?

I'm not familiar with the latest and greatest cable but a few years ago there were only a handful of reputable K+DCAN cables and they all had USB type A connectors.

I used a Type A to Type C adapter to connect to my phone. They're cheap.

[vxracer]

That seems perfect, thanks. Then I will decide whether to get the type-C cable for my immediate needs and use the Bimmergeeks app. Then, consider an adaptor and tinker with INPA later. My laptop only has the standard type A. I am sure there are adaptors or all the plug types. Maybe I will find a universal multi-port USB box and get it. Never looked or one before.

[Cal122]

The Pro cable comes as USB-A. If you select the Android adapter during checkout (either USB-C or Micro-USB), they'll include a small converter adapter which will convert the cable from USB-A to either USB-C or Micro.

[vxracer]

Great, thanks! Then that is the solution. Order the type-C and be able to use phone or pc. But, is the cable compatible with other software, of does Bimmergeeks have Android and pc software?

[Cal122]

Cable will work with other software such as INPA or ISTA too. Easiest is just to get their Android software for either diagnostic, coding or both licenses. Be sure to check out the coding sub-forum for more info.

[vxracer]

Yikes, 150 dollars plus 50 for the cable. I would like to have full abilities at some point. But, is there a cheaper and easier way to just reset for the battery for now?

[Cloverdale]

Originally Posted by vxracer

Yikes, 150 dollars plus 50 for the cable. I would like to have full abilities at some point. But, is there a cheaper and easier way to just reset for the battery for now?

I suspect you may not be familiar with how incredibly complex / convoluted the process of coding a battery using INPA (which also requires the use of NCS Expert) is. Coding the battery is not going to resolve your suspected battery drain issue and using INPA is not going to assist you with diagnosing the source of a potential parasitic electrical drain. Only if your current battery is being dramatically over or under charged will battery life be impacted significantly. If your battery's routinely unable to start the car, test your battery and alternator.

[vxracer]

I just know it wasn't coded. And thought it would help. As I sort other issues. Best plan, is to buy a portable jump-starter pack so I have reliable transportation, I guess. Then, plan forward.

Maybe I need a multi-pronged approach. I live in a remote area and just bought the car from a friend in another state. Limited diagnostics at the moment. So, my strategy.

1. Get a jump starter pack. I have umper cables, but rarely a convenient vehicle nearby or routine work commutes.
2. Get somewhere to test, or buy something simple like an OBDII scanner or USB cable.
3. Find a simple software at first to read and clear codes. Possiby battery reset, invest in Bimmergeeks products when really needed.
4. My instinct is saying two things, that randomly the car does not go to sleep. I did snip the olding mirror wires and that seemed to work ever since. Also, the key fob seems easy to have buttons pressed while in my pocket. And, the whirring noise I suspect in the front of the engine is the alternator. If it gets worse, then problem solved. Replace it. The new battery shoudnt be the main issue, it seems.