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      11-12-2019, 10:32 AM   #1
MadJoe
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Options Swapping

Hi all,

I currently have a decently optioned 2006 325i with all 3 packages, xenon headlights, comfort access, and factory alarm system. It has just shy of 190,000 miles. The transmission badly needs to be rebuilt, the flywheel has recently shit its grease, and there's myriad other little things that need attention that have me looking at new-to-me cars. I keep finding low mileage 2006 325i's at great prices, but they never have any options, or barely any except AWD and the winter package (since I live where it snows and people are ridiculously predictable).

So my specific questions are:
Would it be possible to install my xenons into a car that didn't come with them and still retain full function? If so, how much work would be involved?

Regarding comfort access: same questions.

Regarding "downgrading" from AWD: would that cause errors?

Could I swap my original car's computer into the new car to get the xenons, and comfort access working, and make it think it was supposed to be 2WD? Would that be easy, or require coding, or simply not possible at all?

Thanks in advance,
Joe
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      11-12-2019, 12:19 PM   #2
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Xenon swap is possible by swapping wiring, headlights and then coding. Search E90 xenon retrofit. Same for comfort access. Alarm is pre-wired in older cars so that is a factory retrofit with instructions available via web search. You may want to consider am 06 330ix which has many options standard.

There is no need to swap the cars computer for most retrofits. Coding can do most things. I am not sure what you are asking regarding AWD.
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      11-12-2019, 01:04 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply.

I guess I'm assuming if I remove the unnecessary weight from the AWD components, would the car throw codes as it no longer sensed a transfer case or the front axles turning.
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      11-12-2019, 02:44 PM   #4
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Why not just rebuild the trans or get a used one. You have to pull it to replace the flywheel. The other minor things are... minor.
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      11-12-2019, 04:08 PM   #5
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Look at the DIY/retrofitting/coding section of this forum, there's detailed guides on all of that
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      11-12-2019, 05:13 PM   #6
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Look for a 330 in that year they generally come with more options.
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      11-12-2019, 05:28 PM   #7
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What they said. Also xDelete is thing. AWD only adds around 180 lbs, and its great during snow. So you can run full RWD, theres a sport option, a snow, and a custom option
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      11-14-2019, 10:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Why not just rebuild the trans or get a used one. You have to pull it to replace the flywheel. The other minor things are... minor.
Mainly because the mileage on mine has me afraid there's possibly something serious lurking in the engine. It isn't that I want to replace her, it's that I'm sure I'll need to soon.
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      11-14-2019, 11:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadJoe View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Why not just rebuild the trans or get a used one. You have to pull it to replace the flywheel. The other minor things are... minor.
Mainly because the mileage on mine has me afraid there's possibly something serious lurking in the engine. It isn't that I want to replace her, it's that I'm sure I'll need to soon.
You just replied to the man who has nearly 400k miles on his 325.
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      11-15-2019, 05:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadJoe View Post
Mainly because the mileage on mine has me afraid there's possibly something serious lurking in the engine. It isn't that I want to replace her, it's that I'm sure I'll need to soon.
The N52 is barely broken in at 190,000 if it has been reasonably maintained. What is the oil consumption like? What has been the maintenance schedule? Worst case do a compression test and a leak-down test if you want to get an idea of the health of the engine. I can't think of anyone on this Forum who has reported an N52 going tits up in less than 200,000 miles while the engine was maintained in accordance with BMW specs.

I still run the piss out of my N52 at literally double your mileage. This year alone I had a new AC pump installed and I just DIY'd the spark plugs, CCV rebuild, and new starter in the last few weeks; about $1,500 all totaled up. I don't replace my E90 at it's mileage with a used lower mileage one because I know what's in my car (I bought it new). Starting out with a lower mileage E90 for me gets me into a whole lot of unknowns and headed for repairs I've already been through (twice in some cases ).

If your flywheel went bad, it means you have a manual transmission. Why does the transmission need to be rebuilt? What symptoms does it have?
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 11-15-2019 at 05:22 AM..
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      11-15-2019, 09:42 AM   #11
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The synchro on 4th gear is toast, grinds going in 90%of the time unless I specifically think about my speed and revs before shifting. This happened about 8 years ago when my foot slipped off the clutch as I was aggressively accelerating and upshifting into 4th. The noise was horrendous and it's never been the same since. I brought it to the dealer and they said it'd need to be rebuilt, or I could drive it for years if I didn't do any hard driving. Except I can't not hard drive (which is why I'm so amazed that the clutch is still original, honestly) but it's still lasted, so these transmissions are pretty amazingly tough. Just another reason why I'd replace mine with another E90 if I had to, really.

The oil consumption varies. It got really bad right after I replaced the oil pan, like a qt a week, maybe even a few days. I was constantly getting under the car and removing the aero plate to see where the hell all my oil was going, but there was none to be found. At that rate, with no visible leaking and no smoke from the exhaust, I even checked to make sure the coolant wasn't full of oil (obviously it wasn't). I have no idea where it went. But about 3-4 quarts into that madness, it finally slowed down to about a quart every 800 miles or so. Now it's probably going 1k between extra quarts, but that whole experience was nerve wracking to put it mildly. I was in the middle of a divorce with no access to my tools or garage, and no money to bring it to a shop because lawyers are leaches. I wish these things had a physical dipstick, because the oil level indicator going bad was in the back of my mind, but it wasn't running funny or burning oil, so I'm sure it isn't overfull. Is there a way to check that without draining it? I'd love to know because that idea is still in the back of my head.

But you're right, the N52 is practically bullet proof. Maybe I'm overreacting. This car has served me awesomely for the past 14 years, I shouldn't give up on it now.

You said you did your own spark plugs, did it take anything more than the special tool for getting at the back plug under the cowl? I've had that in my wishlist on Amazon for years, but I've only ever needed to change plugs once and just had the mechanic do it because I was having bad coil packs replaced anyway. Those I could have done too, but at the time I needed my car asap and he had all the parts in hand ready to go on. That was an expensive lesson, lol.

I appreciate all the feedback guys, thanks. I'm more confident in my car lasting longer now, but I'm still going to schedule a leakdown and compression check with my mechanic (since I still don't have all my tools yet). Hopefully he'll have good news for me. Wish me luck!
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      11-15-2019, 11:34 AM   #12
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I'm pretty sure retrofitting comfort access is, not impossible, but difficult due to getting keys paired to the car, programming the VIN in the CAS, etc.

I would just service the car you have.
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