[scottp999]

Originally Posted by SRanch335i

Yes. I'm going with the RBs.

Welcome to the RB club, you will be very happy.

[ar design]

Originally Posted by tscdennab

Shouldn't happen on the heavy OEM dual-mass steel flywheel.

Ive seen it happen..

[cleex024]

well that would suck lol...so which clutch would you recommend there ar? for about 450 rwhp

[ttbmer]

So people say HPF clutch is solid, some others like AR says be careful not to get it so hot, some with act clutch says is great some other no so much, and so on u get the point. The performance online market is do shady. So confuse now on wa clutch to get. I'm not going with After market turbos. I really enjoy my car the way it is not FBO plus PWM meth kit. I just need a better clutch

[EastBayE90]

Originally Posted by ttbmer

So people say HPF clutch is solid, some others like AR says be careful not to get it so hot, some with act clutch says is great some other no so much, and so on u get the point. The performance online market is do shady. So confuse now on wa clutch to get. I'm not going with After market turbos. I really enjoy my car the way it is not FBO plus PWM meth kit. I just need a better clutch

I agree there are a lot of options. For the price I think act is the way to go but honestly I am very interested in how this HPF clutch turns out. I am keeping a watchful eye on these review threads. If HPF seems to be holding out without issues I will fork out the extra cash for this clutch.

[XPO186]

LOL, I was asking what STAGE you went with.

^^^LOL stands for "Laughing Out Loud"

[runthis]

I am very hopeful for the HPF I've had the ACT organic, loved it ( Drove like stock w/ better pedal pressure ) but after it went, they said my car was AWD and I should have went pucked... Now I have a ceramic 6 Puck and it's driving me crazy. Ordering HPF and RB Friday.

[scottp999]

Originally Posted by runthis

Ordering HPF and RB Friday.

Great. Welcome to the RB club. Please consider doing a review of the HPF clutch for us when you have time.

[SRanch335i]

Originally Posted by runthis

I am very hopeful for the HPF I've had the ACT organic, loved it ( Drove like stock w/ better pedal pressure ) but after it went, they said my car was AWD and I should have went pucked... Now I have a ceramic 6 Puck and it's driving me crazy. Ordering HPF and RB Friday.

IMO: the 6 puck is great if your car is racecar only and not a daily driver. The commitment to the clutch engagement is pretty unforgiving.

So far 300 miles on the HPF and it drives great.

[Robert@vishnu]

Great Review!!! Let me know when you are ready or want more power to be pushed through that clutch!!

Cheers,
Robert@Vishnu

[HPF Chris]

Originally Posted by ar design

Just be careful to not get the clutch super hot, ferramic clutches like to weld themselves to flywheels...

The feramic material we use in our clutches has a melting point of 1400 degrees which is much higher than most other clutches out there. It will resist fusing to a point but as with any material if you heat it up enough it will melt then fuse as it's cooling.

Consider all the ways a clutch disk can get too hot. All reasons require the disk to slip to get it hot.

1) Person accidentally resting foot on clutch when holding brake pedal during burnout. Most people don't realize they are doing this but it is common.
2) Low rpm burnout when brake is used and/or sticky tires. Low rpms can still create tons of boost however the rpms are needed by the pressure plate to add additional clamp load.
3) Too long to release clutch when starting burnout.
4) Excessive slipping of the clutch when leaving the bleach box before staging.
5) Too long partially engaging the clutch during pre-stage.
6) Too long to engage the clutch when coming out of the hole.
7) Too much torque for the clutch to hold.

Any one of these can fuse a clutch. Do all 7 and it's pretty much a guarantee.

During normal driving and drag racing launches (where you are careful not to do 1-7 above), you will be safe with up to 600ft-lbs and 700rwhp.

Chris.

[Zeph]

Can't wait to see this clutch in action on a drag race... more specifically does it eliminate the dreaded "delay" especially when shifting from 3rd to 4th which many of us have assumed is related to slippage and the DME cutting power?

Otherwise, I really don't feel my clutch ever slip and I put down 387/423 at the dyno. Then again, maybe it does "slip" but the DME senses and actively prevents it

I don't think tune is related because this happened for me stock, SSTT, Cobb stage 1, and now stage 2+. I have the CDV modded (valve removed internally) as well.

Zeph

[runthis]

Did you take a picture of the clutch disc itself?

[Justin@ADVAN Performance]

Originally Posted by runthis

Did you take a picture of the clutch disc itself?

Hey runthis,

FYI.

Cheers,

JD.

[runthis]

Thanks, JD

[guidance]

Originally Posted by ar design

Just be careful to not get the clutch super hot, ferramic clutches like to weld themselves to flywheels...

Have you seen it happen to a N54 w/ a HPF feramic?

[HPF Chris]

The material used to make our HPF clutch is very expensive. It is also very hard to get. It has the highest heat resistance of any other clutch material made today with a coefficient of 0.7. This coefficient also doesn't change with temperature as many clutches do until after 900 degrees. It also has a super high melting point of 1600 degrees.

[guidance]

Originally Posted by HPF Chris

The material used to make our HPF clutch is very expensive. It is also very hard to get. It has the highest heat resistance of any other clutch material made today with a coefficient of 0.7. This coefficient also doesn't change with temperature as many clutches do until after 900 degrees. It also has a super high melting point of 1600 degrees.

Thanks Chris,

When I spoke to a HPF sales guy in early April (sorry don't remember his name) he stated in no uncertain terms the feramic will weld when drag racing & that he done it himself in a non N54 car and suggested to go twin disc. I went w/ a Clutch Masters FX300 and it lasted 2 months & 1 pass at the strip before it was totally gone. I mean no torque at all, go home on a flatbed.


Still allured by the feramic I spoke w/ Erik who explained only one N54 welded because it wasn't broken in and assured me it would be right for drag racing & tracking. So I installed & broke in your Stage 2 feramic w/ a new DMF a month ago, tracked it all last weekend. Very happy so far & it feels as close to stock.

Yes, I read your 7 ways to fuse a clutch. Just looking for some first hand feedback on N54's w/ a HPF feramic since I'm going to the strip this month. Will be letting it rip w/ some MT drag radials and "Ernies Towing" number on speed dial.

[runthis]

I've done about 10-15 passes at the strip, and no issues with my feramics clutch.

[Justin@ADVAN Performance]

Originally Posted by runthis

I've done about 10-15 passes at the strip, and no issues with my feramics clutch.

Were you running street tyres or drag radials?

[SRanch335i]

I did about 6 passes in a Shift Sector 1/2 mile roll on event with no issues. Then I did 1/4 miles (4 runs) still with no issues. All races were with Hoosier DRs.

Going on 3500 miles with no issues and just recently started NLS and 2step launches at 3500rpm. Will keep updating. So far clutch is awesome.

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by guidance

I went w/ a Clutch Masters FX300 and it lasted 2 months & 1 pass at the strip before it was totally gone. I mean no torque at all, go home on a flatbed.

I also had a Clutch Masters FX300 for a few weeks. Slipped in high gear, lots of juddering in engagement.

Threw it out a few weeks a go, HPF Feramice stage 1 it is now. Still judders at engagement, but no slippage at all. Stock flywheel.

Alpina_B3_Lux