Dealing with the alphabet soup EGR/DPF/SCR

Mik325tds · 02-02-2016, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

That would be appreciated. Think there are several of us who have considered this but were concerned about sufficient EGT's to get good conversion... I'd be interested in seeing some EGT vs "smell" data. But I'm not quite sure how that would be done. Do you have a wife you could strap to the bumper area for some real time feedback?

Ha! Not quite strap and not quite my wife. But I did have my girlfriend hold rags in the exhaust tips while I was trying to find leaks in the DP connections. She didn't appreciate that too much...

Mik325tds · 02-02-2016, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Cool.

BB_Cuda is right about my interest. I typically cruise at 55-60 with EGT's barely above 400F, and it's lower in town traffic or at idle. That's the main scenario I'm interested in. 350-400F seems low compared to graphs of converter lightoff temps I've seen.

For example: http://www.blackthorn.net/diesel-engines/

That matches my measurements. I've seen temps lower than 200°C on idle and around 215°C cruising on the highway. I think it is hydro-carbons that mainly produce the smell, so even with a low-temp cat we can only expect around 20-30% smell reduction at idle. If that theory holds true, then it wouldn't be worth it in my opinion.
What's the subjective assessment of those who have it?

Mik325tds · 02-02-2016, 06:31 PM

This paper suggests we all get "vertical stacks as high as possible".

DWR · 02-02-2016, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

This paper suggests we all get "vertical stacks as high as possible".

Yeah, but the wind resistance is monsterous.

Thecastle · 02-02-2016, 07:21 PM

Naw all we need is this mod, to be emissions compliant.

BEWWWM · 02-03-2016, 06:52 AM

That Volvo is cool, never seen one drive on a beach before.

JOHNNYBRAVO1 · 03-12-2016, 09:22 PM

How did you get to the 2 upper motor mount bolts under the DPF fiter. It's being such a pain in the butt. I've looked on ISTA-P and D and still killing my brain.. I got the full PROFI SS exhaust and BPC stage 2+ ready to install with meth but getting to those 2 upper bolts off the mount is just getting me mad.

Should I also replace all the 1/4 vacu hoses? They look dry and brittle. I was think of clear hose with DEI thermal wrap. This has been an absolute great write up and has helped so much.

locolobo · 03-13-2016, 08:27 AM

Johnny,

If you first loosen the DPF and raise the engine about 2 cm, you should be able to reach the 4 bolts into the block. I got a couple from above and 1 or 2 from below (can't remember). Yes it is a pain but it can be done. In my case I removed the entire engine mount base, but I'm not sure you have to do that.

locolobo · 03-13-2016, 09:32 AM

A few takeaways from completing this job almost entirely myself:

1. You can do it yourself on jack stands. Remove everything from above before jacking up, including loosening v-band clamp and unplugging DPF sensors. Pull off (if you can) or cut the pressure differential sensor hoses.

2. Raise car at least 20 inches from floor. 14 inches is not enough for comfort.

3. Remove the entire exhaust. The pipe was already cut and clamped in the back from when BMW replaced the SCR tank under warranty. So for me removing the exhaust was only the 2 clamps, 4 support bolts, and the two bolts that connect to the DPF downpipe. To mod the SCR box, cut 3 of 4 sides of a rectangle, and on the 4th side make a perforated cut. The 4th side holds the flap in the correct position for rewelding.

4. A small bottle jack makes controlling raising the engine a lot easier. If you disconnect the red boost hose you can raise it a bit more

5. If you need to replace the fuel filter, do it while you're doing this job.

6. As others have mentioned, bag the unused connectors and zip tie.

7. When removing the DPF canister, be careful not to abrade the sensor wires. It's easy to get frustrated, but it will come out.

BB_cuda · 03-13-2016, 02:19 PM

Don't, repeat don't take DPF loose until you get bracket off and out. You will have two things in each other's way. The main reason to jack up engine is to get the right side of bracket up off top of mount. Personally, I left band clamp alone until bracket was out.
I did job with rest of exhaust left in place. It does help if you loosen the exhaust bracket at trans location. This gives you wiggle to line up vband clamp and rear 2 bolt flange of downpipe.

I used a whole bunch of long extensions hooked together for a couple of the bracket bolts.

HeatherM35d · 03-13-2016, 07:50 PM

Bb cuda is correct..leave v-band for last

locolobo · 03-13-2016, 07:53 PM

My bad; I loosened it first. Maybe this made things harder. At least now the DIY is clear as to the sequence.

HeatherM35d · 03-13-2016, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by locolobo

My bad; I loosened it first. Maybe this made things harder. At least now the DIY is clear as to the sequence.

Yeah there is just enough room to poke an extension and socket in there with everything In place

JOHNNYBRAVO1 · 03-14-2016, 09:36 AM

Thankyou for all your help. Taking off the v band might have been the culprit. I did jack up the motor took off exhaust, but getting the bolt inside the motor mount seemed to be a pain, a breaker bar and impact wrachet helped. Getting off the preasure differential sensor by the rear of the fire wall was tuff. Does that get ready used? Or just junk it. Those 3.5mm vac hoses are really tight from the factory and brittle.

JOHNNYBRAVO1 · 03-14-2016, 09:41 AM

Also has anyone used the header LAVA wrap on the downpipe? Or the turbo blanket. Just to ease up heat around the motor and efficiency. I know it's used a lot in dragging and I see it at Etown aka raceway park.

BB_cuda · 03-14-2016, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOHNNYBRAVO1

Thankyou for all your help. Taking off the v band might have been the culprit. I did jack up the motor took off exhaust, but getting the bolt inside the motor mount seemed to be a pain, a breaker bar and impact wrachet helped. Getting off the preasure differential sensor by the rear of the fire wall was tuff. Does that get ready used? Or just junk it. Those 3.5mm vac hoses are really tight from the factory and brittle.

Maybe I'm in the minority. I only slipped black hoses off of DPF thin tubes. I didn't mess with any other vacuum lines. Also, I unscrewed sensors from DPF instead of unplugging harnesses that are hooked to sensors. The forward oxygen sensor is a pain. I have a homemade 22 mm shorty open end wrench that is perfect for it.

335dsleeper · 03-14-2016, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOHNNYBRAVO1

Also has anyone used the header LAVA wrap on the downpipe? Or the turbo blanket. Just to ease up heat around the motor and efficiency. I know it's used a lot in dragging and I see it at Etown aka raceway park.

I ceramic coated my DPF delete pipe.

9mmkungfu · 03-15-2016, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

I ceramic coated my DPF delete pipe.

I asked about this in the past and the consensus was to not bother.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1095778

What led you to ceramic coat yours and where did you have it done? Just curious.

BB_cuda · 03-15-2016, 11:22 AM

I read that thread you posted, 9mm. I have same opinion as DWR. The coating will hold more heat in the pipe if its going to cool off the engine bay. I vote that EGTs would go up some. I'm probably not in majority but I like the look of the 316L SS pipe (ecotune used this alloy, others used 304L). Not dinging sleeper for doing this. I've done mods where there wasn't appreciable gain but it looks cool too(alum trans pan). Potato or patahto, we all get our thrills in different ways.

335dsleeper · 03-15-2016, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9mmkungfu

I asked about this in the past and the consensus was to not bother.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1095778

What led you to ceramic coat yours and where did you have it done? Just curious.

Because I had some left over.

335dsleeper · 03-15-2016, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I read that thread you posted, 9mm. I have same opinion as DWR. The coating will hold more heat in the pipe if its going to cool off the engine bay. I vote that EGTs would go up some. I'm probably not in majority but I like the look of the 316L SS pipe (ecotune used this alloy, others used 304L). Not dinging sleeper for doing this. I've done mods where there wasn't appreciable gain but it looks cool too(alum trans pan). Potato or patahto, we all get our thrills in different ways.

Only EGT that matters is in the manifold. Keeping the turbo housing and down pipe hotter should increase exhaust velocity. I've always coated my turbo housings and turbo manifolds. Helps to keep the heat in, which keeps the engine compartment cooler and increases velocity by keeping the heat energy in the pipe. Exhaust wrap and heat coating has been proven. It works. I don't see why it wouldn't help of work in our car.

Not sure what's right or wrong but, my set up seems to be working. Now, would I pull a pipe to coat it? No f-Ing way but, it's its off... Why not?!

Owen81 · 04-12-2016, 04:18 AM

So is the consensus still to ream out the waste gate port? I saw mention in another thread that this was not actually required?

02-02-2016, 07:21 PM	#225
Thecastle Major 307 Rep 1,146 Posts Drives: F10 550i Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Houston, TX iTrader: (0) Garage List 2020 BMW M340i [0.00] 2019 RAM 3500 [0.00] 2020 BMW X3 [0.00] 2016 BMW 550i [0.00] 2000 Ford F450 7.3l ... [0.00]	Naw all we need is this mod, to be emissions compliant.
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02-03-2016, 06:52 AM	#226
BEWWWM I like to party 45 Rep 126 Posts Drives: 2011 335d Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Tampa iTrader: (0)	That Volvo is cool, never seen one drive on a beach before.
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03-12-2016, 09:22 PM	#227
JOHNNYBRAVO1 NY BRAVEST 47 Rep 231 Posts Drives: 2010 Monaco blue, 335D Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: NEW YORK, LONG ISLAND iTrader: (0)	How did you get to the 2 upper motor mount bolts under the DPF fiter. It's being such a pain in the butt. I've looked on ISTA-P and D and still killing my brain.. I got the full PROFI SS exhaust and BPC stage 2+ ready to install with meth but getting to those 2 upper bolts off the mount is just getting me mad. Should I also replace all the 1/4 vacu hoses? They look dry and brittle. I was think of clear hose with DEI thermal wrap. This has been an absolute great write up and has helped so much.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-13-2016, 08:27 AM	#228
locolobo Oil Burner 21 Rep 119 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Barbera Red Metallic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, Ohio iTrader: (1) Garage List 2013 Volkswagen Pas ... [0.00] 2004 Honda Pilot [0.00] 2009 335d [0.00]	Johnny, If you first loosen the DPF and raise the engine about 2 cm, you should be able to reach the 4 bolts into the block. I got a couple from above and 1 or 2 from below (can't remember). Yes it is a pain but it can be done. In my case I removed the entire engine mount base, but I'm not sure you have to do that. __________________ 2009 335d Barbera Red Metallic; Mods: BPC tuned, Bohl Diesel Performance, Laser Veil, BelTronics Pro 500
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-13-2016, 09:32 AM	#229
locolobo Oil Burner 21 Rep 119 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Barbera Red Metallic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, Ohio iTrader: (1) Garage List 2013 Volkswagen Pas ... [0.00] 2004 Honda Pilot [0.00] 2009 335d [0.00]	A few takeaways from completing this job almost entirely myself: 1. You can do it yourself on jack stands. Remove everything from above before jacking up, including loosening v-band clamp and unplugging DPF sensors. Pull off (if you can) or cut the pressure differential sensor hoses. 2. Raise car at least 20 inches from floor. 14 inches is not enough for comfort. 3. Remove the entire exhaust. The pipe was already cut and clamped in the back from when BMW replaced the SCR tank under warranty. So for me removing the exhaust was only the 2 clamps, 4 support bolts, and the two bolts that connect to the DPF downpipe. To mod the SCR box, cut 3 of 4 sides of a rectangle, and on the 4th side make a perforated cut. The 4th side holds the flap in the correct position for rewelding. 4. A small bottle jack makes controlling raising the engine a lot easier. If you disconnect the red boost hose you can raise it a bit more 5. If you need to replace the fuel filter, do it while you're doing this job. 6. As others have mentioned, bag the unused connectors and zip tie. 7. When removing the DPF canister, be careful not to abrade the sensor wires. It's easy to get frustrated, but it will come out. __________________ 2009 335d Barbera Red Metallic; Mods: BPC tuned, Bohl Diesel Performance, Laser Veil, BelTronics Pro 500
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-13-2016, 02:19 PM	#230
BB_cuda Brigadier General 765 Rep 3,556 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Msport, 2013 X5D Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Clear Lake, Texas iTrader: (0)	Don't, repeat don't take DPF loose until you get bracket off and out. You will have two things in each other's way. The main reason to jack up engine is to get the right side of bracket up off top of mount. Personally, I left band clamp alone until bracket was out. I did job with rest of exhaust left in place. It does help if you loosen the exhaust bracket at trans location. This gives you wiggle to line up vband clamp and rear 2 bolt flange of downpipe. I used a whole bunch of long extensions hooked together for a couple of the bracket bolts.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-13-2016, 07:50 PM	#231
HeatherM35d Second Lieutenant 99 Rep 250 Posts Drives: X5d and 335d Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: upstate NY iTrader: (0)	Bb cuda is correct..leave v-band for last
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03-13-2016, 07:53 PM	#232
locolobo Oil Burner 21 Rep 119 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Barbera Red Metallic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, Ohio iTrader: (1) Garage List 2013 Volkswagen Pas ... [0.00] 2004 Honda Pilot [0.00] 2009 335d [0.00]	My bad; I loosened it first. Maybe this made things harder. At least now the DIY is clear as to the sequence. __________________ 2009 335d Barbera Red Metallic; Mods: BPC tuned, Bohl Diesel Performance, Laser Veil, BelTronics Pro 500
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-14-2016, 09:36 AM	#234
JOHNNYBRAVO1 NY BRAVEST 47 Rep 231 Posts Drives: 2010 Monaco blue, 335D Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: NEW YORK, LONG ISLAND iTrader: (0)	Thankyou for all your help. Taking off the v band might have been the culprit. I did jack up the motor took off exhaust, but getting the bolt inside the motor mount seemed to be a pain, a breaker bar and impact wrachet helped. Getting off the preasure differential sensor by the rear of the fire wall was tuff. Does that get ready used? Or just junk it. Those 3.5mm vac hoses are really tight from the factory and brittle.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-14-2016, 09:41 AM	#235
JOHNNYBRAVO1 NY BRAVEST 47 Rep 231 Posts Drives: 2010 Monaco blue, 335D Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: NEW YORK, LONG ISLAND iTrader: (0)	Also has anyone used the header LAVA wrap on the downpipe? Or the turbo blanket. Just to ease up heat around the motor and efficiency. I know it's used a lot in dragging and I see it at Etown aka raceway park.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-15-2016, 11:22 AM	#239
BB_cuda Brigadier General 765 Rep 3,556 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Msport, 2013 X5D Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Clear Lake, Texas iTrader: (0)	I read that thread you posted, 9mm. I have same opinion as DWR. The coating will hold more heat in the pipe if its going to cool off the engine bay. I vote that EGTs would go up some. I'm probably not in majority but I like the look of the 316L SS pipe (ecotune used this alloy, others used 304L). Not dinging sleeper for doing this. I've done mods where there wasn't appreciable gain but it looks cool too(alum trans pan). Potato or patahto, we all get our thrills in different ways.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-12-2016, 04:18 AM	#242
Owen81 Lieutenant 83 Rep 432 Posts Drives: 335d, 17/22 TDI Join Date: May 2015 Location: Alberta, Canada iTrader: (0)	So is the consensus still to ream out the waste gate port? I saw mention in another thread that this was not actually required?
	Appreciate 0 Quote