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      07-04-2016, 05:35 AM   #1
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Valve Cover Gasket...

What a goddamned F'ing pain in the ass.

Sorry had to rant...
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 07-04-2016 at 05:43 AM..
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      07-04-2016, 05:39 AM   #2
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What I goddamned F'ing pain in the ass.

Sorry had to rant...
hHAHHAAHAHAHA Classic
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      07-04-2016, 05:42 AM   #3
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hHAHHAAHAHAHA Classic
Where's my E30...
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      07-04-2016, 05:46 AM   #4
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Where's my E30...
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      07-04-2016, 05:49 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
You can remove a M20 valve cover AND adjust the valves in less time it takes to just get the cover off of a N52 sitting in an E90 engine bay. Just sayin'

Hell, maybe even throw in the cam belt too...


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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      07-04-2016, 07:38 PM   #6
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LOL!!! But I guess it would be a bit better if it were on your Z4 with that big engine bay...
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      07-04-2016, 08:34 PM   #7
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LOL!!! But I guess it would be a bit better if it were on your Z4 with that big engine bay...
So the problem you have when you've built a private shop to fix cars is YOU HAVE TO USE IT.

But really, getting the valve cover off an N52 out of the E90 engine bay is a complete PIA. I look forward to the Z4... you just buy a new valve cover and go from there.

The E90 is all wrapped up. I broke the oil breather hose (of course). A little JB Weld and a 1/2 copper pipe butt connector and we'll she how she does tomorrow.

I remember when BMWs were designed to be repaired. Gotta love Bentley... "Remove the oil breather hose from the rear of the valve cover..." No shit Sherlock... but HOW?

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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      07-04-2016, 08:57 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
So the problem you have when you've built a private shop to fix cars is YOU HAVE TO USE IT.

But really, getting the valve cover off an N52 out of the E90 engine bay is a complete PIA. I look forward to the Z4... you just buy a new valve cover and go from there.

The E90 is all wrapped up. I broke the oil breather hose (of course). A little JB Weld and a 1/2 copper pipe butt connector and we'll she how she does tomorrow.

I remember when BMWs were designed to be repaired. Gotta love Bentley... "Remove the oil breather hose from the rear of the valve cover..." No shit Sherlock... but HOW?

I wonder if there is any difference to the ease (or lack there of) when comparing the LHD models to the RHD models. It's that firewall area on the exhaust side of the engine that makes it a PITA! From what I've seen on various threads and vids, there's a chunk of plastic or something that needs to be "reshaped" to allow for the valve cover to actually clear and come out of the engine bay, and I seem to think is has to do with the location of the ECU which differs from LHD to RHD as far as I know, but could be wrong. I was lucky when I did the DISA replacement job some years back, didn't break that rear vent hose, granted, the car was still pretty young with quite low mileage back then. It was a bit of a battle to get it off, but not that bad actually. Maybe as it gets older and more brittle it becomes virtually impossible to not break it.

Well, hope you get it all sorted out!! Good luck!! And keep hydrated!!

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      07-05-2016, 05:56 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I View Post
I wonder if there is any difference to the ease (or lack there of) when comparing the LHD models to the RHD models. It's that firewall area on the exhaust side of the engine that makes it a PITA! From what I've seen on various threads and vids, there's a chunk of plastic or something that needs to be "reshaped" to allow for the valve cover to actually clear and come out of the engine bay, and I seem to think is has to do with the location of the ECU which differs from LHD to RHD as far as I know, but could be wrong. I was lucky when I did the DISA replacement job some years back, didn't break that rear vent hose, granted, the car was still pretty young with quite low mileage back then. It was a bit of a battle to get it off, but not that bad actually. Maybe as it gets older and more brittle it becomes virtually impossible to not break it.

Well, hope you get it all sorted out!! Good luck!! And keep hydrated!!

Just finished up this morning. I had to remove a piece of rubber I jammed in the firewall to hold the oil vapor line in place while the JB Weld set up (love that stuff). I reset the mechanical limits of the Valvetronic and took it for a test drive. All seems good with the field repair of the hose. I'll take her to work today for a 160 mile shakedown test. I don't expect it to hold forever but it beat pulling the intake and waiting to get a new pipe. I really didn't have a VCG leak per se, just some weeping, but two years ago I got a ESS trouble code with a failed start, so I was on borrowed time on the ESS. It did have some oil in the connector. Your thoughts on using dieletric grease for the connector? I didn't use any, but thought about it. I was afraid that any change in the voltages coming from the ESS would throw a code, so I decided to first check the install without any dieletric grease in the connector.

For the LHD versions, there is a bracket bolted to the firewall that keeps the right front brake line and another line tight to the firewall. It's all cramped there with the ECU box and harnesses in that corner.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 07-05-2016 at 06:05 AM..
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      07-05-2016, 09:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Just finished up this morning. I had to remove a piece of rubber I jammed in the firewall to hold the oil vapor line in place while the JB Weld set up (love that stuff). I reset the mechanical limits of the Valvetronic and took it for a test drive. All seems good with the field repair of the hose. I'll take her to work today for a 160 mile shakedown test. I don't expect it to hold forever but it beat pulling the intake and waiting to get a new pipe. I really didn't have a VCG leak per se, just some weeping, but two years ago I got a ESS trouble code with a failed start, so I was on borrowed time on the ESS. It did have some oil in the connector. Your thoughts on using dieletric grease for the connector? I didn't use any, but thought about it. I was afraid that any change in the voltages coming from the ESS would throw a code, so I decided to first check the install without any dieletric grease in the connector.

For the LHD versions, there is a bracket bolted to the firewall that keeps the right front brake line and another line tight to the firewall. It's all cramped there with the ECU box and harnesses in that corner.
Glad you got all sorted out. And hope that the repaired hose lasts. I don't know about using a dielectric grease for the connector, might not be a problem, but I would probably not use it. I pulled the connector off mine not so long ago and of course, dry as a whistle, but decided to give it a spray of some electrical switch cleaner, which I immediately regretted due to the remaining silicone residue. So I carefully sprayed some alcohol based cleaner onto the connector of the sensor and plug, then quickly blasted with some compressed air. So at least it's all clean and free of any dust or any sort of residue. Of course, no difference to performance or anything of the sort.

Reason for asking about the difference between LHD and RHD, just before I bought my car, BMW had apparently replaced the valve cover gasket due to a leak, and there is no signs of "engine bay modifications" to get the valve cover off, so it must be an easy task on the RHD models.
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      07-05-2016, 09:27 PM   #11
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Yeah... in the name of progress and cost savings they continue to heap on us even more cumbersome procedures and process to deal with parts that in the past were easy to access and easy to repair. The plastics on motors these days drive me bat shit crazy some times. Glad to hear the repair is holding.
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      07-06-2016, 05:06 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Hacksaw View Post
Yeah... in the name of progress and cost savings they continue to heap on us even more cumbersome procedures and process to deal with parts that in the past were easy to access and easy to repair. The plastics on motors these days drive me bat shit crazy some times. Glad to hear the repair is holding.
Here's an example. On the E30 you can replace the heater core in about 30 minutes. Drain the coolant, then go into the driver's foot well and remove 4 screws and cover. Disconnect two coolant hoses (which use real metal hose clamps), and slide the heater core out. When you bought a BMW THAT was the engineering you got (along with a great driving car).
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      07-06-2016, 04:26 PM   #13
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I have fond memories of these sort of repairs... One of the reasons I preferred BMW's. Even the E30 M versions wasn't all that bad to work on.

At least it made sense.
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      07-13-2016, 04:56 PM   #14
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What a goddamned F'ing pain in the ass.

Sorry had to rant...
I'm so glad a veteran thinks is a pain as well. So much tedious work in such a small area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
I remember when BMWs were designed to be repaired. Gotta love Bentley... "Remove the oil breather hose from the rear of the valve cover..." No shit Sherlock... but HOW?
Seriously. It's extra infuriating because once you get the hose off it just pops out so simply that it causes you to question what the hell you were doing for the last 20 minutes trying to get it loose.

My wasn't leaking too bad - about a quart a oil change. It'd have to be leaking worse than that for me to attempt again. Although the spark plugs wells were getting oil in them as well...
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      07-13-2016, 09:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
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What a goddamned F'ing pain in the ass.

Sorry had to rant...
Tell me about it... I had to drive to the dealer, wait for them to do the paperwork for the 2016 328 loaner, and go back the next day to get pick up my car.

Free under SULEV warranty.

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      07-14-2016, 04:24 AM   #16
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Tell me about it... I had to drive to the dealer, wait for them to do the paperwork for the 2016 328 loaner, and go back the next day to get pick up my car.

Free under SULEV warranty.

Sorry you had to put up with an F30 loaner. I hope the trauma of driving it subsides soon.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      07-14-2016, 11:09 AM   #17
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Sorry you had to put up with an F30 loaner. I hope the trauma of driving it subsides soon.
Thanks for your concern. After a few miles of therapy in my E90, I feel much better.
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      07-14-2016, 01:23 PM   #18
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Aside from it being a pain in the ass, is it something that someone who knows there way around a toolbox can do on their driveway?
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      07-14-2016, 03:35 PM   #19
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Aside from it being a pain in the ass, is it something that someone who knows there way around a toolbox can do on their driveway?
You need E-Torx sockets. Allen sockets. A 1/4-drive torque wrench. And a BMW scan tool to reset the Valvetronic limits. Read the DIY.
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      07-14-2016, 09:18 PM   #20
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Thanks for your concern. After a few miles of therapy in my E90, I feel much better.
That's how I roll...
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      07-15-2016, 03:18 PM   #21
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Aside from it being a pain in the ass, is it something that someone who knows there way around a toolbox can do on their driveway?
Just did this job the other day, the e-torx set is the most uncommon tool you will need, but they are relatively cheap. Just make sure the set comes with a 1/4" drive 8 mm socket. The one I bought did not (it was 3/8") and it wouldn't fit into the small space around the valvetronic motor bolts.

Being that it was late at night and I couldn't get my hands on the right socket, I elected to use a 1/4" deep socket. It gripped the head fine with no stripping. I would not recommend doing this as I am usually a stickler for using the right tool for the job, but it worked fine for this.

Also, the most helpful DIY I found was this video


The tips he offers were very helpful, including cutting about a quarter inch of plastic off one of the e-box tabs. Although such a small amount this helped a lot in getting the VC off and on.

Take the extra step to ensure the VC gasket is not rolled over inside when you finally finagle it back on (it will go, really helps if you have two people one on the front and one on the back). Mount it on and then lift it up about an inch and feel all the way around so that you are 100% confident the gasket is seated correctly.

It goes without saying but I'll say it anyways. Unless you know your spark plugs are new, replace them while you are in there. Also replace the valvetronic motor gasket (turns out this one was leaking more than the VC gasket on my car) and the eccentric shaft sensor seal. I had a very small amount of oil in the eccentric shaft sensor plug, so I cleaned it out. The recommendation is to replace the eccentric shaft sensor if this is the case, I did not. You may wish to to be preventative.

It took me about 8 hours to do the job, including running around the city looking for an e-torx set and going at a pretty slow pace to make sure everything is done right. This is not an overly difficult job but it requires patience and organization.

One final thing I just thought of, when you remove the injector harness, a lot of DIYs say just yank it straight up. This will sometimes not work and it will feel like you are about to break something. Take 5 minutes to remove the 6 individual little clips on the injector harness and it will pull off easily. Reseat the clips as soon as you pull it off, then when you go to put it back on it will click into place nicely.

I did not have to reset the valvetronic limits, follow the instructions at the end of that video for calibrating the valvetronic and it should be fine. Mine fired up with no bad noises, codes, lights or anything, and after about 1000 km I am confident that the install went perfectly fine.

Good luck!

Last edited by the dope steez; 07-15-2016 at 03:32 PM..
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      11-23-2016, 01:42 PM   #22
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Also, the most helpful DIY I found was this video


Good luck!
Well, certainly not looking forward to this!

My e46M was a cake walk even when considering a valve adjustment.
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