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      09-12-2018, 08:30 PM   #1
Leosj
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Water pump won't run

Hi. I'm having a bit of a problem. Recently my 2006 bmw 330i wouldn't start. I figured it was the starter, so I replaced it,so, while i was in the process... I decided to replace the alternator as well. Well... I tried starting the car, and it wouldn't turn on. Battery was good too. I had to reset the trouble codes in order to start it. It finally turned on, and I thought that was the problem fix, but around 30 minutes after the car was on. It started to overheat. I figured it was the water pump, so... I replaced it with a new one, replaced the thermostat too, like everyone suggested. Tried to get the bleeding process going, but the car wouldn't start the bleeding process. I checked all the fuses, and every single one is good, even the ones under the hood. Can someone help please.
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      09-14-2018, 07:17 AM   #2
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You read the codes? Do that and post here

What procedure did you follow to for the coolant bleed? Post it here.
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      09-14-2018, 09:58 PM   #3
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You need to really understand your procedures of your cars coolant bleeds
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      09-14-2018, 11:22 PM   #4
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Hi thank you for replying. I did the key, start without starting the car, heater high temp, low setting held the gas pedal for 10 second. The pump doesn't run.
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      09-15-2018, 01:30 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leosj View Post
Hi thank you for replying. I did the key, start without starting the car, heater high temp, low setting held the gas pedal for 10 second. The pump doesn't run.
Ok, what do the codes say?
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      09-15-2018, 01:56 AM   #6
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It was a code 2e84, 2f0d, 51ad, p0015. I forgot the others. I had to erase them to see if the car would start.
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      09-15-2018, 02:02 AM   #7
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By the way... the pump started to work all of a sudden. I turned off the car, and turned it back on, and the pump started not working again. I'm curious... would a bad battery cause all this?
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      09-15-2018, 02:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leosj View Post
By the way... the pump started to work all of a sudden. I turned off the car, and turned it back on, and the pump started not working again. I'm curious... would a bad battery cause all this?
Pump is failing
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      09-15-2018, 10:39 AM   #9
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I thought of that. I'll replace the pump on monday. And I'll update after. Thank you guys.
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      09-15-2018, 10:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leosj View Post
I thought of that. I'll replace the pump on monday. And I'll update after. Thank you guys.
Do tstat while ur at it
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      09-15-2018, 12:41 PM   #11
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Yeah, I'll do both. Thanks again.
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      09-20-2018, 09:24 PM   #12
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Hey guys... sorry. I installed a new water pump, and thermostat. All fuses are good. It still won't bleed the system. Anyone have an idea, of what can be the problem?
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      09-21-2018, 12:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leosj View Post
...2006 bmw 330i wouldn't start. I figured it was the starter, so I replaced it,so, while i was in the process... I decided to replace the alternator as well. Well... I tried starting the car, and it wouldn't turn on. Battery was good too. I had to reset the trouble codes in order to start it. It finally turned on, and I thought that was the problem fix, but around 30 minutes after the car was on. It started to overheat. I figured it was the water pump, so... I replaced it with a new one, replaced the thermostat too, like everyone suggested. Tried to get the bleeding process going, but the car wouldn't start the bleeding process. I checked all the fuses, and every single one is good, even the ones under the hood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leosj View Post
It was a code 2e84, 2f0d, 51ad, p0015. I forgot the others. I had to erase them to see if the car would start.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leosj View Post
By the way... the pump started to work all of a sudden. I turned off the car, and turned it back on, and the pump started not working again. I'm curious... would a bad battery cause all this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by unrulyteach View Post
Pump is failing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leosj View Post
Hey guys... sorry. I installed a new water pump, and thermostat. All fuses are good. It still won't bleed the system. Anyone have an idea, of what can be the problem?
It sounds like we need to get on the same page as to what (1) diagnostics, and (2) parts replacements have been done in the last month or two, and when, BEFORE you spend more time & money throwing parts at it.

9/12, Post#1:
1) You stated that the car would NOT start, so you replaced the starter & alternator (no identification of any DTCs, whether the original starter cranked the engine but not fire, alternator voltage output, etc.).
2) You stated that AFTER replacing starter & alternator: "I tried starting the car, and it wouldn't turn on." I assume you meant the starter cranked the engine, but the engine did NOT fire?
3) You stated that: "I had to reset the trouble codes in order to start it. It finally turned on, and I thought that was the problem fix, but around 30 minutes after the car was on. It started to overheat."
QUESTIONS:
a) WHAT were the trouble codes you CLEARED?
Hint: ALWAYS record all DTCs and Freeze Frame Data BEFORE clearing codes.
b) WHAT diagnostics did you do to evaluate the coolant pump and/or thermostat? WHO is "everyone" who suggested coolant pump & thermostat? Did you read codes (what coolant pump code was saved in DME Memory?) or do any Activation of the pump (including pressing the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds)? Do you have a scan tool or BMW-specific software, and if so, what model?

4) You stated: "I figured it was the water pump, so... I replaced it with a new one, replaced the thermostat too, like everyone suggested."
5) Then after replacing the pump & thermostat, the pump would NOT run when you tried to bleed the system by pressing the throttle for 10 seconds with ignition on, engine OFF. You checked fuses -- did you record which ones you checked? Did you refer to the proper circuit diagram for the coolant pump on your model in TIS or Bentley (see below)? Do you have a multimeter and know how to read voltage at the pump connector?

9/20, Post#12:
Do I understand correctly that you replaced the coolant pump and thermostat AGAIN (2nd time in a MONTH), AND the pump will NOT run???

I'm sorry you have NOT received proper diagnostic advice in this thread. You say that one of the codes you deleted "to get the car to run", presumably ON or BEFORE 9/12/18, was 2E84. That is a communication fault between the DME and Coolant Pump. It is NOT a Speed Deviation Fault (2E81) which would indicate a failing pump. It would appear that your currently-installed pump (and probably any other pump(s) you have removed since this whole fiasco began) is OK, and you have a power supply fault, ground fault, or other wiring fault.

Here is the TIS circuit diagram for your 330i cooling system. The coolant pump is component# M6035, on the right side of the schematic:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/i7SHdY5

Note that there are TWO (2) fuses supplying power to the Control and Motor respectively: (1) F02, 30A, located in the E-box, which powers the control circuit, and should produce 12V+ at pin# 2 (Orange wire) of Connector X6035 at the pump when Terminal 87 is active; (2) F09, 30A, also located in the E-box, which provides primary pump power, 12V+ at pin# 1 (Red wire) of Connector X6035. Test for 12V+ at BOTH pins #1 & #2 (Red & Orange wires) with ignition on, being careful NOT to short/ground either pin. There is also a ground at pin# 4 (Brown wire) of Connector X6035 and you should test for continuity to ground at that pin.

Finally, note the DME control of the pump, turning it on, off & regulating speed, including running the pump for bleed procedure, is via the Violet wire, from pin# 26 of Connector X60007 at the DME to pin# 4 of the pump connector. That is also known as the BSD Bus (Bit-serial Data). Test that wire for continuity, with the connector disconnected from both DME & Pump. The BSD Bus also controls alternator output -- you did NOT state in this thread what caused you to replace the alternator. Does your alternator NOW produce voltage in the 13.5V to 14.5V range with motor running (just run for 30 seconds to test voltage at jumpstart terminal)? Do NOT run engine for more than ~ 1 minute from cold with coolant pump NOT functioning.

The TIS circuit diagram is interactive, and you can click on any BLUE component ID# and get more information on that component, such as Installation Location or Connector View. Here is the Connector View for X6035:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTMccBeM

Here is the location for F02:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/Ri8cSt3

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      09-21-2018, 01:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
It sounds like we need to get on the same page as to what (1) diagnostics, and (2) parts replacements have been done in the last month or two, and when, BEFORE you spend more time & money throwing parts at it.

9/12, Post#1:
1) You stated that the car would NOT start, so you replaced the starter & alternator (no identification of any DTCs, whether the original starter cranked the engine but not fire, alternator voltage output, etc.).
2) You stated that AFTER replacing starter & alternator: "I tried starting the car, and it wouldn't turn on." I assume you meant the starter cranked the engine, but the engine did NOT fire?
3) You stated that: "I had to reset the trouble codes in order to start it. It finally turned on, and I thought that was the problem fix, but around 30 minutes after the car was on. It started to overheat."
QUESTIONS:
a) WHAT were the trouble codes you CLEARED?
Hint: ALWAYS record all DTCs and Freeze Frame Data BEFORE clearing codes.
b) WHAT diagnostics did you do to evaluate the coolant pump and/or thermostat? WHO is "everyone" who suggested coolant pump & thermostat? Did you read codes (what coolant pump code was saved in DME Memory?) or do any Activation of the pump (including pressing the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds)? Do you have a scan tool or BMW-specific software, and if so, what model?

4) You stated: "I figured it was the water pump, so... I replaced it with a new one, replaced the thermostat too, like everyone suggested."
5) Then after replacing the pump & thermostat, the pump would NOT run when you tried to bleed the system by pressing the throttle for 10 seconds with ignition on, engine OFF. You checked fuses -- did you record which ones you checked? Did you refer to the proper circuit diagram for the coolant pump on your model in TIS or Bentley (see below)? Do you have a multimeter and know how to read voltage at the pump connector?

9/20, Post#12:
Do I understand correctly that you replaced the coolant pump and thermostat AGAIN (2nd time in a MONTH), AND the pump will NOT run???

I'm sorry you have NOT received proper diagnostic advice in this thread. You say that one of the codes you deleted "to get the car to run", presumably ON or BEFORE 9/12/18, was 2E84. That is a communication fault between the DME and Coolant Pump. It is NOT a Speed Deviation Fault (2E81) which would indicate a failing pump. It would appear that your currently-installed pump (and probably any other pump(s) you have removed since this whole fiasco began) is OK, and you have a power supply fault, ground fault, or other wiring fault.

Here is the TIS circuit diagram for your 330i cooling system. The coolant pump is component# M6035, on the right side of the schematic:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/i7SHdY5

Note that there are TWO (2) fuses supplying power to the Control and Motor respectively: (1) F02, 30A, located in the E-box, which powers the control circuit, and should produce 12V+ at pin# 2 (Orange wire) of Connector X6035 at the pump when Terminal 87 is active; (2) F09, 30A, also located in the E-box, which provides primary pump power, 12V+ at pin# 1 (Red wire) of Connector X6035. Test for 12V+ at BOTH pins #1 & #2 (Red & Orange wires) with ignition on, being careful NOT to short/ground either pin. There is also a ground at pin# 4 (Brown wire) of Connector X6035 and you should test for continuity to ground at that pin.

Finally, note the DME control of the pump, turning it on, off & regulating speed, including running the pump for bleed procedure, is via the Violet wire, from pin# 26 of Connector X60007 at the DME to pin# 4 of the pump connector. That is also known as the BSD Bus (Bit-serial Data). Test that wire for continuity, with the connector disconnected from both DME & Pump. The BSD Bus also controls alternator output -- you did NOT state in this thread what caused you to replace the alternator. Does your alternator NOW produce voltage in the 13.5V to 14.5V range with motor running (just run for 30 seconds to test voltage at jumpstart terminal)? Do NOT run engine for more than ~ 1 minute from cold with coolant pump NOT functioning.

The TIS circuit diagram is interactive, and you can click on any BLUE component ID# and get more information on that component, such as Installation Location or Connector View. Here is the Connector View for X6035:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTMccBeM

Here is the location for F02:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/Ri8cSt3

Please let us know what you find,
George
Thank you very much George I really appreciate the help, and thank you very much for taking the time to write all this down. I will definitely try everything that you posted.
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      09-23-2018, 09:41 AM   #15
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Ok. So this is what happened. For the past year... I'd be having a slow start problem with my car. Sometimes the car would start right up, and sometimes it would start very slow. Like there was no power going into the starter. For a couple of times, it would crank, and not start the first time, but pressed start button again, and would start. Well... I took my mother to the grocery store around three weeks ago, but before heading to the store... I took took my car into the drive through car wash. I turned on the ac on full blast, and right after I got out of the car wash place, I noticed that the air went from full blast, to maybe half blast. Like, a loss of power to the ac air blower. The grocery store is right next to the car wash, so I didn't think much of it, (I just thought it was weired) and parked the car. We were in the store for about 20 minutes, came back out, and no start. I jumped the car for about 45 minutes, and no start. Had to tow the vehicle back home. And... the rest has already been posted.
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      09-23-2018, 09:51 AM   #16
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Fast forward to now... first off. I'm not a mechanic, I work in construction. I could never get the car to bleed. I did all the steps, and would not bleed. Well.. the car started, the water pump was running it wasn't overheating, turned it off a couple of times, turned it back on, started right up. I decided to take it for a spin around the neighbor hood. Drive it for around 30 minutes. Drove back home turned it off, tried to start the car right away, and no start. Tried a few times after the first, and no start. It was 1 in the morning, so I went to sleep. Got up at 5 in the morning to head out to work. I decided to just give it one more try before I drove off to work, and it started right up, tried a couple of times after the first, and started right up.
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      09-23-2018, 10:49 AM   #17
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If pump not good quality i put one in didn't work for even a second returned it switched manufacturers instantly work and still going strong.
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      09-23-2018, 11:01 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AP888 View Post
If pump not good quality i put one in didn't work for even a second returned it switched manufacturers instantly work and still going strong.
Thank you for the reply. The car wouldn't start, when the water pump isn't working?
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      09-23-2018, 08:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leosj View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AP888 View Post
If pump not good quality i put one in didn't work for even a second returned it switched manufacturers instantly work and still going strong.
Thank you for the reply. The car wouldn't start, when the water pump isn't working?
The car should start if your water pump is not working you might have other problems check some fuses possibly...my bad pump kept blowing fuse forget which one..
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      09-23-2018, 08:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AP888 View Post
The car should start if your water pump is not working you might have other problems check some fuses possibly...my bad pump kept blowing fuse forget which one..
Thank you man. I checked all the fuses. They all work.
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      09-24-2018, 03:26 AM   #21
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check the ground strap
Is a long shot but I have heard a electrical gremlin stories that even had the experts stumped. Ended up being a frayed and faulty ground strap
As I said it might be a long shot but doesn't hurt to check it out
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      10-07-2018, 01:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
It sounds like we need to get on the same page as to what (1) diagnostics, and (2) parts replacements have been done in the last month or two, and when, BEFORE you spend more time & money throwing parts at it.

9/12, Post#1:
1) You stated that the car would NOT start, so you replaced the starter & alternator (no identification of any DTCs, whether the original starter cranked the engine but not fire, alternator voltage output, etc.).
2) You stated that AFTER replacing starter & alternator: "I tried starting the car, and it wouldn't turn on." I assume you meant the starter cranked the engine, but the engine did NOT fire?
3) You stated that: "I had to reset the trouble codes in order to start it. It finally turned on, and I thought that was the problem fix, but around 30 minutes after the car was on. It started to overheat."
QUESTIONS:
a) WHAT were the trouble codes you CLEARED?
Hint: ALWAYS record all DTCs and Freeze Frame Data BEFORE clearing codes.
b) WHAT diagnostics did you do to evaluate the coolant pump and/or thermostat? WHO is "everyone" who suggested coolant pump & thermostat? Did you read codes (what coolant pump code was saved in DME Memory?) or do any Activation of the pump (including pressing the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds)? Do you have a scan tool or BMW-specific software, and if so, what model?

4) You stated: "I figured it was the water pump, so... I replaced it with a new one, replaced the thermostat too, like everyone suggested."
5) Then after replacing the pump & thermostat, the pump would NOT run when you tried to bleed the system by pressing the throttle for 10 seconds with ignition on, engine OFF. You checked fuses -- did you record which ones you checked? Did you refer to the proper circuit diagram for the coolant pump on your model in TIS or Bentley (see below)? Do you have a multimeter and know how to read voltage at the pump connector?

9/20, Post#12:
Do I understand correctly that you replaced the coolant pump and thermostat AGAIN (2nd time in a MONTH), AND the pump will NOT run???

I'm sorry you have NOT received proper diagnostic advice in this thread. You say that one of the codes you deleted "to get the car to run", presumably ON or BEFORE 9/12/18, was 2E84. That is a communication fault between the DME and Coolant Pump. It is NOT a Speed Deviation Fault (2E81) which would indicate a failing pump. It would appear that your currently-installed pump (and probably any other pump(s) you have removed since this whole fiasco began) is OK, and you have a power supply fault, ground fault, or other wiring fault.

Here is the TIS circuit diagram for your 330i cooling system. The coolant pump is component# M6035, on the right side of the schematic:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/i7SHdY5

Note that there are TWO (2) fuses supplying power to the Control and Motor respectively: (1) F02, 30A, located in the E-box, which powers the control circuit, and should produce 12V+ at pin# 2 (Orange wire) of Connector X6035 at the pump when Terminal 87 is active; (2) F09, 30A, also located in the E-box, which provides primary pump power, 12V+ at pin# 1 (Red wire) of Connector X6035. Test for 12V+ at BOTH pins #1 & #2 (Red & Orange wires) with ignition on, being careful NOT to short/ground either pin. There is also a ground at pin# 4 (Brown wire) of Connector X6035 and you should test for continuity to ground at that pin.

Finally, note the DME control of the pump, turning it on, off & regulating speed, including running the pump for bleed procedure, is via the Violet wire, from pin# 26 of Connector X60007 at the DME to pin# 4 of the pump connector. That is also known as the BSD Bus (Bit-serial Data). Test that wire for continuity, with the connector disconnected from both DME & Pump. The BSD Bus also controls alternator output -- you did NOT state in this thread what caused you to replace the alternator. Does your alternator NOW produce voltage in the 13.5V to 14.5V range with motor running (just run for 30 seconds to test voltage at jumpstart terminal)? Do NOT run engine for more than ~ 1 minute from cold with coolant pump NOT functioning.

The TIS circuit diagram is interactive, and you can click on any BLUE component ID# and get more information on that component, such as Installation Location or Connector View. Here is the Connector View for X6035:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTMccBeM

Here is the location for F02:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/Ri8cSt3

Please let us know what you find,
George
Hey george. I'm sorry for a very late reply. I got caught up with work, so I wasn't checking my car. I did what you suggested. I finally got under the car, and checked for the voltage on the plug going into the water pump. The red wire, reads 12+, the next one after that, reads 12+, the small one before the ground reads 8+. And checked the ground continuity, and everything is good with the ground. To my conclusion... well, everything points out to the water pump. I hope you can reply man. And thank you very much for your help.
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