[theGiantMidget]

So my airbag light has been on since I bought my car used 6 months ago. I ran the codes the day I got it and all the airbags said they were good. The code pointed to the BST (battery safety terminal)
I would replace it but the car has never been in an accident so it shouldn't need replaced. I did however notice that there was a little yellow and black wire plugged into the BST (you can see it in the picture) I assume it's a control/sensor wire to the computer. It was disconnected and smashed. I did my best to fix it and reconnect it (heat shrink on the frayed wire and glue for the cracked plastic) After reconnecting I cleared the codes aaand... no dice. I'm kinda at a loss, and I'm completely tired of the dash light.

[iqraceworks]

Do you have the INPA software? It sounds be one of your seat belt tensioners....or the connectors/wiring for them.

INPA will let you check all of the devices.....and see what is actually triggering your airbag light. I had the same issue...turned out to be one of the seat belt tensioners.

I think Bimmergeeks app "Pro Tool" will let you turn the airbag light off.....but the app is a little pricey.

[dpaul]

You can’t fix the BST. Cut the wires, solder a 2 ohm resistor across them, clear the error code.

This fix bypasses the BST device. Otherwise, you’ll have to replace battery terminal- about $200

[dpaul]

PS. I don’t think you can code out the airbag light

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by dpaul

PS. I don’t think you can code out the airbag light

Yep...I'm pretty sure you can. Pro Tool app.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by dpaul

You can’t fix the BST. Cut the wires, solder a 2 ohm resistor across them, clear the error code.

This fix bypasses the BST device. Otherwise, you’ll have to replace battery terminal- about $200

This does work if you have a BST fault....but you need INPA to reset the airbag module after you solder in the resistor.

You can also use INPA to see what is actually triggering the airbag light...could be several different things...not just the BST.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

This does work if you have a BST fault....but you need INPA to reset the airbag module after you solder in the resistor.

You can also use INPA to see what is actually triggering the airbag light...could be several different things...not just the BST.

Yes, of course. OP reported one code, relating to BST, not to seat sensors, although he did not report exactly what it was.

Also, I still don't think you can generically disable the airbag light. You can use coding to disable model specific features like seat sensors, side bags and head restraints. For example, to install performance seats etc. But that does not disable the light for a BST fault or the dash airbags. You'll also have to disconnect the wires to the seat sensors etc or the coding disable will not work.

[smass]

The wiring for mine was bad also. I just cut the yellow black wire out of a craigslist parts car.

[dpaul]

Well, I stand corrected at least about the BST - you CAN code out the BST error, rather than soldering on the resistor.

You can do it with NCSExpert or the Bimmergeek ProTool

[theGiantMidget]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

This does work if you have a BST fault....but you need INPA to reset the airbag module after you solder in the resistor.

You can also use INPA to see what is actually triggering the airbag light...could be several different things...not just the BST.

I'm loving the resistor idea. I should be able to clear the code afterwards with my foxwell NT520 scanner correct? I don't think I need INPA for that.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by theGiantMidget

I'm loving the resistor idea. I should be able to clear the code afterwards with my foxwell NT520 scanner correct? I don't think I need INPA for that.

Yes.

However, I would urge you to take a little time to install BMW standard tools (INPA, NCSExpert, WinKFP, Tool32) or ISTA-D (download links available at www.bimmergeeks.net) and learn a little about how to use them. It will save you time and money in the long run.

[Serf27]

You can code out the BST and not have to solder in a thing!
Or find someone to code it out, if that is the issue.

[tsuintx]

Originally Posted by theGiantMidget

It was disconnected and smashed. I did my best to fix it and reconnect it (heat shrink on the frayed wire and glue for the cracked plastic)

Just putting heat shrink over the broken wire is not going to do anything. Why not take the five minutes more to do it properly and solder it? If you don't have soldering iron, you can get kits off Amazon for 15-20 bucks and if you don't know how to solder, YouTube is full of how-to's.

My 06 had airbag and seat belt lights on when I bought it and also got code for BST. After poking around in the back, I realized a couple of strands of the red/blue wire (most likely the same you have, just different colors) were broken from where it was zip-tied to one of the positive cables.

Went to Pick-n-Pull and got about 12 inches of the wire and the connector, soldered it in, cleared the code and lights were gone. The whole effort took maybe 10 minutes from start to finish and I am not very handy with soldering iron at all.

[theGiantMidget]

Originally Posted by tsuintx

Just putting heat shrink over the broken wire is not going to do anything. Why not take the five minutes more to do it properly and solder it? If you don't have soldering iron, you can get kits off Amazon for 15-20 bucks and if you don't know how to solder, YouTube is full of how-to's.

My 06 had airbag and seat belt lights on when I bought it and also got code for BST. After poking around in the back, I realized a couple of strands of the red/blue wire (most likely the same you have, just different colors) were broken from where it was zip-tied to one of the positive cables.

Went to Pick-n-Pull and got about 12 inches of the wire and the connector, soldered it in, cleared the code and lights were gone. The whole effort took maybe 10 minutes from start to finish and I am not very handy with soldering iron at all.

yea that was just lazy writing by me, I did the whole job. Cut at the damage, strip new wire, solder together, insulate with heat shrink, and did my best to fix the plastic connector.
my guess is that the BST is bad or it's just not making good connection with the property connector. I would replace the connector but I'd have to buy a parts car, to buy knowledge you can't find that connector to buy.

[theGiantMidget]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Yes.

However, I would urge you to take a little time to install BMW standard tools (INPA, NCSExpert, WinKFP, Tool32) or ISTA-D (download links available at www.bimmergeeks.net) and learn a little about how to use them. It will save you time and money in the long run.

I'm sure I'll get around to it eventually. I originally bought the scanner so I could run the codes at the dealer before I bought the car on the chance I would be able to find anything. It does have the bmw/mini specific software if that helps.
I just don't have a laptop or tablet to use right now.

[smass]

Originally Posted by theGiantMidget

yea that was just lazy writing by me, I did the whole job. Cut at the damage, strip new wire, solder together, insulate with heat shrink, and did my best to fix the plastic connector.
my guess is that the BST is bad or it's just not making good connection with the property connector. I would replace the connector but I'd have to buy a parts car, to buy knowledge you can't find that connector to buy.

Not cheap but here is the new connector you would need.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/61129130178/

[iqraceworks]

Solder in a 2ohm resistor....reset the fault (with INPA is how I did it)....and you should be good to go.

[tsuintx]

Originally Posted by theGiantMidget

yea that was just lazy writing by me, I did the whole job. Cut at the damage, strip new wire, solder together, insulate with heat shrink, and did my best to fix the plastic connector.
my guess is that the BST is bad or it's just not making good connection with the property connector. I would replace the connector but I'd have to buy a parts car, to buy knowledge you can't find that connector to buy.

If you want to try to see if it’s the connectors, just go to salvage yard. Even though I really wouldn’t have needed them, I got both connectors (the one that goes to the BST and the one that is on top of the battery) from an X3 at Pick-n-Pull.