[xq_zhu]

I opened the rain sensor covering cap and exposed this connector/socket going into the LCD. Since I don't have homelink life's simple: only three wires in and two wires out. The pink /w blue strip wire connects to a red wire and the white /w black wire connects to a green wire. The brown /w black wire interestingly connects to nothing (as you can notice only two pins).

Now, all I have from my contraption is 22-gauge hookup wire. How to connect them to the LCD wires/pins is my last obstacle. The best idea is to get another of this plug and run my own wires to it, this way, no tapping is required.

Can someone suggest how can I look up this part?

[xq_zhu]

By the way, I was in a RadioShack store today and I see a lot of red LEDs littered around. I wonder if these all come from E90ers?

[msinfo_us]

Originally Posted by xq_zhu

Now, all I have from my contraption is 22-gauge hookup wire. How to connect them to the LCD wires/pins is my last obstacle. The best idea is to get another of this plug and run my own wires to it, this way, no tapping is required.

Can someone suggest how can I look up this part?

The LED current and Voltage requirements are very low, so what I did I used a single pair from CAT6 network cable (regular phone cable will work as well, there is no high frequency interfence relevant to this projet) and soldered wires directly to the plug. Cetainly not the most graceful solution but one that works and simple. Than I ran wires thru existing hose to the roof/lamp area -- it has plenty of available space.

[xq_zhu]

Finally done the mod this weekend! I had to open the mirror case 3 times and the overhead panel at least 5 times to try different things, not to mention that I fried the IC chip once!

Here are some tips and lessons learned:

1 - definitely test the circuit before even thinking of opening the car. I used a jumpstart system that comes with 12V output.

2 - Do not tap into the existing plug that goes into the mirror. One of the wires has constant 12V when I connect that into the circuit, it fried my timer chip!

In my case, I did what msinfo_us did which was running two wires directly to the back of the LED socket casing. I found it easier taking off the mirror and connect these two wires first, then run them back to the circuit board and butt connect (22~26 gauge telephone wire butt connector) them to the output wires from leg 3 and 4. I also disconnected the original LED plug just to be safe.

3 - Although I did not compare with another bmw side-by-side but the output seems dim to me. You may want to try the alternate circuit to start with.

Good luck and thanks for the great DIY.

NOTE:

I do not have compass or homelink so your connection may be different.

[neuronpetkowski]

Damn, I really wish this DIY was for Dummies like me (meaning, easier...) cause I could use faking out the boneheads that keep egging, vandalizing my car. It won't deter the egging, but maybe, JUST MAYBE, they'll think twice before throwing or f-ing with my car...

[msinfo_us]

Originally Posted by xq_zhu

Finally done the mod this weekend! I had to open the mirror case 3 times and the overhead panel at least 5 times to try different things, not to mention that I fried the IC chip once!

Here are some tips and lessons learned:

1 - definitely test the circuit before even thinking of opening the car. I used a jumpstart system that comes with 12V output.

2 - Do not tap into the existing plug that goes into the mirror. One of the wires has constant 12V when I connect that into the circuit, it fried my timer chip!

In my case, I did what msinfo_us did which was running two wires directly to the back of the LED socket casing. I found it easier taking off the mirror and connect these two wires first, then run them back to the circuit board and butt connect (22~26 gauge telephone wire butt connector) them to the output wires from leg 3 and 4. I also disconnected the original LED plug just to be safe.

3 - Although I did not compare with another bmw side-by-side but the output seems dim to me. You may want to try the alternate circuit to start with.

Good luck and thanks for the great DIY.

NOTE:

I do not have compass or homelink so your connection may be different.

First of all -- CONGRATULATION! Brightness: I configured timing for my circuit on a nearly pitch black parking lot next to another BMW with factory alarm. It looked absolutely identical to me. Nevertheless I do believe brighter output can be obtained if desired. Warning: The alternative method mentioned in the beginning of this DIY is somewhat theoretical at this point. I had it when I was "playing" with the timer before I finalized the design. It should work but I did not test it in a car only with 9V battery and it produced brighter output. Now looking at diagram and timer specs I believe there is a better way to get any brightness level desired. I think if we put a regulated/variable V to pin 4 (reset) (can be accomplished with just one POT resistor we can control a threshold when the timer is On and Off that will give us a full range to control brightness by changing V to the timer. Anyway, if I have time this weekend I'll test it out and let you know. Once again - Congratulations!

[ZuerstBMW]

Will these be available for purchase soon?

[msinfo_us]

Everything you need you can get at radioshack anytime...

[ZuerstBMW]

I know, but that not my problem, its the putting it together part.

[txusa03]

Originally Posted by ZuerstBMW

Will these be available for purchase soon?

good question, I was wondering about it as well. I am dummy when it comes to electrical circuits.

Hey, msinfo_us thanks for the detail info on the board. I have yet to look at your video. But I think your recent update should help a few more folks to do the mod. At first, I thought the board have all those thingy (chips, led) on it. Now you see what I mean when I say I am clueless. So you buy each component seperately and take it home and built it onto the board. That is just too much for me but it is a great DIY.

Are you selling that board that you just made?

[msinfo_us]

I've made one extra board so I could take pictures and in hope that by describing/showing the process I would make it easer for somebody who does not have a lot of experience in electronics to build it. Obviously I did not need it and put it together only to help you. That board went to the first person who wanted it. When I mentioned early that I'll try to modify it so LED brightness could be adjusted. I was going to take the board currently installed in my car, do the mod, make sure it works, put it back and report back to you guys with the result and details on "how to" so you have a choice to follow my original instructions or go for a little bit more advanced but more flexible solution. It is not really a big deal for me to build another board to experiment with than send it to you assuming radioshack got the parts in stock (last time they had only two chips so ...). The bigger issue really is that IF let's say I build one more board it is gonna make one of you happy -- what about the rest? You see nothing gets resolved. I don't want to start mass productions of these boards. They cost pennies but they take time to build. On one hand I don't want to ask too much $$ for it because that would defeat the purpose of DIY all together on another hand I can't spend my time doing it for nothing. Actually I don't even have much time to begin with ... I do believe that anyone regardless of how much experience you have can build one by yourself. What do you have to lose? - $10 or so? All you need is few parts and 9V battery than solder it together – even if you fry the chip somehow (BTW I put the D1 there so it is not that easy to do ) the chip is like $1.50 by two just in case -- is this eally a big deal for any of you? I am sure you’ll get it to work – it is really VERY simple. And if you've got questions I am monitoring this thread from time to time and will try to answer them best I can. GL

[poldim]

I knew you were going to be bombarted with questions when I first saw this....

[msinfo_us]

Originally Posted by poldim

I knew you were going to be bombarted with questions when I first saw this....

I don't mind the questions. I kind of expected it too to some degree at least. But this is REALLY A GREAT COMMUNITY and I've learned here a LOT/got help as well and I am having fun reading which I greatly appreciate. I feel like if I have something to share/offer this is one of few places where I do it gladly (and take my word for it there aren't that many places that I feel the same way as about ppl on this forum).

[txusa03]

Originally Posted by msinfo_us

I've made one extra board so I could take pictures and in hope that by describing/showing the process I would make it easer for somebody who does not have a lot of experience in electronics to build it. Obviously I did not need it and put it together only to help you. That board went to the first person who wanted it. When I mentioned early that I'll try to modify it so LED brightness could be adjusted. I was going to take the board currently installed in my car, do the mod, make sure it works, put it back and report back to you guys with the result and details on "how to" so you have a choice to follow my original instructions or go for a little bit more advanced but more flexible solution. It is not really a big deal for me to build another board to experiment with than send it to you assuming radioshack got the parts in stock (last time they had only two chips so ...). The bigger issue really is that IF let's say I build one more board it is gonna make one of you happy -- what about the rest? You see nothing gets resolved. I don't want to start mass productions of these boards. They cost pennies but they take time to build. On one hand I don't want to ask too much $$ for it because that would defeat the purpose of DIY all together on another hand I can't spend my time doing it for nothing. Actually I don't even have much time to begin with ... I do believe that anyone regardless of how much experience you have can build one by yourself. What do you have to lose? - $10 or so? All you need is few parts and 9V battery than solder it together – even if you fry the chip somehow (BTW I put the D1 there so it is not that easy to do ) the chip is like $1.50 by two just in case -- is this eally a big deal for any of you? I am sure you’ll get it to work – it is really VERY simple. And if you've got questions I am monitoring this thread from time to time and will try to answer them best I can. GL

Excellent point...as i said earlier, I totally agreed with you and it seems to me you have bent over backward to help many folks with this. You even built another board just to provide more detail document and you have answered everyone questions. I was just being lazy so forgive me...

Originally Posted by txusa03

Hey, msinfo_us thanks for the detail info on the board. I have yet to look at your video. But I think your recent update should help a few more folks to do the mod.

[msinfo_us]

NP

[msinfo_us]

All right. Here is slightly modified version that allows you to adjust brightness to any desired state. Few things of notice: the LED changed (reversed) its position from normally “On” to normally “Off”. In order to achieve very sharp blink I had to change the capacitor to 0.15mF. Ratio between R1 and R2 had to be increased as well (it is much easer to achieve sharp discharge than quick charge). I used 3M (3000K) regular resistor for R2 and 100 (0.1K) POT for R1.
Adjust the board by pretty much the same logic as before – use R4 to setup a threshold were timer is “Off” when car is running (4.6V) and “On” when car is in parking and locked (12V). Adjust R3 to any desired brightness. Adjust R1 to match original BMW alarm cycle.

PS I just realized that I keep mistyping uF and mF again even in my second diagram. C1 supposed to be 0.1 - 0.5uF

[hihidamon]

Thanks for the great DIY.

Just 1 quick question, what sort of LED should i get for this, so that I can test the circuit away from the car initially (just typical normal <33mcd LED will do? or I need 12V high brightness ones?) Then how do I find out what type of LED is it inside the clown nose?

Thanks again.

[msinfo_us]

I used some LED's that I salvages from old tape deck ... but seriosly you can use almost anything you want for a test -- if you've got 12V LED it is a straight swap and if you've got 5V LED just make sure you put 400-600 resistor next/serial connection to LED so you don't burn it. Once you done with testing remove the resisitor and the LED and replace them with the connection to the clown nouse LED (12V).

[rrandyy]

Originally Posted by txusa03

Hey, msinfo_us thanks for the detail info on the board. I have yet to look at your video. But I think your recent update should help a few more folks to do the mod.

I didnt see any video posted anywhere--can you provide a link?

[msinfo_us]

Originally Posted by rrandyy

I didnt see any video posted anywhere--can you provide a link?

Check toward the end of previos page ...

[hihidamon]

Hi, I built the circuit based on the latest version, but the led is not flashing no matter how I adjust R1. Everything else seems to work can adjust brightness by turning R3, R4 seems to be OK too.

I used the following items:

R1 - 100ohm trimpot
R2 - CF 0.25W 3M3 Orange-Orange-Green-Gold
R3 - 20K trimpot
R4 - 100k trimpot
C1 - 220uF 25v
D1 - 1N4004 400V 1A Rectifier
Standard 3mm red LED with 1K resistor in series

So to confirm, pin 4 and 5 of TLC555 timer aren't connected to anything?
What can it be? what can I do to make it work from here?

I checked the circuit and it seems right to me... will double check again...
Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!

[voerman]

Originally Posted by hihidamon

Hi, I built the circuit based on the latest version, but the led is not flashing no matter how I adjust R1. Everything else seems to work can adjust brightness by turning R3, R4 seems to be OK too.

I used the following items:

R1 - 100ohm trimpot
R2 - CF 0.25W 3M3 Orange-Orange-Green-Gold
R3 - 20K trimpot
R4 - 100k trimpot
C1 - 220uF 25v
D1 - 1N4004 400V 1A Rectifier
Standard 3mm red LED with 1K resistor in series

So to confirm, pin 4 and 5 of TLC555 timer aren't connected to anything?
What can it be? what can I do to make it work from here?

I checked the circuit and it seems right to me... will double check again...
Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!

Hi,

I'll take a stab at this:

Looking at his circuit diagram, I think pin 4 of the 555 timer should be connected to the wiper (center pin) of the R4 trimpot. Which makes sense because pin 4 is the reset line and R4 is used to set the threshold.

Lou