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No Oil Cooler but want to tune
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06-27-2012, 07:01 AM | #1 |
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No Oil Cooler but want to tune
Hello all. I have a 08 335 coupe. Bone stock. Unfortunately it does not have the upgraded oil cooler from factory.
I'm considering a tune but i am hesitant because I don't have this added protection. Anyone running a tune in the same situation as me? I was looking at Dinan stage 2 but it requires an oil cooler. This is not in my budget right now. The other option is Cobb. Non of the stage 1 maps require a oil cooler ( if I'm not mistaken) but I am hesitant as it seems you have to do a bit of troubleshooting after the Cobb install (misfires,codes etc). I want to install and be done with it. Thanks. |
06-27-2012, 07:21 AM | #2 |
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you do not need oil cooler.....but if you do lapping, you will need one
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06-27-2012, 08:18 AM | #3 |
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Im almost full bolt on minus a intercooler (waiting for VRSF) with a JB4 and I have no oil cooler. Even in 90+ degree weather and generally beating up on the car I never see oil temps over 250.
Like the above poster stated. If you track your car its a different story. |
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06-27-2012, 09:28 AM | #4 |
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Keep an eye on oil temps though especially if you are driving hard, if they get to 260 or so, back off of it and let it cool down.
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06-27-2012, 09:30 AM | #5 |
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Drives: '08 E90 335i
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Feel like this is the "period" thread ---- Shows up once every month & it's the same dilemma, but here we go....
If you like to drive in a "spirited" manner and plan on going FBO, you should find an oil cooler 1st. If you're not going to track the car, retrofitting an OEM system is fine (and shouldn't be too expensive). I'm not sure how hot it gets in Toronto, but it's been 93+ here in NJ the past couple days + my oil has been 250 consistently. This is the normal operating temp, but you have to remember that I also have an oil cooler on my car (which starts the cooling process at 230 F). Running the car on a tune obviously increases the performance demand on the car, which will raise your oil/coolant temps faster then if the car was left on the stock performance settings. Limp mode gets triggered at 270 F, and after Road & Track got an '07 coupe to go into Limp Mode after just 3 laps on a small track, I'd say get the oil cooler. A long highway drive or some aggressive backroad driving will get the oil temps up quickly, so if you'd like to avoid pulling over ever 1/2 hr to fan the engine, I'd say start looking into an cooler. IF I was you, I'd look into the AR Design Oil Cooler. Its a bit pricey, but it's the easiest oil cooler to install, it can be retrofitted + comes with the Setrab core (best core option available). The core installs in front of the radiator & gets passive airflow through the kidneys, hoses run right into the oil filter. With the kit, you'll get the upgraded oil lines, Setrab core, mounting bolts/washers & the OEM pieces you need (the thermostate being the most important). |
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06-27-2012, 09:36 AM | #6 |
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06-27-2012, 10:00 AM | #7 |
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Sorry guys. Living off my iPhone hard to search. I was quoted $5000 + tax to install an oil cooler ( dinan) a a local dealer. I couldn't believe the number. I will continue to do my homework.
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06-27-2012, 10:33 AM | #8 |
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Now that is an outrageous number. I don't know how companies stay in business charging such high prices. I guess there are people that pay them. Anyways, I am sure you can take it to any reputable bmw repair shop or tuner shop to get it installed and way cheaper as well. Haha, for that price might as well go all out and get the ER competition oil cooler kit and it would still be significantly cheaper. Good luck. Laters
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06-27-2012, 10:40 AM | #9 | |
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It comes with all the hardware needed to get your car setup up even if you dont have an oil cooler from the factory. I always recommend an oil cooler upgrade even to people who dont have tunes. This car runs hot, and IMO too hot from the factory. People will say you dont need it, but if you are exceeding 250F oil temps I would definitely look into one without question. |
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06-27-2012, 11:44 AM | #13 |
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$5k+ for Dinan, I'll pretend I'm surprised. Like I said earlier, if you're looking for the most affordable oil cooler (cost of the kit + install) & don't plan on tracking the car, the AR design is where it's at. IF you are going to put the car on the track, look at the Evolution Racewerks kit. It installs where the OEM oil cooler would go (passenger wheel well), but basically upgrades everything (still uses OEM thermostat so cooling starts at 230 F).
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06-27-2012, 12:29 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Cheers, Rob |
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06-27-2012, 02:56 PM | #16 |
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Dinan overcharges for everything. For example, a Dinan CAI (which reuses the stock airbox) costs $1,300. The STETT CAI cost $400. I understand there's a lot more to the Dinan CAI, but the stock airbox is inherently inefficient due to the restrictive nature of the airflow.
If you're like me & want to make sure that you're modding doesn't kill your car, go find an AR oil cooler. Last edited by benzy89; 06-27-2012 at 09:41 PM.. |
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06-27-2012, 04:53 PM | #17 |
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With out my Strett stage 2 oil cooler ( also has the best core) I was running 249-260 under almost normal driving in traffic....with it on I am at 200-210.... Only saw 220 once after 5 runs to 120-130 racing a GTO.
I am sure the AR is good (love there Dps)....I just don't like the cooler over the radiator...prefer it in the fender. I had to get the housing also....VERY high quality! The kit was around $1,500 but that was with the stage 2 core, housing, custom cut lines, 180 degree thermostat ect. Took 6 hours to install only because I fixed other stuff to. I could put this on now in 3-4 hours tops.
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06-27-2012, 07:57 PM | #18 |
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I see that the AR design oil cooler costs an extra 500 bones for retrofitting (my '07 does not have oil cooler period). Is there an alternative to buying this retrofit?
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06-27-2012, 08:28 PM | #19 |
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06-27-2012, 08:32 PM | #20 |
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You will need the housing wich s 280.00 for the oil lines to be connected to. The 280.00 was the extra I need for my Stett kit.
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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06-27-2012, 09:51 PM | #21 | ||
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Drives: '08 E90 335i
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I looked into the STETT Stage II kit that rob's talking about with the optional 180 F thermostat and decided it'd be a waste & discovered it could unintentionally damage to the car. The 180 F thermostat should only be used on a dedicated track car (which my car isn't) - Why?? If this kit was applied to a regular, road driven car the oil temps wouldn't exceed 200 F. Want to take a guess at what temp does water get boiled out of the BMW OEM Castrol 5W-30?? 215 F -- Which basically means if you're not driving the car hard enough where oil temps don't exceed 215, water will remain in your oil and can cause serious damage (won't go in-depth on this, but I think we can all agree that water in oil is no good). |
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06-27-2012, 10:41 PM | #22 |
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Well I spoke to a local Indy shop that does work on BMWs only and they suggested the AR cooler. They said that they would modify it and put it
In a diff location as the original spec may damage the rad (as above). Probably will go with this but because I have no cooler I will have to eat the extra cost for the retrofit kit. |
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