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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: changing out the rear struts



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      10-30-2013, 07:11 PM   #23
xroads
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Thanks deadmn1337, I ended up replacing the LCA rubber mount on both sides.
I also replaced items 1 to 7 in diagram on both sides.
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      11-08-2013, 06:14 PM   #24
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If you are replacing the lower shock mount, the one in the aluminum control arm,the 2 torx bolts are size e-12 external torx.
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      07-06-2014, 04:37 PM   #25
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I just replaced the struts on my e90. I don't remember the sizes of the sockets I used, but most of the sized described in this DIY and the front strut DIY are wrong. OEM struts from a 2007, the struts dated 3/1/2007 if I remember correctly. Sorry I didn't write down the sizes but I was powering through the install, it was hot in the garage.

To the guy that suggested the pass-thru socket set, THANK YOU. Such a time saver.
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      10-02-2014, 09:50 AM   #26
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I just did this job on my 2006 325i sport package last weekend. This job is very easy, particularly compared to the water pump and thermostat I did last month! Anyway, I used Bilstein B4 p/n 19-135052. These are a perfect fit and a nice stock replacement. The hardest part of the job is actually removing and installing the interior trunk carpet panels. Buy an $8 trim panel fastener removal tool from Amazon! It is not difficult to compress the shocks by hand. For reference, I'm 5'7" 160 and sit in front of a computer all day. I replaced the upper and lower mounts, but this probably was not necessary if you are on a budget. The upper mounts especially looked and felt like new. BMW parts are really well made. All my suspension components are solid and like new after 9 years and 92k and 7 Boston winters. Except the shocks.
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      01-22-2015, 04:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbiec View Post
I just did this job on my 2006 325i sport package last weekend. This job is very easy, particularly compared to the water pump and thermostat I did last month! Anyway, I used Bilstein B4 p/n 19-135052. These are a perfect fit and a nice stock replacement. The hardest part of the job is actually removing and installing the interior trunk carpet panels. Buy an $8 trim panel fastener removal tool from Amazon! It is not difficult to compress the shocks by hand. For reference, I'm 5'7" 160 and sit in front of a computer all day. I replaced the upper and lower mounts, but this probably was not necessary if you are on a budget. The upper mounts especially looked and felt like new. BMW parts are really well made. All my suspension components are solid and like new after 9 years and 92k and 7 Boston winters. Except the shocks.
Thanks for the heads up.. I'm planning on doing mine tonight with the same shocks.. Looking forward to a better ride!!
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      03-25-2015, 01:00 PM   #28
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2006 BMW 330i  [4.50]
Thanks for this DIY. I did this last weekend, with a bad back as well. Took me 2 hrs as I had to watch how much I was bending over.

The process is relatively straight forward. I think I had more of a hard time with the stupid lining in the trunk than the shocks themselves. LOL. I replaced with B4's. Not having a 16mm open end wrench I used a 5/8 which instead which worked fine.

The new B4's had a 15mm nut on the bottom end as opposed to 17mm, weird but it worked out fine.

Thanks to the OP for posting the DIY as it was invaluable. Next up, is the front struts!
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      07-02-2016, 02:37 PM   #29
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Top nut

Am I missing something about tightening up the upper nut ?

My new Bilstein B4 OE shocks have the same 6mm top that that my OEM shocks have. I am assuming that if I hold this 6mm top with a wrench, I can use an open end wrench to tighten the 16mm nut.

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      07-22-2016, 01:34 PM   #30
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Update to the DIY Rear Shock Installation

I recently replaced my two rear shocks on my 2006 325xi and answered my previous post. I just held the 6mm shock top and tighten the nut tight. I did not worry about the 27 ft lbs torque spec.

One thing is that I used a 6 inch pry bar (see photo) that I purchase at Home Depot to remove the seven (7) expanding black plastic expanding rivets. Take your time so as not to break the plastic expanding rivet. I used a screw driver along with the pry bar on a couple of the rivets. I believe the part number for the black plastic rivet is 07-14-6-971-349.

I was not able to remove the left and right side covers as described in the DIY as the rear luggage compartment trim piece also needs to be removed first. See photos.

To removed this trim piece there are four (4) gray expanding rivets (51-47-8-184-135) and two sheet metal screws under cover caps. See photos. The rivets were difficult to remove as the plastic rivets were brittle. I suggest taking small bites. On some to the rivets I had to use long nose pliers once I got it out a little distance.

Then, remove the floor panel, the battery cover panel and lift the left and right panels out.

I had help compressing the original shocks to remove them as well as installing the new shocks. Made the process much easier.

I replaced both shocks with Bilstein B4 OE 19-135021 shocks using new Rein AVZ0293P bump stops . The original left shock was leaking after 10 1/2 years so I replaced the lower shock mount with a Lemfoerder 35398 01 mount.

Hope this helps.

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      08-12-2016, 08:09 AM   #31
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to everyone who contributed to this thread.... THANK YOU!!!!
i already had trim tools from replacing my speakers, but i did not have a through socket set and an e-torq set. went to harbor freight and grabbed both.

took me a bit over an hour per side (including a good 30 minutes getting the stupid trim in the trunk again.
thank you everyone!!!
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      07-09-2017, 02:21 PM   #32
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hey guys, so i've tried to tighten up the top nut (from the pic at point 4 but on the right side) and i've dropped a small wrench that i've used to hold the strut and it went down in the wheel cavity ... does anyone know if i can retrieve it by removing the bumper fender liner?
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      07-12-2017, 06:51 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCM View Post
hey guys, so i've tried to tighten up the top nut (from the pic at point 4 but on the right side) and i've dropped a small wrench that i've used to hold the strut and it went down in the wheel cavity ... does anyone know if i can retrieve it by removing the bumper fender liner?
No you can't. The bodywork is fully sealed under the fender liner.
Have you tried using a magnetic flexible pick up tool?
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      07-12-2017, 07:05 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135 View Post
No you can't. The bodywork is fully sealed under the fender liner.
Have you tried using a magnetic flexible pick up tool?
Thx for the reply, i'll try to find an appropriate tool ... chances are that the wrench won't be recovered ... not a big deal, it doesn't produce any noise, it's just that i know that it's stuck there
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      07-18-2018, 05:18 AM   #35
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Reviving an old DIY.

BMW dealer wanted $1,065 CDN including tax to replace rear struts so I DIY tonight on my 06 330i sport suspension. After 12 years of use the shocks were so bad I could barely compress one of them and both did not rebound at all. I probably should have replaced them twice by now. I will do the front suspension next after seeing how bad the rears were.

Actual DIY Cost $340 CDN including tax&duty for parts only, I had to buy a $25 torx set but will use that in future DIY projects.

Excellent Video on replacement:


They quote a 16mm open wrench to hold lower shocks while turning the 17mm nut, these shocks actually required a 15mm open ended wrench.

One 17mm deep socket like this one is needed for lower shock nut as a standard depth socket would not have the reach to tighten the nut all the way: http://a.co/fjJ8Xxk

Or a 17mm Drop End box wrench like this: http://a.co/dUzwVRm

Torx T-40 to remove tie-down trim pieces in trunk. Like in the video just remove the first two closest push pins and then push away the liner to reach the rubber shock covers.

E-12 torx to replace lower bushings. The Bushings only go in one way, look at the bushings from underneath as you remove them as one end is wider than the other. After 12 years they were showing some wear but I bet you anything the dealer would not have replaced them.

The shock mount sealing grommet listed as part 5 in xroads post above was mounted with the cup side facing up from the factory so that is how I replaced it in the new kit.

The shock mount listed as part 7 in xroads post above were still in great shape after 12 years but I replaced them anyways.

Parts from FCP Euro in USD:

Item
BMW Shock Absorber - Sachs 311-410 Qty. 2 Total $121.02
BMW Shock Mounting Kit - E9XRSMKIT1 Qty. 1 Total $76.99



Original post in this thread showed what not to do. Do not jack the car up and then work on the car without jack stands and then put your head or arms under the disc brake to loosen the 17mm nut.


Please do:

Make two of your own Jack Pads like Pittsburger's post halfway down this thread for $1 each: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=616494

Back on to low profile ramps or 2x6's. Place wheel chocks on the front and back of the front wheels. Jack up from middle of car using a hockey puck on the jack's pad on the middle of the diff. Use Pittsburger's cut hockey puck jack pads to fit into the lift points on the rear jacking locations and place jack stands under the lift points. Slowly lower the car on to the hockey puck jack stands. Keep the jack in place on the diff and remove the extruding handle so you don't kick it or trip over it. Begin.
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