[Desi]

Like someone said above, this thread is going to be epic. I will dive in and offer whatever help I can after my finals are done. I wrote the how-to's on several retrofits on some GM Forums a few years back. I don't have the balls to do this while my car is under warranty (xenons were PUSHING it hard), but in 3 years time... hello iDrive

You are the man for having the guts to start this...

[Booster4075]

Something else (minor) that is bugging me:

The display module (CID) I have in my possession from an e90 has the LVDS connector as well as a 12-pin connector on the back (supposedly x13822) - however, all of the diagrams I have seen have a 6-pin connector. Regardless, only four of these pins are used.

I referenced the diagram for an e60 CID - it DOES have the 12-pin connector just like my CID (also labeled on that car as x13822.) Luckily, the pin-out matches pin-for-pin of the four terminals utilized to hook it up. Weird, but just another hurdle.

Anyone know how a "normal" i-drive e90 is hooked up? 6-pin connector or 12?

[Desi]

Well I know that the Euro models can play DVDs on their iDrive without any modification. Perhaps the Euro model uses the additional pins in the 12-pin connector to pipe in the video signals from the DVD player directly?

On that note, you may want to look at the TV2Go (or something to that effect) installs. IIRC, they involve hacking up a bit of the iDrive harnesses and thus the pictures in the DIY could potentially reveal something of interest to you. Just a thought.

[Booster4075]

Yeah - I thought about that. But again, the pin-out (even ECE cars) only uses 4 (of the 6) pins. I think the rest of that video stuff for DVD goes through the CCC and is in turn output to the CID via the LVDS cable. The retrofit kits I've seen tap into the LVDS (and sometimes I-drive controller) and don't concern themselves with the x13822 connector.

I guess its not such a concern, its just that my CID part doesn't coincide with all of the e90 diagrams. Luckily, the pin-out breakdown is exactly the same. Weird tho.

[steaman]

Booster4075: Why not check the BMW product # on the CID against the ETK to determine its origin?

Disconnecting the airbags is straight on, but always disconnect the battery before you start. REMEMBER THAT YOU MUST KEEP THE BATTERY DISCONNECTED UNTIL YOU HAVE RECONNECTED ALL AIRBAGS. If not, you will set an alarm that must be reset by BMW or by yourself if you have Carsoft SW and interface cable.

This week my Wife is on a business trip to India so I am focusing on the kids!

[Booster4075]

Hmm.. the online ETK doesn't have any listings for e90 (that I can see) whether I search by part number or by VIN. Its not very user friendly, but it seems like only historical vehicles are on there.. I have the DVD-ROM with 2/08 ETK, but have had difficultly installing it with Windows Vista.

Anybody have a fresh version of ETK installed on their computer that can check the OEM applications for the two following part numbers?:

6583 9138448 - CCC
6582 9114362 - CID (from what I can tell, this supercedes to p/n: 3582 9151979)

Thanks!

[gIzzE]

Interesting thread, I started to do this with my 1 series, same system but different screen obviously.
I have got a nav computer, although the business unit, i-drive controller and the 1 series screen.

I have been considering retrofitting the double dash and putting the system in, but not sure it is worth the hassle.

What parts have you got and are you certain about the wiring from the controller??

I will go and get the parts out now and have a look.

[gIzzE]

Have you considered fitting the 1 series screen, it is just a flip up monitor?
You would have to cut a section out of the dash, but it would be easier than swapping the whole dash.
Only problem is, I am not sure if the 1 series gives you a setting in the menu to tell the screen to open on igniton, or when the controller is pressed, I am sure there is, and this may not be able to be programmed if fitted in an E90.


Has anyone got the pin connections for the e87 monitor??
Just want to know what wiring is for it, it will be power, ground and can hi and low, but would be nice to know which is which.
I will try it out and see what happens.
BTW, on the 1 series monitor there is just a 4 pin connector for this, although two of the pins have two wires going into it, maybe they are the power and ground though, one going to the screen and the other going off to the motor to lift it up?

[darkphantom]

progress? pics?

[GETSOME]

This is by far the most interesting thread on here. It sure beats my 335 is better than your 328 and my color is better than your color.

Good luck with the project and keep us posted

[Booster4075]

You know...I haven't looked into the flip-up monitor thing. There was an interesting system out of Germany, but I hear it was expensive and the software is poor. Then again, I hear everyone gripe about the idrive software/Nav capabilities. However, I'm really just trying to do a OEM-look retrofit that looks and functions like the car came with the option. Transparent to the unknowing service advisor and technician unless he climbs into the dashboard and sees an additional harness.

The WDS says that the flip-screen motor is toggled by the K-Can bus... on connector x13822 (a 6-pin jobbie that looks like the e90)
Pin 1 is for power
Pin 3 is for ground
Pin 5 is K-Can High
Pin 6 is K-Can low
Looks like there is another connector just like the E90's for a LVDS cable.


I've been busy working but am going to start a few on-car tests tomorrow with the system. I'm working on the "temporary" harness so I can plug it all in. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have some preliminary results!!

This website has some good tech info PDF's...I downloaded all of them and they are great for easy reading reference!

http://socale90.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51

Of special interest regarding this forum were the two PDF's regarding "E90 Entertainment and Communication" (mentioned earlier in this thread), as well as "E90 Voltage Supply & Bus Systems."

The K-Can bus is broken down a bit and I have a lot more understanding of the JBE and how it relates to power distribution. I'm just hoping that without a software update that the JBE will supply my SatNav needs (ie. power/grounds/bus connections all work off the bat.) Looks like "tapping into" the K-Can bus at the radio shouldn't be a problem, but I still aim to hook up all of the components in their ideal (OEM) locations, even if its a bit more work. I like the idea of making it as close to transparent to the dealer/anyone else for warranty and future potential diagnostic reasons. I'm starting to take pictures as I go, so when/if there is a working DIY, it'll be documented for everyone to see.

Question: Not having written a DIY before, whats the best format to write it in? Word- than export to PDF? I hate the way word handles pictures - anyone have any ideas on this off-topic subject?

[gIzzE]

Well I have just put the Blaupunkt plug and play cable into my car to add their plug and play amp, so I have no problem splicing into that to test things out.
I will try and do it over the next few days.

I think that if you have bought used units, that have already been programmed for a car, they will work staight away. In teh same way you can't buy a professional radio new and it work straight out the box, you have to programme it to work, but swap it from one car to another and it works no proplem.

[Booster4075]

OKAY! Major progress...some good, some bad....

I tore my dash all apart (just short of removing the whole thing. I am now CONVINCED that there is a cable on the instrument dash harness specifically for the CID. I guess I missed what it was supposed to look like on the spare harness I have and located it today. I compared the build tag on my spare harness to the one in my car - same everything except for build date. Plus, there is only one dash/instrument harness for every car, unlike the audio harness. I took the dash all apart in attempt to find it...its completely concealed behind the center dash duct....I'm within inches of where it is supposed to be, but just couldn't see it or reach it. Its just next to the solar sensor wire accessible through the center dash speaker. Still couldn't reach it or see it with a mirror. Its likely there but unaccesable unless the dash is pulled out of the car. Here's a picture of horror for all of you...



Well, since I had it this far apart, I decided to go ahead and build a few "temporary" harnesses and try the easy way by tapping into the connections at the back of the radio. I built a four-pin connector for the i-drive controller and a connector for the back of the CID. I connected both power lines to the big fat red power cable at the back of the radio. I connected both ground wires to ground. I spliced both K-Can bus wires together and tapped to the connector on the back of the radio (still unknowing if K-can could be "tapped" or required its "own" network line.) I hooked up the LVDS cable and set it all on the center console and put in the key. Here's the result:





It sort of works!

Okay...well the 2008.1 SatNav DVD I downloaded via torrent didn't do anything since I had no antenna hooked up. The phone doesn't work since its not programmed. The radio sort of worked - it detected stations, including call signs and artist/song information, the CD appeared to play and changed songs appropriately. The controller worked flawlessly (including with haptic feedback) and lit up correctly.

Major issue: No audio whatsoever. Not when turning on..not anytime. I suspect this is a MOST programming issue with the amplifier, but there is real no way to know I guess until the system is re-programmed. The display had some interesting terms such as "tyres" and the FM dial worked in 10ths.. "97.1, 97.2, 97.3" instead of every other 10th. Other than minor country/equipment programming issues and identifying that I had the ipod adapter, etc... If the audio was working it'd be sweet!

This test also confirms that running separate bus wires to the JBE isn't really necessary, as the CCC, i-drive controller, and CID were all tapped on the two radio K-Can bus wires and it seemed to work great. I will likely hook everything up where it "belongs" when hooked up for real. I also think the power wires should go where they belong for proper power requirements/fuse issues.

Hmmm.... I guess I should order up a double-scoop dash?.........

[Booster4075]

One of the next challenges is getting the SatNav antenna hooked in...

Hmmm....It seems there is no "blue" antenna connector anywhere in the dash or center console area - this is the designated connector that hooks to the GPS side of the CCC.

Green, pink, purple (violet?) and blue connections are physically wired to my Sharkfin antenna - I pulled down the headliner in the rear just a bit and saw them hooked up by way of a mirror. It appears they all go to the telephone module in the trunk underneath the cargo cover.

I understand that the telephone module is supposed to get the GPS signal so that the BMW assist/SOS can find you in an emergency or whatever. I know that the SOS system has its own cellular antenna. What I don't know is if it shares the GPS antenna in the sharkfin or has its own.

Why does the blue antenna lead go from the sharkfin to the telephone module? ...and where does the GPS "blue" lead tie into that system.. Hmmm....

[zenmaster]

Booster4075 - While you've got the CCC out, is it possible to replace the CD player with a DVD player? i.e. is it a standard IDE?

[iatacs19]

Damn, good work, hope you get it all figured out.

[Booster4075]

I do still have it all apart. I'll take a closer look at the CD player/DVD player in the morning. I guess I'd have to ask why someone would want to swap the CD player for a DVD player...for more songs on an MP3 DVD-ROM? I seriously doubt its on any kind of IDE/SATA standard, but I'll look closer in the morning...

[purplewidow]

first of all the all cars with idrive have a different ecu!!!! the ecu is faster and has more features...how the hell are you running it... the car wasn't made for an idrive so some components that cost bank including more proccessing power were left out!! i hope you get all the features to work on this beast!! goodluck

[steaman]

Originally Posted by purplewidow

first of all the all cars with idrive have a different ecu!!!! the ecu is faster and has more features...how the hell are you running it... the car wasn't made for an idrive so some components that cost bank including more proccessing power were left out!! i hope you get all the features to work on this beast!! goodluck

What do you base your statement on? Until you convinced me on the opposite I am convinced that there is the same HW and SW but different parameter settings.

[AoshichanX]

I am VERY impressed! I am rooting for you 100%

This takes some major balls! I am interested to see how you drill that second hump

Retrofit FTW!

[Booster4075]

Originally Posted by purplewidow

first of all the all cars with idrive have a different ecu!!!! the ecu is faster and has more features...how the hell are you running it... the car wasn't made for an idrive so some components that cost bank including more proccessing power were left out!! i hope you get all the features to work on this beast!! goodluck

I too, believe that the main differences between the cars (after probably 40 hours of studying this project) are the CCC itself, the CID, the controller, the audio harness, and of course the dash and center speaker grille. I have yet to find any other major differences (LOL!) I have yet to start the car with this thing hooked up (maybe tomorrow) to see if I can get into the oil level/service status, etc... Methinks the ECU(DME) is the same.

I think a lot of these functions don't work off the bat due to programming only. Or at least I hope. I noticed tonight that AM radio stations are not on 10-khz steps..interesting. Another Euro thing I guess. I'm hoping the MOST programming along with new progman software will bring this up to speed.

Does anyone know about the service/diagnostic menu? I got into it, but could only look, not play as I once thought. I would like to do a hard-reboot on this thing to see if it changes anything. I'm sure the US progman will make the big difference. Wiring wise, it is VERY easy to hook this up. If the CID harness is actually hidden in my dash (as I suspect), the only "custom" wiring is for the i-drive controller...4 wires, and for the fan on the back....3 wires. Easy! I'll keep everyone updated. I plan to order the double-scoop dash tomorrow and once I rip that out, I'll know a little more. I would like to solve this antenna wiring mystery before I start this ripping & tearing!

[Desi]

Dude, your progress is astounding! Major props on getting this far!

As for a DIY, I think for something of this caliber a .pdf is in order, image links die and posts may get deleted, but a .pdf file will get downloaded and circulate forever. A .doc file is really easy to be tampered with.

If you like, just type up a diy in Word and I can pretty it all up for you and put it into a .pdf.