[Die_sel]

Hi Guys,
New to BMW here. Hoping you guys could shed some light on some questions. Been reading the board for a couple of days and have picked up great info. Just got a 2011 330D, 100k Km. log book says recent service was at 100k. I would like to do preventative maintenance so need your advice .

-Will be doing oil/filter change every 10k
-Will be doing minor work - I do a lot of work on my Honda crv - brakes/cv joints/suspension/bushing etc., so not shy to get my hands dirty.

Now for the questions, and I do apologize that these may have been answered before but I tried searching, some were clear and some did not apply.

-What should I check/do now? Gaskets?Fluids?Filters? Anything should I replace to prevent any failures?
-Got a list of recommended online stores to get my parts, FCP Euro, ECSTuning, Clickable, ebay UK...Did I miss Anything?
-Tools - I mainly have tools for my CRV, what can you recommend as some of the required hand tools needed to work on the car?
-Should I be checking the chain tensioner? or can it be checked? I read that the timing chain might be a problem for this engine, what can i do to kepp it tip top?
-North Western Sydney - any recommended indie for when I don't have the expertise to carry out the task?
-Advice?

Thanks for dropping by, again apologies for the repeat question, just a bit overwhelmed at the moment trying to take in info.

[Trev88]

As it's over 100k, I would suggest a transmission service for piece of mind.

[Ken Oath]

Welcome to the forum and well done on your BMW purchase.
Buying a BMW diesel won't require you to visit this forum.

Maintenance on the reliable N57 is filters and fluid changes at the prescribed intervals. The ZF6HP26 transmission is coupled perfectly to the torque of the N57. The ATF, as already mentioned, should be changed if not already having done so. Whilst doing the transmission it's very easy to change the fuel filter to.

Tools needed for completing maintenance work is mostly having E-torx and torx head drivers.

Timing chain issues are mainly with the N47 engine. The N57 uses the same setup but slightly different engineering.

The greatest performance modification is deleting the DPF. This along with a required tune will comfortably return a 40% increase in torque and rwkW. If you are satisfied with current performance the DPF will provide 250,000km's of driving.

To obtain parts it is better to purchase from Europe as the 330D was not imported to the USA. Try schmiedmann.com

Enjoy.

[Die_sel]

WOW Thanks guys for the quick reply. Ok will do the tranny oil after my youtube diploma course.
ok wont touch the filters and fluid until prescribed. Already ordering the E-torx/torx.
Great to hear that the timing chain is not much of an issue phew.
Looking at some previous post, dpf delete would cost around 1500 in sydney? That's some great returns though.
Yes, tried looking at US forums, was a bit confused why 330d never came up, now I know.

Well fellas, thanks for clearing some things up. Now to play with my new toy

[Trev88]

If you do a DPF delete be sure to do a tune as well to remove the regen cycle! Good upgrade for power and reliability if you do remove it

[Die_sel]

If I do a DPF Delete, I'm thinking of getting it taken out and welded back, ecu remap then dyno to tune it. Is that how it should normally go?

Do you guys have any recommendation in Sydney who does this?

Any downsides of doing this? Would the wear and tear be more significant?

[Socket]

Trev created a thread just for the D cars
Lots of helpful stuff in here

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169716

[Die_sel]

thanks

[Ken Oath]

There are two ways to delete the DPF.

1. Remove the DPF, gut the internals, put it back and then remap.
2. Remove the DPF, install downpipe and then remap.

Removing the DPF is difficult.
By using an aftermarket DP it allows the removed DPF to be used again or sold. Choosing a DP also allows for the fitment of a CAT. With not having a DPF in place there will be an increase in smoke and smell and a CAT can help reduce this with no rwkW loss.

If a DP with no CAT is used it makes fitment a lot easier as the difficulty removing the DPF has to be repeated when re-installing the gutted DPF.

Using a gutted DPF and then tuning it is difficult to adjust the VNT maps as the turbo can bounce off the limiter because the gutted DPF creates turbulent flow from the void.

Two aftermarket DP are Supersprint and Wagner approx 700AUD.

[Trev88]

There's also an ecotune DP option available that supply's with cat or without cats. Note that as you are having an LCI model, you are not able to just reflash the ECU it needs a proper remap. And the irony is without the DPF your turbos lasts longer less wear and better fuel economy!

[Ken Oath]

Tools are available to flash via OBD to EDC17CP09.
I would not recommend Ecorubbish. Plenty of information available to support this position.

[Die_sel]

Ok so I'm thinking of doing the transmission. I can't definitively figure out which part for the oil pan filter. When I check the part number and it says it's for the trans GA6HP-26Z, the some website doesn't list it as compatible with 330d model. Any 330d owners out there that could give me advice where to buy these parts specifically? Also after doing the tranny job, do you really have to do the reset/inpa?

Oh and which brand of engine oil do you guys recommend? any feedback on the MOTUL brand for the diesel? Thanks

Lastly, in the future, im thinking of doing the dpf delete and tuning like the BMR one that I was reading. Do I have to the the DPF delete first then do the ecu tuning? thanks for stopping by.

[Ken Oath]

http://www.motospecs.com.au

P/N 0501 216 243 Oil Pan with integrated filter (21 hole) ~ $126
ZF lifeguard 6 (8L) ~ $36per/L

Tools needed:
10mm Socket
T40 torx
Torque wrench
Drain Plug: 10 mm allen key (8Nm)
Filler Plug: 8mm allen key (35Nm)
Plastic Oil Pan: Torx 40 M6 x 28.5 (21) - 10Nm

It's not mandatory to reset adaptions however as the fluid viscosity will change with new fluid it is good practise.

DPF delete and the tune ideally should be completed at the same time.
If they cannot be done at the same time then do not drive the vehicle until completed.

[Die_sel]

Thanks Ken.
Will give them a ring today.
Regarding the DPF delete, you mentioned that a cat can be added to reduce the smoke. Wouldn't the cat build up some clogging too?

[Die_sel]

Hi Ken,
Thanks for recommending the merchant to get the parts, I actually upgraded to get the metal oil pan as they have it available so in the future all i need to change are the filters. I'll probably get this done over the weekend.

[Ken Oath]

ZF developed the steel pan for Land Rover because of the narrow space from a chassis cross member running underneath the pan. It is not required for BMW's and decreases the oil capacity by 1 litre. Having less fluid will require more frequent OIC as the oil will enter the high temperature strategy and degrade as well as contain more suspended particles and contribute to wear.

Compression ignition engines use a two way DOC to reduce carbon (soot) as the carbon particles have a layer of hydrocarbon. The OEM DPF has a DOC prior to the particulate filter so the soot that is not handled by the DOC and becomes obstructed in the particulate filter and requires a regen. It is the particulate filter which becomes obstructed and requires a regen not the DOC.

In a spark ignition engine a three way catalytic converter handles nitrogen oxides and cannot be compared with a two way DOC.

[Die_sel]

Oh, so you mean the metal one is not recomended....damn I think it's going out today, not sure if I can still cancel, i'll make a call....

[Die_sel]

Parts came for transmission and have done the change.
Been busy on the weekend and did oil change as well, bled the brakes, changed fuel filter, air filter and cabin filter.

Car is not complaining at the moment so all good. Thanks Ken for the tips...

Oh by the way, I was looking at DP's....Wagner and SuperSprint are approx over $1000, where did you get the 700 price?

[Ken Oath]

https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/produ...duct=500001020

https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/produ...product=981211

VRSF have also just started manufacturing a nice DP for 335D for $270 USD. Unfortunately 335D stuff is not compatible with 330D N57. The US market has some real nice DP's but no European manufacturer's are producing anything like them.

http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-335d-st...-bmw-335d.html

When you are doing transmission oil change and brake bleeding there is certain procedure's to follow.
There is plenty of DIY instructional information so you can be conversant with the techniques.

[Die_sel]

Thanks Ken, always resourceful....

When I did my transmission here were the steps.

-Warmed the car a bit.
-Undo fill plug
-undo drain plug
-undo transmission tray
-take off mechatronics sleeve
-wipe down the drips
-oil transmission gasket and that gasket on top of that filter on the new tranmission tray and gasket on new mechatronic sleeve
-put the mechatronic sleeve back and torqued the transmission tray 10nm. I know it was recommended to use new bolts, I just reused the old one.
-fill the transmission with zf6 till it was overflowing.
-put the drain plug but not tight
-start the car with brakes on, 5 seconds each in P->N->R->D->1->2->3->4->5->6
-put the car back in P, undid transmission fill plug left the car running till the fluid reached 40celsius(used thermometer)
-filled the transmission with oil again until it was overflowing
-Torqued the fill bolt to 35nm

Was this about right?

With the brakes:
-took off the brake fluid reservoir and used basting tool to take out fluid till it's minimum.
-filled reservoir with different colour brake fluid
-attached brake bleeder tool to vaccum pump the old fluid.
-vacuum was created first before loosening the bleeder valve
-vacuumed out brake fluid until it was the colour of the new fluid while making sure that the reservoir did not empty out.
-did it for the 3 other corners making sure that reservoir was always full before starting the bleed and making sure that they never get too low.
-pumped the brakes a couple of times
-check max level on reservoir

These were my steps, was this ok?

[Ken Oath]

All good.

The mechatronic sleeve on the ZF6HP26 is not affected by the O-ring leak so it shouldn't need changing. Replacing it could lead to a possible introduced point of failure due to the access restrictions. The pan fasteners are also upgraded on the ZF6HP26 compared to the ZF6HP19/21 variants and there is no requirement to replace.

With most modern vehicles part of the brake bleed procedure requires cycling the ABS pump. BMW and Motorrad all have it is part of the procedure and can be accessed by software via OBD port.

As an example using BMW ISTA+ (dealer level diagnositic software) it is possible to cycle ABS, fuel pump, check transmission temperature and reset adaptions as part of maintenance plans.

Add this cable to your purchase list and download the freely available software (on the same website) and you will have all the tools needed.

https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...eeks-pro-cable

[Die_sel]

Ah great thanks Ken! it'll make my life easier!