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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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2011 E93 rear toe and camber adjustment
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12-01-2018, 06:46 AM | #1 |
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2011 E93 rear toe and camber adjustment
I have the toe-plates, so I have done front alignment on my car no problem. But I want to know which bolt to adjust for toe and camber on the back? And does the car needs to be raised at all?
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12-01-2018, 11:28 AM | #2 |
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You need to adjust both the lower middle and lower rear control arm in the rear to adjust toe.
Since adjust one affects the other you cannot just adjust one. But the rear lower is the so called "toe-arm". Be careful, if the eccentric adjustment screws have not been anti-seized or touched in awhile they might be impossible to remove. Good luck! |
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12-01-2018, 02:43 PM | #3 | |
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Also, how important is it to have the weights in the car when doing these alignments? do you know? Alignment Spec.pdf Also do you know what I need to do adjust my rear camber? which component in my diagram? its eating my inner tires like crazy. |
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12-01-2018, 03:06 PM | #4 | |
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I don't see the point of having weights in the car, but at least It cannot hurt. Your tyres are wearing the insides because of a bad toe angle (too much toe out). Ideally you was 0,10° toe in for the rear and 0,00° toe for the front. |
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12-01-2018, 03:20 PM | #5 | |
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12-01-2018, 03:36 PM | #6 | |
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You need to adjust camber and toe at the same time. You have adjustments on both arm no. 3 and 5. Do you have a way of measuring your toe and camber angles? |
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12-04-2018, 06:22 AM | #7 | |
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12-04-2018, 12:43 PM | #8 |
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The car should be flat on the ground. If you have had it up in the air you need to roll it forward/backward to let the tension out of the control arms.
I have two marine plywood pieces under each tyre when I adjust my alignment. Between the two pieces of plywood I put a film of engine oil to make them slide effortlessly. Just so any tension is removed. This way I can adjust and measure my adjustments more accurately. Of course you might want to raise the car up in the air to loosen all the adjustment bolts and stuff, but when you are adjusting you can easily reach in and do the adjustments and tighten somewhat. Then you can raise the car and tighten everything down properly. Last edited by DialedIn; 12-04-2018 at 12:53 PM.. |
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12-05-2018, 04:43 PM | #9 | |
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12-08-2018, 11:55 AM | #12 | |
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Do you know a way to test out the bushing? I know the x5, you have to release the pressure from the suspension before you can shake the tire. do you know if that works the same way as E90? |
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12-08-2018, 12:06 PM | #13 | |
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Also, by visual inspection you can get an idea of the current state of the rubber in the bushings. If they're cracked and look old, it might be time to get new ones. I have never messed with any suspension bushings on my E92, I got a complete set of polyurethane ones and swapped out everything. |
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12-08-2018, 12:15 PM | #14 | |
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12-08-2018, 01:53 PM | #15 |
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They might require a total dissembly and re-greasing in the near future, and they do transfer a lot more tyre and differential noise into the cabin.
Unless you can live with the noise and you've got a 10.000 kg press, car lift and alignment rack I wouldn't recommend it. I do recommend switching the rear subframe bushings for the stiffest you can find, preferably aluminum ones. - getting rid of the rear bounce makes the rear shock absorbers actually able to do their job! |
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12-08-2018, 10:55 PM | #16 | |
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Will these do it? http://www.powerflex.co.uk/i/product_images/5-420fi.pdf If not, can you link what you recommend? |
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12-09-2018, 02:00 PM | #17 | |
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12-09-2018, 05:21 PM | #18 | |
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Thank you for all your knowledge by the way! |
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12-10-2018, 11:18 AM | #19 |
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It is not an easy job. I have a car lift and a transmission jack stand and it was still difficult. You have to lower the subframe off the car which is kinda sketchy. - A torch would probably be very helpful!
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