[jm57335d]

Sorry for the long post, looking for advice on many codes. I know most of the work is needed, but am looking to resolve the limp mode first and work my way through the replacements and other cleanings over time. This is my first post, but I am trying to capture something that I think could be helpful for other 335ders out.

Background/history:
I bought an '09 335d with ~97k miles on it a couple years back and love the torque. However, in the first ~500miles I started seeing the SES come on. Took it back to the dealer and they replaced the EGR.

A few k miles later, the light came back. I had autozone pull the code, they said it was MAF, so I cleaned MAF, reset code and seemed good to go.

A few k later and light was back again. This time I had the dealer pull codes and they wanted $9k to do CBU. :-) I just asked for the car back and tried some CRC. Again, this seemed ok for a while.

I am now at ~127k and have been struggling with limp mode. After digging through the posts and inspecting my car, I found a pinhole leak in the charger innercooler tubes. So, I replaced both according to a great post on another forum site. Then reset the codes. I also found the turbo oil line was leaking pretty bad so I replaced it.

Current
Limp mode still occurs. Now I have read many posts and think I may have a bit of work ahead of me. :-) That is ok, but I would like to do the work in the best steps possible and am not sure where to start.

CBU cleaning Needed
From reading many posts for my 33 codes, I know I will need to do the CBU for sure. But I am suspecting the CBU may not be the root cause of the limp mode?

I see that there is carbon on the top of the engine all around the intake manifold, so I am wondering if there could be a leak there? When the CBU cleaning is done at this mileage what other parts should I just change out since they are old and I am already there?

DDE Program to Resolve Codes?
Also, I suspect the DDE needs to be reflashed from some posts i have read the CBU gets done, then there are several injector swaps, MAF... and the DDE flash resolves the limp mode after the part swaps didn't resolve. :-) I work with code for a living. So am comfortable with messing in this area, but I am wondering what I would need to do the DDE and adaptation resets? I assume these are not rolled back to factory, but some update that resets the training info and triggers a retrain?

I am also thinking this many codes could be something more with the ECU?

Vacuum Lines
Another thought I had from these posts is the vacuum lines look like they may be 127k miles old, so this could be a major issue, but I am not sure how to test/confirm and if I do the vacuum lines should I just replace the actuators while I am in there or just do the lines? What about the pump? Is there a good way to systematically test all of this? I haven't seen it in the posts up to now.


Recommendations and Codes
What do you recommend to start with? My last test was to add seafoam(I know this is DI and it won't clean the valves, but think it may help some of the other components clean up or stay cleaner after the work) After this, I reset the codes idled for ~1minute and drove ~50 miles. The codes that never cleared were:
Codes that didn't Clear

OBD2:
P02D3 (permanent) - Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit
P0425 (permanent) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0101 (permanent) - Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Range/Performance

Heater & air conditioning:
E72E

Center roof module:
A670

By the time I got to work, I had the SES back on. The codes at this point were:
Codes After SES Back

OBD2:
P02D3 (confirmed) - Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit
P042A (pending) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0425 (pending) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P02D3 (pending) - Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit
P0101 (permanent) - Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P0425 (permanent) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P02D3 (permanent) - Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit

Engine:
4595
4592
4593
4C09 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor before DPF- Plausibility
4C04 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor before Cat- Plausibility
4B05 - Zero Quantity Adaptation Injector 4

Heater & air conditioning:
E72E

Junction box (passenger) (JBBF):
A6D1 - JBE: auxiliary water pump

Center roof module:
A670

After the workday, I drove another ~35 miles and got the limp mode in the last ~10 miles of the trip. When I finished the drive Here were the codes:
Codes after limp mode back

OBD2:
P042A (confirmed) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0425 (confirmed) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P02D3 (confirmed) - Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit
P0402 (confirmed) - Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Flow Excessive Detected
P042A (pending) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0425 (pending) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P02D3 (pending) - Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit
P0402 (pending) - Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Flow Excessive Detected
P242C (pending) - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 3
P0101 (permanent) - Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P042A (permanent) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0425 (permanent) - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P02D3 (permanent) - Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit

Engine:
4595
4592
4593
4C09 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor before DPF- Plausibility
4C04 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor before Cat- Plausibility
4B05 - Zero Quantity Adaptation Injector 4
4B81
4868
4D5C

Heater & air conditioning:
E72E

Junction box (passenger) (JBBF):
A6D1 - JBE: auxiliary water pump

Center roof module:
A670

Thanks in advance!

[Yozh]

Do get CBU done. What state are you in? Reset adaptations. You do not need to update the DDE but latest updates had some improvements to all the injector related codes that were thrown due to CBU. You do not need to replace injectors. Please do get the vacuum lines done. Pump usually ok. If you have not done all the regular servicing then you should. Egt codes are a bit of a worry. Do you monitor your DPF regens?

[jm57335d]

Thanks for the reply Yozh, I have read several of your advisements throughout these forums and appreciate your valuable feedback.

Do get CBU done.

I figured that would be the response, but hoping that there might be something else I was missing. :-)

What state are you in?

Arizona. The dealership told me $9k for CBU cleaning! So, I will likely do this myself, I think I have seen some posts with the instructions. I bought the car for $9k, not spending another 9k to clean it. It looks do-able and I will likely just buy a new Intake manifold as it sounds like this is really hard to get clean?
What about the swirl flap deletes, does this require special steps/flashing? What do you recommend. Also, it looks like I would still pass emissions without them, right?

Reset adaptations.

I may have seen a post about this and will look again. Any advice on device/sw needed and/or steps/post to follow? I only currently have a cheap carista OBD scanner right now, but am willing to get the right stuff to do the job. (This will save a ton compared to the stealership.)

You do not need to update the DDE but latest updates had some improvements to all the injector related codes that were thrown due to CBU.

Thanks for this, the stealership told me I have the latest SW. So, I am probably good here, anyways.

You do not need to replace injectors.

Thanks again, wasn't sure. Do these need to be pulled and cleaned or they should be fine?

Please do get the vacuum lines done.

Yes, this part is definitely going to be done, it looks like it will be easier with the manifold off. So, I will probably do this at the same time. I have seen different recommendations here. Do you have a recommendation on where to get the lines? It looks like ~10 feet is all that is needed?

Pump usually ok. If you have not done all the regular servicing then you should.

I have done all the regular servicing recommended by the stealership for the last 30k miles(as long as I have owned it) not sure what happened for the first 97k. My turbo actuator valve moves after the car starts, does that mean it's ok or should I go ahead and pull the Pump as a preventative measure since I don't have records before I bought the car?

Egt codes are a bit of a worry. Do you monitor your DPF regens?

Yes, they concerned me as well. I wasn't sure if the aux pump had anything to do with it, but it looks like the aux cooler is only for Rest and doesn't go anywhere else? I haven't monitored DPF regens. I would have to look this up as well.

Sorry, I bought this car for my commuter because it's fun and gets great mileage...and the price was right. I am pretty handy, but newer to working on my own vehicle. When I bought it, I was thinking I would mod it over time for more performance, but first I need to deal with these issues. I see a lot of complaints about this work, but it seems like most vehicles need work around 100k, this doesn't seem too bad of a return on investment, as long as I can get her running well again. So I appreciate your guidance as I learn my way around this beast.

Thanks!