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      09-26-2021, 03:20 PM   #1
Jlively
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07 335i coupe no sound

As of yesterday I have bought an 07 335i coupe with the upgraded speakers, i saw the car 3 times and every single time i did the guy said that the audio would work on and off, so far i have never heard the audio in the car working. There is no SOS and no audio for anything however i can see time and date working and it does let me choose stations on the radio but no sound at all even the door being open.

Fast forward to today i started looking into the problem, I know that a lot of audio problem are with the fiber optic cables, i open the trunk to look at it and see that both the navigation module and the satellite radio module is gone and non of the wires are plugged in. However the fiber optic cable has no light coming out of it.

Would this be the reason behind the sound not working or is it a different problem. he said that he had subs in the back in which he has taken out but the wires are still there. Is there a quick fix to this. And what would I have to do to fix this issue.
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      09-26-2021, 05:02 PM   #2
ctuna
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You have to know which sound system the car came with first.
Run mdecoder.com and look for 676 , 677 or 678 which will indicate
the Hi Fi or Logic 7 system.

All the car gongs come through the stereo on most all models but the 06.
So no stereo no car gongs.

Check for your amplifier in the trunk behind the US passenger side wheel well .
The 07 has a TCU it's in the Trunk to run bluetooth phone and SOS it's not
a navigation module.

BMW stereo types
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352586
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780865
http://bmwcoders.com/forum/3-er-8/bm...1-e92-e93-291/
http://technicpnp.com/menuDiagrams/d...e90_92_93.html
http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1169133185
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...4&d=1278871872
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343673
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/e...n-752.1275694/
base system wiring pre/post 3/09
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post16679904
Base System Guide
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...5&d=1493273253

If its modified anything could be happening.
Even with a dead amp the stock head unit display should at least go through the motions
of moving through the Radio stations and changing sources or the Idrive functions
if it's and Idrive car.

You first need to educate yourself about the various Head Units
idrive or pro radio
and the different sound systems and attached modules .
Use mdecoder.com to see what the car came with.
Read the first few links and check the amp area.
There are many thread on troubleshooting the Most loop and no audio problem here already.
Try the advanced search in this forum with the parameter "No Sound"

Best to check some real basic stuff like are there actually speakers in the car and a amplifier
if you found no modules in the trunk assuming you where looking in the right place.
why would you take his word for it?
Maybe you should ask him about the state of it?

Last edited by ctuna; 09-26-2021 at 05:38 PM..
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      09-26-2021, 09:49 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jlively View Post
As of yesterday I have bought an 07 335i coupe with the upgraded speakers, i saw the car 3 times and every single time i did the guy said that the audio would work on and off, so far i have never heard the audio in the car working. There is no SOS and no audio for anything however i can see time and date working and it does let me choose stations on the radio but no sound at all even the door being open.

Fast forward to today i started looking into the problem, I know that a lot of audio problem are with the fiber optic cables, i open the trunk to look at it and see that both the navigation module and the satellite radio module is gone and non of the wires are plugged in. However the fiber optic cable has no light coming out of it.

Would this be the reason behind the sound not working or is it a different problem. he said that he had subs in the back in which he has taken out but the wires are still there. Is there a quick fix to this. And what would I have to do to fix this issue.
My issue was the fiber optic cable. I had 0 sound. The fiber optic loop cable is $10-15, it doesn't hurt to try it
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      09-26-2021, 10:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
You have to know which sound system the car came with first.
Run mdecoder.com and look for 676 , 677 or 678 which will indicate
the Hi Fi or Logic 7 system.

All the car gongs come through the stereo on most all models but the 06.
So no stereo no car gongs.

Check for your amplifier in the trunk behind the US passenger side wheel well .
The 07 has a TCU it's in the Trunk to run bluetooth phone and SOS it's not
a navigation module.

If its modified anything could be happening.
Even with a dead amp the stock head unit display should at least go through the motions
of moving through the Radio stations and changing sources or the Idrive functions
if it's and Idrive car.

You first need to educate yourself about the various Head Units
idrive or pro radio
and the different sound systems and attached modules .
Use mdecoder.com to see what the car came with.
Read the first few links and check the amp area.
There are many thread on troubleshooting the Most loop and no audio problem here already.
Try the advanced search in this forum with the parameter "No Sound"

Best to check some real basic stuff like are there actually speakers in the car and a amplifier
if you found no modules in the trunk assuming you where looking in the right place.
why would you take his word for it?
Maybe you should ask him about the state of it?
I have found out that my system is an Idrive CCC. so would it matter at all that the modules in the trunk of the car under the cover where the spare goes is missing, or is the only problem my amp? I really dont want to upgrade the stereo as audio is not that very important to me but at the same time i do need audio. wheres the best place to start. ive looked at some forums but I really dont understand any of the lingo and im still hung up on if the satellite radio module is needed or not. I can go into the Idrive menu and I can look at the radio frequencies and go into the aux there is just no audio at all in the car. please excuse my lack of knowledge I am very terrible at things that have to do with electricity and wiring.
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      09-26-2021, 10:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis561 View Post
My issue was the fiber optic cable. I had 0 sound. The fiber optic loop cable is $10-15, it doesn't hurt to try it
I was really hoping it would be the fiber optic cable but I looked and all of the wires that go to the satellite radio and such are unplugged and the unit is missing, there is also zero light emitting from the wire in the first place so I was thinking that buying one might just be a lost cause.
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      09-26-2021, 10:31 PM   #6
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There is no simple answer.
You have to know what was in the car to begin with.
If devices are missing in the Trunk it could mean they were
never there or it could mean they were removed.
All devices that are programmed to be in the Fiberoptic
Loop must be there for the system to work .
If you have Logic 7 this is even more true because the amp
is part of the fiber optic loop.

Additionally the FiberOptic Loop must be intact .
The satellite module is and option if it was never installed getting one
of those will make no difference at all.

You have to understand the system before you go blindly throwing parts at it.

Use Mdecoder.com to find out which 6 hundred options (audio and sat and bluetooth options )
it came with. YOU MUST FIND OUT EXACTLY WHAT THE CAR CAME WITH FROM THE
FACTORY.! That will tell you what modules to look for.

If you have Logic 7 one of the common problems is water gets on the amplifier and shorts it out.
(So visually inspect the Amplifier the location is indicated in the Entertainment pdf)
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
Followed by dead Most Bus Modules.
A low battery can also be the problem.

Last edited by ctuna; 09-26-2021 at 10:49 PM..
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      09-27-2021, 11:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
There is no simple answer.
You have to know what was in the car to begin with.
If devices are missing in the Trunk it could mean they were
never there or it could mean they were removed.
All devices that are programmed to be in the Fiberoptic
Loop must be there for the system to work .
If you have Logic 7 this is even more true because the amp
is part of the fiber optic loop.

Additionally the FiberOptic Loop must be intact .
The satellite module is and option if it was never installed getting one
of those will make no difference at all.

You have to understand the system before you go blindly throwing parts at it.

Use Mdecoder.com to find out which 6 hundred options (audio and sat and bluetooth options )
it came with. YOU MUST FIND OUT EXACTLY WHAT THE CAR CAME WITH FROM THE
FACTORY.! That will tell you what modules to look for.

If you have Logic 7 one of the common problems is water gets on the amplifier and shorts it out.
(So visually inspect the Amplifier the location is indicated in the Entertainment pdf)
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
Followed by dead Most Bus Modules.
A low battery can also be the problem.

S609 Navigation System Professional
S620 Voice Control
S640 Preparation F Tel.Installation Universal
S645 BMW US Radio
S677 HiFi System Professional DSP
S693 Preparation BMW Satellite Radio
S694 Provisions For BMW 6 CD Changer
S6UH Traffic Information
That is everything that the mdecoder site tells me about the multimedia system in my car. so does this mean that i now need to buy another satellite radio since it was in the car from the start. I will definitely check the amp as soon as i get home for anything that i think is out of the ordinary, the link you sent does not let me open it for some reason. Thank you for your help this far i am definitely starting to understand it a little more. I am definitely a little confused as the guy who sold me it said it had the upgraded sound system which as far as my knowledge goes would be the L7 but it says i have the Hifi system however i do have the speakers on the inside of the doors next to the side mirrors so I am a little confused there as well did hifi also come with the side mirror speakers.

Last edited by Jlively; 09-27-2021 at 11:44 AM..
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      09-27-2021, 12:22 PM   #8
ctuna
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So the module that was not there in the first place should not be
replaced.
NO SAT MODULE. Sat has nothing to do with your problems.
It also confirms you have the Logic 7 amplifier and and the associated
speakers or should have .

Prep means the option is not there.
NO SAT MODULE
Provisions means the option is not there.
NO CD CHANGER
The car never had a satellite module but the wiring is present though not hooked up for one.
(but the wiring is in case you want to retrofit it)
(however rerouting Most Bus and programming is required)



Proofessional Hi Fi DSP system is Logic 7 also called Top Hi Fi or option 677
9 channel amp 13 speakers in which tweeters are counted as speakers .
Different from the Hi Fi which is a 6 channel amp with 10 speakers.
This is explained 3 or 4 times in the links provided.
Top Hi Fi or logic 7 has a center dash speaker and logic 7 settings and a graphic equalizer
control in the Head Unit.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352586
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447


Your next step should be to look at the Logic 7 amplifier behind the rear driver side
wheel well . Check for Water in that area and read the status Led's on the amplifier.

https://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837

If you look in that same link as the last one I posted it will tell you where things are.


https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...light=No+Sound

This amplifier is different than E65 Logic7 amplifier, it runs different software and cannot be installed on either. This amplifier has 9 channels vs E65 with only 5 channels. This amplifier controls all the speakers on the car, so if it goes bad you will not hear any sound in any speaker. But not always amplifier is the problem, in some cases other modules go bad, interrupting MOST network and you will not hear any sound even with working amplifier. So here i will explain how to diagnose if it is the amplifier or something else went wrong.
This amplifier has a diagnostic LED, which will show lots of things you most likely don't know about. Here you can see where it is located. So look at that LED, turn on the radio and look at it:
basically: blinking yellow -check or bypass sat tuner or Bluetooth tel module no yellow- amp is bad steady yellow but no sound or bad sound- amp is bad e60L7led

Steady yellow means its getting input fiber optic signal from the head unit (CCC or CIC) and output signal travels to the head unit correctly through other units , so you should hear the sound in most cases, but rarely it also could be some software glitch with CCC, when you don't get sound with working amp. Try CCC reset.
Blinking yellow means AMPLIFIER IS WORKING and getting input signal from the head unit, but output signal is somewhere lost due to the next bad unit in the loop. So you just need to find a bad unit and either bypass it or replace it with a working one. Most common units to fail are: Sirius satellite unit, Bluetooth telephone unit

No Yellow LED, but you can see blinknig red LED deep inside most likely means 3 things:
amp is bad
no power getting to the amp check last 2 thick wires red and brown 12V should be present always, otherwise check fuses in the trunk.
No fiber optic input getting into the amp from head unit, but in this case you should see a red LED on for 15-20secs, this means amp is waiting for a signal and if no signal present it will go to sleep mode. Easy to check, you should see a blinking red LED in the CAR CONNECTOR with the amp fiber optic connector disconnected. If its blinking it means head unit is sending signal to the amp and amp CPU has to accept it and send the output signal back to other units and head unit eventually. Rarely, But if no red led present in the connector it means no signal is coming from the head unit due to either bad head unit or some fiber optic wire damage. If you remove head unit and you see a red light blinking, you should see the same blinking at the amp connector.

So basically you should get steady yellow LED at the amp, which will indicate the network is working, bypass not working modules and if amp is good you will get sound back to your car!
These amps are much better design compared to E65 design, but they still go bad due to following reasons:

Water damage especially on convertibles 6 series, almost always we see this problem: E64LEAKIt happens when water drainage pipes get clogged up with dirt and thanks to smart design all water leaks onto the amp and other units. Please always clean those pipes with compressed air and some soap. On 3 series we see rear taillight bolts getting loose and therefore it leaks water inside.
Actual CPU failure or other things go bad inside the amp. We can help in this case, but can not guarantee 100% success, usually we see 60-70% success rate vs 90% e65. Good thing these amps are quite cheap on Ebay or junk yards, or new from the dealer 1200$.

HOW TO BYPASS NON WORKING MODULE??? EASY! GET THIS P/N FROM ANY BMW DEALER 61136917541, YOU CAN GET IT ONLINE FROM ECS TUNNING ECS TUNNING FIBRE OPTIC JUMPER. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE INNER PART WITH SOME FLAT SCREWDRIVER OR A KNIFE, YOU CAN ALSO USE ZIP TIE IF YOU PLAN TO photo 2(1)photo 1photo 1photo 2photo 3
IF YOU DECIDED YOU NEED HELP WITH AMP REPAIR 350$ PAYPAL PAYED TO LOGIC7REPAIR@GMAIL.COM.
We have also EBAY add, so you can see real feedback.CLICK THIS LINK BELOW, MAKE A 350$ PAYMENT, PRINT A RECEIPT AND INCLUDE IT IN THE BOX WITH YOUR AMPLIFIER OR ASK UNIT AND SEND IT TO OUR ADDRESS (SEE BELOW). USUALLY IT TAKES 1-2 DAYS TO REBUILD IT AND 2-3 DAYS SHIPPING. INEXPENSIVE AND FASTEST SHIPPING IS USPS PRIORITY MEDIUM BOX (12$).
THIS AMP IS QUITE COMPLEX INSIDE AND YOU CAN SEE NOT MANY OFFER THIS REPAIR, SOME OFFER IT AT 500$++ FOR A REASON, IN SOME CASES LIKE BAD WATER DAMAGE OR SUCH ITS NOT EVEN FIXABLE.

Last edited by ctuna; 09-27-2021 at 06:02 PM..
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      09-30-2021, 04:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
basically: blinking yellow -check or bypass sat tuner or Bluetooth tel module no yellow- amp is bad steady yellow but no sound or bad sound- amp is bad e60L7led

Steady yellow means its getting input fiber optic signal from the head unit (CCC or CIC) and output signal travels to the head unit correctly through other units , so you should hear the sound in most cases, but rarely it also could be some software glitch with CCC, when you don't get sound with working amp. Try CCC reset.
Blinking yellow means AMPLIFIER IS WORKING and getting input signal from the head unit, but output signal is somewhere lost due to the next bad unit in the loop. So you just need to find a bad unit and either bypass it or replace it with a working one. Most common units to fail are: Sirius satellite unit, Bluetooth telephone unit

No Yellow LED, but you can see blinknig red LED deep inside most likely means 3 things:
amp is bad
no power getting to the amp check last 2 thick wires red and brown 12V should be present always, otherwise check fuses in the trunk.
No fiber optic input getting into the amp from head unit, but in this case you should see a red LED on for 15-20secs, this means amp is waiting for a signal and if no signal present it will go to sleep mode. Easy to check, you should see a blinking red LED in the CAR CONNECTOR with the amp fiber optic connector disconnected. If its blinking it means head unit is sending signal to the amp and amp CPU has to accept it and send the output signal back to other units and head unit eventually. Rarely, But if no red led present in the connector it means no signal is coming from the head unit due to either bad head unit or some fiber optic wire damage. If you remove head unit and you see a red light blinking, you should see the same blinking at the amp connector.

So basically you should get steady yellow LED at the amp, which will indicate the network is working, bypass not working modules and if amp is good you will get sound back to your car!
These amps are much better design compared to E65 design, but they still go bad due to following reasons:

Water damage especially on convertibles 6 series, almost always we see this problem: E64LEAKIt happens when water drainage pipes get clogged up with dirt and thanks to smart design all water leaks onto the amp and other units. Please always clean those pipes with compressed air and some soap. On 3 series we see rear taillight bolts getting loose and therefore it leaks water inside.
Actual CPU failure or other things go bad inside the amp. We can help in this case, but can not guarantee 100% success, usually we see 60-70% success rate vs 90% e65. Good thing these amps are quite cheap on Ebay or junk yards, or new from the dealer 1200$.
alright i have finally gotten the amp out and accessible and have started the car and gone to the radio. i then went to the trunk and looked at the amp and there is no yellow light. however there is a red light that is not flashing that stays on inside of the amp towards the outside part of it on the opposite side of where the cables are plugged in. i disconnected the fiber optic cable and the cable itself was red and was blinking every other 2 seconds or so. what does this mean? bad amp? i looked around in the area and there does seems to be some water near the amp. when i unplug the fiber optic cable the red steady light inside of the amp disappears immediately

Last edited by Jlively; 09-30-2021 at 08:27 PM..
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      09-30-2021, 10:33 PM   #10
ctuna
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This is right from the last entry

1)"No Yellow LED, but you can see blinknig red LED deep inside most likely means 3 things:
amp is bad
no power getting to the amp check last 2 thick wires red and brown 12V should be present always, otherwise check fuses in the trunk.
2)No fiber optic input getting into the amp from head unit, but in this case you should see a red LED on for 15-20secs, this means amp is waiting for a signal and if no signal present it will go to sleep mode. Easy to check, you should see a blinking red LED in the CAR CONNECTOR with the amp fiber optic connector disconnected. If its blinking it means head unit is sending signal to the amp and amp CPU has to accept it and send the output signal back to other units and head unit eventually. Rarely, But if no red led present in the connector it means no signal is coming from the head unit due to either bad head unit or some fiber optic wire damage. If you remove head unit and you see a red light blinking, you should see the same blinking at the amp connector."

Did you check for power at the amp?
You should measure the voltage with a voltmeter.
What is the actual number.
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      10-02-2021, 08:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
This is right from the last entry

1)"No Yellow LED, but you can see blinknig red LED deep inside most likely means 3 things:
amp is bad
no power getting to the amp check last 2 thick wires red and brown 12V should be present always, otherwise check fuses in the trunk.
2)No fiber optic input getting into the amp from head unit, but in this case you should see a red LED on for 15-20secs, this means amp is waiting for a signal and if no signal present it will go to sleep mode. Easy to check, you should see a blinking red LED in the CAR CONNECTOR with the amp fiber optic connector disconnected. If its blinking it means head unit is sending signal to the amp and amp CPU has to accept it and send the output signal back to other units and head unit eventually. Rarely, But if no red led present in the connector it means no signal is coming from the head unit due to either bad head unit or some fiber optic wire damage. If you remove head unit and you see a red light blinking, you should see the same blinking at the amp connector."

Did you check for power at the amp?
You should measure the voltage with a voltmeter.
What is the actual number.
i checked the red wire with brown and they come out to exactly 12.5 V, so do i just have a bad amp then? the fiber optic cable is delivering signal from the head unit because when i unplug it from the amp is flashes red. it also has power however the amp has no yellow light and all i see is a non flashing red light inside the amp when i plug the fiber optic cable into it. there is also a 2 channel line output connector taped into the amps wiring harness. it appears to be after market and im assuming it’s possibly from the previous owner installing subs?

here are some pics, should i remove this connector aftermarket thingy or just let it stay? second pic showing aftermarket connector thing, first pic showing the only light that is currently shown inside of the amp.

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Last edited by Jlively; 10-02-2021 at 08:41 PM..
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      10-02-2021, 10:18 PM   #12
ctuna
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The second device looks like a level converter to run a sub amp.
Depending on how the guy hooked it up it might just tap of one
of the signals or it might totally interrupt it .
Unless your have another car to check the amp out on you are
stuck with replacing the amp or getting it repaired.
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      10-02-2021, 10:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
The second device looks like a level converter to run a sub amp.
Depending on how the guy hooked it up it might just tap of one
of the signals or it might totally interrupt it .
Unless your have another car to check the amp out on you are
stuck with replacing the amp or getting it repaired.
so i should basically just unplug that device see if it works, if not just replace tho whole amp since there is no yellow light but there is headunit signal and power?
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      10-03-2021, 12:06 AM   #14
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You can do that but the chances are it's not the problem.
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      10-03-2021, 10:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
You can do that but the chances are it's not the problem.
so i just need to buy a new logic 7 amp that comes from a 3series e90 other wise other amps for 6 series and such won’t work with the headunit? with the new amp is there anyway i will be able to take down the risk of that one getting flooded? or water getting into the area?
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      10-03-2021, 12:37 PM   #16
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They use that same sound system through out a range of cars .
The programming may be slightly adjusted for the car's interior.
There is a list of compatible part no's hardware wise.
Most people buy one of Ebay plop it in and it works.
If you can get one that you know came out of the same model
3 series in the same year that would be best.

Logic 7
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432
https://www.bavlogic.com/?p=3729
https://www.bavlogic.com/?tag=loop
http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837
http://www.bmwgm5.com/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt
https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666


http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
Most
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727663
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222
https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+...VCkMqy2aCK09M:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19256760
https://www.teacremotes.com/bmwgm5/
Diagnostic Manuals Inpa/Ista D
https://bimmerprofs.com/diagnostics-inpa-part-1/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7x8H3pN8h1fMuF
https://carmod.ru/files/icom/istad_en.pdf
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-P-actually-do
primary links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...1&d=1590283589
https://www.nathansbmwworkshop.com/b...or-dean-videos


https://www.bmwgm5.com/

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