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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Interior Leather Color Change - Black to Red
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01-29-2016, 06:20 AM | #1 |
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Interior Leather Color Change - Black to Red
So I've had my 2007 E92 323i MSport for about 6 months now and decided that the schwartz black interior is a bit too gloomy for my tastes (the exterior is Titanium silver). What's needed is some bright color so I've chosen to go with the red - a classic pairing with silver and as we all know, red makes the car go faster.
After much research I've decided that I will be using Leatherique dye (BMW Imola Red/Coral Red). Expensive but it seems a very safe bet if procedures are followed correctly. While the interior is out I will be doing a few other repairs/upgrades -: - the very dark tint (32%) will be changed to much lighter but better performing (UV/heat/glare) Formula One (42%) http://www.tintacar.com.au/media/117...ure-jun14-.pdf - the driver's side door pull which is peeling paint will be repainted - the seatbelt presenters will be disconnected (I find them slow, noisy, unreliable and annoying) - replace a few broken/scratched trim bits I thought about changing the speakers but decided that the existing ones were decent enough Last edited by scanspeak; 02-16-2016 at 12:21 AM.. |
01-29-2016, 09:10 AM | #4 |
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Um... By definition, "dye" is a transparent coloring agent. Which means that if always combines with the existing color, not overrides it. It is not possible to dye black into red. It is not possible to dye black into anything. If you want to use red dye and arrive at red color as end result, you have to start from white leather.
If your starting point is black, then the only way to override that is to use a pigment (as opposed to a dye), i.e. paint it red. But painting is a completely different process. And I don't believe if is doable, but I might be wrong. I mean, it should certainly be possible to re-paint black into red, but will it last? (Saw that E46 thread where they did seem to successfully repaint black into cinnamon using Leatherique stuff, if the pictures are real. 5 coats...) Last edited by AndreyT; 01-29-2016 at 10:04 AM.. |
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01-29-2016, 11:32 AM | #5 |
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Here's the leatherique website http://www.leatherique.com
This product is recommended by the Roll Royce Club of USA. I agree that the term "dye" may be a bit misleading. It looks to me like a dye/paint. Last edited by scanspeak; 02-08-2016 at 01:03 AM.. |
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01-29-2016, 12:05 PM | #7 | |
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But that web site... "Touch the PUFF into the bowel of dye..." Mother of God... |
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01-29-2016, 12:13 PM | #8 |
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Op- Have you pulled the trigger on this yet? Did you look into this stuff called Color Bond? Cant comment on Leatherique because I have never used it, but I have used the color bond (tan to red color change) and the stuff is great.
Either way the prep is the most important aspect of this type of project. I wish you luck and look forward to seeing the results. |
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01-29-2016, 04:14 PM | #9 |
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Subscribed. Very interested in how this turns out.
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01-30-2016, 03:13 AM | #10 |
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Products have arrived and as a trial run I started with a rear headrest.
First I oiled it with Rejuvenator Oil, put it in a garbage bag in the sun to open the pores and soak it in. After a day I then removed it and cleaned it thoroughly with Pristine Clean and a damp microfibre cloth. Keep rinsing the cloth in water. I think the oiling stage is quite important and why I recommend doing this project in warm/sunny weather (it's late Summer here in Australia). Waited 48 hours before proceeding to the next step for the oil to fully penetrate. Then followed sanding with 600 grit wet-and-dry and a grey Scotchbrite scourer with Prep Wash to break down the existing dye before commencing with the dyeing process. Wait > 6 hours before dyeing. Use a hair dryer to help dry creases and seams if needed. It took about 6 THIN coats (1 hour drying time), first brushing the seams with a fine artists brush, and then fill in the rest with a wide artists brush. As a final finish I used the wipe-on method with a microfibre cloth. According to the company it's important not to put on thick coats or it will start to look like plastic. Also the product has to be stirred very regularly as the pigment settles quickly, I'm very happy with the result. The look and feel is virtually the same as the original leather, even a little softer thanks to the Rejuvenator Oil. The sheen level is satin. Before considering it complete I will wait a few days for it to fully cure and then give it another Pristine Clean to get off any residual color. The color "Imola red" looks virtually identical to Coral Red. Last edited by scanspeak; 03-28-2018 at 08:31 PM.. |
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02-01-2016, 05:31 PM | #14 |
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I've ordered some matt clear-coat from www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Finish.php which I will test to see how it looks and feels.
It's supposed to add a great deal of wear resistance and the matt look may give a more OEM appearance (though I have no issues with the current satin finish). They also have an excellent guide to the recoloring process https://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Fu...ange_Guide.php Last edited by scanspeak; 02-01-2016 at 05:57 PM.. |
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02-01-2016, 11:12 PM | #15 |
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Hope the first time you get some swamp ass it doesn't come off on your pants. Looks great so far though!
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02-02-2016, 06:06 AM | #16 |
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Have now removed all of the rear trim and seats and the front door trims without too much fuss.
Getting the armrests apart was a bit difficult as the plastic welds holding the door pulls needed to be drilled out. The leather door inserts will be painted in situ as they are held in place by >50 plastic welds. Now preparing the armrests for painting. Last edited by scanspeak; 02-23-2016 at 05:10 PM.. |
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02-02-2016, 03:03 PM | #18 |
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Thanks Vish. Or maybe I'm just crazy lol
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02-03-2016, 07:50 AM | #20 | |
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02-04-2016, 12:54 AM | #22 |
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Refinished my peeling door grabs in matt black Plastikote.
* Edit : Later added a satin clear coat for extra scratch resistance. Last edited by scanspeak; 02-23-2016 at 05:11 PM.. |
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