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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Used/Salvage N54 Motor Swaps - yay or nay



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      11-09-2018, 01:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by nissubaru View Post
I'm not sure how I could manage an oil test on a used engine that I'm getting from a salvage yard. I assume that they would have drained the oil when they pulled it? Or are you suggesting I try to find a car that was literally just totaled and get an oil analysis done while the motor is still in the car?
I'm suggesting that you nee to try to cover the bases as better as you possibly can and that making a decision based on mileage only is honestly silly.
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      11-09-2018, 01:41 PM   #24
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I'm suggesting that you nee to try to cover the bases as better as you possibly can and that making a decision based on mileage only is honestly silly.
Lol well if they provided more information about the engines then I would. Right now the information I have about both engines in mind is that they were both tested and running in the car and they did compression tests but they don't keep the numbers. They just test the motors, make sure they're worth keeping/installing in someone elses car and then that's pretty much it.

The second thing I know about the two motors are the mileages on each. One comes with no turbos (the one with lower miles) and the other one comes with turbos. They are the same price after shipping, the first place seems really anxious to sell it to me since they asked what I was looking to pay and when I said ~$200 less (the price was honestly fine but hey...he asked) to which he said they'd cover the shipping since that's about the same price.

Last bit of info I have are pictures of the car the higher mileage motor came out of. Side impact damage.

What would you suggest I do in order to make sure I get the best motor? It seems the shops I've asked to source me a motor when I was contemplating having them do the install all had places they trusted to source their engines from. Would you insist they perform a leakdown test even if they said they ran the engine and did a compression test?
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      11-09-2018, 02:39 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by nissubaru View Post
Lol well if they provided more information about the engines then I would. Right now the information I have about both engines in mind is that they were both tested and running in the car and they did compression tests but they don't keep the numbers. They just test the motors, make sure they're worth keeping/installing in someone elses car and then that's pretty much it.

The second thing I know about the two motors are the mileages on each. One comes with no turbos (the one with lower miles) and the other one comes with turbos. They are the same price after shipping, the first place seems really anxious to sell it to me since they asked what I was looking to pay and when I said ~$200 less (the price was honestly fine but hey...he asked) to which he said they'd cover the shipping since that's about the same price.

Last bit of info I have are pictures of the car the higher mileage motor came out of. Side impact damage.

What would you suggest I do in order to make sure I get the best motor? It seems the shops I've asked to source me a motor when I was contemplating having them do the install all had places they trusted to source their engines from. Would you insist they perform a leakdown test even if they said they ran the engine and did a compression test?
Why would someone go through the trouble of performing a leak down test and don't document the result? It runs? What that means? Worn cam ledges and runs. Worn crank bearings and runs. Mixing oil and coolant and runs. If you can have them document the compression test and also try to get an oil sample. Also people sometimes damage these cars in purpose, I'm talking about the body, so insurance will pay it off because engine is bad. Take you time and look for the right engine.
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      11-09-2018, 03:17 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Why would someone go through the trouble of performing a leak down test and don't document the result? It runs? What that means? Worn cam ledges and runs. Worn crank bearings and runs. Mixing oil and coolant and runs. If you can have them document the compression test and also try to get an oil sample. Also people sometimes damage these cars in purpose, I'm talking about the body, so insurance will pay it off because engine is bad. Take you time and look for the right engine.
Idk, I figure these guys aren't exactly rocket scientists or extremely cautious like we are. They check the engine and if it's good they keep it, if it's bad they toss it.

There's one engine for $3500 with 55k miles and they list the compression test numbers 195 185 160 175 160 180, but they're all over the place. I don't think I'd touch this motor, pics also show DCI's.
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      11-12-2018, 10:25 AM   #27
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Still trying to find a good motor, it's honestly a total crapshoot. Unless you guys have somewhere you suggest looking I'm all out of options. Basically I've been using LKQ, car-part.com and Ebay. None of the places seem to give a shit about doing compression tests or leakdown tests. They run the car before dismantling it and that's pretty much it. Obviously I'd like to be 100% certain but what can I do? I'm thinking buy a motor and perform a leakdown myself as soon as it arrives. If it doesn't check out, return the damn thing. Although I'll be annoyed if I have to pay for the shipping both ways.

Anyways, what all do I need to buy if I'm going to have the transmission off? New transmission bolts all around, some bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate..but what about a clutch pilot bearing or clutch alignment tool? I have a Spec Stage 2 clutch with steel flywheel already installed

Also plan to order new oil pan gasket + bolts all around. Maybe valve cover gasket, we'll see. OFHG too just cause it's cheap and easy. Will be swapping over old injectors. If I do end up swapping over the turbos I'll get the install kit from Vargas.

Fluids too of course. Idk I'm either blanking out hard or there aren't too many things I need to buy besides the motor. Already picked up a 1 ton engine crane from Harbor Freight and a 750lb stand.

While I'm at it...anyone have tips for dropping the manual transmission they'd like to share? What combination of extensions did you have to use to get to the bolts. I have a couple 10" extensions, a 6" one, a few 3" extensions etc...probably gonna need more? Wobble joint? Any universal joints?

Would a ratcheting e-torx wrench help at all or will I be able to set a socket on everything? What about flex head or swivel/flex head ratchets? I've got all the standard tools and then some but if there's something that would make this all go a hell of a lot easier then I'd love to know.
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      11-12-2018, 08:38 PM   #28
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To drop the transmission you need to lift the front of the engine, separate the two, then tilt (rotate) the transmission towards left, and is out. I have not used special alignment clutch tools for on this Bmw (but I have on other makes/models). From tools you only need wobble extension and etorx sockets. I use alignment tool to slide the transmission off/on. Similar to those used for wheels. Like a stud. But mine is homemade.
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      11-13-2018, 08:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
To drop the transmission you need to lift the front of the engine, separate the two, then tilt (rotate) the transmission towards left, and is out. I have not used special alignment clutch tools for on this Bmw (but I have on other makes/models). From tools you only need wobble extension and etorx sockets. I use alignment tool to slide the transmission off/on. Similar to those used for wheels. Like a stud. But mine is homemade.
Do you access the top transmission bolts using a ratchet with a flex head or do you lower the transmission a bit first and use extensions to get up there? They say to use a ratchet with a flex head in this video and to go in from the top.

https://youtu.be/gaK7xdeob1k

They also mention rotating the transmission towards the left, but thank you for pointing it out again. I kinda put that bit of info in the back of my mind but I'll remember it now since it seems pretty important.

As for the homemade transmission alignment tool, I think I have an idea what you mean. Do you have a picture by chance? What I'm imagining is a decently long bolt with the head chopped off. Which bolt hole do you place it in? I'm thinking bottom left, get the trans to hang on it and then rotate everything back in place & bolt it back up? This is a good tip to be honest, I was a little concerned about maneuvering it back into place but this seems pretty foolproof.
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      11-13-2018, 12:19 PM   #30
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When you lift the front of the engine up you can access all the bolts with ease with just regular tools with long extensions. I use extensions with wobble tip that allows the socket to be angled but it could be done with regular extension too. I don't have a photo from the bolt, but yes, head cut off.
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      11-13-2018, 02:48 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by feuer View Post
When you lift the front of the engine up you can access all the bolts with ease with just regular tools with long extensions. I use extensions with wobble tip that allows the socket to be angled but it could be done with regular extension too. I don't have a photo from the bolt, but yes, head cut off.
Thanks for the info. I'm pretty confident this will all go fairly well despite being a pretty intensive job. I couldn't comfortably sit back and shell out $2500-3000 for someone else to do the work on my car when they aren't even going to warranty the labor if the engine they sourced is junk. Plus I have basically every tool already minus the engine stand and crane which I bought both this weekend from Harbor Freight for under $200 using a 20% off coupon.


The only problem I'm having now is sourcing a good motor. Besides LKQ Online, Car-part.com and eBay I'm pretty much out of places to look. I'd love to buy the replacement motor asap but I also don't want to rush myself and get a shitty motor.
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      11-13-2018, 04:52 PM   #32
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Check Craigslist for private part outs. Why don't you just replace the bearings?
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      11-13-2018, 10:32 PM   #33
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Check Craigslist for private part outs. Why don't you just replace the bearings?
I haven't heard very many good things about just doing the rod bearings. Seems like the way to go is a used motor
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      11-14-2018, 12:26 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
To drop the transmission you need to lift the front of the engine, separate the two, then tilt (rotate) the transmission towards left, and is out. I have not used special alignment clutch tools for on this Bmw (but I have on other makes/models). From tools you only need wobble extension and etorx sockets. I use alignment tool to slide the transmission off/on. Similar to those used for wheels. Like a stud. But mine is homemade.
I didn’t have to lift the the from of the engine when I did my clutch job to drop the transmission. Once you take of the trans mount I was able to get to all the transmission bolts including the top bolts with long wobble extensions.
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      11-14-2018, 07:15 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Riceball777 View Post
I didn’t have to lift the the from of the engine when I did my clutch job to drop the transmission. Once you take of the trans mount I was able to get to all the transmission bolts including the top bolts with long wobble extensions.
the engine naturally falls forward when you remove the transmission mounts. This is why you wedge a piece of wood between the pan and the power steering rack. If you dont, the engine tilts forward and the top bolts get blocked by the firewall.

However, I find it much easier to just allow the engine to tilt forward. In fact, I remove the transmission mounts and then jack up the transmission end to tilt the motor as far forward as possible. This gives you tons more room to get the top bolts from up top! Way easier that trying to land 3ft of wobble extensions on a bolt BLIND if you're doing the job yourself.
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      11-14-2018, 07:29 AM   #36
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That would work too but you need remove bunch of parts under the hood in order to access the bolts from the top. I'm never looking for more work than I need to already do. Most mechanics approach is the same. That is why I just lift the engine up on the front and I do everything from the bottom. To longest extension and have is 12 or maybe 15 inch. I use two so that is like 2 feet or so. I have heard of a lot of success stories when replacing just the crank bearings. Most BMW engine suffer from this failure. Pretty much every M engine goes through this. If the crack isn't demaged and probably it isn't if the engine haven't seized just try the bearings first.
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      11-14-2018, 10:26 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissubaru View Post
Still trying to find a good motor, it's honestly a total crapshoot. Unless you guys have somewhere you suggest looking I'm all out of options. Basically I've been using LKQ, car-part.com and Ebay. None of the places seem to give a shit about doing compression tests or leakdown tests. They run the car before dismantling it and that's pretty much it. Obviously I'd like to be 100% certain but what can I do? I'm thinking buy a motor and perform a leakdown myself as soon as it arrives. If it doesn't check out, return the damn thing. Although I'll be annoyed if I have to pay for the shipping both ways.

Anyways, what all do I need to buy if I'm going to have the transmission off? New transmission bolts all around, some bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate..but what about a clutch pilot bearing or clutch alignment tool? I have a Spec Stage 2 clutch with steel flywheel already installed

Also plan to order new oil pan gasket + bolts all around. Maybe valve cover gasket, we'll see. OFHG too just cause it's cheap and easy. Will be swapping over old injectors. If I do end up swapping over the turbos I'll get the install kit from Vargas.

Fluids too of course. Idk I'm either blanking out hard or there aren't too many things I need to buy besides the motor. Already picked up a 1 ton engine crane from Harbor Freight and a 750lb stand.

While I'm at it...anyone have tips for dropping the manual transmission they'd like to share? What combination of extensions did you have to use to get to the bolts. I have a couple 10" extensions, a 6" one, a few 3" extensions etc...probably gonna need more? Wobble joint? Any universal joints?

Would a ratcheting e-torx wrench help at all or will I be able to set a socket on everything? What about flex head or swivel/flex head ratchets? I've got all the standard tools and then some but if there's something that would make this all go a hell of a lot easier then I'd love to know.
I had a shop replace my motor about 5 years ago. Here's a parts list of all the miscellaneous parts that they gave me when they did it. I don't remember much info on what was needed and why, but may be useful for you to look over:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

I also did new turbos, clutch, oil pan gasket and one of the gaskets for coolant on the engine block (forget exactly what that one was).
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      11-14-2018, 10:34 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
That would work too but you need remove bunch of parts under the hood in order to access the bolts from the top. I'm never looking for more work than I need to already do. Most mechanics approach is the same. That is why I just lift the engine up on the front and I do everything from the bottom. To longest extension and have is 12 or maybe 15 inch. I use two so that is like 2 feet or so. I have heard of a lot of success stories when replacing just the crank bearings. Most BMW engine suffer from this failure. Pretty much every M engine goes through this. If the crack isn't demaged and probably it isn't if the engine haven't seized just try the bearings first.
I did a little more research but still, all signs point to swapping in a used motor and calling it a day. I'm not seeing very many threads where people just replaced the bearings successfully.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MiniXP View Post
I had a shop replace my motor about 5 years ago. Here's a parts list of all the miscellaneous parts that they gave me when they did it. I don't remember much info on what was needed and why, but may be useful for you to look over:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

I also did new turbos, clutch, oil pan gasket and one of the gaskets for coolant on the engine block (forget exactly what that one was).
Nice list! Thank you. I'll go through this and see what I might not be thinking about.
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      11-14-2018, 11:15 AM   #39
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Just for verification, the only difference between an AWD N54 and the RWD N54 is the oil pan? I can just put mine on an xdrive engine and it will be good to go? I'm trying to open up my search as much as possible, car-part.com separates RWD and AWD motors in the listings.

What about a 135i or a 535i? Just use my oil pan?

Edit: Kind of have a lead on two yards with decent options around my way. Both off a 5 series. The one place sounds pretty legit, although no compression test or leakdown numbers because the guy pulls the oil pan and inspects the bearings. He said compression test and leakdown tests only tell you so much, knowing the condition of the bearings is most important. However, the problem with this is that he doesn't think they have a 6 bolt engine, only 8 bolt. The guy was great to talk with but as the clock started to get closer to 5pm he started getting short with me so now I'm "85% sure" he doesn't have a 6 bolt engine. He said he would include the proper flywheel, although my problem with this is I have an upgraded steel flywheel. Personally, I didn't pay for it as the previous owner installed it...but I'd hate to go back to a used OEM flywheel when mine is already upgraded and somewhat new.

The other place I spoke with has a 6 bolt with like 45k miles, includes turbos, they supposedly run the car for 45 minutes, but no leakdown/compression numbers. I did ask them if they could do the tests and they said yes, I should have the results on Friday. These guys are only about an hour away. I'd love to go with the guy who checks the bearings but if everything checks out on the 6 bolt motor I'll probably pick it up & do my own bearing check after picking the motor up.

Seeing as how these are from a 5 series, I'm assuming the wiring harness will need to be swapped over from my engine?

Last edited by nissubaru; 11-14-2018 at 04:23 PM..
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      11-16-2018, 12:29 PM   #40
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I'd have no qualms about swapping in a used engine. N54's are very good motors, but everything around them fails. If you make sure you're putting in a known good set of turbos, do all the gaskets, injectors, etc. at the time of the swap I would highly expect you to have a great running car when you're done. Yes 8k is a lot of money to put into a car that's worth so little in comparison but that's why these cars are cheap. They're very pricy to fix so you pay less up front for a very nice car for the money. 87k miles is nothing; it's a sunk cost either way though. Personally, I'd rather have an 87k mile car that I had a good history of even if i had a lot of money invested into rather than sell it for pennies on the dollar with a blown engine and buy another one. Just me. Good luck!
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      12-10-2018, 03:58 PM   #41
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Just an update if anyone cares. It took me a few weeks to find what I would consider a good enough motor for me to install in my car, it's from LKQ and comes with a 6 month parts warranty. 86k miles on the motor so very similar to mine, out of a 5 series that was hit in the side rear. Should be delivered next Monday 12/17.

I did end up deciding to do the job myself. I've bought too many tools and done too much work on my cars to pussy out now. If I was rebuilding the motor I'd probably be in over my head but swapping out the motor is just a bunch of nuts and bolts.

I'm doing the swap over at my parents house where they have a 2.5 car garage with plenty of space. So far I put in ~4 hours (I'm slow as hell & I take lots of breaks) and have the car pretty well torn apart. All the fluids are drained, coolant hoses are disconnected, radiator is out, intercooler is out, exhaust is dropped, heatshield off, drive belt off, intake manifold + charge pipe are off.

I called it quits at this point because I didn't have the motor yet. I also forgot to relieve the fuel pressure before disassembling everything so rather than trying to disconnect the HPFP I figured I'll come back to it after a week and hope the pressure has subsided.

I decided to pull the front bumper even though I was trying to keep it on. I'll be leaving the manual transmission in place so I might as well pull the bumper to make it easier on myself. This part should be pretty quick but basically I'll pull the front clip + AC condenser next time, then do the HPFP and starter, wiring harness, followed by the transmission bellhousing bolts, and then I think the only thing left is the ground cable + motor mount bolts. Then it should be ready to pull out.

I know I probably haven't gotten to the "hard" part yet but so far it seems pretty easy. I think I'll be able to pull it off in ~20 hours which would be pretty awesome. By that I mean have the old engine out, accessories swapped over, and the new motor in with various gaskets replaced (VCG, OPG, OFHG) as well.
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      12-11-2018, 09:51 AM   #42
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I'm in the same boat, I'm swapping out my n52 for a n54. I bought a low milage wreck with 60k on it. Honesty, since it's out, I've done everything new, but lift the head off!. Guys praise how there single turboing a 120k engine they just put in,lol. Truth is, off you know what these engines are famous for, you do it a head of time. I'm even doing rod bearings, new stage ones built by me, full gaskets, wp,new pullies, belt, walnut blast, and some fresh touch up. Once it's in, I don't want to fuck with it, other than driving it. Methanol and nitrous will follow.!
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      12-11-2018, 10:33 AM   #43
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I'm in the same boat, I'm swapping out my n52 for a n54. I bought a low milage wreck with 60k on it. Honesty, since it's out, I've done everything new, but lift the head off!. Guys praise how there single turboing a 120k engine they just put in,lol. Truth is, off you know what these engines are famous for, you do it a head of time. I'm even doing rod bearings, new stage ones built by me, full gaskets, wp,new pullies, belt, walnut blast, and some fresh touch up. Once it's in, I don't want to fuck with it, other than driving it. Methanol and nitrous will follow.!

You're doing the rod bearings? I kinda want to do the rod bearings on the motor I have coming in but I'm not really sure where to source the bearings from and if I need to worry about checking the clearances etc...Using Plastigauge doesn't look too bad but it also seems like unnecessary work. I would assume stock size bearings can just be swapped right in?

I've never messed with the internals of a motor so I'm not the most knowledgeable in this area. Part of me is thinking just to leave it alone but another part of me wants to check the bearings at the very least before swapping the motor in.

I'll probably do a walnut blast as well.

Edit: Found this post mentioning rod bearing selection...."If you are saving this motor and just doing rod bearings, make sure you read the TIS info from BMW on rod bearing selection. I had to order all 4 types and return the two unused types of rod bearings. The laser etching that tells you what bearings you use is on the front of the first crankshaft counterweight."

Also, my engine supposedly compression tested at 170 across all six cylinders.
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      12-11-2018, 10:47 AM   #44
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Not to bump my own thread but in case someone comes across this in the future and is curious about choosing the correct bearings...see this link.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/B...4-N55-S55.html

Here's the important part:

"Engine manufacturers, including BMW, color-code their bearing parts to match crankshaft and connecting rod sizes. This pair of bearings include 1 upper Violet and 1 lower Blue bearing. This combination is known as the "B Classification". BMW also used a R Classification for Yellow/Red bearings. You must check the front face of the first crankshaft counterweight to determine which bearings are in your engine. Each engine can have different mixtures of R or B bearings. New bearings must match the originals being removed!

Bearings are also sold by size. These are the standard 56.0mm inside diameter size.

Note: connecting rod bolts cannot be re-used. They are stretch-to-yield and must be replaced."



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