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      11-18-2020, 05:23 PM   #1
TboneS54
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Help! No sound or chimes! Everything looks fine

Hi, hoping for some assistance with the top hifi audio system (Not logic 7, no fiber optic, but also not base- I have professional rad2, amp, tweeters - top hifi.

So I have no sound, not even a hiss, and no chimes (since they're created by the speakers). But my headunit works fine. I accessed the secret menu and could see the volume is up. I used the Schwaben tool to access the radio unit and play around, but sound didn't ever come back.

Remedies I've read about, but haven't worked:
Leave battery undone a while
Try another amp
Check all fuses
Leave the key in so it registers the amp after a cycle

With the help of an electrical engineer, we were able to confirm that the amp is receiving power and that sound waves are travelling to the amp via an oscope. Drivers can play, no issues with speakers. Battery is good, above 12v, 14v when runing.

I've already tried replacing just the amp, to no avail, even with trying to reset things hoping it would "see" the new amp.

I have no idea what else to do. Only thing I saw mentioned that maybe could help is an SIB # 65 01 11 some sort of update. Car is a 2012 (11/11/), so i think it would have had it already?

If nothing else, I'll have to break down and take it to an indy or dealer.

Can a good indy handle this type of issue or BMW dealership only as the tools/software is proprietary?

THANKS!
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      11-18-2020, 09:49 PM   #2
ctuna
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You might try measuring the signals coming out of the Radio.
Or putting a small speaker across one of the Input lines to the Amp.
Did you try re seating the connector to the back of the Radio.

Was this car previously working ?
Is this car new to you?
What year of car?
What country are you in?
Is the head unit pro radio or idrive?

top hi fi is logic 7

The three sound system's are
stereo no amp no tweeters.
Hi Fi option 676 6 main speaker 4 or 2 tweeters 6 channel amp before and up to 09
also called premium sound.
Top Hi Fi or Logic 7(same thing) option 677 or 688 depending on year 13 or 11 speakers (tweeter count as
speakers) 9 channel amp with fiber optic Input.




BMW stereo types
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352586
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138949
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780865
http://bmwcoders.com/forum/3-er-8/bm...1-e92-e93-291/
http://technicpnp.com/menuDiagrams/d...e90_92_93.html
http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1169133185
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...4&d=1278871872
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343673
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/e...n-752.1275694/

Last edited by ctuna; 11-18-2020 at 10:02 PM..
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      11-19-2020, 11:21 AM   #3
TboneS54
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Ah ok, then I have hifi, as it's not L7.
U.S.
Car worked perfectly before
2012
professional hu
Yes, checked fuse on back of HU and re seated the harness.
We saw sound waves travelling to the amp

Thanks!
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      11-19-2020, 12:37 PM   #4
ctuna
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It's a simple analog amp for the Hi Fi system if it has power
and Input signals there should be output. If the amp is good.

Just to be sure you have no Music as well as no chimes?
Bluetooth and phone modules can take control of the stereo
to do there thing. It's possible if they go bad they may lock out
the other stuff.

Last edited by ctuna; 11-19-2020 at 12:44 PM..
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      11-19-2020, 04:55 PM   #5
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No phone, but blu tooth. The plastic connector for blutooth did break, though it seems to latch onto the back of the head unit fine. I see no errors on schwaben tool. The usb plastic connector (behind HU) broke a bit too, but USB still connects and plays just fine.

Yes, even tried another working amp, but nothing. Thank you
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Last edited by TboneS54; 11-19-2020 at 05:04 PM..
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      11-19-2020, 05:01 PM   #6
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The connectors apart from the main connector are antenn'a only I believe.

You might try to inject a musical signal into the amp.
You could also measure the ohm's to the speakers.
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      11-19-2020, 06:54 PM   #7
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Ok thank you, only used to seeing 1 pink one, not 3 like this unit has.

"inject music signal into amp" - can you elaborate?

With a heat gun, we saw that the amp wasn't getting warm even after a while of "playing" music (we saw sound travelling to amp).

If I hadn't tried a second amp, I'd still feel it was the amp, but since both amps didn't work, 'm feeling like it's a communication issue/software issue.

I just feel that if something physically went wrong, I would have found it by now: flooded amp area, blown fuse, ripped/torn wires, HU that won't operate, etc..

Thanks so much for your help so far.
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      11-19-2020, 08:20 PM   #8
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T tap into one of the Inputs use one side of the head unit output from
an old phone or cd player make sure the amp is powered.
Measure the ohms reading's to the speaker's to see that there connected.
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      11-20-2020, 11:23 AM   #9
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Ok I see. I did try a known, working amp and that didn't solve the issue, so I'm thinking that the issue is not the amp perse, but the amp(s) not being powered or grounded as we did see sound coming to the amp from the headunit. Plus the headunit works perfectly.
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      11-30-2020, 11:20 PM   #10
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I am having the same issue. I do have chimes though when seatbelt isn't connected. Other than that I have no sound from my aftermarket headhunt. I took it to an Indy shop and they confirmed the HU is working. I replaced the amp but that didn't work. I replaced the speakers by plugging in my friends speakers from his e92. Still no sound.

I have no idea what may have caused this. I've been without music for 3 months now. I might take it to a BMW shop before the dealer.
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      12-12-2020, 05:27 PM   #11
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I too am looking to solve this issue.. I have aftermarket sub installed, and i think this is what blew the system in the first place. Everything worked fine for months, but randomly tripped a fuse of something. Worst of all, it activated my EVL lock, so had to remove the entire steering column to get the car to start again. Once got that fixed, now finding that my amp isnt getting power. Head unit works fine, but my after market amp, which uses the factory amp power wire as its REM isnt turning on, meaning the factory amp isnt getting power. Checked all fuses but nothing there... the hunt continues. If anyone knows how to solve this please help!
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      12-14-2020, 03:48 PM   #12
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Ya these cars are ridiculous. I've never had problems with older BMWs. Hope you guys figure something out. I'll update too.
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      12-14-2020, 04:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daousti View Post
I too am looking to solve this issue.. I have aftermarket sub installed, and i think this is what blew the system in the first place. Everything worked fine for months, but randomly tripped a fuse of something. Worst of all, it activated my EVL lock, so had to remove the entire steering column to get the car to start again. Once got that fixed, now finding that my amp isnt getting power. Head unit works fine, but my after market amp, which uses the factory amp power wire as its REM isnt turning on, meaning the factory amp isnt getting power. Checked all fuses but nothing there... the hunt continues. If anyone knows how to solve this please help!
amp fuse after 2007 is F34
rad_on (remote) signal comes from headunit
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      12-14-2020, 06:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
amp fuse after 2007 is F34
rad_on (remote) signal comes from headunit
Can you be more specific? Maybe just on L7 cars? I have a 2012 (hifi) and there is no fuse in #34. There isn't even any metal to receive a fuse and complete the circuit.

Something's not communicating to my amp, I feel. Already tried another working amp.
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      12-14-2020, 08:59 PM   #15
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Fuse Chart should be on the back of the glove box wall.
Which is removed with 2 quarter turn plastic fasteners.
Should be there or you will need a Bentley manual that covers
whatever model of 2012 you have . The manual changes after
2010 to the following years.

https://fuse-box.info/bmw/bmw-1-seri...uses-and-relay

Last edited by ctuna; 12-14-2020 at 10:00 PM..
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      12-15-2020, 07:43 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TboneS54 View Post
Can you be more specific? Maybe just on L7 cars? I have a 2012 (hifi) and there is no fuse in #34. There isn't even any metal to receive a fuse and complete the circuit.

Something's not communicating to my amp, I feel. Already tried another working amp.
ok, then , according ctuna link AMP is on F8
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      12-15-2020, 04:25 PM   #17
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What I've read is 8, 14, 15. I just checked them all, didn't make a difference- none were blown.
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      12-18-2020, 02:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TboneS54 View Post
What I've read is 8, 14, 15. I just checked them all, didn't make a difference- none were blown.
so, did you checked that correct rad_on signal comes to amp from radio ?
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      12-18-2020, 03:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
so, did you checked that correct rad_on signal comes to amp from radio ?
With an Oscope, we saw sound waves travelling through the wires into the amp. But with a heat gun, it didn't look like the amp was amplifying (not warming up). Power/ground were good. Battery is good. So then I tried another, known-to-be-working amp, but that didn't make a difference. I even disconnected the battery and left the key in in order for the system to "see" the new amp, but still didn't do anything.

Is that what you meant or is there another way to check?
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      12-18-2020, 05:05 PM   #20
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Have you ohmed out the speaker connections.


Try to put the scope on the outputs to the speakers.
Open the amp to expose the Internal connections and
measure there (seem kind of far to go but it might tell
you something.)
From my install procedure for E91 VP kit. for Hi Fi system.
I use my meter to record initial values of speakers and verify that those values
appear in the right places . If anything goes wrong I have a chance of finding it.
Stock door speakers measured 3 ohms at the amp tightening screws
Stock under seats measure 2.1 ohms at the amp tightening screws.
You would use the amp connector.

Color coding for wiring is in .

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138949

Last edited by ctuna; 12-18-2020 at 05:17 PM..
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      12-19-2020, 04:33 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TboneS54 View Post
With an Oscope, we saw sound waves travelling through the wires into the amp. But with a heat gun, it didn't look like the amp was amplifying (not warming up). Power/ground were good. Battery is good. So then I tried another, known-to-be-working amp, but that didn't make a difference. I even disconnected the battery and left the key in in order for the system to "see" the new amp, but still didn't do anything.

Is that what you meant or is there another way to check?
sorry, i would like to say that if the rad_on signal , going via separate wire from headunit do not reach amp it will no produce sound, even with good amp.
so you need to check this signal from headunit and how it's coming to amp
another thing that any part from junkyard can be not working, even if you think that this is not true
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      12-19-2020, 01:22 PM   #22
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According to the wiring diagram there is no turn on signal .
It just powers on through the 12 volt line becoming active.
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