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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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SWS 8 upgrade with MTX amp!
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05-04-2008, 09:33 PM | #89 | |
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i just want to know because i havent got an amp yet, and i want to put it in untill i purchase an amp. thanks!
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05-04-2008, 09:56 PM | #90 |
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Probably not, since the OEM amp does not have enough power to drive them
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05-05-2008, 02:34 AM | #91 | |
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I don't know if a shallow 10" will fit under the seats with a custom box, although an audio shop fitted a Morel 9" driver in a custom box there: http://www.sound-in-motion.com/installs/bmw_330xi.html However, they used those 9" drivers as mid bass and not subs (they have a 10" in the trunk for that). As for using the existing OEM ports in a project like this, I would say no, as we don't know the actual characteristics of that port and we would be using a 10" in a custom box and not the OEM enclosure with an 8". So to get better control of the response of that 10" you would be using either a sealed or a ported box based on what you want out of those 10s", and in the case of ported, how and where you want to put that port in the custom box under the seat for maximum effect. I have not have the chance yet of getting a SWS-10 and compare it with the Pioneer 10". I still think that the best sound set up is having the SWS-8 under the seats using the OEM enclosures and a 10" sub in the trunk, for a nice blend of mid/sub bass. However, if you can get 2 10"s under the seats in a custom enclosure that could be something else, although it will be necessary to set the 10"s as mid/sub bass as the 4" mid drivers are too small to go that low for an impact (the reason of that professional setup with 9" drivers and a separate sub), IMO. The problem with car audio is that sometimes you will need a lot of money to set your system up with several different components -trial and error- the way you would like it... |
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05-05-2008, 02:43 AM | #92 | |
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There's no problem on going in stages; IMO, actually is better as you are learning more this way because you will be comparing in sections -drivers and power output- and making your own assessments on what it is specifically better for your set up. This is better than replacing two components at the same time and then not knowing which one made the most difference, if any. |
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05-05-2008, 09:23 AM | #93 | ||
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Checking the dimensions of that Morel 9" and the photo of that nice box for it fitting into the OEM enclosure spot, I would say that -if done right- you could fit a pair of SWS-10 under the front seats with a custom sealed box of .6 cu.ft./ported volume is .8 cu.ft. Those Morels in the photo are supposed to be in a box of around 1.14 cu.ft. (recommended), so there is plenty of space there. http://www.morelhifi.com/products/mo...mosw.html#SPEC The SWS-10 are slightly shallower than the Morels (by just .12") but its cutout is wider by 1.2", so the fit looks good in paper. Quote:
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05-05-2008, 09:34 AM | #94 |
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Technics,
the Morel 5" woofer have 60mm of mounting depth, if I am not wrong, most poster here say maximum mounting depth of around 52mm to 55mm... Have not measure it my self though... but at 60mm plus some adaptor to fit the flange mounting hole, this 5in might not fit... unless we mounted infront of the door panel and add some spacer, and not behind the original grill... by the way, if you do the under the seat sub custom enclosure for SWS-10, would you prefer to make it : a. sealed or b. ported or c. ported in the same direction as the original box? Thanks |
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05-05-2008, 10:19 AM | #95 | |
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You are correct... the max depth should be 55mm. As for the SWS-10, I would go with sealed, as the enclosure should be as smaller as possible.
FYI: you should start you own thread. Quote:
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05-05-2008, 11:43 AM | #97 | |
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Thanks for your answer I realized after checking the specs for the 10W6 that I don’t have enough power to drive it properly, Since I’m trying not to start spending again, I looked at what I have lying around and my choices are Subs: Focal 27H 11” sub JL 10W3 V2 SWS-8 Amp Xtant 2200i (400W Rms) Total Audio T-500 (500WRmsfor the SWS) or 350W for the others Checking the specs of all 3 models of subs I see that the frequency response and Fs are pretty similar on all 3 , I understand that the larger displacement of a 10 or 11 inches speaker would generate lower frequencies , but for me 30hz is low enough, I had the 10W3 in my trunk in my E46 and it was ok, I later replaced that with a pair of 27H on the rear shelf in IB and that was much better and satisfying What I was wondering now is since the SWS-8s are in the cabin under the seat and also since their Fs is so similar to the Focals should I expect similar result especially with the amount of power I can supply them with (500W) To the OP, Did you have Logic7 or standard HiFi? And on a scale of 1-10 how much improvement do you feel the upgrade has given you? |
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05-18-2008, 05:30 PM | #99 | |
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thanks! |
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05-25-2008, 10:49 AM | #100 |
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is the fuse needed when wiring the amp? i bought the amp wiring kit and there is a 80 amp fuse but dont know how it works, can you guys tell me how it works. i'll be replacing the sub with sws-8 and adding an alpine mrd m500 amp that comes with two 30 amp fuses. thank you
Last edited by ontopofm; 05-25-2008 at 11:43 AM.. |
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05-25-2008, 11:03 AM | #101 |
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Yes... a fuse is required between the battery and that Alpine amp.
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05-25-2008, 12:08 PM | #103 |
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Check the fuse on the amp itself, and use one the same size or slightly larger. Fuse at the amp protects the amp, fuse at the battery protects the wire and the car. Muy importante.
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05-25-2008, 12:48 PM | #106 |
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Againn, I disagree. You should NEVER fuse at the battery UNDER what the amp has. The amp is fused to handle its load - if you underfuse at the battery, the battery fuse could blow for no good reason.
The fuse at the battery is there in case there is a very high current draw - such as from a pinched wire shorting to metal chassis ground. If the battery (+) voltage tries to take the trip to ground all at once, that's a short circuit, and the wire will get really hot and melt and catch the car on fire. The fuse popping prevents this. So if your amp has 60A of fusing on it, an 80A fuse at the battery is perfectly suitable (as long as your wire is large enough gauge). |
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05-25-2008, 01:26 PM | #107 | |
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05-25-2008, 01:42 PM | #108 | |
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The simple thing to remember is that if two fuses of different values are in series, the lowest-value fuse always blows first. The fuse on the amp protects the amp. The fuse at the battery protects the wire (and the amp, IF the amp has no internal fuse). If you had 2 amps fused at 60A each, and one wire with a distribution block supplying power to these two amplifiers, and a 120A fuse at the battery for that one power wire, how would that battery fuse be protecting either amp? It wouldn't. The amp's protection comes from the internal fuse, and if it doesn't have one, then you would need a fused distribution block with individual fuses for each amplifier. If you have an amp that pulls more current with a 2 ohm load than at a 4 ohm load, the internal fuse from the factory will be appropriate for the worst-case ohm rating (a higher rating). But if the amp is wired to the easier 4 ohm load, then the number of amperes the amp pulls should remain lower than its "worst-case" internal fusing rating, and in that case you can usually get away with a fuse smaller than the amp's internal fuse. But if you don't know how to do the math involved, it's definitely safest to use the same, NOT a lower value - and the risk of using a larger value at the battery is essentially zero. Or have your fuse blow every time the bass hits. |
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05-25-2008, 05:43 PM | #109 |
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i've got the answer from http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DbSphBB...t=1&page=all#2 and many other sources but was concerned that an 80A fuse would draw too much power from the battery and therefore damage the alternator in a long run, so do you guys think it is more ideal to run a 65A-70A fuse or 80A fuse is perfectly fine??
Q: How big should the fuse be? A: If you're installing just one amplifier, the fuse at the battery should simply match or slightly exceed the fuse rating of the amplifier itself. If you're installing two or more amplifiers, just add their fuse ratings together and install a fuse rated roughly equal to this sum. Generally, it's better to go slightly higher than lower, but a margin of five amperes is acceptable. Say you have three amplifiers, two with fuse ratings of 20 amps each and one with a fuse rating of 25 amps. In this case, you can safely go with either a 60 or 70 amp fuse. (Of course, if your system is powerful enough to demand that you install a heavy duty fuse, it's important that your power and ground wire be of an appropriately heavy gauge as well.) |
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05-25-2008, 05:48 PM | #110 | |
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So you could put a 200A fuse in there, and the system wouldn't pull any more current than with the 80A fuse. Either the fuse blows or it doesn't, basically. You can't use lower value fuses to create alower load on the alternator. That would require smaller or more efficient amps. |
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