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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Dinan Front Strut Camber Plates for E90



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      02-28-2020, 11:14 PM   #1
Soravia
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Dinan Front Strut Camber Plates for E90

Do I need alignment after it?
How much does it raise the car?
How do I install it? I can't imagine just by pic on Amazon

Thanks
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      02-28-2020, 11:42 PM   #2
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Yes you need alignment.

It raises car SLIGHTLY due to sandwiching between the top rubber mount and the chassis.

You will need to modify the mount to add the Dinan mount (removing a pin? I can't remember when I did it); it offsets the strut to the chassis. Not difficult but not a 'drop in' without some vise grips.
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      02-29-2020, 06:00 AM   #3
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What about the studs? OE top mount studs vs the Dinan plate studs? I cannot imagine how it goes in
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      02-29-2020, 03:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soravia View Post
What about the studs? OE top mount studs vs the Dinan plate studs? I cannot imagine how it goes in
You press out the stock studs and bolt the camber plates onto the strut mount

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6062243

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...php?p=19712995
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      02-29-2020, 03:42 PM   #5
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How many degress you planning to run up front?
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      02-29-2020, 11:37 PM   #6
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-1.5 Camber max on the front is what I'm guessing. The car is not lowered, a bit higher than what you'd see from stock due to higher pressure Bilstein B6/HD on stock springs.

I think current camber is -0.7R -0.2L Not sure why they are off between left and right, both have new bushings and arms. Both have the struts seated in fully.
Does that mean if the suspension goes up on the outside wheel during corner I should see a bit more negative camber?

What would pulling alignment pin do for me? Seeing that it is a required step for Dinan plates.
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      03-01-2020, 01:17 AM   #7
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Compressing the suspension (or lowering the car) will get you a bit more negative camber, up to a point. However that'll be outweighed by body roll during cornering.

With no alignment pins, you'll probably be able to make your camber even L-R
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      03-01-2020, 09:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tambohamilton View Post
Compressing the suspension (or lowering the car) will get you a bit more negative camber, up to a point. However that'll be outweighed by body roll during cornering.

With no alignment pins, you'll probably be able to make your camber even L-R
How much can I expect from pin removal?

Do I have to slot the factory panels like this guy did?


Last edited by Soravia; 03-01-2020 at 09:54 AM..
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      03-01-2020, 12:45 PM   #9
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Maybe 0.5deg. No, you don't need to slot the holes unless you want to achieve what you're already doing, but without the camber plates.
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      03-01-2020, 10:05 PM   #10
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I'm worried about toe going off so I'll put it off until later. I'll get spindles replaced in rear another time, that's when I'll do it, and get alignment all together
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      03-01-2020, 10:11 PM   #11
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I have -0.9deg after removing my alignment pins. Sport suspension, Bilstein B4 and stock wishbones
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      03-02-2020, 08:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freedomfries View Post
I have -0.9deg after removing my alignment pins. Sport suspension, Bilstein B4 and stock wishbones
What did you have before?

I see that my OE tower is slotted and the studs are halfway in the middle on both sides.
Didn't remove the last nut to prevent movement, not that it's likely with the car sitting level.

What kind of pin do I have? It has hex in it. It's a Lemforder xDrive mount. Do I just wiggle it out with locking pliers?
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Last edited by Soravia; 03-02-2020 at 07:26 PM..
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      03-03-2020, 12:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soravia View Post
What did you have before?

I see that my OE tower is slotted and the studs are halfway in the middle on both sides.
Didn't remove the last nut to prevent movement, not that it's likely with the car sitting level.
I had already removed the pins and pushed my struts all the way inwards prior to my alignment. The "before" camber was also -0.9deg

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soravia View Post
What kind of pin do I have? It has hex in it. It's a Lemforder xDrive mount. Do I just wiggle it out with locking pliers?
My pins were threaded but I couldn't unscrew them. I ended up doing exactly what you described
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      03-03-2020, 01:20 AM   #14
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If you're very careful/lucky the threaded pins will unscrew. If you round out the hex, try unscrewing with pliers.
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      03-03-2020, 01:26 AM   #15
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breakes

do you guys know if brake fluid stains paint
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      03-03-2020, 02:14 AM   #16
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Stains? Maybe. Softens/strips? Yes. Clean it off ASAP!
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      03-03-2020, 10:45 AM   #17
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Any time brake fluid comes out, spray with brake cleaner. Use liberally, but no screaming at sky.

Clear coat protects from brake cleaner but only to certain amount, and not without 72+ hrs curing or so.
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      03-04-2020, 12:18 PM   #18
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I personally think complete realignment after dinan’s fixer camber plates is overkill. It really shouldn’t affect toe at all.

I’ve done lots of camber adjustments on fully adjustable camber plates in the past. Never got an alignment and always had reasonable wear.

Anyway, will find out soon enough as I’m putting them on shortly. Will let you know or hit me up ina few weeks
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      03-04-2020, 05:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
I personally think complete realignment after dinan’s fixer camber plates is overkill. It really shouldn’t affect toe at all.
It will...some. My guess is the toe will change about half as much as the camber. Add negative camber and you'll get a bit of toe out.
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      03-04-2020, 10:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tambohamilton View Post
It will...some. My guess is the toe will change about half as much as the camber. Add negative camber and you'll get a bit of toe out.
Interesting, thanks for the heads up. Based on the geometry of how the two relate, which makes sense. Anyway, here we go!
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      03-05-2020, 05:30 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
I’ve done lots of camber adjustments on fully adjustable camber plates in the past. Never got an alignment and always had reasonable wear.
lol so you were just guessing? Awesome.

OP a lot of your questions can be answered by actually visiting the Dinan product page for these ...
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      03-06-2020, 12:22 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
lol so you were just guessing? Awesome.

OP a lot of your questions can be answered by actually visiting the Dinan product page for these ...
Sorry, what I meant was that once the car was set up and aligned at 'street use' settings I would change the camber without an alignment for track work. I was swapping camber every weekend/week as it was a dual-purpose car and since an alignment twice in a weekend would be a nightmare...

Was able to get extremely consistent wear from -1.5 to -3.5 while auto crossing, tracking and street driving through 3-4 sets of tires. No odd left to right wear nor cupping and managed tire pressure to get outer tread block wear in check when needed.

Even did some extended highway trips (1200+ miles) and no issues. That's why I tend to think that the .5 or .7 degree decrease in camber afforded by the Dinan plates seems pretty safe without an alignment. Touching just about any bolt in the suspension seems to come with the asterisk = align. If you mark eccentric bolts positions and pay attention I find it's not often needed, but what do I know? My goal was never 40k miles per tire set, so there's that. I was getting similar wear to other dual duty cars and it handled great.

Last edited by tlow98; 03-06-2020 at 12:31 AM..
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