[bmw325i]

I'd recommend that 1200 watt audioque amp I linked to. At 1.33 ohms it will do 900 watts. Your electrical system is sufficient I have over 2500 watts rms with no problems.

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

Yes it is. You can use an amp at a lower impedance than it's rated as long as you know what your doing

no matter how much you think you know what you're doing
Running any amp at a lower resistance than it was designed for is asking for trouble, it also voids your warranty.
A transistor that is rated at 25 amps, that is suddenly expected to put out 34 amps is a recipe for disaster

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by adriang

if i turn off base boost somehow..(possibly using a paperclip) would that under power the subs?

or should i get a new amp?

why would that under power the subs?
Try to turn it off first and see

When you have bass boost at +6db you're asking the amp to put out 4 times it's rated power at the bass boost frequency
that will also lead the amp to clip the audio signal, which is the best way to blow a speaker
And it also causes the amp to draw a lot more amps, to try to generate the power you're asking of it
That's the reason you're blowing fuses
You're trying to draw more than 30amps from the fuse, so it blows

[bmw325i]

Originally Posted by kmarei

no matter how much you think you know what you're doing
Running any amp at a lower resistance than it was designed for is asking for trouble, it also voids your warranty.
A transistor that is rated at 25 amps, that is suddenly expected to put out 34 amps is a recipe for disaster

Plenty of people do it. As long as the amp is good quality it's not clipping or overheating. Personally id rather just get an amp that can handle it, just saying it could be done.

[adriang]

Originally Posted by kmarei

why would that under power the subs?
Try to turn it off first and see

When you have bass boost at +6db you're asking the amp to put out 4 times it's rated power at the bass boost frequency
that will also lead the amp to clip the audio signal, which is the best way to blow a speaker
And it also causes the amp to draw a lot more amps, to try to generate the power you're asking of it
That's the reason you're blowing fuses
You're trying to draw more than 30amps from the fuse, so it blows

turned bass boost to 0. Put gain to "normal" (whatever that means) and LPF midway.
Seems like the amplifier isnt getting as hot after running it for 10 minutes and bass set 2/3 of the way on the car stereo(like always)

but now I don't get as much bass in the car

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by adriang

turned bass boost to 0. Put gain to "normal" (whatever that means) and LPF midway.
Seems like the amplifier isnt getting as hot after running it for 10 minutes and bass set 2/3 of the way on the car stereo(like always)

but now I don't get as much bass in the car

wlel your amp is putting out less power
your subs can handle 400 watts each
you're giving each one about 120 right now

[adriang]

correct me if i'm wrong,
this amp http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html

will give me 400W RMS to each speaker at 1 ohm?

Im starting to not like the three sub setup too

[bmw325i]

Originally Posted by adriang

correct me if i'm wrong,
this amp http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html

will give me 400W RMS to each speaker at 1 ohm?

Im starting to not like the three sub setup too

At 1 ohm it would give you 400 watts per sub. But at 1.33 ohms it'll be 300 watts per sub. The reason your not getting as much bass as before is because you actually have your gain somewhat set properly, before it was clipping (trying to put out more power than it's capable of). If I were you I would just start over and get a more efficient sub and a better amp. If you want to make what you have work then just get a new amp.

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by adriang

correct me if i'm wrong,
this amp http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html

will give me 400W RMS to each speaker at 1 ohm?

Im starting to not like the three sub setup too

Keep in mind that amp can draw about 120amps
That will blow your factory fuse on top of the battery
That's only 70 amps
Plus your alternator is 140amps
So when your amp draws 120amps from a 140amp alternator
There's not much left for the car

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by adriang

turned bass boost to 0. Put gain to "normal" (whatever that means) and LPF midway.
Seems like the amplifier isnt getting as hot after running it for 10 minutes and bass set 2/3 of the way on the car stereo(like always)

but now I don't get as much bass in the car

So you were initially running bass boost on
And you had the bass set 2/3 of the way
And the gain set high
Damn
Do you hear anything in the car other than bass?

[bmw325i]

The alternator is 180 amps. 900 watts at 85% efficiency at 14.4 volts is just a little over 70 amps. There are many on this site that have 2000 watts rms or more with no problems. I agree that you shouldn't connect to the amp after the fuse in the distribution block.

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

The alternator is 180 amps. 900 watts at 85% efficiency at 14.4 volts is just a little over 70 amps. There are many on this site that have 2000 watts rms or more with no problems. I agree that you shouldn't connect to the amp after the fuse in the distribution block.

I can guarantee you if he has close to 1000watts to subs
And stock sound system
It will sound like shit

[adriang]

Originally Posted by kmarei

So you were initially running bass boost on
And you had the bass set 2/3 of the way
And the gain set high
Damn
Do you hear anything in the car other than bass?

bass boost had three steps
0, 6, 12 it was set at 6

too much surprise there wasn't that much bass in the car, a lot of it is muffled by the seats, so sometimes I drive with the back seats down to get more bass... plus i dont listen to music too excessively loud
like I said one sub (400W RMS) gave me more bass in my TDI

thanks for all your help guys! I am ready to get a new amp soon as I get some disposable cash...

btw, the +'ve wire I have that runs from the amp to the battery has a 60 fuse. its an 8 guage wire

Do you think I should be looking for 4 gauge wires if I buy another amp?
Would I be pushing the 8 guage to its limit if i dont change the wiring?

[bmw325i]

If you get a new amp that's over 600 watts go with 4 gauge. Don't go cheap on a wiring kit either get a good quality one I'd recommend knukonceptz or Rockford Fosgate

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by adriang

bass boost had three steps
0, 6, 12 it was set at 6

too much surprise there wasn't that much bass in the car, a lot of it is muffled by the seats, so sometimes I drive with the back seats down to get more bass... plus i dont listen to music too excessively loud
like I said one sub (400W RMS) gave me more bass in my TDI

thanks for all your help guys! I am ready to get a new amp soon as I get some disposable cash...

btw, the +'ve wire I have that runs from the amp to the battery has a 60 fuse. its an 8 guage wire

Do you think I should be looking for 4 gauge wires if I buy another amp?
Would I be pushing the 8 guage to its limit if i dont change the wiring?

Can you take a picture of your trunk?
Curious to see how the box is made or how its facing
I have 1 10" sub in a sealed box right up against the back seat, facing the back of the car
And it provides more than enough bass with only 400 watts
Keep in mind I have the premium enhanced sound, which has 850watts
So those 400 watts are more than enough for my system
Is your box sealed or ported?

And yes use 4 gauge cable whenever you can
Is your power cable plugged in to the black piece on top of the battery ?

[adriang]

Will do this as soon as I wake up, it's been a really long night..
Sealed box,
And power is connected to the positive battery head (where the red cover opens up)


http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

Check the few pictures there (the profile picture is not me lol, its a fake picture off google)

looks like the ground wire is on the black bar holding the battery down, maybe thats not good since its painted?