[BritishBeemer]

     Featured on BIMMERPOST.com

Hi guys,

I have a 56 plate BMW 320D E90. I few weeks back I was in the outside lane driving along and the car cut out instantly. The lights remained on and I drifted to the hard shoulder.

The car would then only crank and not start. The ecovery company sprayed some "easy start" type aerosol into the intake and it fired then cut out again.

I have so far, changed the EPK module, checked the DME relay and all the DME fuses, removed the fuel pump hoses and there is plenty of pressure, and also changed the cam sensor.

When I turn on the ignition the fuel pump runs constantly and does not cut out?!? Also when plugging on a £3000 Snap-On diagnostic machine it cannot read the engine?!? When I turn on the ignition I also get the cruise control warning light?!? Not had this before...

Very stuck on this one guys! Any suggestions??

Thanks

[icon2015]

Two possibilities,:
1. Your DDE relay(blue) isn't working properly;
2. Your DDE is dead.

The second one more probably.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BritishBeemer

...Hi guys,

I have a 56 plate BMW 320D E90. I few weeks back I was in the outside lane driving along and the car cut out instantly. The lights remained on and I drifted to the hard shoulder. The car would then only crank and not start. The recovery company sprayed some "easy start" type aerosol into the intake and it fired then cut out again.
I have so far, changed the EPK module, checked the DME relay and all the DME fuses, removed the fuel pump hoses and there is plenty of pressure, and also changed the cam sensor.
When I turn on the ignition the fuel pump runs constantly and does not cut out?!? Also when plugging on a £3000 Snap-On diagnostic machine it cannot read the engine?!?...

Welcome to the Forum! I know NOTHING about your 320d or diesel engines or DDE's generally, but can read a TIS circuit diagram if you indicate (1) What Engine you have, and (2) what the build Month/Year is (per door sticker), so we are looking at the CORRECT circuit for YOUR model.

When you say you "checked the DME relay and all DME fuses" can you explain exactly WHAT you tested & HOW? Reason I ask is that if car was running normally until it suddenly cut off at highway speed, it appears to have NO injector function (fired for a second on ether), and Scan Tool cannot read/ connect to DDE; so first suspect is LACK of POWER to DDE.

If you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter), I would make sure battery voltage, measured at the Jumpstart Terminal, is at least 12.0 Volts, and then test for 12V+ or B+ voltage at EACH of the FOUR Fuse Carrier fuse sockets, F01,F02,F03 & F04. Then follow the power supply wiring for YOUR specific model (in TIS) to the DDE Connector, and make SURE the DDE is getting voltage. That needs to be done METHODICALLY with the CORRECT schematic for YOUR vehicle, even if you believe it has already been done, BEFORE throwing any more parts at it.

While DME/DDE Modules CAN fail, it is generally a sign of lack of knowledge or proper testing methods and equipment to immediately jump to condemning the DDE in a situation such as yours.

George

[BritishBeemer]

Hi guys, thanks for the replies!

George, thank you for your in-depth reply, I can confirm the vehicle has an M47N2 engine and the build month/year is 11/2005

I am going to carry out the voltage testing as per your method today and will post my results this afternoon.

"The DDE relay was tested by connecting it to a 12v supply and it "clicked" also was tested with a DMM", the DDE fuses were simpyl removed from the holder and visually inspected"

Thanks again,

[BritishBeemer]

Ok, so:

I checked all the fuse sockets in the DDE box (i.e F01, F02 etc...) and with the ignition on all were receiving 12v. I then proceeded to remove the DDE and found the bottom edge to be wet and covered in white mould. How do I go about changing the DDE?!?

[icon2015]

You won't be able to change all by yourself only the DDE.

The easiest way would be to buy a starting kit ( DDE+CAS+keys+Instrument cluster), and after that copy FA from FRM to CAS, and code to default CAS, DDE, KOMBI, DSC and then initialize the steering angle sensor.

The hard way would be to buy another DDE and have your CAS ISN written in it, then pair DDE with EWS.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BritishBeemer

I checked all the fuse sockets in the DDE box (i.e F01, F02 etc...) and with the ignition on all were receiving 12v. I then proceeded to remove the DDE and found the bottom edge to be wet and covered in white mould. How do I go about changing the DDE?!?

Depending upon where it is wet, and if any connectors attached to the DDE are wet or corroded, I would first take it inside, clean it thoroughly, drain any water that may be inside, and use LOW heat such as from a heat gun or hair dryer, or simply place under an incandescent table lamp in a warm room for a day or two, and then reinstall (after cleaning the E-box and remedying any water ingress) and "try, try again." That's a LOT less hassle than swapping or reprogramming all the stuff previously described, costs a LOT less, and MAY even work if you're lucky.

BTW, clean all the connector pins & sockets with Electronic Contact Cleaner, and make sure the E-Box is clean & leak-free, WHATEVER you ulimately install.

George

[BritishBeemer]

Hi guys, again thanks for the replies.

I have removed the DDE allowed it to dry out & also cleaned all the contacts but no such luck.

I am going to purchase a second hand DDE from ebay etc...then have my codes written on to it....

My question is who can code a DDE on here?

Thanks

[jimbob22]

Hey lads similar problem crank no start would start with spray but got a new engine and just doesn’t seem to be building rail pressure hpfp is working well any suggestions