[328iDriver]

- 2009 328i (e90)
- sports/premium pkg
- 40K milles

Please can anyone help me pinpoint this issue?

Video link:
https://streamable.com/s9fsad


I went to start the car on the last leg of my errands and it started revving by itself between 1k and 1.5k RPM, I was two blocks away from home so I eventually put it in drive and went. Switching between D and N at the stops.

I got home, turned it off and tried to started again but it just cranked.

Also noticed the driver's window wasn't working and some light must've burnt in the middle of the dashboard, i looked like a cloudy yellow spot.

The next day I scanned with a Foxwell NT510 and got the errors shown in the pics, I've searched online but have not been able to find anything that is EXACTLY these errors.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by 328iDriver

- 2009 328i (e90)... I got home, turned it off and tried to started again but it just cranked... I scanned with a Foxwell NT510 and got the errors shown in the pics...

Please list all fault codes you find in the DME Module. The light reflection on Screen in photos prevents reading of some. The most significant fault codes which CAN be read/ devined:

2ACB | DME: DME master relay, activation | msv80 | Engine electronics
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...QANQAxADAANAA=

2ACC | DME: DME master relay, shift delay | msv80 | Engine electronics
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...QANQAzADAANAA=

Those two codes indicate the DME is NOT being powered by K6300 DME Main Relay, and explains the "Crank, NO Start" issue. It also likely explains some of the OTHER codes related to Cam Sensors, etc., as those are powered by KL87 when DME Main Relay is activated.

I will attach ISTA ScreenPrints of the K6300 circuit to NEXT Post so you can see what to test & HOW. Other Codes which CAN be read/ guessed:

2A9E DME: Camshaft sensor, inlet, synchronization MSV80 Engine electronics
2A9F DME: Camshaft sensor, exhaust, synchronization MSV80 Engine electronics
2A9B DME: Crankshaft - exhaust camshaft, synchronization msv80 Engine electronics
2AA3 DME: Camshaft sensor, exhaust, gap loss MSV80 Engine electronics
2DEB DME: Power management, vehicle electrical system msv80 Engine electronics
2D09 DME: THROTTLE MSV80 Engine electronics
2CEF DME: Throttle-valve actuator, activation MSV80 Engine electronics
2AA3 DME: Camshaft sensor, exhaust, gap loss msv80 Engine electronics

Please check to make sure your Serpentine Belt is intact, as one possible cause of the issues you describe is belt breaking and taking out wiring on front of engine, such as Cam Sensor wiring.

First Step is to get K6300 DME Main Relay to Activate. Check Fuse F37 on the JB Fuse Panel (Below Glovebox) to see it is intact. If that fuse blows when Ignition turned on (START button pressed WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch), then you have a short in the circuit that needs identification & repair.

Use a cheap ($10 Amazon, $7 HFT) DMM (Digital Multimeter) to determine if you have battery voltage (12V+), in reference to chassis ground, at either socket of fuse F37 with fuse REMOVED, and Ignition ON. If NOT, then there is a wiring/ connector issue with the K6300 activation circuit, or K6300 itself (NOT likely).

Check those 3 things (Belt, F37 & Voltage at F37 sockets) and report your findings. We can then suggest "Next Steps". Fuse F37 Location & circuit also shown in NEXT Post.
George

[gbalthrop]

ISTA ScreenPrints related to prior post:
K6300 DME Supply circuit;
F37 Circuit
F37 Location.
George

[328iDriver]

Thanks for your detailed response, and for taking the time! It's given me a more logical path to follow than what I've had so far.
I will be with the car on Tuesday and will check the belt, fuse and fuse socket voltage and report back.

[328iDriver]

So, after a week I have to say the issue was the fuse. Thank you gbalthrop!

Prior to this post, the fuses in the glovebox had pass the continuity check, it wasn't until gbalthrop pointed me in the direction of electrical issues and I went to check the fuse socket. The fuse socket was OK but having the fuse on my hands I tried a continuity test but this time using the blades instead of the end caps and Bingo!

The blades had a very light layer of rust, not the brown kind but a silver color which made it hard to identify and making them feel a bit rough, and there was no continuity... after a bit of sanding the blades, booom, continuity works again.

As you can probably tell by the millage, this car is not driven much. I started a thorough check of thing in the car and discover many of them weren't working like the USB port next to the lighter, a rear window, a rear light, heating the passanger seat, etc... After changing most of the fuses all these things are now FIXED!

I guess the main takeaway for newbies like me would be to thoroughly check your fuses, just because a fuse is not blown doesn't mean is working properly.

I believe there were some side effects to this whole fiasco I still have to deal with but I will post on another thread for searchability purposes.