[2PInZ]

Hello everyone,

I thought I'd post a summary on my recent experience dealing with several of my car's performance issues, just as a reference to those who may have similar issues now or in the future. I own a 2007 328xi that recently hit 103,000 miles. The symptoms I had been experiencing included:

- Car vibrating while idling
- Idle rpm jumps when A/C is on
- Transmission jerk when going from 1st gear to 2nd gear
- 'Performance lag' (if you will) when for example making a turn and then hitting the gas 3/4 of the turn...car wouldn't respond at all the way it should and would just sort of hang.
- Overall decreased response when hitting the gas pedal.

My car was already telling me for awhile that my spark plugs needed to be changed, and from reading on this forum - I figured most of those issues were because of the plugs. Because of the idle rpm jumps when the A/C was on (and the fact that my car had just recently hit 100k miles), I wanted to try several other things before changing the plugs to see how much they helped.

My video description of the idle rpm jumps with the A/C on is here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndBC...ature=youtu.be

These are the 4 things I did, in order. The VANOS cleaning and switching is where I feel the A/C issue went away:

1. Transmission Fluid Drain/Refill: After reading several threads on this forum, I went ahead and did a drain/refill at a local shop. Although BMW says the transmission fluid is lifetime, 'lifetime' apparently means 100k miles. The fluid I used was Super Tech DEXRON VI Automatic Transmission Fluid, 1 qt. I bought 10 quarts, ended up using 7 and returning the other 3. Each bottle (quart) was about $4.50. If you have a 335, your car uses ZF fluid - not Dexron VI. On the first visit, they drained the old fluid (which was thick black), refilled with new fluid, let it run for maybe 5 minutes while changing gears, and drained and refilled again. The mechanic advised me to come back after a few days of running it to do another two drain and refills, which I did after 2 days. In total over the 2 visits, I had 4 drain/refills done. I immediately felt a difference in transmission shifts, but the jerking from 1st to 2nd, as well as all of the other issues, were still present. The total cost ended up being 7($4.50 for the fluid) + $115 for the two visits = $146.50 roughly.

Note: It is recommended to change the pan and gasket which holds the fluid and a filter when changing the transmission fluid. It has been noted in posts #9/#10 of this thread that you can find these components pretty cheap. Personally, I've seen the DIYs of changing those on Youtube, and it just wasn't something I trusted the mechanic that changed my fluid with. After the drain and refills though, I still felt a big improvement - and I plan on changing the pan and everything the next time I change the fluid. Thanks to GoRomeo and GB-335xiCoupe for pointing this out.

2. VANOS Cleaned/Switched: Next, I followed this DIY video to clean and switch the VANOS solenoids. To clean it, I used CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner ($6.50 from Advance Auto) and a can of compressed air ($3 from Staples). If you aren't very proficient in working with cars (like me), I would say that this procedure is pretty easy to do. In the DIY tutorial, the instructor removes a lot of different things from the front in order to access the VANOS solenoids, but the only thing I removed was the plastic in the front that feeds the air into the intake. After that, I was able to reach my hands down and do everything. I would also note that if you are a beginner, because of the angle, it may act a bit stubborn when you are pushing down on the clip to release the connection but be patient and don't be afraid to apply a little extra force in the right direction. Because mine had never been touched, they were a bit firm and took a little extra push to get them to budge. Another note would be to make sure you pull out the O-ring when you pull out the solenoid. They're a pain to replace.

To clean them, I just sprayed them down with the CRC MAF Cleaner several times, and then with the compressed air. Because it is flammable, make sure you let them dry before putting them back! Or just don't turn on your car for awhile!

When putting the solenoids back on, I wasn't able to push them in all the way no matter how hard I tried. If you have a similar problem, just get them in as far as you can and then use the nut to tighten the whole solenoid the rest of the way. Luckily, it is able to catch onto the first thread and you can just tighten it in. Total cost: $6.50 + $3.00 = $9.50.

3. MAF Cleaned: To clean the MAF, I used this DIY. Very simple to do, but when I took mine out, it already looked pretty clean. Like the DIY says, make sure you don't touch any of the components. If you are a beginner, I'd advise you to use some latex gloves just in case. Total cost was just the cost of the CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner bottle which I had bought for the VANOS.

4. Spark Plugs Changed: Finally, I had the plugs changed. I bought BMW 6 pcs. Spark Plug Set - BOSCH - 0242236510 / FR7NPP332 for a total of $58. Because it was engine work, I didn't want to do this on my own for the first time. The whole 'special socket' thing I found kind of confusing, and just didn't want to potentially screw something up. If you're feeling confident though, there are a lot of great DIYs on changing the spark plugs, both here on e90post as well as on Youtube. So - I called all the mechanics around me to see who had worked on BMWs before and found a really nice indie shop which turned out to be a phenomenal experience. I had read and watched the DIY several times, and he didn't mind me watching him do it either. Everything was done to spec for a total of $115. I took pictures of my old plugs as well...if anyone wants to see them, I'll gladly upload them.

~~~~~~~

After the spark plugs were changed, the rough idle went away, the jerking from 1st to 2nd went away, the hang went away, and the response and just the really nice engine noise when accelerating all came back. Driving home from the shop felt so nice!! Like I said, the A/C idle jumps went away after the VANOS were cleaned - but then again from just listening to and feeling my car, I do think even THAT was linked to the spark plugs somehow.

I apologize if some of you found this to be a bit lengthy, but I thought I'd be a bit more thorough for those who are a bit new to this (like I was). I'm in Scranton, PA and the mechanic I used was EuroTech on Rt. 6 in Clarks Summit. Highly recommend him if you are in the area. If I had done all of this at the dealer, I would be broke right now! I encourage you guys to read up and try them yourself. Let me know if you have any questions or even suggestions. Thanks.

[mythek]

thanks for taking your time to share your experience and how to fix these problems. we need more members like you!

i'm glad that you got your baby back on the street

[Built My Way]

Thanks for this. Well done!

[smithf80]

So nice to see someone making a post like this, especially a new member! Where do you live that you were able to do the tranny fluid change for only 150?!


EDIT: Thats at the bottom of the post.

I want to do tranny fluid but I'm so worried about finding a mechanic who can do it the right way.

[2PInZ]

Originally Posted by smithe90

So nice to see someone making a post like this, especially a new member! Where do you live that you were able to do the tranny fluid change for only 150?!


EDIT: Thats at the bottom of the post.

I want to do tranny fluid but I'm so worried about finding a mechanic who can do it the right way.

Thanks! I actually bought the fluid on my own, and the total labor ended up being pretty cheap. Im a student and with the loans I have to pay back, I have no shame in pulling the poor student card and trying to get a lower price on the labor. I got it done in Virginia at a Sunoco...after I talked to him several times about what I wanted to do and how he would do it. He himself told me to go buy the fluid on my own...if he provided the fluid it would have been $22 a quart! To be honest, if you can read up on the DIY and know exactly what needs to be done...then just shop around and talk to different shops and see what they say.

Whatever I get done at the shop, I read up on and make sure I can watch them do it...just so I can ask questions or know whats going on if something comes up in the future. For example, if you get your plugs changed but dont know if he torqued them to spec or just guessed...and you drive home with a semi-rough ride, you dont want to be guessing at that point. Its better to know what was done and how exactly it was done.

Another thing I would recommend to whoever gets their plugs changed is to read the DIY and just ask the mechanic if you can watch and learn from them as they're doing it. The guy I took it to added electrical grease to all of my connectors and really spent a few extra minutes making sure each connection was on properly (which when you think about it is something so simple but can potentially cause a misfire if done improperly).

I drove my car almost 50 miles today to places I didnt need to go just because the car felt so good. Take care of them plugs! Let me know if you have any questions.

[smithf80]

Originally Posted by 2PInZ

Thanks! I actually bought the fluid on my own, and the total labor ended up being pretty cheap. Im a student and with the loans I have to pay back, I have no shame in pulling the poor student card and trying to get a lower price on the labor. I got it done in Virginia at a Sunoco...after I talked to him several times about what I wanted to do and how he would do it. He himself told me to go buy the fluid on my own...if he provided the fluid it would have been $22 a quart! To be honest, if you can read up on the DIY and know exactly what needs to be done...then just shop around and talk to different shops and see what they say.

Whatever I get done at the shop, I read up on and make sure I can watch them do it...just so I can ask questions or know whats going on if something comes up in the future. For example, if you get your plugs changed but dont know if he torqued them to spec or just guessed...and you drive home with a semi-rough ride, you dont want to be guessing at that point. Its better to know what was done and how exactly it was done.

Another thing I would recommend to whoever gets their plugs changed is to read the DIY and just ask the mechanic if you can watch and learn from them as they're doing it. The guy I took it to added electrical grease to all of my connectors and really spent a few extra minutes making sure each connection was on properly (which when you think about it is something so simple but can potentially cause a misfire if done improperly).

I drove my car almost 50 miles today to places I didnt need to go just because the car felt so good. Take care of them plugs! Let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you for the detailed reply. I just hate telling mechanics how to do their job which is probably my issue haha. My other issue is I really don't trust my car with anyone but me.

At this point I've done plugs, coils, engine air filter, charcoal filter delete, and I cleaned one of the two vanos solenoids (didnt need to be done, they looked clean, and I was having trouble getting the lower one out)

My car has been running smooth and well.

[GB-335xiCoupe]

Originally Posted by 2PInZ

1. Transmission Fluid Drain/Refill: After reading several threads on this forum, I went ahead and did a drain/refill at a local shop. Although BMW says the transmission fluid is lifetime, 'lifetime' apparently means 100k miles. The fluid I used was Super Tech DEXRON VI Automatic Transmission Fluid, 1 qt. I bought 10 quarts, ended up using 7 and returning the other 3. Each bottle (quart) was about $4.50. On the first visit, they drained the old fluid (which was thick black), refilled with new fluid, let it run for maybe 5 minutes while changing gears, and drained and refilled again. The mechanic advised me to come back after a few days of running it to do another two drain and refills, which I did after 2 days. In total over the 2 visits, I had 4 drain/refills done. I immediately felt a difference in transmission shifts, but the jerking from 1st to 2nd, as well as all of the other issues, were still present. The total cost ended up being 7($4.50 for the fluid) + $115 for the two visits = $146.50 roughly.

Where did you get the ATF so cheap? I'm leery of DIYing this because I'm not 100% sure which transmission I have in my 335xi. If I get the oem stuff, i think it was something like $17/qt. Using the correct fluid/replacement fluid is critical, or so I've read.

[Edit: Also, if I recall, I would need a lot more than 7 qts]

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by GB-335xiCoupe

Where did you get the ATF so cheap? I'm leery of DIYing this because I'm not 100% sure which transmission I have in my 335xi. If I get the oem stuff, i think it was something like $17/qt. Using the correct fluid/replacement fluid is critical, or so I've read.

[Edit: Also, if I recall, I would need a lot more than 7 qts]

OP thanks for sharing ur story.

GB335xiCoupe: You have a different tranny which is a ZF, thats why your fluid is more expensive. Cheers!

[GB-335xiCoupe]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

OP thanks for sharing ur story.

GB335xiCoupe: You have a different tranny which is a ZF, thats why your fluid is more expensive. Cheers!

Yeah, I figured, it's almost cost-prohibitive, because you also should replace the transmission pan (which has an integral filter and magnets) for $139 at ECS Automatic Transmission Oil Pan With Transmission Filter for BMW E92 335xi N55 3.0L . or about $95 on Amazon for who knows what.
I don't think bavauto.com sells the pans.

[Edit: Aww snap! - Found here as a kit Automatic Transmission Service Kit - Level 2, 7qts and the pan for $224.25 SWEET!]

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by GB-335xiCoupe

Yeah, I figured, it's almost cost-prohibitive, because you also should replace the transmission pan (which has an integral filter and magnets) for $139 at ECS Automatic Transmission Oil Pan With Transmission Filter for BMW E92 335xi N55 3.0L . or about $95 on Amazon for who knows what.
I don't think bavauto.com sells the pans.

[Edit: Aww snap! - Found here as a kit Automatic Transmission Service Kit - Level 2, 7qts and the pan for $224.25 SWEET!]

I was lucky, I found my Transmission pan with gasket and everything for $58.00 new free shipping on ebay. I will use the Gastrol Multi Vehicle fluid for $6.99 a quart which I ve heard from users here that it meets OE standards. In comaparison to ZF fluid which is about 20.00 per quart. I should get the sleeve too.

[2PInZ]

Thanks for the notes GoRomeo and GB-335xiCoupe - I added your bits of info to my original post.

[GoRomeo]

You are welcome.

[Jroc]

My girlfriend's car was experiencing something similar and from my research it indicates its most likely the spark plugs/coil packs. Glad you sorted that out and kind of verified.

[Dark_Knight_335]

I have the idling issue with the AC on lately, and I have only 23500 on the clock, so I'm clueless- and a bit concerned. DEFINITELY nowhere near the time for a trans fluid change, spark plug change...bla bla bla....

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335

I have the idling issue with the AC on lately, and I have only 23500 on the clock, so I'm clueless- and a bit concerned. DEFINITELY nowhere near the time for a trans fluid change, spark plug change...bla bla bla....

You are totally different animal... be ready to clean your valves with a good walnut shell blasting. You are about the enter into the dark side....

[Dark_Knight_335]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

You are totally different animal... be ready to clean your valves with a good walnut shell blasting. You are about the enter into the dark side....

Haha, yes it would seem so. Or maybe my car is running rich

[dassub]

I love having the transmission fluid changed when I reach a certain mileage. At 100,000km (60k miles?) I had mine changed. It takes Redline D4 (if though it's an ATF fluid in a MT). Shifts like butter again!

[Andrewah05]

Awesome post thanks for this!

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by 2PInZ

Hello everyone,

I thought I'd post a summary on my recent experience dealing with several of my car's performance issues, just as a reference to those who may have similar issues now or in the future. I own a 2007 328xi that recently hit 103,000 miles. The symptoms I had been experiencing included:

- Car vibrating while idling
- Idle rpm jumps when A/C is on
- Transmission jerk when going from 1st gear to 2nd gear
- 'Performance lag' (if you will) when for example making a turn and then hitting the gas 3/4 of the turn...car wouldn't respond at all the way it should and would just sort of hang.
- Overall decreased response when hitting the gas pedal.

My car was already telling me for awhile that my spark plugs needed to be changed, and from reading on this forum - I figured most of those issues were because of the plugs. Because of the idle rpm jumps when the A/C was on (and the fact that my car had just recently hit 100k miles), I wanted to try several other things before changing the plugs to see how much they helped.

My video description of the idle rpm jumps with the A/C on is here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndBC...ature=youtu.be

These are the 4 things I did, in order. The VANOS cleaning and switching is where I feel the A/C issue went away:

1. Transmission Fluid Drain/Refill: After reading several threads on this forum, I went ahead and did a drain/refill at a local shop. Although BMW says the transmission fluid is lifetime, 'lifetime' apparently means 100k miles. The fluid I used was Super Tech DEXRON VI Automatic Transmission Fluid, 1 qt. I bought 10 quarts, ended up using 7 and returning the other 3. Each bottle (quart) was about $4.50. If you have a 335, your car uses ZF fluid - not Dexron VI. On the first visit, they drained the old fluid (which was thick black), refilled with new fluid, let it run for maybe 5 minutes while changing gears, and drained and refilled again. The mechanic advised me to come back after a few days of running it to do another two drain and refills, which I did after 2 days. In total over the 2 visits, I had 4 drain/refills done. I immediately felt a difference in transmission shifts, but the jerking from 1st to 2nd, as well as all of the other issues, were still present. The total cost ended up being 7($4.50 for the fluid) + $115 for the two visits = $146.50 roughly.

Note: It is recommended to change the pan and gasket which holds the fluid and a filter when changing the transmission fluid. It has been noted in posts #9/#10 of this thread that you can find these components pretty cheap. Personally, I've seen the DIYs of changing those on Youtube, and it just wasn't something I trusted the mechanic that changed my fluid with. After the drain and refills though, I still felt a big improvement - and I plan on changing the pan and everything the next time I change the fluid. Thanks to GoRomeo and GB-335xiCoupe for pointing this out.

2. VANOS Cleaned/Switched: Next, I followed this DIY video to clean and switch the VANOS solenoids. To clean it, I used CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner ($6.50 from Advance Auto) and a can of compressed air ($3 from Staples). If you aren't very proficient in working with cars (like me), I would say that this procedure is pretty easy to do. In the DIY tutorial, the instructor removes a lot of different things from the front in order to access the VANOS solenoids, but the only thing I removed was the plastic in the front that feeds the air into the intake. After that, I was able to reach my hands down and do everything. I would also note that if you are a beginner, because of the angle, it may act a bit stubborn when you are pushing down on the clip to release the connection but be patient and don't be afraid to apply a little extra force in the right direction. Because mine had never been touched, they were a bit firm and took a little extra push to get them to budge. Another note would be to make sure you pull out the O-ring when you pull out the solenoid. They're a pain to replace.

To clean them, I just sprayed them down with the CRC MAF Cleaner several times, and then with the compressed air. Because it is flammable, make sure you let them dry before putting them back! Or just don't turn on your car for awhile!

When putting the solenoids back on, I wasn't able to push them in all the way no matter how hard I tried. If you have a similar problem, just get them in as far as you can and then use the nut to tighten the whole solenoid the rest of the way. Luckily, it is able to catch onto the first thread and you can just tighten it in. Total cost: $6.50 + $3.00 = $9.50.

3. MAF Cleaned: To clean the MAF, I used this DIY. Very simple to do, but when I took mine out, it already looked pretty clean. Like the DIY says, make sure you don't touch any of the components. If you are a beginner, I'd advise you to use some latex gloves just in case. Total cost was just the cost of the CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner bottle which I had bought for the VANOS.

4. Spark Plugs Changed: Finally, I had the plugs changed. I bought BMW 6 pcs. Spark Plug Set - BOSCH - 0242236510 / FR7NPP332 for a total of $58. Because it was engine work, I didn't want to do this on my own for the first time. The whole 'special socket' thing I found kind of confusing, and just didn't want to potentially screw something up. If you're feeling confident though, there are a lot of great DIYs on changing the spark plugs, both here on e90post as well as on Youtube. So - I called all the mechanics around me to see who had worked on BMWs before and found a really nice indie shop which turned out to be a phenomenal experience. I had read and watched the DIY several times, and he didn't mind me watching him do it either. Everything was done to spec for a total of $115. I took pictures of my old plugs as well...if anyone wants to see them, I'll gladly upload them.

~~~~~~~

After the spark plugs were changed, the rough idle went away, the jerking from 1st to 2nd went away, the hang went away, and the response and just the really nice engine noise when accelerating all came back. Driving home from the shop felt so nice!! Like I said, the A/C idle jumps went away after the VANOS were cleaned - but then again from just listening to and feeling my car, I do think even THAT was linked to the spark plugs somehow.

I apologize if some of you found this to be a bit lengthy, but I thought I'd be a bit more thorough for those who are a bit new to this (like I was). I'm in Scranton, PA and the mechanic I used was EuroTech on Rt. 6 in Clarks Summit. Highly recommend him if you are in the area. If I had done all of this at the dealer, I would be broke right now! I encourage you guys to read up and try them yourself. Let me know if you have any questions or even suggestions. Thanks.

You are welcome 2PInZ, Good tips for someone who has not done all this. I did all these 2 yrs ago along with "charcoal delete" except for the transmission fluid change, I am actually planning to do so along with pan in the next few days. Great post

[2PInZ]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

I am actually planning to do so along with pan in the next few days.

Good luck - I hope it improves your driving experience. Yesterday I drove my car on a 4 hour trip from Scranton, PA down to northern VA. Thought I'd share that on the highway for the 3 hours that I monitored before hitting traffic, I was getting 30.1 mpg at an average speed of 74.7 mph. I was going kinda fast, but all the previous times I've done that same trip - I've only been about to get around 31mpg if I go at an average speed of 55-62 mph. So, definitely an improvement!

From recommendations on the forum, I added the Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner before I started the trip, and I'll add another on my way back up. Then I'll probably add LiquiMoly and get my yearly oil change done at the dealership.

After all this, PLUS having to replace my valve cover gasket this weekend, I better not have any more damn issues with my car for awhile!!

[GB-335xiCoupe]

For the ATF part, watch this video.

and

These guys really know their stuff.